Bought a Boatload of trouble from Craigslist (UPDATE WITH PICS)

Jazzmandave · 10-14-2009, 04:40 PM

Well my wife woke me from a weekend afternoon slumber shouting that we had to buy this boat on craigslist. $750, 1972 15' Seaswirl in admittedly mint condition. The 1977 Evinrude 55 hp outboard's lower unit was removed because it was "just serviced".

Due to the new canvas enclosure, the great condition of the interior and apparant great hull condition, along with many accessories, we bought it.

I took it to a well known marine repair shop and got a call today that this lower unit is not the right one for the motor, and it has not been "just serviced". They say it is in good condition but needs a new water pump kit.

They say they have a lower unit for $395 that matches the motor.

will this usually include the prop?

is this a reasonable price for a 37 year old lower unit?

I just am not familiar with all this.

Caveat Emptor indeed, hoping to be out $1500 or less (Including the boat) when all said and done.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts...

I wonder if there is a way to check the hull ID with Washington to see if this thing is even stolen or something...getting paranoid now.

-Dave

Gundog · 10-14-2009, 05:57 PM

I would save all the receipts and take them to small claims court. If you have their number call them and confront them with this info and see what they have to say. If they tell you to bug off I would save all the receipts and take them to small claims court. That is just not right.

Mike

HntnFsh · 10-14-2009, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gundog

I would save all the receipts and take them to small claims court. If you have their number call them and confront them with this info and see what they have to say. If they tell you to bug off I would save all the receipts and take them to small claims court. That is just not right.

Mike

Probably wouldnt o much good unless you have it in writing.Or at least witnesses.But I'm no atty.

ondarvr · 10-15-2009, 10:11 AM

Have you called the previous owner and asked them about it yet?

sgmaiers · 10-15-2009, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gundog

I would save all the receipts and take them to small claims court. If you have their number call them and confront them with this info and see what they have to say. If they tell you to bug off I would save all the receipts and take them to small claims court. That is just not right.

Mike

was it explicitly sold as is?

bird dog bob · 10-15-2009, 02:50 PM

allways remember buyer beware look it over good and dont belive nothing the seller tells ya forget about ******* about it unless you have a WRITTEN agrement you cannot win this one

budnate · 10-15-2009, 03:25 PM

Dave, you still get to see if the motor is even any good......make sure it runs right on the water before buying the lower unit, ask what the shop thinks about that before agreeing to the lower unit.

nikkidog · 10-15-2009, 06:26 PM

You may want to check E-Bay for the lower unit. A buddy of mine was quoted around $300.00 for a used one for his 79 Johnson 9.9 and he picked one up on E-ay of $150.00 which included shipping. Unit looked great and runs fine. Nik

Lead Bouncer · 10-15-2009, 08:55 PM

Makes me wonder why the correct unit was not put on. Either the seller lied or their shop messed up.

either way, your budget is shot. boating isnt cheap.

cubsfan · 10-15-2009, 09:08 PM

Sorry about that, I hate that stuff. The happiest day of a boat owners life are the day he buys a boat, and sells it. I would get other bids on the LU.

Poindexter · 10-17-2009, 07:37 PM

I have always taken used boats to a marine mechanic to get the motors checked out, just my opinion. This is after getting burned just like this several times. Good luck with the repairs.

Duckwheat · 10-17-2009, 08:00 PM

I bet that is the last time you listen to the wife in regards to boats. I have a favorite saying when I do something stupid, Class is in Session.

You are in school buddy.

DW

deepsix · 10-17-2009, 08:15 PM

You might get lucky and find out all you need is the lower unit. Just make sure the engine is good as suggested. You will have a boat in good shape with new canvas for very few boat $$. Then it's all fun after that. Where can you get a boat in decent shape for $1000. Good luck!

Jazzmandave · 10-19-2009, 01:30 PM

Thanks All... It is at sportcraft marina awaiting a part, a pin that is supposed to connect the lower unit to the motor. Then Hell let me know how it works, he said that the reverse linkage or something doesnt work, so I might need to buy a new "control box".

