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Old 11-20-2009, 06:53 PM   #1
Cap Fred Archer
Steelhead
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 190
Default Hey, halibut hunters!

Like a lot of you, I love those flat critters - fishing for 'em, catching them, eating them, gaffing them, shooting them, darting them, the whole ball of wax. I love all flatfish, including the little guys that I commercial rod and reeled back east that helped me pay for my college edumacation. But the halibuts have always been the kings of the flatties for me, the bigger the better (see the story and picts of my 213# PB in the book and read about my guide, Pink Floyd and how the fish broke his arm because he forgot the .410 and didn't have a gill dart).

Anyhoo, me and over a dozen charter captains, guides, and present and ex-commercial guys got together and wrote a book on halibut fishing, both for the Californias and the Northerns. It's a big book with hundreds of pictures and it has an amazing amount of tips and secrets from the guys in it, much of it not even close to common knowledge.

Here's a little taste. This chapter was written by Matt Goldsworthy, a marine biologist, talented outdoor writer, former halibut/salmon commercial fisherman, and one helluva fisherman in general.

A PARTIAL EXCERPT FROM HALIBUT FISHERMAN’S BIBLE
A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO HALIBUT
Besides their different physical aspects, the biggest difference between the California and Pacific halibut is their predatory behavior. The California halibut species is an ambush predator that seeks out and actually runs down moving targets while it waits hidden in the sand and then explodes out of it after some pretty swift prey. The Pacific halibut is essentially an oceanic garbage truck and feeds more like a bat ray or shark. They are opportunistic scavengers that eat both live and dead prey. Pacific halibut are not nearly as finicky as California halibut.
THE BERING SEA
I spent 56 days observing the catch aboard a large factory trawler that was fishing for flatfish (sole, etc) 24 hours a day in the Bering Sea. I learned quite a bit about Pacific halibut while doing this work. Flatfish trawlers in Alaska must release all halibut caught incidentally. If too many halibut are caught as by-catch, seasons can be shut down early (much like the yellow-eye rockfish does in California). Being that catches of Pacific halibut can close a fishing season early, the Captains are very well versed in how to avoid the halibut.
I was aboard a trawler which processed their catch in a factory below the decks, a giant 200 foot long vessel with over 50 workers onboard. The catch is hauled in, processed, and frozen onboard in the factory. The Captain told me that each time he makes a pass over a given stretch of water, more and more halibut will be caught. This is because of all of the heads and guts being discarded from the factory while the boat is towing the (trawl) net. As the heads and other discards pile up on the bottom of the ocean, more and more halibut invade to feed. So, the factory trawlers must usually abandon areas where they have been catching lots of sole due to halibut invasions.
I confirmed this theory with the data from all of the samples I took each time the net was hauled in. There were more and more halibut caught on each subsequent pass over the same area. Most of the Pacific halibut which ended up in my samples were also coughing up chopped heads which the factory was discarding. After a couple of passes, the Captain would have to move to another area to avoid all of the halibut which were chummed into the area. The lesson to be learned here is that Pacific halibut respond strongly to scent and also will eat anything they can fit into their mouths. These are very important lessons to remember if you want to catch Pacific halibut, including one that has never been written about before that actually involves chumming your trolling or drift lines and even while anchored. More on that later.
THE DESERT
