MP 5.7 Switching to Synthetic

[Redhawk-Driver]

What is a good time to switch to synthetic oil in my MP 5.7? It has about 26 hours on it.

Also, MP says if I use synthetic it should by Mobile 1 15-50 extended wear. Anyone know who carries that grade of oil?

Thanks

[twisted lines]

Never!

[Redhawk-Driver]

Why not...seems everyone likes it, wondering why not you? Please pass along your wisdom. I am not set on synthetic....thoughts?

[foxer]

Anytime really. That grade of mobil one is pretty common at all the auto parts stores/walmart.

[hunt2much]

Originally Posted by twisted lines

Never!

I'll agree with Twisted... MP say not to in their book. and NR said not to run synthietic too. Call them and ask them. Synthetic oil has thinner molocules... And Marine engines are built with looser tolerances... Therefore they don't work well together. At least I'm sure thats what i've been told. I run Valvoline VR1 Race oil. And I'm pretty sure most others do to. Thats about the best conventional oil out there and at almost the same price as synthetic. Pretty sure MP says to run Valvoline VR1.

[Redhawk-Driver]

Where do you get VR1 and what grade do you use? The MP manual I have says to run 30 below 70F and 40 above. Do you use a multivisc. oil? Thanks!!

[justfish]

Originally Posted by hunt2much

I'll agree with Twisted... MP say not to in their book. and NR said not to run synthietic too. Call them and ask them. Synthetic oil has thinner molocules... And Marine engines are built with looser tolerances... Therefore they don't work well together. At least I'm sure thats what i've been told. I run Valvoline VR1 Race oil. And I'm pretty sure most others do to. Thats about the best conventional oil out there and at almost the same price as synthetic. Pretty sure MP says to run Valvoline VR1.

Don't take this wrong,I'm not debating you in the least,but you got me thinking (dangerous with my level of mechanical ability). I would think all 5.7 motors would come from GM built to the same specs and then be marinized (sp) by another company.

[BIGCSS]

Originally Posted by justfish

Don't take this wrong,I'm not debating you in the least,but you got me thinking (dangerous with my level of mechanical ability). I would think all 5.7 motors would come from GM built to the same specs and then be marinized (sp) by another company.

That's correct, but the marine engines come from the Industrial division of GM.

[jfa686]

after gathering info i switched to a dino/synth blend by valvoline. I think a lot of it has to do with the way your gonna run your engine after talking with MP

[MattPark]

I have yet to see a "marine" engine that has different tolerances than the same engine in an automotive application. I know Vortec 350s (5.7s) and fuel injected Ford 351s (5.8s) are exactly the same. Switch over whenever you want. On an old engine with old seals, the chance of a leak *may* increase, but I highly doubt it.

[fishin"G"man]

There are some who do not realize the value of synthetics and like to stay with carbon base oils. Others do know the benefits and use them exclusively. I'm one that uses synthetics exclusively in ALL my cars, trucks and boats and I can show you why. You might ask; why do car and boat motor manufacturers use/go to/suggest synthetics. API says all cars should use a 5-20 blend. Go onto the API web site and read that for yourself and why. Marine and industrial engines have a different service oil.

All that aside, the time to switch to synthetics? Anytime... Many thought it was worth it to go through a break in period before switching to synthetics. That's acceptable too. I've always told folks using synthetics for the first time to change their oil and filter after the first 50 hrs (or 3000 miles as is normal with using carbon base oils). Then stretch out your change to yearly or every two on marine depending on use (7000 miles on vehicles) before you change oil. Note the color of oil when you change it AFTER your first synthetic change -(the second time). Mine looks like a light brown weak maple syrup color and I run my vehicles with 100K plus miles 10,000 before change. With a really good filter you can stretch that out further. I don't suggest more than 7500 until you know what your oil looks like and is doing for you.

