Welded vs. Rivited Boats

[judyfish99]

Within the next year I am thinking about buying a boat at least 17 feet long with 2 motors for safety. Since I have a '64 3/4 ton GMC pickup, thinking about the line like a Lund, but would love to have a Spectrum. Some guys are telling me that the rivets in those boats come loose. Would like to buy an aluminum welded boat, but may be too heavy for the green monster to pull. The green monster also doesn't have power steering on it. Missing having a boat so my friends and I can go crabbing in the bays and chase Salmon in the rivers. Tired of being a bankie. Would like some advice from you all. Kinda new on ifish. I probably won't find answers tonite cause I work swing. Thx-judyfish99

[steelheadslayer]

I have a '92 Smoker Craft which is riveted. I've never had a leakage problem with it. A couple friends had the same boat and theres leaked like a sieve. If I were to buy another boat I'd get a welded one, especially if I was going to be running in an area with a lot of swells or wind chop.

[Pickles]

I did the riveted boat thing, and lets just say now I own a welded one! In the 4 years I had my starcraft, I had to replace over 12 rivets. Don't get me wrong riveted boats are great for lakes and small rivers, but if your going to do coastal fishing or anything on the Columbia, Riveted boats just can't take the pounding!

[k9jeff]

I have an 18 foot welded boat and tow it with a 71 3/4 ton chev,, 350v8 auto. NO problems towing at all. I even toss a camper into the mix.

With just the boat I am sure the 292 chev 6cyl will do it without a problem. What engine to you have in your chev????

[shorthair]

i've got a 2000 smoker with a 50 and a 9.9 no trouble w/rivets fish the columbia 95% of the time. have stuck to this rule if i cant use 48 oz. or less its too rough come back another day. 3/4 ton GM should pull it NO problem if in fair shape.

[Hawg Caller]

WELDED...and your rig will tow it , no problem, I've towed alot heavier with the same type rig.the power steering would be your only issue, but should'nt be a problem(unless your really led footin it to the river :grin: )

[Reel Premier]

Have a welded alum boat and love it. Of course welds can crack if you pound the boat hard enough and there is a weak weld somewhere, but IMO a welded boat is the only way to go. I have a few friends that have riveted boats and they leak like a sieve. If you bought a brand new riveted boat I'm sure it would be some time until you saw any leaks, but eventualy you will end up with some. Especialy if you run it in the Columbia where it can kick up some good swells and wind chop. Also, if you are going to go with a welded boat I would consider a boat that has continues welds instead of segmented welds. It just makes for a overall stronger boat.

As far as the towing issue involved with your truck, like you said it's 3/4 ton so you have the running gear for hauling, and if you have the 350 you will have no problems. That truck should haul up to a 20ft boat without a blink. :grin:

[FishinTechnician]

My recommnedation is to get a welded boat. Most every riveted boat I have been in leaked like a sieve and that has been several. My Dad had a Starcraft that leaked bad and started leaking again after it was repaired. My hunting and fishing partner here has a Smokercraft and it leaks. Guys I duck hunted with back in Arkansas all had riveted boats and they leaked so bad you had to empty the water out of them at mid-day to keep from swamping them. Don't even consider a riveted boat, especially if you tend to be a little rough with them.

[fishinpoor]

all i can say is follow the advice of those who replyed before me,welded all the way.

[Smj]

I used my 13' Smoker HARD, on the Willamette, Columbia and bays, year round....It never leaked a drop in ten years.

Now I've got a 17.5' Smoker Stealth, had it for three years and love it.

I guess Smoker and Sylvan must really be taking it in the shorts with a ten year guarantee on leaks in their hulls if every body knows someone who's "Smoker leaked like a sieve".

Judy, I'm not sure that a boat like an Alumaweld Stryker IS really that much heavier than my 17.5' Smoker. If I wasn't into bassing as much I would have gone with a Hewes or an Alumaweld type boat. The reason being is that there's not so much FooFoo stuff (carpeting on the sides and such) to get all bloody and slimey and wet fishing for salmon, not to mention the ease of just taking a pressure washer to the inside of the boat after a day in the salt.

You ought to check out the Hewes dealer up on Marine Dr. and look at their 16'-18' boats. At the Sportsmans show they were the only dealer that a salesman actually came up and talked to the three of us, early on the first day, the other dealers were too busy yacking to each other and ignored us. I was quite suprised at the Hewes prices compared to what I paid for my Smoker.

Good luck, the looking's really fun! Just wait 'till your sitting in your new bare bones boat telling the salesman, "I want these motors,I want this over here and that over there......."

Smj

[Private-Aye-Fish]

I have a Gregor I consider it the best of both worlds. Light weight like a lund or smoker yet welded. It is a 1977 and it catches a lot of fish and with some flitz shines like new.

Gregor Boats

Phil

[zipper]

I owned a 1984 Lund Tyee - my Dad bought it new and I sold it last year. In 20 years not one rivet leaked. That boat was built to take it. Very, very solid boat. That was my Dad's 3rd Lund - never a problem with any of them. I bought a different style of boat with my new one, the cockpit forward design, and welded was really my only option in that design. Most riveted boats have a larger area in front of the windshield - and a seat - most welded boats don't have that - leaving more room in the back. Go out and look at both styles, don't be afraid of rivets - you can easily tell if they leak by visual inspection. Oh, and if you go to the midwest - MN,SD,ND,NB - you won't find welded boats - 99% (of the aluminum boats) are riveted with very few complaints. Have fun with the search and keep us posted as to what you do! zip

[KalamaSpark]

well ihad a lowe 15ft i caught a lot of fish out of and it never leeked. but i just depeds on were you are going to fish and how much money you want to spend ? I ordered a new hewescraft in 2001 17'9" sea runner with a sport jet. we have fished from Bonnieville to the ocean inthe columbia it is the best all around boat ive ever fished out of. I have two freinds that also bought the same boats. :tongue: as far as towing i think it weighs 1600lbs

[mtpar]

Welded or glass :grin:

[reeldick]

I used Lund and Starcraft boats in walleye tournaments in the midwest for years. Those boats got pounded hard in some big water. I never had a leak from loose rivets. I never even heard about it until I moved to Oregon where there is competition from welded boats.

Both welded and riveted boats have their good points and bad points. The important thing is to get a quality built product. Welds will crack and rivets will loosen and leak These are "Facts" about aluminum boats. Eventualy they happen.

Either way, aluminum isn't the best choice for a saltwater boat. If you do plan on using it in saltwater make sure it has plenty of zincs. Aluminum is probably the best material for a river boat.

[Freakwater]

I'm with Kokanee Killer. Gregor's are a great welded boat for the money. Also may want to check out a North River Revenge. Towing any of the above mentioned boats should not be a concern with your rig.

Freak

[hookumhi]

buy welded if you dont want trouble!

[judyfish99]

Hi, I'm up and kinda awake. Waiting for coffee. My truck has a v-6, 330(?) ci. Just had the stromberg carb rebuilt and a 4 speed with a granny gear. Leaves me 3 to drive with. Just had a complete tune-up. Thanks for all the info, Clemens Marine is just down the road. Will look around for a while. Gotta save up money for a down payment. Have some of it. I guess about 3 grand should do it? Happy fishing!!!!

[trouttroller]

I have a 14' Valco been a good boat but leaks like crazy, loose rivets that hold the seats. Anyone got a way to stop the leaks? Is there a way to spot weld the rivets or is that to much hassle and expense. I tried silicone but that didn't last to long. If anyone has any suggestions I'll be watching. Thanks

[Freakwater]

I've pulled an 18' NR sled and 115 jet with a tired old Toyota 4 banger. You'll have no problems.

Freak

TT,
Toss the silicone in the trash were it belongs. It is easy to reset the rivets with two people a rivet set and two hammers. When I lived in Alaska I picked up two Starcraft boats that were leakers and in about 6 hours each we had them back into good shape and sold them in a few days.

My personal preference would be welded but there is nothing wrong with a QUALITY riveted hull.

[ 03-04-2004, 09:08 AM: Message edited by: Keta ]

[judyfish99]

There is one boat I would have loved to had. It's called "Wild Hair". I guess the guy who built them had to retire for health reasons. I can relate to wild hair because of my long (colored) red hair. My Dad was a carrottop so it looks o.k. Just hate them grey hairs!!!

[Dan D]

Well, since I have sold both welded and riveted boats for several years (Lund, Weldcraft, and Duckworth), I think I could contribute some helpful information to all.

First and foremost, the best boat for the money is the boat that best fits your needs. If the layout and design do not conform to your fishing style, it won't matter how well it is built, you won't be happy. That being said, there is more than one way to build a a good quality, reliable boat.

If you buy a boat and do not use it for its intended purpose, you will ultimately have problems. I have seen riveted boats leak after being beaten on the rocks or beached and battered too frequently. I have also seen good quality shallow vee welded boats cave in from excessive pounding in rough water because the interior structure welds (framing) failed after repeat pounding.