Again, if you are an avid California species halibut fisherman you will need to take yet another difference into consideration. Nice flat, soft, sandy bottoms, especially ones that are adjacent to beaches, rocky reefs, wrecks and other hard bottom or channel edges are the targets for California halibut fishermen, but definitely not for Pacific halibut anglers. In fact, many seasoned Pacific halibut anglers will warn you to avoid the flat, sandy bottoms. As I already note, the Pacific halibut is more of a scavenger, so it should be no surprise they are most commonly hanging out where the most food is likely to be found. The best places to find Pacific halibut if you are in California waters are on the outskirts of reefs, banks, canyon edges, or other abrupt bottom contours with no sand required.
It ain’t Alaska, down south, but in both places, if you want to put in the time and effort to fish miles and miles of flat bottom, eventually you will catch something. Given that northern California is at the southern end of the range of this fish, if you fish there I would recommend focusing on the best habitats, and that is the areas of flat bottom immediately adjacent to significant bottom contour. You need to pay close attention to your charts and the direction of your drift or troll and focus your fishing time in these areas. No matter where you fish, this also probably means you are going to encounter rockfish…which is not a good thing.
ROCKFISH
I consider rockfish my nemesis when targeting Pacific halibut. First of all, depending on which regulatory zone you fish in California, you can only keep rockfish in certain depths. In Northern California, you can only have rockfish onboard if you fish in waters less than 120 feet. In Southern California, you can retain rockfish in deeper waters (out to 180 or 240 feet, I believe). North or down south, know your zone and the regulations; they change regularly. Most likely, when you target Pacific halibut you will be fishing in depths closed to rockfish and you will not be allowed to have rockfish onboard.
Be prepared to have a fish descending device handy to release rockfish below the surface of the water and avoid ‘floaters’. An inverted (weighted) milk crate or an upturned barbless hook can be used to drop a fish with barotraumas (bulging eyes, etc) down deep. This has been proven to reverse the effects of barotraumas on fish… their eyes pop back into their heads from the increase in pressure and they can swim away and be no worse for the trip to the top. To err on the side of caution, do not target Pacific halibut right over the tops of rocky reefs. Not only will you waste tons of timing winding your gear up and down with rockfish or lingcod, but you will also avoid all of the snags and lost gear.
When you fish in waters deeper than 300 feet, you will not want to waste your time hauling rockfish up and down. Each retrieve can take quite a bit of time and effort. You don’t want to waste your time on rockfish so avoid the rocks… just get close to them! Another tactic to prevent rockfish from getting caught on your gear is to use a huge offering. Keep in mind these aren’t California halibut, a huge or gigantic wad of various bait is the perfect offering and will help keep the rockfish by-catch to a minimum… and help keep some bait on your hooks throughout your drift as well. Don’t be afraid to use a large offering, these fish bite off more than they can chew (also the perfect situation for circle hooks)!
THOSE BIG HUMBOLT SQUID FILLETS THAT FRED LOVES
The are very deadly on Pacific halibut too, but in bigger and thicker sizes than we use for the California’s. Cut your strip baits both thicker and longer for the northern fish and you’ll come up with that big, tough (especially if you cure them like Fred advises to do) mouthful that I’m talking about here. And if it’s big enough, only a monster of a lingcod or the big halibut that you are after will be able to get it down. Meantime, it is bound to attract some smaller, squid-loving rockfish and the disturbance and vibrations that they will create madly trying to gnaw on that big strip is bound to call in any big halibut in the area. When he comes, the rock cod go and the only thing remaining is that big squid strip and the big hollow squid that is over it...GOBBLE!

