Danielson crab traps

Rimshot · 11-30-2003, 01:52 PM

I bought 2 new danielson crab traps and I have a few questions. I know several of you guys use them so I thought I'd ask here. First, on the top there are 2 round holes, one is welded in place the other is tied in place with string. Why? Second, I could use some tips for setting them up. I have floats, rope, and some rebar(to make them heavier) for each. Mainly I'm wondering things like what is the best way to attach the rope, where to put the rebar, and any tricks to make them work better. I'm sure some of you guys have found a few things out the hard way when it comes to setting these up. I'd like to hear your experiences. Pics would be really cool too. Thanks a bunch.

River Ranger · 11-30-2003, 02:07 PM

I have noticed that the doors don't fall back down on some of them,the crab goes in and the door stays open.
R.R.

Red-Rooster · 11-30-2003, 02:15 PM

I use pencil lead to wrap around the doors so that they close better. Also I use zip ties or alum. wire around all of the side except the side that you open to clean them out. That way the trap is a little more solid (down side is that you can't fold them flat) but in the long run you will get more use out of it by picking only one side as an access - and tie up the other. For the bait I zip tie a bait cage in the center. Good Luck
RR

KChookem · 11-30-2003, 02:34 PM

Sorry, no photo's but here is how I do mine...

1. On 3 of the 4 sides, I pinch over the hooks so the fold-down side can not inadvertently open. The "good" door, I mark with bright tape so I can find it quickly when I dump the crab on the floor. However, if you intend to fold-down your traps at the end of the day, you probably will not do this.

2. I use a elastic band/bungee to keep the "good" door closed.

3. I use a four-point harness stretched across the top of the trap, with a loop in the center, (to which I attach my float rope). The rope I use is the yellow 3/8 inch poly rope, and three 50-ft bags will do you for two traps.

4. For my float, I now use the regualr floats, but a bleach bottle, etc., will also work - just be sure to seal it good.

5. I use a wire bait box in the bottom of my traps and attach it with zip/cable ties.

6. I do not use rebar - just the bait cage on the bottom. Danielson's do not do well in strong tidal current, but if you do, consider a second float 8-10 feet above the first one, and make sure you have enough rope.

FYI - I now use Danielson's almosty exclusively for straight crabbing trips because they are light weight and get a lot of crabs. You will find, however, that saltwater,and frequent use, will take a toll, but if you give them a little attention now and them, they will last a long time.

fishbait · 11-30-2003, 03:20 PM

Rimshot,

good info above. I too have weighted my doors with pencil lead (danielson now sells weighted doors, you will need some spares)and zip tie one side closed, also zip tie my bait boxes to the trap. I have a three point harness with a small float (doughnut size) that is connected to my main rope. Also have extra floats on 20 ft rope for deeper water or stronger flow. I have used these traps for over 20 yrs without rebar or weights, jsut watch out for v strong flow. I havee a diddy box, tupperware, that has zip ties, pliars, extra doors, my gauges and wire for salmon heads, helps keep everything together. Best if you can rinse with fresh water after use. The round opening is for undedrsized crab to be able to get out, the rope/string is for all crabe to be able to get out if the trap is lost, the string will rot, otherwise it just becomes a self baiting killing machine. Do yourself a favor and custome paint your floats to be easily recognizable. Also get a boat hook or just make one old broom handle, wire hook and some floation taped on to handle, helps grab the rope/float. Get a good fid to help you with your riggin. Nice to have 2-3 gauges too. Hope this helps.............. FB

KChookem · 11-30-2003, 03:23 PM

Re Holes at the top -

If you lose a trap, the string/twine at the opening will rot out and let the crabs escape. I've been told this is a requirement in some states/provinces', as is non-floating rope, name on float, etc.

Spoiled Daddy · 12-02-2003, 05:22 AM

I have 3 of the box Danielson traps now and really like them. I tie them off on all 4 corners to help spred the weight around when pulling them. Like others, I don't fold mine down, so I pinch down 3 sides and leave one side for opening and cleaning out the traps. I have put bright red zip ties on that side to mark the door. I have put some old rings of "plumbers lead" in the bottom of mine for weight and use small bait boxes zip tied in the bottom. I use double floats on mine too, but mostly to mark them as mine.

A couple of tricks with the line and floats. I use heavy poly rope with mine. About 10' and again at 15' below the floats I pushed a large piece of pencil lead inside the hollow rope. This helps in keeping the rope sunk better and it will not trail out so far, making it a little easier to get closer to the floats at slack tied. I hate it when I or my co-pilots run over the ropes! Also, I used an old wood burner gun to melt my initials into the foam floats, as well as our phone number. That makes it pretty hard for someone to say they got the wrong crab gear by mistake and permanently marks them as yours.

Just my .02 SD