Just for kicks... do the same test with your carbon base oil at 3000 miles. What color is your oil at 3000 miles? Pretty dark I'd bet. That's because carbon base oils burn at a lower heat than synthetics (just for starters). Try the syntheytics... I think you'll like it. Cleaner engine, better performance.

Your decision... use carbon base oils and you are protected. Use synthetics and you are protected just as well.

[lucky2]

I am not sure what you mean by "carbon based". All motor oils including synthetics are made from hydrocarbons.

[shawn b]

vr1 oil for my marine power motor ive talked with chris at marine power and he told to keep running the VR1

[Redhawk-Driver]

Where do you get the VR1 oil?

[Redhawk-Driver]

What grade or multi-visc do you run? Oh, and what filters do you run in you MP? Thanks

[Orca]

Originally Posted by fishin"G"man

There are some who do not realize the value of synthetics and like to stay with carbon base oils. Others do know the benefits and use them exclusively. I'm one that uses synthetics exclusively in ALL my cars, trucks and boats and I can show you why. ...

Me too! Rotella T Syn is my choice, great heavy duty oil that still has a reasonable complement of Zinc. I use syn in everything including lawnmowers.

A few years ago, my risers plugged on the boat, and I dumped a bunch of coolant in the bilge from overheating. Didn't even notice till I drained the bilge. Never know for sure, but I am confident that with Dino oil I would have done some engine damage, Rottella T - no problem detected. Boat never uses a drop of oil that I can tell and is now approching 1000 hours. Change oil only once a year, and oil is not black at end of season, it is just into the brown phase.

[Redhawk-Driver]

Thanks ORCA. Appreciate the experiece. Say, when do you do your oil changes...beginning or end of season? Regards,

[Orca]

Originally Posted by Redhawk-Driver

Thanks ORCA. Appreciate the experiece. Say, when do you do your oil changes...beginning or end of season? Regards,

Always change oil at end of season, so that good clean oil is in over the winter.

[hunt2much]

Say and think what you want... but I'm gonna run what the manufacturer recommends!

You can get VR1 at Car Quest.

I wanna say about 80 bucks a case. 6-7 bucks a quart.

I run the Car Quest premium filters and VR1 racing SAE 30 wt.

And I did my oil at 10 hrs, 25 hrs and then every 50 hrs after that. No matter what time of year. But i run my boat year round!

Again thats all what MP in Idaho recommended to me for my 09' !

[foxer]

WOW...thats expensive for a dino oil. If you want a good SAE30, Volvo Penta has a synthetic. I have seen it at Stevens.

[Redhawk-Driver]

Thanks G-Man.

I have been told that synthetic oil is a bit hygroscopic (sp?) so if you don't run your boat in the winter it can collect moisture. Is this true. I like the idea of fresh oil sitting in the sump in the winter time, but I have been changing at beginning of season because of the idea of oil collecting moisture. I would like to here your thoughts?

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by twisted lines

Never!

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by Redhawk-Driver

Thanks G-Man.

I have been told that synthetic oil is a bit hygroscopic (sp?) so if you don't run your boat in the winter it can collect moisture. Is this true. I like the idea of fresh oil sitting in the sump in the winter time, but I have been changing at beginning of season because of the idea of oil collecting moisture. I would like to here your thoughts?

Synthetic's do not collect moisture. Just the oposite.
Synthetic's are a complete molecule, thus not having the need to complete its self. This attribute lends to suspending the moisture for evaporation and suspending dirt for filtration. This means it does not break down like fossil oils and doe's not create sludge and varnish. Synthetics also have a much higher film strength creating a better base to resist friction. All fossil oils use synthetic additives to help prevent all of the problems they have, Such as degradation and lubrication.

If you value your investment that you made in your motor you should use a good synthetic oil.

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by hunt2much

Say and think what you want... but I'm gonna run what the manufacturer recommends!

You can get VR1 at Car Quest.

I wanna say about 80 bucks a case. 6-7 bucks a quart.