PICTURE OMITTED
Whether you fish it as rigged above, or behind a heavy halibut jig like Captain Fred makes and that I have and use, or inside of a hollow squid, the bigger the squid strip, the better. We also cut them much wider than usual and often replace the smaller hooks with really huge ones to try to keep the rock cod at bay.
Small octopi also make for good, very tough halibut baits that resist the ministrations of the most persistent of the rock cods. They just might be my personal favorite and are the bait that many Alaskan halibut longliners use, again because of their toughness and the fact that halibut love them.
PICTURE OMITTED
Here is a look at Captain Fred’s custom halibut jig. This is an inshore model. This jig comes in several sizes for shallow and deep water fishing, including some really heavy ones featuring hooks so big they’d blow most peoples’ minds! (He doesn’t sell these jigs, he just gives them to the members of our development team.)
PICTURE OMITTED
Here is the same jig with the little assist hook added that Tim already showed you. The big versions are great for keeping squid strips both secure and well up into the lure skirt that helps protect them against nibbles from smaller fish. It can also be used to secure the small octopi that make such excellent halibut baits. This jig is excellent for both Pacific and California halibut.
PICTURE OMITTED
Here is one of the heavy versions of Fred’s halibut jig, complete with a cured Humbolt squid strip attached. He likes the big squid strip, but if I can get them, I prefer a small octopus because they are so tough and like the squid, big halibut love them.
As you can see, this is a huge mouthful for the typical rock cod. Of course, big lingcod will gobble this beast down in a heartbeat, but that’s one by-catch that I don’t mind, if they’re in season and I can keep one or two. Big cow cod are the same, but again, only if the season is open. As far as the little cods are concerned, this big lure and bait is more likely to scare the hell out of them, rather than be something that they’ll want to tangle with.
I remind you, though, that if you’re serious about catching big Pacific’s, it’s best to keep the jigs off of the rocks and alongside of them instead if you can manage that. That will also cut down on snagging and losing lures to the rocks or other debris.
BIG, MONDO, NASTY HOOKS
Why the big, heavy hooks? Fred says, “When I hook a big halibut – and I don’t fish for little ones - the last kind of hook that I want in him is some skinny thing that can either straighten or tear out of the fish’s mouth. As it is with the right circle hooks, once you hook a big ‘but on this style of hook, he will be very, very lucky to get away...(and that’s the way I like it: the halibut needing the luck, not me!)”
“SWEETENING THE SPOT & CATCHING A LOT”
If you think back to the beginning of this chapter you will recall that I mentioned how strongly the Pacific halibuts were attracted to the draggers’ net paths by all of the sole heads and racks that they dump as they drag, catch and process the sole. Well, it just so happens that one of the deepest, darkest secrets of fishing for Pacific halibut is to take advantage of their great olfactory abilities and hunting tools and actually chum them into your fishing area.
Here, fish heads and racks are dropped into an area that either has halibut in it, indicated by catching a keeper sized fish, or that is a prime location for them historically. Heads and racks only, please. You don’t want to chum with the whole fish themselves because just as it is in shark chumming, the object is not to feed them, but just to attract them.
AN OLD HAWAAIAN DEEP CHUM TRICK
In order to place your head and rack chum directly under the boat, or as close to that as possible, an old trick used by some commercial handline and rod and reel fishermen works great. All that is required are some brown paper shopping bags, some bricks or good sized rocks and a handline. First, put a brick or rock in the bottom of one of the shopping bags. Then, load some of the fish heads and racks in it. Then close and tie off the top of the bag with the handline after forcing most of the air out of it, gently place the bag on the down current side of the boat and smoothly let the brick pull it down to the bottom. After the bag hits bottom, give the bag a bit of soak time, then handline a little bit of slack, then jerk hard on it a time or two. You can also use a rod for this.
