Water in the fuel???

Fish mojo · 02-25-2002, 06:28 PM

Fired up the old 4.3 I/O for the first time since October in the driveway. Ran great for about 20 seconds, then started shakin like a dog trying to pass a peach pit. Tried tweeking the timing, checked the carb-OK, no luck. Checked my fuel gauge- almost E. I did change the cannister water separator before starting. My guess is leaving it layed up with a low tank caused condensation to accumulate. How do you get the water out?What's next? Fuel dryer and a full tank of premium? [img]graemlins/1zhelp.gif[/img]

THE KIWANDA KID · 02-25-2002, 07:34 PM

Mojo, you're on the right track. be sure to return your timing to the point you found it. After you fill the tank and using a bottle of "dry fuel" run the motor for a bit then check your water sep. filter again you can do this by pouring it into a clear quart jar to check for any water left over. Get another filter to take with you as you may need it and it's darn cheap insurance. I know I shouldnt state the obvious but next time top off the tank along with a bottle of stabilizer before putting it away.Best of luck!

:grin:

fish_on · 02-25-2002, 07:35 PM

add a bottle of heat and fill with regular.

Wernergonefishin · 02-25-2002, 09:16 PM

I use heat every spring its very good stuff Always keep a bottle in my Save a fishing trip kit you never know where your going to get a bad tank of gas. Hope this helps see ya all soon.

Pilar · 02-26-2002, 08:32 AM

Fish mojo, yeah, your bad. In the winter especially fill that thing full on the way back from the boat ramp. All that wet air will put water in your gas tank. The more airspace in the tank the worse the effect.

Fuel stabilizer like Sta-bil will also keep the full tank fresh all winter. Just run the boat for 10 minutes after you treat the gas so the stuff gets all in the fuel lines and carb.

If your boat has an aux fuel pump you can fill the tank, let it sit for a day or two and then use the electric pump to pump out the settled water. I would pump into a glass gallon jar and look for water in the bottom. Don't filter this gas since you are trying to get rid of the water. No sense in using up your separator.

This has happened to me a few times now and that will fix it. The water separator will get whatever is left.

FishinMission · 02-26-2002, 02:15 PM

I think I'd dis-connect the fuel line on the tank side of the water seperator, pump gas into a glass container until it's clear of water. The water will make your gas look milky and cloudy. After you've done that, replace the water seperator, put the fuel line back on.

You may have to deal with a bit of water remaining in the fuel lines between the seperator and your carb tho. Your motor may start then die. Keep at it for a bit, until it continues to run...then you should be O.K.

I'd keep an extra water seperator on hand for a spell until you know for sure you got the problem licked. Good luck.

Mark

AngleThis · 02-26-2002, 10:38 PM

When I rebuilt my boat, fuel system cleaning was just one of the projects, and I discovered that there was no way to really empty dry the tank because the pickup did not reach into exactly the right spot at the very bottom of the tank, even when the boat was tilted right; there was always a little water remaining. I had the opportunity (need) to completely remove the tank from the boat (hull rebuild) later on, but have a solution...

Remove the pickup tube from your tank, angle the boat so that the lowest point is under that hole, then insert a vacume tube, or even some absorbant rags, and with a flashlight, suck every bit of liquid out of the tank. Simple but effective; you KNOW the water is gone and don't have to rely on a water separator or possibly harmful chemical agents to keep your engine from farting steam and ruining your next day on the water.

If there happens to be 20 gals of fuel on top of the water, hopefully you have a bad neighbor with a really loud gas guzzling lawn mower, looking for cheap gas :smile: