finally building my first rod need advice

native steelie · 01-23-2010, 12:20 AM

so i finally got the money together to build my first rod, i have a few questions that fallow

so the first thing i decided on was a casting handle kit from st croix, 19 3/8"
secondly i decided for guides were to be american tackles 8tc titanium casting guides which come in 4 size 8, 3 size 10's and one size 12 fallowed by a matching size 8 rod tip. then i wasnt sure but i decided to go ahead and get a cork composite butt cap (it was only like $1.50). i got some red and silver size A thread for wrapping guides obviously. now heres the part i dont fully understand. coating the eyes and attaching the rod top. what would i need. i know a clear coat for over the threads but which type should i purchase. i see theres a clearcoat from flexcoat and such. ive watched a few videos and so on but im still stumped. any advice will be really helpfull. as far as i know there arent very many options to purchase rod building supplies within a hour drive from my house so ive been mainly putting things together via different rod building websites.

if theres anything i forgot that i will need for the rod its self please let me know. as for supplies, tools and accessories im not so concerned about as of yet. im going to try and keep it as basic as possible nothing too fancy so far ive peiced this together to be just under 100 bucks

Cap'n Ron · 01-23-2010, 06:31 AM

Congratulations! Welcome to the psycosis. I dont see a winding check or hookeeper in your list.

There are several choices for clear coat. (epoxy) Flexcoat, diamondite, U40, BDC, Threadmaster, Gudebrod, etc... I have used most of them and they all work well. The epoxy that you want for that purpose is a "finish" epoxy. Generally it comes in 2 parts; hardner and resin, that get mixed together in equal portions. I would go with a 2 part light build for your first rod such as flexcoat lite. Anyway, it is different from the adhesive epoxy that you need for assembling the handle, butt cap, reel seat and foregrip which is also a 2 part epoxy. A lot of people use U-40 rodbond which will give you plenty of working time before it sets up.

As far as attatching the rod top, go with flexcoat tip top adhesive that looks like a glue stick.

Good luck! Post your questions as you go. There are some very knowledgable people who look in this forum who can help and the questions that you ask will help the next guy who is getting started.

Poindexter · 01-23-2010, 10:23 AM

I took a couple of classes from a well-known local rod builder when I first started out. It was lots of fun and very educational -- you get lots of time saving tips they have picked up over years of building rods every day. The course didn't cost much and I ended up with a pretty nice rod. So began the obsession . . .

Raymond Adams · 01-23-2010, 03:14 PM

I don't see Color Preserver mentioned. If your red & silver thread are the metallic or NCP type then you won't need it but if you use regular nylon and want to keep the color a close match to whats on the spool you will need to use Color Preserver (CP for short) before you apply the thread finish epoxy. The epoxy reacts with the dye in the thread and will darken it (considerably in some cases).

native steelie · 01-23-2010, 07:28 PM

thanks cap'n rod you nailed it for the adhesive questions. ive used epoxy many times for hundreds of different applications. i just wasnt sure which went were

. the hook keeper came with the guides btw. i dont get why guides come in sets and no tip. probably because of the many different rod tip sizes i would assume?

as for class's go. i cannot afford such class's. this project alone i have been waiting to build for almost a year. i just didnt want to get into it till i had the money otherwise many sleepless nights would ensue lol

thanks fo

James in Idaho · 02-01-2010, 10:52 AM

Depending on what the rod is going to be used for you might think about an exposed blank reel seat. Sometimes the rod handle kits are more expensive than just buying the parts seperately.

native steelie · 02-01-2010, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James in Idaho

Depending on what the rod is going to be used for you might think about an exposed blank reel seat. Sometimes the rod handle kits are more expensive than just buying the parts seperately.

its going to be a one peice 7'6" drift rod. its actually a popping rod but it feels like a nice drift rod. gloomis p844 glx. scored big on this for only 20 bucks. my friend got a few gloomis blanks for free from a rod building store that went out of sale in Humboldt county a few years ago

classicriverrunner · 02-01-2010, 09:50 PM

a good source for rod building parts :: JANN'S NETCRAFT - a complete catalog for rod / spinner building. 1-800-netcraft or www.jannsnetcraft.com
I also buy supplies @ Anglers Workshop in Woodland. Sounds like you are on the right track and are getting good advice.

James in Idaho · 02-04-2010, 08:52 AM

A rod like that I would not put a St. Croix handle kit on. Nothing wrong with the St. Croix kit, I have used it on a couple of rods, but you will be well served by a exposed blank seat. The sensitivity factory is much, much higher. I'd also go with single foots for most of the guides, every wrap and finish adds weight. (not sure if you've thought of that) Go with double foots on your 12 and 10 size guides, single foots from there. I've had great luck with Mudhole, and their catalog has very nice color rod building instructions right up front.

Gus Orviston · 02-05-2010, 09:46 AM

I don't think you need sensitive exposed blank on a popping rod.. do you? You aren't detecting a subtle bite - it is there are it isn't?

gus

James in Idaho · 02-09-2010, 08:56 AM

Since he's using it as a drift rod rather than a popping rod, I'd go exposed blank. I like my drift rods as sensitive and light as possible. I must confess, not sure what a popping rod is, must be a bass thing.

Just kiddin', but I don't fish for green fish very often anymore. Like 'em all, carp to sturgon!