As far as the lower unit, he offered to take the lower unit that came with this boat (the wrong one) on trade for the value of the water pump that goes with the lower unit he offered to sell me. he said was worth around $100 for this water pump. I am surprised that a 30 year old lower unit for $400 wouldnt come with a warking water pump. He also suggested i could try to sell this wrong lower unit on craigslist or something.

thinking about things.

thanks for your opinions!

No Fish · 10-19-2009, 10:22 PM

you bought a good boat and trailer for $750. It sounds like a good deal. I just spent 1500 on a new canvass top. Boating is not free or inexpensive. You will probably put one thousand at least into that 32 year old motor. I would strongly consider due to reliability concerns putting that thousand into a new 50 horse suzuki. I fish with my wife and she would not appreciate engine trouble. If you keep that motor install a very good kicker motor. good luck.

ET · 10-20-2009, 09:11 AM

An old boat, with a new, 100% reliable motor, is a pleasure to own and operate.

An old boat, with an old, questionable motor, is an adventure (in a bad way) every time out.

Unless that mechanic is willing to say, "I'd trust my life on this motor." you may want to consider putting all spare change toward a new motor rather than continuous work on an old motor.

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT!

Or... limit your usage of this boat to your local lake with no current and no obstructions. Have the oars handy so you can paddle in.

Or...cut your losses now and sell it!

Good Luck!

retaliate · 10-20-2009, 09:23 AM

Yep! I agree with ET, & NF, At this point a newer motor might be a better option, however maker sure the Boat is is in good shape first, check the transome for dry rot, this is a typical problem with older Glass Boats with wood in the transome. Good Luck!

tsorrels · 10-22-2009, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazzmandave

Well my wife woke me from a weekend afternoon slumber shouting that we had to buy this boat on craigslist. $750, 1972 15' Seaswirl in admittedly mint condition. The 1977 Evinrude 55 hp outboard's lower unit was removed because it was "just serviced".

Due to the new canvas enclosure, the great condition of the interior and apparant great hull condition, along with many accessories, we bought it.

I took it to a well known marine repair shop and got a call today that this lower unit is not the right one for the motor, and it has not been "just serviced". They say it is in good condition but needs a new water pump kit.

They say they have a lower unit for $395 that matches the motor.

will this usually include the prop?

is this a reasonable price for a 37 year old lower unit?

I just am not familiar with all this.

Caveat Emptor indeed, hoping to be out $1500 or less (Including the boat) when all said and done.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts...

I wonder if there is a way to check the hull ID with Washington to see if this thing is even stolen or something...getting paranoid now.

-Dave

where did you take it ?? wasnt a place that started with a C and ended with a S was it ??

smalldog · 10-22-2009, 11:33 AM

Does the ad state that the lower unit was serviced and that it was for that motor? If so....small claims and make a copy of the ad.

Jazzmandave · 10-22-2009, 12:22 PM

No. Another shop, been in business 30 years. Milwaukee.

Update is that it needs carb work (replace with used carbs). They lowered the boat into the water with the motor down and running, broke the prop they were going to sell me. Then a mechanic took it for a spin, found the revs were too high due to carb flaps sticking or something. It also had a problem starting briefly.

ITs back at the shop again, Im into it $1000, half of it labor other half parts I could give back.

another few hundred for the carbs i figure...

Im not sure about this lower unit he wants to sell me, it's fin is clipped - tip broke off. Is this important and should I ask for a lower price than the $400 he wants?

What a shame. The shop still says it will run strong and they dont hear any knocks, but Im nervous about it and just downright bummed out at myself for not using my head with this purchase.

Hope something good happens.

Meanwhile Im taking my old wood sled with the 1996 Johnson 28 jet on it down to Tillamook for a birthday fishing trip. I'd rather spend the weekend with the old Kingfisher anyway...Im mad at the new boat.

As far as selling the new boat at this point Id rather at least get the motor working well first so I dont pass on the same problem to someone else.

