Flex-Coat problem

10-31-2003, 06:35 PM

I recently re-coated the wraps on one of my rods with Flex-Coat. I thought I got equal portions but after about a month the coating is still kind of tacky. Anyone have a solution?

TH · 10-31-2003, 06:38 PM

really watch the barometric pressure when finishing rods...
is the pressure is dropping flex-coat will not set up!
When this happens... its best to strip the rod down and start again!

Just a little trick from the rod bench..
How's Stewy?

[ 10-31-2003, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: TH ]

10-31-2003, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TH:
really watch the barometric pressure when finishing rods...
is the pressure is dropping flex-coat will not set up!
When this happens... its best to strip the rod down and start again!

Just a little trick from the rod bench..
How's Stewy?

<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Ugh! Stewy's not very good after reading that :depressed: I can't remember what the barometer was doing but I guess that makes sense.
Some of the wraps set up just fine while others didn't

TH · 10-31-2003, 06:52 PM

yup
sounds familar
I know it's tough but I'd strip it down and start again? Just my .02

How ya been?

rob allen · 10-31-2003, 06:58 PM

Stew wipe it down with as mild of a solvent as will take the finish off certainly nothing "hotter" than accetone..

Then when you mix a new batch of flex coat put in just a tiny bit more hardner "B" than finish "A" and mix if for a FULL 2 minutes before reapplying..

10-31-2003, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TH:
yup
sounds familar
I know it's tough but I'd strip it down and start again? Just my .02

How ya been?

<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Trav by stripping down do you mean just the finish or the threads too?
Thanks for the tip Rob I may do just that.

Metal Manipulator · 10-31-2003, 07:10 PM

When working with resins watch the temp also. If it doesn't harden withen the correct time a hot coat as was mentioned above will most likley do the trick. My expoeriance with fixing surfboards.

Fast Action · 10-31-2003, 07:11 PM

Well I will have to say that I have never heard of Flex Coat not setting up when the beromiter is falling

I do know when I built my first rod it was tacky because I did not mix it precisely. Did you use mixing cups to measure both the resin and hardener or just spread it out on foil and guess? I also pre-heat the epoxy in the bottles in hot water prior to mixing it. It poors and mixes better. Just what I was taught. I have coated wraps below the recommended temp and it was just fine. Took longer to dry, but it worked the same. TH is right though. Start over as much of a pain as it is. I had to do the same thing. If you have an alcohol torch very carefully heat the epoxy on the wrap just for a second. It will softer up the epoxy a little more. Just a quick pass will do the trick. Good luck.

Oh yes! Really whip that stuff up as mentioned.

[ 10-31-2003, 08:21 PM: Message edited by: Fast Action ]

TH · 10-31-2003, 07:18 PM

Stew I would strip everythig down, wraps and all, wipe the blank clean and start again.
If you finish over soft flexcoat it could possibly cause you some probelems in the future.

It doesn;t matter how much heat and time you give it, it it doesn't harden up in a day or two then it NEVER will.

Do yourself a favor! Start over

Just my .02 again!

10-31-2003, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TH:
Stew I would strip everythig down, wraps and all, wipe the blank clean and start again.
If you finish over soft flexcoat it could possibly cause you some probelems in the future.

It doesn;t matter how much heat and time you give it, it it doesn't harden up in a day or two then it NEVER will.

Do yourself a favor! Start over

Just my .02 again!

<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Bummer :depressed: Oh well it's just a couple guides. Thanks for the info.

drhall99 · 10-31-2003, 08:46 PM

I've had LOTS of problems with tacky coatings until I realized that it was because I was using the thin coat for the first coat to ensure good penetration under the guide and then I would use the thick coat for the top coat after the first had cured. The two coatings were reacting with each other. Now that I am only using the thin coat the tacky problem is gone.

D.

12-20-2003, 02:24 PM

Someone suggested putting a new coat over the old one. I was careful to get the portion even and did not do it during a falling barometer. SUCCESS

it worked great.
Thanks to whomever suggested doing that

[ 12-20-2003, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: Stew ]

steelymaster · 12-20-2003, 02:36 PM

The reason it didn't harden was an improper mixture amount. It really has to be exactly equal when mixing part A and part B to set up right, otherwise stuff like that will happen. Try to also do your rodwrapping at room temperature, it will help. Hope this Helps.

