Stainless & Paint

[Mr.Kitch'nPass]

I got the big kitcn pass Sunday at the boat show and ordered a new Northriver. :grin: :shocked: :grin: Someone tell me why I would need a stainless prop? Also my wife wants full paint.(she thinks its pretty)I think it will scratch and not be pretty long.Thanks to everyone who hs responded to all my questions in the past. It really helped when I went to talk to the dealer. Buy the way I now have two boats I need to sell. Alumaweld 18ft guide model and a Rinell 18ft open bow i/o runabout both very nice. Thanks again. Dave

[Bob Barthlow]

Mr.kitchn pass, 18' alumaweld guide model what? you might try ifish classifieds.

[Mofish]

Pros and Cons of stainless props. all around stainless is the best way to go you get a much better hole shot no prop flex and very well balanced. The aluma props flex a great deal. Aluma prop break very easy and you will need to have a extra. If you hit something with a stainless one of two things will happen you chop up the item or you will break you out drive gear shaft. If you running alot in the valley rivers go with aluma prop if not go with unpainted stainless.

Mofish

PS Have a Searay with a Stainless also have a jet boat for the valley rivers>

[dogrobber]

YO! Kitch'n Pass,
Congrats on the purchace, the manuf. must have removed the waves on the water. I used to have a Glasstron and put a stainless prop on a O.B. The prop went thru the small junk like a chainsaw. However,I think a rebuild on a prop for $50.00 is cheaper than a lower shaft. Let me know when you are going to bring it to St. Helens, we will take it down river close to TROJAN get some exposure and you won't have to use the nav. lights.

[Joe]

I have owned a North River for almost four years. My guess is that the paint on the bottom half will probably last better that the top half. Every where there is any stainless (such as snaps, screws, bolts or tow hooks) the paint is bubbling and peeling. This is after washing the boat after every use!
:whazzup:

The stainless prop will pay for itself many times over in the first few years, especially after the many replacement and repairs after hitting any little stick, etc., with the aluminum in the spring time.

Make sure it's the proper pitch to keep the RPM's
up where they should be in the motor operating range, not too low or too high RPM's.

[Fish mojo]

About Joe's response, every used North River I've looked at (2-3 year old and older) has that blistering paint problem. Whassup with that? Certainly doesn't make a good impression. Any other brands having or not having that problem? :whazzup:

[GoFish]

Forget the paint!

[Pilar]

Mr. Kitchenpass, think of the aluminum prop as a fuse. I'd rather buy a fuse then let the marina tear into my lower unit with a blank check. I rebuild 3 or 4 props a year. This costs at most $200.

Gentlemen can agree to disagree Pilar. :grin: Rubber clutch on the stainless should spin before that ever happens. Of course this can also become "live and learn" by the time you could have bought the stainless twice over and you get sick of fixing props, dependent upon where you run your boat. Anywhere in the Willamette system or whereever there is debris, it will be costly and regular. :grin:

Of course how can I debate anyone that starts his truck with a screwdriver and what year is your outboard? :grin: :grin: :grin:

[ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: ****** ]</p>

[Pilar]

How'd you find out about the screwdriver ******? The outboard is a '99, The I/O is a '77.

Chev. it or leave it!

That 'Whack!' you hear when you hit something with your stainless prop is the sound of your propshaft bending. Oh, you thought the motor was supposed to vibrate ... :shocked:

[WaterDog]

****** is right on this one (he usually is :smile: ). The stainless is the only way to go. I had one on my last boat and the hole shot was better, acceleration was smoother, and it resisted dings better. The part of the Willamette I boat is shallow and filled with debris. You could hit a small stick, say ¼ to ½ inch in diameter and if you don’t have a spare prop, your done for the day. A small stick will take out a surprisingly large chunk out of it. Been there done that.

The other thing to consider is to get it with the stock aluminum then go aftermarket for the SS prop. I got a Rapture from Cabela’s for $279, Steven’s wanted over $400 for an OMC, and then next cheapest was a place in Seattle for $379. Shop around. If you do it this way you now have your spare prop. :grin:

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Pilar:
How'd you find out about the screwdriver<hr></blockquote>


You told the whole board in a post Pilar? :grin:

Prop input is just an opinion.

[ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: ****** ]</p>

[hawgcatcher]

I think your wife is right. Get it painted. A nice pink or maybe candy apple red. I bet you know someone that could give you a real deal. Something that might stand out. Just kidding. Paint can be a real pain after a few hits with a tree in the water or a big rock. But remember that if your wife goes with you, bow to her.

[Pilar]

Oh well, You are a gentleman in any case ******.

It's good to have options and if you have an 'experienced' rig, a tool bag is a good thing too.

:grin: :grin: