Help with floor vinyl install

Fish mojo · 01-26-2002, 08:15 AM

I have a 1991 19' Spectrum I/O with original carpet- yuck!! There also are a couple of squeeky spot on the floor deck. I'd like to strip out the old carpet and flooring and replace it with new flooring and marine vinyl (I HATE the sand in the carpet!) Any helpful ideas out there? I found Cabela's floor vinyl for 16.99/yard cheaper than anything in town. Anyone used it? Also, I looked at 3/4 marine plywood is $62.00 a sheet!!! Would ACX 1 side finished at $23.00 do the job? The guy at the lumber yard thought so if it is sealed. Thanks for any help. Anyone with a dry shop I can pull the boat in to do it near Boring/ Damascus?
:whazzup:

Kinebra · 01-26-2002, 08:24 AM

Buy your vinyl from the Boat shop out by Fisherman's in John's Landing...Boat World or Marine World, something like that. I think I paid 11.00 or 12.00 yd.

Scutes · 01-26-2002, 08:44 AM

I'd definitely use the marine ply. The wood is a better grade as well as the adhesive. The extra cost of the material will not seem important in 2 years when you have to redo the job. If you are determined to use ACX then seal both sides and edges with West System Epoxy- 2 coats minimum. I do this with marine ply and the stuff lasts forever. Epoxy is the only way to get a truly longlasting seal. Hope this helps.
Gregg H

Lipripper · 01-26-2002, 08:44 AM

You could use the ACX but you would be right back where you are now in a few years. I would highly recommend the double sided MDO(medium density overlay) marine grade plywood.If you store the boat inside you might be able to make the ACX last a little longer. Also you might check into pressure treated plywood. Not sure if it comes in anything more than 1/2". Good luck.

will_e_fish · 01-26-2002, 09:12 AM

Sorry My garage is full of poles camping stuff and wood projects. I love boat projects. Sounds like you have a rotten stringer somewhere. I usually replace them with cedar because it holds up to water & rot it light cuts easy and Home Depot has it.Cedar is as good as ply or better than for stringers. Then for flooring Try to get Marine Plywood MR Plywood 87 & Stark in pdx or there is a shop in boring forget the name, but they have ply in 10 ft leghts if you need that. Other good choice for flooring is Mahog about as spendy as Marine durable too.
Vinyl I think Boaters World @ Jantzen Beach or West Marine (but they try to hurt you wiht High$ prices). Is there a difference in Vinyl? Marine Grade Vinyl? Once it is down and sealed it is plastic right?

White Willie · 01-26-2002, 10:13 AM

I have redone my floors before in my old boat. I used marine grade plywood, a good quality glue and bought my vinyl from fisherman's it was the cheapest in town. If you try to cut corners it will only bite you in the a$$ later. If you need an extra hand email me its better with two people.

NAUTI-NOTIONS · 01-26-2002, 01:06 PM

I redid the floor in my sled using the vinyl that cabelas sell. outstanding stuff. very happy. just don't walk on your knees as it will remove the skin. if yer gonna do any off shore drilling a blanket is a must

fish_on · 01-26-2002, 05:37 PM

If you want it to be the last floor you ever put in go with poly boards. You can get it at TAP plastics in Tigard, won't warp, crak, rot, or split. Cover it with vinal and you have the last floor you will ever need. I got my vinal from fishermans, don't buy the adhesive from them too much $$$ you can get it at Home Depot for half their price.

Bait O' Eggs · 01-26-2002, 06:08 PM

I have been told the only difference between marine grade plywood and exterior grade plywood is all the blows are filled on all veneers on the marine grade and the glue is the same.

Does anybody know ?for sure if the glue is different? I would ask if the grade of wood is better, but better than what is the question. I would guess the grade of veneers on interior plys is grade C or D on exterior plywood. Does marine grade plywood use different grades than exterior grade?

fishchaser · 01-26-2002, 06:20 PM

I know what to do with the carpet when you get done...Keep it in the boat and get a new boat. :grin: :grin: :grin: I'm a Spectrum owner too. (You poor soul

Fish mojo · 01-26-2002, 07:32 PM

BOE, that's exactly what the salesman at Mr.Plywood said-same "A" grade veneer, same glue, just the voids were filled. How about it, any old mill guys out there know? Thanks for all the help. Fish on, any idea how thick for the poly boards and what it costs?