Thanks again for all your good council.

Jazzmandave · 10-22-2009, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smalldog

Does the ad state that the lower unit was serviced and that it was for that motor? If so....small claims and make a copy of the ad.

I have a copy of the ad and yes It does state the lower unit just needs reinstalled because it was "just serviced".

The guy wont return my calls.

At this point Im just hoping its a legitimate sale. I did a couple of searches and it didnt register on stolen lists like boatfax and washington's site.

The title is released (signed) by who he says is his ex wife. Strange that he didnt register it in his name thereafter, but I believe the divorce was recent.

Hoping for the best and kicking myself for being so gullible.

Gundog · 10-22-2009, 02:47 PM

Don't be so hard on yourself Jazzman you are most likely an honest person and expected them to be honest also. Some education is not free. I am glad to hear you don't want to pass the problem on to someone else you sound like the type of person I would like as a friend. Good luck with your new boat.

Mike

willametteriveroutlaw · 10-22-2009, 03:40 PM

I was once told cheap boats are never cheap. Seems to ring true over and over.

honker1 · 10-22-2009, 05:20 PM

Hay Jazzman, don't keep beating yourself up over this. Your better then the flake that sold you the boat and motor. We make mistakes on purchases and have to live with it.
I purchased a '86 Starcraft that had holes in it, and the motor didn't run. How dumb is that? But it forced me to learn about boats and motors on IBOATS.COM and moved on. That would be the one thing I would suggest to you. Is to learn basic knowledge about your motor and boat. If this subject doesn't interest you, then you will be subjected to having your wallet always open. At lease learn enough to get the feeling if someone is scamming you.
Sorry this happen to you, you sound like a decent man.

chefdude · 10-23-2009, 07:39 PM

There are pros and cons both ways. It can actually be fun working to put the boat together. I also bought a boat without a battery. Drove an hour and a half to the fellows house and 5 minutes out he calls and said he sold it to his boss that day. After explaining to him that we had scheduled an appointment first and that it wasn't right, he had us come on in and sold it to us anyway. Found out the motor had the water pump out and had to get that repaired.

My son and I are having the time of our lives looking for $20 fish finders, $25 kicker motor mounts, CABELAS rod holders, pedestal seats and installing this stuff in together.

We have met more good natured Ifish.net people and found out some interesting stories and fishing hints. We went sturgeon fishing yesterday and actually got some bites. My son is so excited to go out again tomorrow because we might actually catch our first sturgeon. He sternly told me today that he would be out all day tomorrow rain or shine, top on the boat or not fishing all day long

Quite frankly, my little $500.00 craigslist boat is paid for. At least we aren't paying $300 a month over 15 years for a $20K boat that will end up costing a total of $54K (if it ever does get paid for). It just depends on how pretty you want to look out on the water. In 15 years we will have 5 other boats which is still more cost effective in the long run. Please don't get me wrong.

If I had the money, I would have a fancy boat again also, but I am finding out that life can be very content without the overkill and stress.

El-Kabong · 10-24-2009, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazzmandave

Well my wife woke me from a weekend afternoon slumber shouting that we had to buy this boat on craigslist. $750, 1972 15' Seaswirl in admittedly mint condition. The 1977 Evinrude 55 hp outboard's lower unit was removed because it was "just serviced".

Due to the new canvas enclosure, the great condition of the interior and apparant great hull condition, along with many accessories, we bought it.

I took it to a well known marine repair shop and got a call today that this lower unit is not the right one for the motor, and it has not been "just serviced". They say it is in good condition but needs a new water pump kit.

They say they have a lower unit for $395 that matches the motor.

will this usually include the prop?

is this a reasonable price for a 37 year old lower unit?

I just am not familiar with all this.

Caveat Emptor indeed, hoping to be out $1500 or less (Including the boat) when all said and done.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts...

I wonder if there is a way to check the hull ID with Washington to see if this thing is even stolen or something...getting paranoid now.