I run the Car Quest premium filters and VR1 racing SAE 30 wt.

And I did my oil at 10 hrs, 25 hrs and then every 50 hrs after that. No matter what time of year. But i run my boat year round!

Again thats all what MP in Idaho recommended to me for my 09' !

A manufacture recommends a certain oil because that is the company that sponsors them. Or what they like. They also recommend a certain API (American Petroleum Institute) grade of oil that meets the need of their engines All oils including synthetics are held to certain standards by the API.
VRI is a blend synthetic oil and is a good oil. The next step in better and 21 century technology is an 100 % Syn oil.

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by fishin"G"man

There are some who do not realize the value of synthetics and like to stay with carbon base oils. Others do know the benefits and use them exclusively. I'm one that uses synthetics exclusively in ALL my cars, trucks and boats and I can show you why. You might ask; why do car and boat motor manufacturers use/go to/suggest synthetics. API says all cars should use a 5-20 blend. Go onto the API web site and read that for yourself and why. Marine and industrial engines have a different service oil.

All that aside, the time to switch to synthetics? Anytime... Many thought it was worth it to go through a break in period before switching to synthetics. That's acceptable too. I've always told folks using synthetics for the first time to change their oil and filter after the first 50 hrs (or 3000 miles as is normal with using carbon base oils). Then stretch out your change to yearly or every two on marine depending on use (7000 miles on vehicles) before you change oil. Note the color of oil when you change it AFTER your first synthetic change -(the second time). Mine looks like a light brown weak maple syrup color and I run my vehicles with 100K plus miles 10,000 before change. With a really good filter you can stretch that out further. I don't suggest more than 7500 until you know what your oil looks like and is doing for you.

Just for kicks... do the same test with your carbon base oil at 3000 miles. What color is your oil at 3000 miles? Pretty dark I'd bet. That's because carbon base oils burn at a lower heat than synthetics (just for starters). Try the syntheytics... I think you'll like it. Cleaner engine, better performance.

Your decision... use carbon base oils and you are protected. Use synthetics and you are protected just as well.

[Sunnygx]

I am an automotive machinist and I work for a reputable shop in the portland area. The only difference we typically give as far as clearnce on a marine engine is a little extra piston clearance and some extra valve guide clearance. The reason this is done is because the typical marine engine runs at a cooler operating temperature than an automotive application due to the freshwater cooling system. The extra clearance helps to eliminate piston skirt skuffing and valve sticking. On a closed cooling system the clearances would be set up the same as an automotive engine.

Synthetic oils are able to protect engine parts with a thiner film of oil due to the shape of the molecules. Perfectly round as opposed to the jagged ones found in conventional oils. They line up and stack better. Synthetic oils can also offer the same protection with lighter viscosities for the same reason.
Thinner oils offer less drag and pumping losses so race engine builders have been using lighter and lighter Synthetic oils to help free up horsepower. The same holds true for gas mileage.
Viscosity is a trade off between protection and pumping/drag losses. Ever notice how new cars recommend 10/30wt this is because it will meet there epa estimations for economy and still make the warranty mark.
Synthetic oils also offer wider multi viscosity numbers like a 5w50 or 0w30. this cannot be done with conventionals.
The only down side to synthetic is that due to the smaller molecules it tends to escape oil seals easier. But this tends to only be a problem with older engines.
I would make the switch as soon as the break in period is over. The reason to run coventionals during break in is that you want the rings to scrub into the bores and create a better seal. Also if it's not a roller cam(probably is) the cam will also need to break in a little. Synthetic oils are said to protect too well to do this effectively. But with newer machining pratices and more roller components the need for a break-in period is becoming less and less.

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by Sunnygx

I am an automotive machinist and I work for a reputable shop in the portland area. The only difference we typically give as far as clearnce on a marine engine is a little extra piston clearance and some extra valve guide clearance. The reason this is done is because the typical marine engine runs at a cooler operating temperature than an automotive application due to the freshwater cooling system. The extra clearance helps to eliminate piston skirt skuffing and valve sticking. On a closed cooling system the clearances would be set up the same as an automotive engine.