MOST welded boats built in the northwest are designed for shallow water running. They excel in any area where they are frequently being beached or pounded, and they offer lots of interior space and low maintenance. They are easier to anchor than a Lund or Smokercraft because of the way the bow is designed, and they offer more room behind the windshield. Most of my customers who do a lot of anchoring for sturgeon or trolling for trout and salmon really like this layout.

Riveted boats like the Lund and Smokercraft are better designed for those who want to do a little of everything. They will ride better in rough water in comparison to a welded boat of the same size, they offer more interior storage and a more open layout, but less open space. Almost all of my customers who fish walleye or bass prefer this layout over the welded boats. The big advantage that the riveted boats can offer to these customers is stability (wider bottoms) and better boat control when trolling (especially at slow speeds).

I have seen too many people in the last few years debate over the construction method of the boat that they are buying, and totally disregard how the boat fits their needs. Make it a point to ride in several brands and styles of boats before buying, and you will be much happier with your purchase.

Good Luck,

Dan

[Beefcake]

Judy- I see you are from Mayberry (Milwaukie - I grew up there). If you are mainly looking at fishing the willie, I would look at an older fiberglass runabout. I have owned 5 boats in the past 3 years, and I have found that $3,000 will get you a very nice 14-15' Smoker, Lund, Duroboat, etc; but for the same price you can get a 1980's 18' runabout that will be more comfortable and have more power when you need it. It will also be more stable in bigger waters (Columbia or bays). While I am always jealous of all the cool $20-40K aluminum sleds that most of the ifishers run, I feel pretty good about having less than 25% of that invested in a very comfortable late-model 19' Bayliner that allows me to take the kids skiing too!

As for towing, your rig should do it with no problems. You may have to downshift on the big hills if you try taking it to the C.O. lakes or the coast, but the truck will be fine. If the lack of power steering bugs you, it isn't that tough to add (way cheaper than trading for a newer truck). I would get bids from a good smaller shop like Lentz Automotive in SE Portland. Actually, for a job like that, I would take it to the shop across the street from the market in Maupin. It's a good excuse to go fish the Deschutes for a weekend, and their labor rates are about half of what you pay in Portland.

Good luck.

[Water Ready]

Nice job Dan D.
Hit the Rivot on the Head! Another problem with most is Horsepower ratings. Rivoted boats did well for years before excessive horsepower was thought to be needed. The rivers and waters of the Northwest are a lot harder than the puddles in the midwest. :tongue: That was where most rivoted boats were built.
Welded boats built in the Northwest are built from people that have experienced these waters. Most things that occur are usually done from excessive pounding when throttle control should be a priority. Barge wakes and the pounding of the Columbia river is similar to driving your favorite car or truck down the railroad tracks. :shocked:
Any and most boats, rivoted or welded, cannot handle the abuse of the Northwest waters, if not throttled back in everyday use. Something is going to break. :depressed: RPM's equals traction, but also causes destruction on the waters of the Northwest.
Just my .02 :grin: Happy Fishn'

[judyfish99]

I had a fiberglass boat ('69 Tahiti). It was starting to split near the transom, Had a '69 125 hp Merc sitting on it. Sold it quite a long time ago, missing having a boat. Thanks very much for the info, you guys are the best!!! [img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img]

[Dipnet]

We have had two riveted Smokercrafts over the last 15 years. The first is a 15 year old 14' Alaskan that sits in the water 6 months out of the year and has never leaked a drop. It is used mainly on Tenmile Lake, and tidewater down at Tillamook. The second was the 16' Osprey that we had for 2 years and used on the Willamette and Columbia almost exclusively. Never a leak in it either up until we traded it in on the NR last month. We have been very happy with both.

Dipnet :grin:

[night stocker]

Welded all the way.They are a heavier constucted boat.IMHO,if I can take the pounding,then my boat can also.I think the better boat builders feel that way also,or they should.I did have one problem many years ago,not with the weld itself.It was a crack parallel with the weld about 2 inches from it.It was about 6 inches long and that thing leaked.The manufacture welded a big plate over the top of it.A big skid plate so to speak.All at no cost to me.So,it is double thickness where it gets alot of wear from shore landings.No leaks and I have got airborn many a time.So,I think a good welded boat should not fall apart no matter how much pounding you subject it to.Now...if I could keep from getting wet,that is another story.