At this point the bag should break open and your chum will disperse under, or very close to you. Needless to say, if the bag doesn’t break on the first jerk, give it a couple of minutes to soak up more water and then jerk on it again. That’ll do it. One final hint is to slip some anchor line a bit so that you are set up down current from the chum pile. This way any halibut following its scent will encounter your baits first. Mahalo!
FROM SECRETS OF THE WEST COAST PRIVATE BOAT PROS
Part of a seventeen page chapter by Capt.
John King of Aficianado Sportfishing
EXCERPT OMITTED TO SHORTEN EXCERPT
That’s it for this little excerpt from Secrets of the West Coast Pros. I told you that this book was loaded with the kind of inside information that you are simply not going to find anywhere else, didn’t I? I mean, where else have you ever read this kind of logical, experience-laden knowledge? It sure as hell isn’t in any of those “Sport fishing, burger eater, how do you crank iron for barracuda” books, right? Well if that excerpt doesn’t convince you of that (and there are over a dozen more pages in that chapter alone), you are truly a top expert. And you know what? Even if you are, there is still a ton of knowledge in this book that will do nothing but make you even better! Of course, it does cost less than a measly scoop of anchovies or ‘dines, and half of what a skinny scoop of squid will cost you, so it may not be for you. Duh!
OKAY, NOW THAT YOU HAVE FILLETED AND CHOPPED UP YOUR HEADS AND RACKS, LET’S CHUM UP SOME HALI’S
Pacific halibut sharpies usually have the heads and racks of mainly mackerel bagged and stored in their freezers, while others make their chum bait the day that they are fishing. If you catch a bunch of sole, be sure to keep the heads and racks for halibut chumming. Just be sure that it is legal to use them where you fish. Now naturally, you don’t want to be using game fish parts for chum or you’ll run into DFG problems, so resist the temptation to use parts from game fish for this unless you determine that it’s legal. If it is, salmon heads and racks make great chum (don’t ask me how I know that!) Stick with the macs, tom cods and such and use the biggest ones that you can catch. Then, after filleting them, you can use those fillets (with the skin on) in your chum pot along with the ground, frozen shark chum.
ANCHORING
This one is easy for those who have some favorite halibut holes that they like to anchor on and wait them out. Instead of just waiting for the fish to show up, you can really move that schedule along by dropping and broadcasting (up current) some heads and racks and letting their scent call any halibut in the neighborhood into catching range and a feeding mood in what is often no time at all. The halibuts will be attracted by the scent of that chum and the heads and racks traveling with the tide and current. Big halibut will come from far, far away and among them will be fish that you never would have had a shot at if it weren’t for the chum.
CHUM POTS
This is a good time and place to employ the “Chum pots” used by east coast flounder fishermen. These are ˝” mesh, heavy galvanized wire containers with heavy lead bottoms and a “door” at the top. Fill them with frozen ground shark chum or better yet, a tube of it that is a bit smaller than the pot and drop it inside. This will last longer than the fresh stuff and the crabs and smaller junk fish that the chum will attract (and guess what that also attracts) will have a much harder time stealing your chum and while they frantically struggle to do so they will miss some bits and pieces and of course oils that along with those frantic feeding actions of the these other chum fans will also attract halibut from surprisingly long distances away. If the currents are especially strong you might find it necessary to add weight to the pot. When that is the case, add it to the bottom of the pot, not above it.
PICTURE OMITTED
Here are two versions of chum pots. The one on the left is a regular flounder chum pot that is available from some east coast catalog houses and many dealers in the Northeast and even a few in the Northwest. The one on the right is a bigger and heavier, home-made model that is much heavier (that is a far heavier lead plate on the bottom than the one on the smaller pot). It holds bottom better and also holds a lot more frozen chum. If you need to add weight to the smaller pot, just toss in some sinkers.
If you have what Captain Fred calls “a bounce brain” aboard, let him pound the pot occasionally to shake off any crabs that are trying to get at the chum and to break it up a bit so that it kicks out some more scent and small pieces. And yes, the sound of that thumping can attract halibut too, but the chum is much more effective and doesn’t require finding someone willing to, as Fred puts it “pump their little brains out” all day long.