-Dave

Just my 2 cents. The evinrude motor wasn't worth anything to begin with, so don't put a dime into it. check nada guides and sell it ASAP. take any whatever you get for it and buy yourself the most newer (like less then 15 yrs old) motor you can afford, unless you prefer having an old motor that will always be giving you trouble

wilsonriverfisher · 10-24-2009, 08:18 AM

its a 750 dollar boat! problems can be expected and problems will occur when you start looking it over.

Jazzmandave · 10-27-2009, 06:03 PM

Thanks again for all the input. So Ill follow the thread through to the boat running in case anyone else in the market whos also a novice is interested.

THe boat is ready at Sportcraft, Ill pick it up tommorow. They said the launch at milwaukie boat ramp was too low even at high tide to safely lauunch and test their carburator job, but that they ran it 30 times up and down (whatever that means) when it was on the trailer backed into the water.

Ill pick it up and take it to Willamette park tommorow after lunch to see if I can learn by myself about how a steering wheel operated boat works. The guy at Sprtcraft talked about some cleaning process he reccomended for my gas tanks (portable) before I run it, but since the mix is the same as my current boat Ill just use the tank from it.

Ill have to look at the wiring too to see if I can figure out how everything works like the lights and bilge pump, and Ill have to look online to find out about grounding and how I determine if thats taken care of.

Im searching the internet now looking to see if I can find out about this lower unit the marina is selling me for $400, Im concerned about the broken fin, called a "skag", and wonder if the tip is important...I saw them run the boat once, so...I guess it runs with the large chip missing...just wondering if that should make the price significantly lower or what..

Ill take photos of everything tommorow when I pick it up in case anyones still interested.

Cheers,\

Dave

ondarvr · 10-27-2009, 07:05 PM

Skegs get broken off frequently, you normally can't tell any difference when they are. Sometimes they're re-welded and there are also bolt on replacements, but many boaters just leave it broken and forget about it. So it's up to you.

Gundog · 10-28-2009, 07:16 AM

For the skag if you want to fix it Ampro can reweld a piece on it and you will never know it was broken. I don't think they will charge all that much to do it they are in Clackamas give them a call.

Mike

Jazzmandave · 11-02-2009, 02:34 AM

OK so....

I got the boat back from the shop on Friday. Yesterday the weather was nice and we took it to Willamette Park to test drive it.

Unfortunatly the repair job to get the motor running is not complete, as we could not get it to start more than twice, and only briefly.

I wondered if it was because I was starting it incorrectly, over choking it, etc...

You are supposed to raise a lever on the control box, push the key in and turn to the right as your pushing in. I did this without success about 10 times, then it started, but as I lowered the lever over the next minute or so it died as though it was not getting enough fuel.

I tried to start it another 15 times or so, then waited for 5 minutes. Turned the key again and it started, ran it for a few minutes with the lever up, tried to go forward in gear and the motor immediately died again.

I notice that there is oil and gunk all over my boat now, and leaking out of the lower unit...

I hope this oil is from ME trying to start the the motor too often yesterday.. is that possible?

Cheers to all who have lent advice...

Thanks.

-Dave

Don't fish e nuff · 11-02-2009, 03:59 AM

Every motor [ especially the older ones ] starts differently. you just have to find the right sequence to starting it. Sometimes you carbon foul the plugs trying to find that magic sequence and have to change them. My

, if you have to do that, throw the old ones away. Plugs are cheap. As far as your broken skag, unless you water ski and want the perfect wake behind you boat, the only thing you have to worry about is if the skag extends below your prop. If you bump a rock next to shore, it will hit before your prop and might save you from having to get a new prop. Mine has never broke, but has been hit a few times and I just clean it up with a file because we do water ski once in a while. Good luck with the boat and just be cautious with were you take it till you get some hours and confidence built up. ALWAYS head up stream first! Don't ask me how I know.

Smj · 11-02-2009, 07:49 AM

$400.00 for an ancient lower unit? With a broken "SKEG"? (I always thought a skag was one o' them older ladies that hangs around the shipyards hoping to snag a man?) What kind of boat and motor repair facility wouldn't have an aluminum repair welder in shop?