[judyfish99]

Last fall, I was wailing out to Buoy 10 in a 22' Blue Alumaweld from Warrenton. Just skimming along the tops of the waves. A couple of times we were airborn. Loved it until I sat straight up in the chair and came down hard. Felt my back going "crunch"!!!! Ouch!!! [img]graemlins/1zhelp.gif[/img] I had to slow down and let the owner take over. Man, did I learn a lesson!!!

ns,
You're fooling yourself. Your boat was not made to be airborne and you will eventually experience work hardening and lots of cracks. The doubler that the manufacturer put in will transfer the stress to somewhere else and it will crack again.
A welded boat generally is a heavier built boat but not necessarily a "Better Boat" than a riveted one. I've owned both and wouldn't have any problems buying either one, depending on what I want it for. My next aluminum boat will probably be a welded boat, because I plan on using it in small rivers. If I needed a "Lake Boat" a riveted one would probably be my first choice. For the ocean an aluminum boat would be my last choice.

[night stocker]

Keta,maybe I am fooling myself,I have been known to do that.That crack happened 6 months after I owned that boat.14 years later,and still no problems knock on wood(aluminum?)Do you think it would of failed by now?I think that thats a pretty good test of time.I will tell you,I have beat the heck out of that boat, and it soaks it up.From the Deschutes to the rockpile to B10.Wherever and whenever.Doesn't matter.I wouldn't have it my garage if it wasn't tougher than I am.If it does crack again,I guess I'll deal with it and it will fish again. to you.And you are right about it not the best ocean boat,but it gets the job done and I feel confident that it won't let me down at a bad time.

ns,
As long as you are aware and maintain your boat it will be good boat for you. ALL boats need to be inspected and maintained regularly. I know a GOOD non-ferrous welder in Salem that can help you when you do develop cracks :depressed: , he does ALL of my aluminum work :grin:

[Flyguy]

I have a 14 Duro boat that dosn't leak and takes many beatings. The duro joint is seemless and no welds or rivets. I love this boat. Works great in the bays and the Willy. I would highly recommend the Duro Boat.

Lots of Duro Boats in SE Alaska.

[Ty]

U might want to look into an Sea Ark they are welded, light, strong, and inexpensive!!!!

http://seaark.com/site/htmlos/011210...52229857725585

[Riverskip]

Sold my smokercraft as it was leaking and got a 16 ft spectrum with a 40hp and a 15 hp kicker and tow it with a 4 cyl pu and can load and launch by my self with ease.

[judyfish99]

Did you buy that Spectrum out of Brinsfield? WWWWaaaahhhh, that might have been the boat I was droooling over. That year, the Spectrum boat was made by Fisher and was welded. Something like that I think I could handle buying. [img]graemlins/hearton.gif[/img] judyfish99

[sss5358]

Originally Posted by judyfish99

Within the next year I am thinking about buying a boat at least 17 feet long with 2 motors for safety. Since I have a '64 3/4 ton GMC pickup, thinking about the line like a Lund, but would love to have a Spectrum. Some guys are telling me that the rivets in those boats come loose. Would like to buy an aluminum welded boat, but may be too heavy for the green monster to pull. The green monster also doesn't have power steering on it. Missing having a boat so my friends and I can go crabbing in the bays and chase Salmon in the rivers. Tired of being a bankie. Would like some advice from you all. Kinda new on ifish. I probably won't find answers tonite cause I work swing. Thx-judyfish99

Very old argument welded VS Riveted. Really depends on what you want to do with the boat. I own a 22 foot Smokercraft. It's a 1988 and its been going over the Columbia bar for 15 years and moored each summer (all summer) in the Ilwaco Marina. It does leak some. But with the beating this boat has taken I really don't think a welded boat would have done any better. What I like about it is that it is much lighter than a welded, I run a 110 HP engine on it and it's 22 foot and I get in excess of 35mph out of it. Much better on gas because it's light. I think it handles better in the ocean. More like a cork, does not bow down in tight swells as much as heavier boats, although the ride is probably a little bumpier. But I'd take the safety of it anytime. Trailering is of course better with a lighter boat. I can take this 22 footer to Lake Chelan and I run an F150 with a 300Ci in line 6, 5 speed. Never a problem. But again, it just depends on what you want to do with the boat. Leak like a sieve, never had any Smokercraft owner tell me that. Some other cheaper riveted boats are just plain bad. But there are bad welded boats too. I just like the versatility and handling of my boat and it's great to fish from too. Very high sides and very safe.

Steve

[wildhairboy]

welded all the way, fished in to many leaky rivited boat in ak as a kid, yet to see one that dont leak in time

[Mooch]

Wow,reviving a topic almost exactly 5 years old.