AND DON’T FORGET ABOUT THOSE CRABS!
PICTURE OMITTED
We’re talking northern waters and Pacific halibut here. I have no idea if this would work on California’s or not (it sure would work on the crabs and probably lobsters too, though), but the point here is that other delicious denizen of Nor Cal waters are attracted to the chum. Of course, they are the crabs, which will also come a’runnin’ for that chum scent. First and foremost, there are the famous Dungeness crabs that are so popular here. Check seasonal rules and abide by limits and such, but by all means, pull that pot steadily up once in a while and have a big net standing by to scoop up the Dungeness’ that will be clinging to it. And you can even drop a regulation crab trap or hoop net or two if you’d like. This really works, so be sure to give it a try during crab season. And don’t be surprised if some lobsters join in on the action too! Man, fishing for halibut, crabs and lobsters too at the same time? Yum!
TROLLING AND DRIFTING
Practitioners of this technique really need a GPS chart plotter with a chip of the local bottom contours to do the job exactly right, but nowadays just about anybody can afford a GPS and ideally with a chart plotter too. Failing that, you can definitely get by with just a GPS. Given that ingredient and a good bottom chip for the area, anyone can practice this technique like a pro.
Here, you simply troll or fish likely structure until you catch a Pacific. When you do, you instantly hit the MOB button to mark the spot, then you go back to that exact spot and toss some heads and racks in a small area up-tide of where you caught the fish or even deploy a chum pot. Again, place it a bit up-current from where you caught the fish with a buoy marker attached. Then proceed to drift or troll around it and catch the halibuts as they smell the chum and come in to feed on it. A heavy sash weight is good for anchoring the buoy, which you can then snub up on the line so that there isn’t a lot of it in the water to get snagged up on (leave some slack for a rising tide, of course). As you might imagine, this can result in easy limits, fast! And of course, you can also simply anchor up above where you caught that first fish, add the chum pot if you haven’t already done so, and many times proceed to slay them.
TARGETING CONTOUR
Depending on where you live, there may or may not be good areas to target Pacific halibut within the range of your boat. Review your charts and target canyon edges, banks, rock piles, reefs, or other structure between 100-1,000 feet of water. Again, you don’t want to fish over rocks or rocky bottoms. Target the sand, gravel and mud (the firmer the better) adjacent to contour changes and around those rocks and reefs. These are the best places to find Pacific’s just about anywhere.
All of the Pacific halibut that I have caught recently have been close to abrupt bottom contour. Obviously, determine the direction of your drift or troll (if in shallower water) before you start to fish. Try to set up a drift or trolling line that will maximize your proximity to the structure without going right over the top of it. And if you’re drifting, use your motor to adjust your path so that your bait is adjacent to and not right on the rocks. As Fred and Tim advised earlier, shorten up your lure and leader lengths when you are fishing close to rocks.
There may not be good structure nearby, and if this is the case, you will have to start covering the flats. If you are fishing the mud flats, where life is little and far apart, you should figure out which way the drift is (if you aren’t trolling) and scan for signs of bait suspended above the bottom. Once you locate some bait or other ‘fuzz’ along the bottom with your sonar, set up your drift so that you drift or troll over those areas where you metered a fuzzy bottom or suspended bait.
“THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE” WHEN TROLLING
I’m talking about your trolling direction when you are in the above type of situation. Halibut position themselves facing up-current, so wise trollers set up trolling passes that angle across the current, rather than with or against it. And the sharpest of the sharp will turn up into the current and hang there, or move slowly forward or slide back with it to keep their baits or lures right alongside and in front of the fish and bait spotted on the sonar. Have that spot marked on your GPS and you might just wind up with a pile of big halibut, instead of just one.
This is especially effective when trolling Spiders, which have been designed to pulsate and “work” at very slow or very fast speeds. That pod of squid or fin bait with the straggler trying to catch up is just too much for even a lethargic, non-feeding halibut to resist!
PICTURE OMITTED
Imagine what happens when you hang a squid Spider like this one right among a school of halibut concentrated in a small area on an otherwise barren flat.
PICTURE OMITTED
Or, if there is a lot of fin bait, this pod of them with that hot pink squid with the squid trip on it chasing them just tears halibut up!
Just remember to hover over the area with the fish in it with your motor/motors and keep your bearings and eye on that GPS so that you don’t lose them. It’s a good idea to let the boat slip back some and slide forward a bit and to the left and right in order to present the Spider to as many fish as possible. If sea conditions allow, this is best done “back trolling” in reverse. As the others have told you, the Spiders have been designed and rigged in such a way that they will keep the pod shape even and pulsating like a living school while you are hovering in or moving slowly in current. Sweet!
PICTURE OMITTED
And if there are two of you, don’t forget that big halibut jig. Fish the Spider off of one side of the boat and have your partner drop the jig off of the other side if you are brave (and maybe foolish) enough to go for doubles on big halibut. Cappy Fred makes some 12 ounce models that are great for this kind of deep fishing.
Be sure to fish big fillets or a sizable octopus when you do this to avoid hooking up smaller halibut that could tangle or otherwise cause problems with the other, maybe bigger halibut that you have hooked up on the Spider. What the heck, if you’re going to “take a walk on the wild side” and go for doubles, they might as well both be big fish, right?