Synthetic oils are able to protect engine parts with a thiner film of oil due to the shape of the molecules. Perfectly round as opposed to the jagged ones found in conventional oils. They line up and stack better. Synthetic oils can also offer the same protection with lighter viscosities for the same reason.
Thinner oils offer less drag and pumping losses so race engine builders have been using lighter and lighter Synthetic oils to help free up horsepower. The same holds true for gas mileage.
Viscosity is a trade off between protection and pumping/drag losses. Ever notice how new cars recommend 10/30wt this is because it will meet there epa estimations for economy and still make the warranty mark.
Synthetic oils also offer wider multi viscosity numbers like a 5w50 or 0w30. this cannot be done with conventionals.
The only down side to synthetic is that due to the smaller molecules it tends to escape oil seals easier. But this tends to only be a problem with older engines.
I would make the switch as soon as the break in period is over. The reason to run coventionals during break in is that you want the rings to scrub into the bores and create a better seal. Also if it's not a roller cam(probably is) the cam will also need to break in a little. Synthetic oils are said to protect too well to do this effectively. But with newer machining pratices and more roller components the need for a break-in period is becoming less and less.

in a nut shell!

[The reason to run coventionals during break in is that you want the rings to scrub into the bores and create a better seal]

Makes it kind of obvious that the conventional oils can not protect your engine like a quality synthetic can.

I have run 100% synthetic oils in all of my vehicals since 1978. Most oils chages have been once a year or 25,000 miles. I also use synthetic trans fluids, gear oils and grease. I have had multiple cars and trucks with over 300,000 miles with no engine service what so ever and still running strong.

[Redhawk-Driver]

To The Top

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by twisted lines

Never!

We fly around the world and to space and never use petroleum oils. It would never fly. Too many extreams(Temp, pressure & loads) Conventional oils are old technology!

[KingSalmonBoy]

If MP will let you use an extended change interval using synthetic then do it. Otherwise if you are only going to put a limited amount of hours annually then stick to the manufacturer recommended oil and change interval. Why? Short engine runs tend to collect condensation (regardless of the oil type). You need to run your engine for a significant amount of time to drive it out. I ran 10W-40 chevron supreme from costco in my marine power 6.0. The oil always looked good! Synthetic Oil is better oil, but the change interval is also important.

[hunt2much]

Redhawk ~

Why don't you call MP? I'm pretty sure they're not in ca-hoots with the oil industry as others have suggested. ...and I'm also pretty sure these engines are not multi-million dollar planes or billion dollar space shuttles.

For as much money as you did spend though, I'd trust the manufaturer over IFISH mechanics. No matter how much experience Ifishers claim to have. MP builds and works on MP. I'm sure their hours in the shop dwarf any one persons knowledge here. They also hold the key, or final say, to any warranty issues.

[Sunnygx]

Originally Posted by hunt2much

Redhawk ~

Why don't you call MP? I'm pretty sure they're not in ca-hoots with the oil industry as others have suggested. ...and I'm also pretty sure these engines are not multi-million dollar planes or billion dollar space shuttles.

For as much money as you did spend though, I'd trust the manufaturer over IFISH mechanics. No matter how much experience Ifishers claim to have. MP builds and works on MP. I'm sure their hours in the shop dwarf any one persons knowledge here. They also hold the key, or final say, to any warranty issues.

That's sound advice. Be sure to ask the why? Question too.