[garyk]

[delete]

[jfa686]

if they didn't buy it by now...they don't need it

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Let me know when you might be ready, My buddy has a 17' Sea Nymph (riveted) but the Hull although it could use a paint job it is solid and in great shape, 90 hp outboard , interior needs some TLC as it sat in the desert and dried up some of the carpet that covers the alluminum . Trailer is a newer bunk style EZ Loader. He may be selling for around 4500.00 or BO.




MD

[Trick]

Originally Posted by Flyguy

I have a 14 Duro boat that dosn't leak and takes many beatings. The duro joint is seemless and no welds or rivets. I love this boat. Works great in the bays and the Willy. I would highly recommend the Duro Boat.

I know old thread.....that's ok because I don't remember seeing this one before.

Anyways......I've had a duroboat for at least 6 or 7 years now and have kicked the tar out of it. Never a single leak. Used to have a smaller riveted boat.....it leaked.

My other boat is fiberglass....I've had some leaking between the hull and the top piece. Good caulk job stopped that.

[Cast Away]

16' Smokercraft lodge that gets more hours on the Columbia then most. 5 years and dry as a bone. 15' lodge and 15 Alaskan prior to that, and both never leaked. The riveted seams are a lot better then the old days. Friend of mine had a weld crack on a Gregor and it never could be fixed properly. Smokercraft lodge unfortunately is now a welded boat as of the 2009 model year.

[yep]

Old post I know but I got something to say... Riveted boats weigh less, new lodge (welded) weighs 2x more than old riveted.

[Cast Away]

Originally Posted by yep

Old post I know but I got something to say... Riveted boats weigh less, new lodge (welded) weighs 2x more than old riveted.

yep,

You are exactly right. Thats why I said above that unfortunately the 2009 lodge is now welded. The 16' went from 540# to 950#. With a 40hp the current boat jumps up and runs pretty quick even with a full load. The new 2009 would be a slug. Not to mention the coast guard tag on the rivited lodge gives your more capacity then the ne welded model.

[shorthair]

Just a thought but wasn't the Titanic rivited ?

[Silver Hilton]

Originally Posted by shorthair

Just a thought but wasn't the Titanic rivited ?

Yeah, so you better not run into an iceberg in an old smokercraft.

[chromebright]

Rivited boats weigh less because they use much lighter gauge aluminum. Having owned a smoker that leaked SOOO bad I would never buy another riveted boat. Don’t you think there is a reason Smoker switched the lodge to welded?

[Pickles]

When I owned my Starcraft, I spent more time repairing leaking or missing rivets then I did fishing! I am glad to sacrifice the weight savings for the durability of welded heavy gauge aluminum.

[Cast Away]

Originally Posted by chromebright

Rivited boats weigh less because they use much lighter gauge aluminum. Having owned a smoker that leaked SOOO bad I would never buy another riveted boat. Don’t you think there is a reason Smoker switched the lodge to welded?

Chromebright,

Obviously the aluminum is heavier gauge in a welded boat. The lighter gauge that is used in riveted boat can not be welded. I personally am more then happy to have the lighter gauge and go with rivets in exchange for the lighter boat. The new Lodge that is now welded will displace a whole lot more water due to the weight almost doubling. Couple that with the fact that you would need at least a 50hp engine and really probably a 60hp to get it up and moving. You will be severely limited when loading and reaching the maximum capacity tag. Most people would be surprised to learn that the 16' Lodge was rated to carry more than Alumaweld Talon or Stryker(I looked into both plus the North River Revenge before buying the 16' Lodge). It is because it was so much lighter. That is exactly what made it such an exceptional value. A 16' boat with floor boards, bow storage, under seat storage, wide 81" beam, and with only a 40hp you could still get up to about 32mph. As far as leaking, I have had one Valco and three Smokercrafts over the last 12 years and none have leaked.

[Kaptn Ken]

Judy Judy Judy.........WELDED and nothing less!!!

The reason rivited boats are lighter is because they're THINNER walled and a bit on the tinny side. I've owned both but my last 5-6 boats have all been welded. And, yes, I should have kept the FIRST one, for all the money I've spent!!!

That about says it!

When are you going to come down and visit???

Kaptn Ken

[danger]

My good buddy has a rivited smokercraft sled that leaks like a sieve. So I made up a little song to pass the time waiting for the next take down...


" Smokercraft, smokercraft....sink so fast, it will drown your @$$"