GEAR AND TECHNIQUE
I will keep this simple. You want to maximize fishing time. Avoiding tangles is an important component to fishing in deep water. Using a large lead head with plastic tails (glow-in-the-dark or white preferred in deep water) with squid, octopus, or best of all, a big Humbolt strip or tentacle pinned to the hook because it is an easy approach which will not tangle makes complete sense. However, during days with stronger drift or current, you will need to use a lot of weight to hold bottom. On these days you will need to use special techniques to keep your gear from tangling.
I have come to prefer to make dropper loops using stiff, 200 pound monofilament. The stiffness of the heavy monofilament keeps the loop rigid and keeps the leader and hook from spinning and tangling around the main line during the long descent to the bottom. I make 2 dropper loops roughly 4 feet apart, allowing me to fish with 2 offerings from one line without tangles. I learned this from a friend in Oregon (Mark McCulloch), who has caught two halibut at once on several occasions using this rig. Thanks Mark.
LINE
Spectra lines or whatever other braid you prefer are a trolling must. As you have already read here, Captain Fred prefers Dacron line here. The braid will help you hold bottom with less weight and give you the sensitivity you need to feel the bites. Because of those last two factors, how much braid you load your reels with is different than when fishing shallower waters down south. Put more braid on your Pacific halibut reels than the deepest depth you are likely to be fishing so that you maintain those advantages of lighter weights and better sensitivity to bottom and bites.
Pacific halibut are not line shy or wary of gear. I use 200 pound monofilament for my leaders, but almost anything will work (cable, wire, tuna cord, etc). If you target Pacific halibut, there is a chance you could hook a huge fish (50-100-200 – way more? pounds). On that note, word around the docks in Eureka, California has it that some commercial fishermen have encountered Pacific halibut over 200 pounds off the Northern California Coast. So if you’re a southerner, be prepared and use the appropriate tackle to handle a large fish, or pay the price.
LURES AND BAITS
When it comes to gear, the sky is the limit. On days where there is a slow drift, switching to the troll may be a good idea - especially if there are Dungeness crabs around. The crabs will not keep up with moving baits or lures. I would troll with a Spider rigged with glow colored eye teasers, ones with luminescent eyes and a large chase bait with an octopus or big squid strip pinned on the hook under a hollow squid. Maximizing fishing time also includes keeping bait on your hooks and both octopus and the cured Humbolt squid strips are very tough and will stay on the hook far better than the delicate regular sized bait squid that are available frozen or even the live ones from bait receivers. They are a lot cheaper too, to boot. The hollow squids (not the molded ones) that we use prolong bait life substantially.
DEPTH
Depending on where one is fishing, Pacific halibut can be caught in almost any depth, but I believe California anglers should focus on deeper waters. All of the northern California Pacific halibut that I have caught came from waters ranging from 275-350 feet. It is a certainty that they are in waters much deeper as well, especially as one moves further south. Commercial ‘black cod’ (sablefish) trappers along the North Coast encounter halibut in waters deeper than 1,000 feet. When fishing for Pacific halibut throughout most of Central or Southern California and to the north, I would consider 250 feet of water as the minimum. They can be and are found both shallower and deeper to the north.
LET’S REVIEW THE BASIC RULES
  • Use braided line like Spectra and heavy, high capacity reels and stout rods, glass ones preferred.
  • There are good seasons and bad seasons. We are in the midst of an outstanding 2008 season, judging by the catches made in California and up north recently.
  • The beginning of the season is THE time to try. In California (as of 2008), the season opens on May 1. It appears to me that the early portion of the season is when the fish are most available in shallower waters because they spawn during that period. The California state record was caught in May of 2008 (the first month of the season). Fish the opener! Be aware of seasons up north too.
  • Big, ugly wads of bait are okay, and probably better than live bait.
  • Cure your baits to make them tougher and fish them under hollow squid or lure skirts to combat bait stealers.
  • Target bottom contour. Maximize your drift angle and exposure to contour change.
  • Troll when the currents and situation call for it.
  • When trolling, troll fast while still maintaining contact with the bottom, find the bait and slow down or drift and chum and fish it hard.
  • Fish where the fish (and sharks) are. If you drift over an area of sharks, go back over or nearby it. They can be a pain, but both species of halibuts are often with them, feeding on the same bait.
  • It’s ok to stink up the place. Pacific halibut respond to scent (and chum) enthusiastically.
  • Get or make yourself a chum pot, some frozen chum and use it.
  • Have a rockfish descend device onboard. Don’t leave floaters behind. Also a hollow needle for deflating rockfish air bladders.
  • Be prepared to fish deep. Spectra or Dacron are a must. Pacific halibut are caught in very deep water (upwards of 1,000 feet), so don’t be afraid to try the really deep stuff. If there is good contour in deep water and bait in your area, start working it hard!
  • Give yourself an edge. Every Pacific halibut caught aboard my boat for the last 3 years has been caught on baits skirted with glow-in-the-dark skirts or eyes (from 4-inch skirts to 9-inch skirts). Get creative and add something to help attract the fish - they will respond to it.
  • Be persistent. Maybe this should be the #1 rule? You have to be prepared for bad days… the good days will happen. Eventually.
AN GREAT BAIT TRICK FROM THE EAST COAST