[skyhammer]

When I bought my jet with an MP FI 350 nearly 2 years ago I called MP and asked what oil I should use.
They recommended either Valvoline or Castrol in straight 30 or 40 wt.
MP said that if I wanted to use a multi weight oil to use Chevron Delo 400LE diesel oil 15w-40w as it is higher in zinc.
When asked about synthetic oil, they were opposed to using it. They said I could cause some leaking and if I wanted to use it, wait until the warranty expired as they probably would not cover the engine under warranty.
Having said that, I have seen many people run synthetic with the same engine with no problem.
For me I am sticking with what MP told me. My first oil change was with Castrol 30wt and my second was with the Chevron 15-40.

[Beginners luck]

Originally Posted by Sunnygx

I am an automotive machinist and I work for a reputable shop in the portland area. The only difference we typically give as far as clearnce on a marine engine is a little extra piston clearance and some extra valve guide clearance. The reason this is done is because the typical marine engine runs at a cooler operating temperature than an automotive application due to the freshwater cooling system. The extra clearance helps to eliminate piston skirt skuffing and valve sticking. On a closed cooling system the clearances would be set up the same as an automotive engine.

Synthetic oils are able to protect engine parts with a thiner film of oil due to the shape of the molecules. Perfectly round as opposed to the jagged ones found in conventional oils. They line up and stack better. Synthetic oils can also offer the same protection with lighter viscosities for the same reason.
Thinner oils offer less drag and pumping losses so race engine builders have been using lighter and lighter Synthetic oils to help free up horsepower. The same holds true for gas mileage.
Viscosity is a trade off between protection and pumping/drag losses. Ever notice how new cars recommend 10/30wt this is because it will meet there epa estimations for economy and still make the warranty mark.
Synthetic oils also offer wider multi viscosity numbers like a 5w50 or 0w30. this cannot be done with conventionals.
The only down side to synthetic is that due to the smaller molecules it tends to escape oil seals easier. But this tends to only be a problem with older engines.
I would make the switch as soon as the break in period is over. The reason to run coventionals during break in is that you want the rings to scrub into the bores and create a better seal. Also if it's not a roller cam(probably is) the cam will also need to break in a little. Synthetic oils are said to protect too well to do this effectively. But with newer machining pratices and more roller components the need for a break-in period is becoming less and less.

I too worked in the auto machine shop industry for several years. Ive also been out of it for several as well. The wisdom spoken above was as true then as it is now. I couldnt have said it better myself.

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by hunt2much

Redhawk ~

Why don't you call MP? I'm pretty sure they're not in ca-hoots with the oil industry as others have suggested. ...and I'm also pretty sure these engines are not multi-million dollar planes or billion dollar space shuttles.

For as much money as you did spend though, I'd trust the manufaturer over IFISH mechanics. No matter how much experience Ifishers claim to have. MP builds and works on MP. I'm sure their hours in the shop dwarf any one persons knowledge here. They also hold the key, or final say, to any warranty issues.

First of all, MP does not manufacture engines. They marinize GM engines. If want to use what the engine manufacture recomends call GM. GM will sugest you use an API classification with a certain SAE grade. Which all olis have. The only requirement needed to meet the warenty needs.

As far as IFISHer mechanics go....They may be the most qualified or they may not..If you dont want IFISHer advice then dont ask a question here

[Imyourhuckleberry]

Originally Posted by Redhawk-Driver

What is a good time to switch to synthetic oil in my MP 5.7? It has about 26 hours on it.

Also, MP says if I use synthetic it should by Mobile 1 15-50 extended wear. Anyone know who carries that grade of oil?

Thanks

To keep this post on track. Any time after 25 hours or 1000 miles for autos would sufficient for a break in period. Then use the appropriate grade synthetic oil of you choice. You will be very pleased after using synthetic oil in you vehicles.

[hunt2much]

Originally Posted by Imyourhuckleberry

First of all, MP does not manufacture engines. They marinize GM engines. If want to use what the engine manufacture recomends call GM. GM will sugest you use an API classification with a certain SAE grade. Which all olis have. The only requirement needed to meet the warenty needs.