$1200.00!!! What kind of outfit can't be bothered to cross the river on one of Portlands many fine bridges to test DRIVE the boat for that money?
Sportcraft I guess, I knew I was right years ago to refuse to do any further business with the likes of them when the guy was too busy in late January to look for a simple screw for my Honda kicker...Pphhtt!

I would recomend seeing what kind of money you could get back from them and go to Steven's Marine and look at thier used motors. Motors that have been tested, a motor that they would stand behind for a period of time, to make sure the customer was not going to get ripped off. That old boat's a beaut! And you need dependable power for it...

Smj
Mike Johancsik

Sndslgr · 11-02-2009, 08:04 AM

First, for 1200 bucks that thing should purr like a kitten... take it back and be demanding about it, thats bs. (btw, what did they say was done to it for that money?)

Dont ditch the motor yet, its a great motor and very reliable when synched right.

I would guess your engine and controls need to be synched. I have the same motor and control box it sounds like.

*pump prime bulb til firm
*paddle all the way up
*turn key and push in at the same time
*lower paddle about 1/3 for 30 seconds, then another 1/3 for 30 sec. etc

If its cold out or been awhile since it ran sometimes bumping the key in for just a second helps keep it going right at the get go.

I can tell you it sounds like its just out of adjustment, there is alot of linkage between your control box/engine and your engine/carbs that must be right or it just wont work.

My first thought is the carb synch adjustment. On the starboard side of the lower carb, there is a brass wing with a white plastic roller on it and a flat head screw for adjustment. Just behind that you will see a larger silver wing with two scores on it that says "start". This adjustment if very sensitive... for starters, when in neutral with paddle down, the plastic roller just barely touch the silver wing.

Do you have rabbit ears so you can run it in the driveway? Gonna be a long process if you have to go to the river everytime to try something.

Good luck, they are great motors when you get them dialed in.

Sndslgr · 11-02-2009, 08:25 AM

Something was bothering me about your 2nd pic so I went you and looked at mine.

There are 4 water intake flutes, the bottom one has an additional hole that appears to be empty on yours. That is the "pinion bearing set screw" and pretty damn important. Take it back and get away from those goons.

Jazzmandave · 11-02-2009, 10:49 AM

Ill tell ya, there are more awesome poeple on Ifish than in the rest of the world put together.

Thenks so much for tking the time to try to help me...I really appreciate it. I never took mechanics courses, and Ive had a tiller motor on my old boat for 5 years so Ive never learned much about boat motors.

I think the comment about fouling my plugs when I was trying to start it yesterday is probably correct... just wonder how all the gas and oil leaked out everywhere in the water, collecting on the side of my hull and staining it bad...is that common? Too much of it to be from other launchers...must hve come from me starting (or trying to start) the motor..

The $1209 BILL INCLUDES THE $400 for this lower unit, but I did have to give them the incorrect lower unit that came with it as a "trade-in". That one was a little newer and was for a 60 to 70 hp Johnson.

The rest of the bill, ($800) is for various things like rebuilding carbs, linkage, the control box, and labor.

Thnks again all..

Duckwheat · 11-02-2009, 02:10 PM

Get a tourniquet.

DW

smalldog · 11-02-2009, 02:20 PM

The $1209 BILL INCLUDES THE $400 for this lower unit, but I did have to give them the incorrect lower unit that came with it as a "trade-in". That one was a little newer and was for a 60 to 70 hp Johnson.

?????? why would you give them that lower unit? The one they sold you isnt even worth the $400....
You got shafted. (no pun intended)

Jazzmandave · 11-03-2009, 09:41 PM

I was updating this post with factual info. the shop got wind of this thread (I'm not surprised and Im fine with them reading it) and the owner called today sounding upset, understandable considering some of the comments from responders on the thread.

I told him that I thought everything I posted was factual, and that if he would read the whole thread it was not about his shop to begin with...