Twitchs_Tackle · 12-20-2003, 03:53 PM

TH, do you ever notice a slight hazy or wierd sheen to the epoxy when the barometer is falling as well? Sometimes not even over the entire wrap, just small areas. Have seen this a few times but the people did not know what the barometer had ben doing when the epoxy was applied. :whazzup:

Rakkasan · 12-20-2003, 03:53 PM

Key is equal mixture as mentioned. Mixing cups are a dime a dozen. One thing I do is put both bottles of parts A and B into a cup of hot water the thin the epoxy. It is easier to measure in the cups, mixes better, and is easier to work with puting it on the wraps.

I hope putting another coat over a not fully set coating works. I would have stripped it and started over myself as I had to do my first time.

my $.02

Gus Orviston · 12-20-2003, 04:05 PM

TT, I have seen the same sheen, I was thinking it was oil from my hands or something that wasn't fully cleaned. Been watching that pretty close to see if I can figure it out, but it happens seldom

When you mix flex coat, don't shoot for the minimum, the more you mix the less the minor % in difference of the catalyst and hardener will make. eg instead of 2cc per part, do 4cc and you will reduce the chances of making this mistake. I mix in two steps, doing the butt end first, then mix a new batch for the upper end. I waste a bit more flexcoat than I could if I were being frugale, but the finish product is more important to me than reducing cost of building materials. I build rods for fun and personal enjoyment, not $$.

gus

Rakkasan · 12-20-2003, 04:40 PM

Does everyone use the thin or thick flex coat? I use the thick, go from base to tip to give it a chance to pentrate the wrap, hit it with an alcohol torch briefley as I go to make it thin out, then go back and get rid of any excess, or bubbles and hit it again with the torch after pulling the tape making that edge taper out. Depending on the heat in my house I sometimes will mix two batches because it sets up and get's to thick to work with.

Never had a sheen or berometer problem. Are you mixing it in a totaly clean mixing cup? Some of those mixing cups come with a coating on them. I wash mine out with hot water and soap and rinse in really hot water for a minute or so. That way there is absolutely no soap residue in the cup.

I always over mix the amount, however when I am mixing it the amounts are exact.

Bait O' Eggs · 12-20-2003, 05:26 PM

Shane I am glad your rod turned out and I hope it holds up. I have read on several rod building forums that a second coat will remedy the problem but I have never tried it.

I did something different this week on a rod. I added some ultra fine cut glitter to the finish. I have read and heard about it, but have never done it myself. I dont know if I would add more or less glitter next time :whazzup: but I kind of liked it, reminds me of a bass boat :tongue: This rod was with flex coat high build. The pictures dont do the glitter justice.

Gun Rod Bow · 12-20-2003, 05:31 PM

Hey BOE,

Is that a "Betsy" series?

We need to talk. :grin:

Bait O' Eggs · 12-20-2003, 05:59 PM

No its not a "Besty" series, but I am working on Betsy 3 and 4 right now

And a bass boat will not have any glittery shine over B3 and B4 :tongue: :tongue: :tongue: the owner will surely get some ribbing, which is the objective

crabbait · 12-20-2003, 10:52 PM

The hazy sheen can be caused by polutants in the flame used to even the finish. DS has not seen it because he uses a denatured alcohol torch (me too). Using a butane lighter or a Zippo or any other dirty fuel can cause the haziness.

Nice rod, BOE.

greenbuttskunk · 12-21-2003, 08:39 AM

Stew,
this is one time when "global warming" would have come in handy :grin:

SSPey · 12-27-2003, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rob allen:

put in just a tiny bit more hardner "B" than finish "A" and mix if for a FULL 2 minutes before reapplying..

<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Skip Morris recommends just a tiny bit more resin than hardener. I can't seem to keep this straight, so I go 50/50 as best I can.

Recently when wrapping and coating guides I took tacky recoating one step further. First coat was some left over original Duragloss from probably 1998 and it came out with a slight tack. My planned second coat was newer third generation Duragloss, and it covered the tack just fine.