BUT... MP, not GM, does hold the keys to all warranty claims... So if they say NO SYN... Then to me... that means No Syn. They might not machine or forge the block... But thats about it...

And I know I sound like a broken record... BUT... I'm assuming no one here, knows MP engines better than MP! Not that there aren't talented or outstanding mechanics here either... I'm just saying that its not like most engines and manuals where the Manufacturer "recommends" "They're brand" oil only. But MP specifically says to... NOT USE SYN.

[Sunnygx]

You are pretty much right. If MP says no syn. And if you put it in it voids to warranty your hands are pretty much tied. It's kinda too bad because I feel syn. Will aid in the motor lasting longer. But with syn. There is a greater risk for oil leakage and that's probably the reason they say no. After all leaks in boats are BAD TIMES.
If it where my boat and out of warranty I would try syn. And if it developed leaks switch back to conv.

[Fishnchips]

I only run synthetic in anything that gets pushed hard. The wife's car uses dino oil, everything else gets Mobile 1. (even the lawn mower)

I wish I could find the testing that a company did with hanging strips of metal in the ocean breeze, each dipped in a different oil. The dino oils rusted right away, the synthetics did not. Mobile 1 was still shiny at the end of the test.

I know that isn't a complete test of oil performance, but it does show that the protective film is there longer with synthetic oils. If you run your boat everyday, it probably means nothing to you. But if you are like me (sadly) you are lucky to start the boat up every week. I need that film of oil to still be there for that moment of zero oil pressure as the engine starts.

The synthetics have a more uniform mixture and this allows more efficiency and power.

The synthetics are more stable in moisure, heat and friction. The viscosity is more stable; this means that your cold/hot oil pressure is more constant. Try using Pensoil or Quakerstate (hypothetically, of course, don't actually put that crap in your engine) and you will see the oil pressure drop further as the engine warms up. Pensoil and Quakerstate do a rotten job of removing the paraffin wax from their dino oils. This resurfaces later as SLUDGE.

Good oil is important; but oil FILTERS are just as important. Stay away from FRAM. Their filter media is made of paper and cardboard glued together. Better brands like WIX use steel to hold the filter media together. "So what" you say... Well, when you start your cold engine and that molasses-thick, oil pushes through your oil filter, you stand the chance of separating the filter media at the glued joint. Pieces of the filter media will then find a home in the oil passages that feed your main and rod bearings. Also, your filter isn't a filter anymore if the oil is pushing between the cracks in the FRAM glue. But the fram filters have that nice textured area that makes it easy to grip with your bare hand. Darnit...

Mobile 1 filters with Mobile 1 synthetic oil is the best bang for your buck, IMO.

Forget warantee- like they can see, smell, taste or hear the difference between dino and synthetic oils!

PS: previous owner of my boat used dino, I use synthetic. There are no oil leaks on my boat.

[Redhawk-Driver]

Great advice. I am planning on moving to synth at the next change. Also going to try the WIX filters, after I use my last Napa Gold.

Fishnchips, when do you change your oil, spring or fall?

[Fishnchips]

Originally Posted by Redhawk-Driver

Great advice. I am planning on moving to synth at the next change. Also going to try the WIX filters, after I use my last Napa Gold.

Fishnchips, when do you change your oil, spring or fall?

I believe the Napa Gold is a rebadged WIX anyway.

I change the oil when it looks or smells funny. (gas smell, burnt smell, obvious moisture, etc) The Mobile 1 usually gets me a couple seasons on an 8qt oil pan. I change the filter in spring regardless. I take it easy until the engine is up to temp and then I drive it hard and it also sees long periods of idling. We also tube and wakeboard behind it.

I wouldn't even consider using the dino oil after it sat in the sump all winter. It seems to soak up water just sitting there.

Also, I don't run the engine for short periods, this cuts the lifespan of the oil down quite a bit. It needs to get hot for a while each time the engine is started to boil the condensation out of it. Otherwise, it can make your oil acidic and that attacks the main and rod bearings.

[Redhawk-Driver]

Thanks. I appreciate the advice!

[fishin"G"man]

As to the post: "The only down side to synthetic is that due to the smaller molecules it tends to escape oil seals easier. But this tends to only be a problem with older engines."

May I add to your positive reasons for using synthetics... Yes, older engines may have hardened seals. BUT that's because of carbon base dino oils. Synthetics will keep oil seals and gaskets softer longer, they run cleaner and cooler, thus oil seals last longer. In fact old leaky seals may become hydrated enough to stop the varnished carboned seals from leaking.

[Halfhooked]

Pardon the pun, but all yall are "missin the boat"

The reason that Marine power recomends VR-1 has nothing to do with molicules.(sp)

IT HAS TO DO WITH ZINC!

Zinc is the prime additive to fight wear in extreme duty engine applications. I would say that running at 4500RPM would constitute "Extreme duty"

So, because the EPA is mandating tougher and tougher emission regs all the time, conventional automotive oils have cut down the ammount of ZINC that they add to conventional petrouleum based motor oils. On the other hand, "Racing" oil, if you look at the back of almost any brand of "Racing " oil say, "for offroad use only" This is because high PPM of Zinc additives are a benefit in a "Racing" of extreme wear application. Thats why race cars use the stuff.

VR-1 is a great oil.

HOWEVER, synthetic oil has a few VERY important benefits going for it, The biggest is resistant to "Sludging" buildup inside the motor. This is due to the fact that it is based from Synthetic base stocks instead of petrolium base stocks.

I have a 2000 Chevy Suburban wih a Vortec 454. It has 123,000 Mi on the clock and has had mobil 1 10W-30 Synthetic since the day it was driven off the lot. I had an Intake manifold gasket changed at 115,000.

My Mechanic had the intake off and called me up to the shop. . "take a look"... The inside of the heads LOOKED PRETTY shinney and like NEW! Thats what oil changes every 4k do for you. Id like to think that it has to do with synthetic oil as well. NO SLudge in the oil galleys.


So my question is, if you could get a Synthetic oil with the added ZINC properties of a Racing oil such as VR-1, why wouldnt you?

Thats why i run Mobil 1 15-50 Extended wear. Almost DOUBLE the Zinc additives of conventional oil and about identical to the Zinc content of VR-1.

Just my . Marine power told me that it had more than enough Zinc to satisfy their requirements. They were fine with it...

[seahag]

Originally Posted by Imyourhuckleberry

I use mobil.1 full synth. in my 5.7 & have been happy. no going back for me! Good luck & fish on!

[Halfhooked]

Back to your original post however, i ran the factory oil until 10 hrs were on the clock. Then ran VR-1 40 wt from 10 until 40 hrs and then ran 15-50 Mobil 1 ever since...

For what its worth, Mobil -1 Synthetic is used as a factory fill for all of the new Corevettes that come rolling off the assembly line...

best of luck, i think we can all be anal about what to run, but if you use a quality oil and change it often, either one is prbably ok.

[Redhawk-Driver]

bump

[hunt2much]

I recind all that I said about Syn oil in MP engines... I was reading in my service book while doing my 50 hr. prior to hitting the ocean next week.... that syn is okay... And if thats the case.. than I would agree that anytime is a good time to switch after break in... or so I've been told not to do it until after initial break in.

[Fishizzle]

After a year and a half does everyone feel the same? I'm at 50 hours on my 6.0L MP and am debating between VR-1 30w or Mobil 1 15w-50?
Thank you

[Jedcraft]

I started using Mobil 1 at 100hrs on my 2004 5.7. So far so good. Right at 230hrs now.

[MattPark]

The main benefit of synthetic oil is the possibility of extended drain intervals. It's not "slipperier" and doesn't necessarily protect any better. It doesn't break down as quickly.

Google bobistheoilguy for everything you want to know about oil, and a thousand times more.