STGRule · 01-26-2002, 07:46 PM

Did a quick search on Google. Looks like the difference IS just the grade of the plys. Has to be A or B With blow size restrictions and fill restrictions.

mike5097 · 01-26-2002, 07:48 PM

I just redid the floor on my 26' boat.
It was a pretty big floor and I used the best quality exterior grade I could find.
I purchased it at MR Plywood in PDX.
The Mr plywood guy told me that the only difference in marine vs exterior was the absence of voids in the marine plywood. The glues are identical. The glue the use in exterior and marine is the same, it will not degrade from contact with water. However, if you get to the point where you have water contact with your glue, you have a much bigger problem.
The wood will swell and contract seperating plys.
It will also start to rot.

WHATEVER PLYWOOD YOU CHOOSE USE SEVERAL COATS OF GOOD QUALITY EPOXY ADHESIVE TO SEAL IT!!!!

I posted questions on several boatbuilding forums about whether to use exterior of marine grade for flooring.
I was advised that if you were constucting a boat hull, use only marine grade. The absence of voids in this type of ply make it structurally stronger when being used on curves.

For the floor however it was said that exterior was OK to use as long as it was properly sealed.
Just find the best grade you can.

If you don't mind mail order, buy your vinyl from
Defender Industries at:

http://www.defender.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?keywords=nautolex&frames =yes&store=yes

The best price I have found and even with shipping costs you will probably come out ahead.
They are great to deal with also!
You can by Nautolex adhesive at West Marine for $45.00 or you can do as I have done on my 14' boat, use indoor/outdoor carpet adhesive from Home Depot.
I used the Nautolex adhesive on the big boat and the only difference I saw was the price.

By the way, be careful about purchasing the exterior treated plywood. A lot of times they treat it with a copper based solution. If you have an aluminum boat, this may cause big problems if you have direct contact between something with copper in it and the aluminum.
Mike

[ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: mike5097 ]</p>

Pilar · 01-27-2002, 05:08 PM

If you are working on an FRP boat (Fiberglass Reinforced Polyester) Be very careful about using epoxy. Epoxy will stick to anything. However when it is cured, FRP will not stick to it. Lay down some wood coated with epoxy and you will never be able to glass over it. It will separate the first time it flexes.

Marine Plywood is made locally at Linnton Plywood Association in Linnton near the St John Bridge. They have the best price anywhere. The main difference is the lack of voids. This prevents water from getting between the laminations and swelling the sheet apart. These sheets are 'A' on one side and A-B on the other.

Western red cedar makes good stringers. It won't rot, ever, and its flexible. You may have some trouble bonding FRP to it because of the oils. Cedar is soft so be carefull when you screw things to it. Select boards at Home depot or wherever that are clear (no knots or splits) and have a fine close grain. You may have to graze the whole rack to find a few boards but it is worth it.

'Fiberglass Boats' by Hugo de Plessis is a good explanation of how glass works. You can get it at Powells' or at the library.

Also TAP has some flyers for fiberglass. They explain how the chemicals work.

Marine Vinyl is good but you may be able to score at a vinyl flooring place buying leftovers or odd size rolls. I got a blue 1/8" thick diamond-plate for real cheap. 8' by 10' for $30.

[ 01-27-2002: Message edited by: Pilar ]</p>

WOODUXS · 01-30-2002, 09:38 PM

Sorry for the late reply but what did you need to know??? I have done many linoulium (sp?) floors and I work at Palm Harbor Homes so mabey I can help. e- mail me for more info...........WOODUXS@aol.com

Floater · 06-07-2002, 04:05 PM

Ok, a late entry here but this may be important to someone. I'm currently replacing the deck, fuel tank, etc and the CCA treated vs. aluminum issue caught my eye. Here's what I found:

http://www.conradwp.com/fasteners.htm

It sounds like the CCA issue (copper vs. aluminum) can be a real issue over time. But, it looks like the CBA treated plywood that I want at Parr lumber reacts no differently chemically speaking (corrosion) with the aluminum then untreated lumber would. Yeeaa

[ 06-07-2002, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: Floater ]

mike5097 · 06-07-2002, 06:02 PM

Another late entry.
I read on an aluminum boat repair board that there is a serious health issue with the CCA treated plywood. CCA stands for Copper-Chromium-Arsenic and it is dangerous stuff!The arsenic wards off insects. The copper stops fungus. The chromium helps it bind to the wood.
I don't know what the "B" in CBA stands for though.
Look at this!

www.cdc.gov/Niosh/elcosh/docs/d0400/d000464/d000464.html

Be Aware and be careful!

Mike