END OF EXCERPT
Sorry that I can’t include pictures from the book (there are hundreds of them) or of the book cover here, but I simply can’t go through the complicated (to me) process of setting up a gallery and posting here. If you are interested in ordering this book, please go to www.archersuperbars.com

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Old 11-21-2009, 01:36 PM   #2
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Default Re: Hey, halibut hunters!

WOW good stuff, Thanks
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:16 PM   #3
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Default Re: Hey, halibut hunters!

MR. Archer... Thank You. Many mysteries have be solved.

I genuflect repeatedly in you general direction for many days.
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:19 PM   #4
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Default Re: Hey, halibut hunters!

Good stuff. Thanks for all the tips!! If I remember right we are not allowed to chum for halibut in oregon though.

Luke
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Old 11-21-2009, 05:07 PM   #5
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Default Re: Hey, halibut hunters!

Good stuff!
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:39 PM   #6
Cap Fred Archer
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Default Re: Hey, halibut hunters!

All,

Thank you for the kind words.

Credit for this particular excerpt goes to one of my co-authors, Matt Goldsworthy. There is a lot more info in that chapter, but I had to omit it in the interests of keeping it shorter. The book is loaded with good information, knowledge, and tips, especially the ones from the charter captains, guides, and commercial rod and reelers. These guys were willing to give up their deepest, darkest secrets and I think that's both rare and great.

Sorry about the no chumming in Oregon thing. The book was written for halibut fishing for the two species and covers several state and even international borders and of course, different regulations can and do apply. Please be sure to follow them.

There are many different ways of catching halibut and we endeavored to cover them all and in detail. But some aren't for everybody. One is bounce balling, which has gotten quite popular down south. While it has its fans, there are many who don't consider "fighting" halibut, especially the smaller Californias in the quite shallow water they are often found in, with the fish attached to a couple of pounds of lead. This technique was actually a commercial fishing one at first. It actually started by modifying the salmon fishing that you folks up there did. It works, but seems more like work than sport fishing to many, who prefer other very effective techniques that catch a lot of fish and that they think are a lot more fun...and less expensive.

I apologize to those who don't like long posts. There are some folks who don't like to read books, either. I remind all that these are e-books that allow you to sit back and relax while they read themselves out loud to you and even turn the pages for you as they do. That is one of the key reasons for the skyrocketing popularity of e-books. To me, this feature can be just like attending a seminar given by a large group of experts whenever and wherever you want to. The only thing missing is the drunks that sometimes disrupt live seminars. But as I always say, if you miss that type, all you have to do is invite some rowdy buddies over, ice down some beers, and have at it!

Thanks again for the compliments and good luck with those fatty flatties!
Cap Fred Archer is offline   Reply With Quote
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