He reminded me that there was used linkage and a used control box included in the invoce, since they found mine to be damaged and I should have also mentioned these when describing the work.

..ok, I agree, and did not omit that intentionally. I told the owner that I am not so much challenging the bill on this thread, but I was displeased with the boat not starting and vomiting oil and gas all over the place after all this -, and moreover unhappy while reflecting on the boat not having been water tested at the end of the job.

I will give the shop a chance, as I said, to fix the problem and river test it with me, as I believe they should have in the first place.

I trust that this shop, which I have noted earlier in this post has been in business for over 30 years, will complete the job I asked them to do, which was to council me in the repair of this motor and do the work.

I will be pleased when I can update this post again to report on their great service and post some pictures of my new boat working well!

Gundog · 11-03-2009, 10:07 PM

After looking at the picture of the skag you could just use a grinder on it smooth out the leading edge and square off the bottom or profile the bottom rounded. Hit is with some touch up paint and it will look just fine. I know that is not your concern so much right now.

Mike

30pound-tasty-fish · 11-04-2009, 07:39 AM

Hey, that looks like a boat top from Jerry's in Boring.

That alone is worth keeping the boat. You might have troubles with the engine but you wont ever have a problem with the top!

For you guys needing a new top, go see Jerry he is the man.

~30PTF

honker1 · 11-04-2009, 02:03 PM

Did your check bounce? If not, then the shop didn't hold up their end of the bargain. You paid good money to have the motor worked on, and in return you should expect it to be running. If this shop can't produce the results that is expected, then the general public has a right to know. Keep us posted. If they complete the job to your satisfaction, let us know. If they leave you hanging and you need to go elsewhere, let us know that to.

Sndslgr · 11-06-2009, 07:23 PM

Well Jazzman, whats the word? Dont leave us hangin!

Jazzmandave · 11-10-2009, 04:46 PM

Well the clouds broke today and I drove the boat down to the shop to have it looked at.

I am happy to report they were very accomodating, the owner put several guys on it right away

First, they discovered a leak in the recieving gas connection on the motor. This might have contributed to why so much gas was leaking in the water when I launched to test it with my wife last week.

THey also looked at my new fuel line, and discovered one of the connectors was crimped too hard, ( I did that) which certainly wouldnt have helped either with the flow.

I went with a mechanic to sportcraft launch to river test it with a replacement connector they put on.

After launching we found it will not idle properly, and they have it at the shop looking at a carb they suspect of having a minor problem. They are also ordering the pre-shaped hose that connects to the fuel line connector on the motor that was bad. Turns out IT had a leak.

Anyways, I felt they are taking care of me well and that it will turn out for the best.

Thanks again to all, Ill update with a final post with photos of the wife and I with boat running!

-Dave

James in Idaho · 11-12-2009, 10:24 AM

Dave:

Be prepared for more leaky fuel lines, none of yours are ethanol proof. It does eat the old fuel lines, and can cause carb problems. As far as starting, when you push the key in do you hear a click? While it is called a choke, it really isn't, it injects gas directly into the cylinder to pre lube and help with start up. Make sure your starter lever is advancing the timing (there should be a "start" marked on your throttle linkage) to the correct spot. The oil is normal, it wasn't getting burned up but it still has to go thru the exhaust. Every old Evinrude/Johnson does seem to develop it's own starting procedure, you just have to learn to hold your mouth "just so"! My 1980 90 horse is a cold blooded beast (that's getting new fuel lines tonight), but once it's warmed up it's just fine. Those are tough, tough old engines, one of the best designs ever.

When you get it running, look up how to de-carbon the engine with a Sea Foam treatment. Worth the price of a can of Sea Foam. Use 2 stoke "Stable" with every fill up and try to avoid ethanol gas as much as possible.

Jazzmandave · 11-14-2009, 02:45 PM

Thanks for the tips James.

The shop called today and informed me that they cannot get the motor to "come off idle". They are unsure about what to do next, so they are going to make some calls and try to figure out what is wrong. They removed the carburators and put them back in, so they think those are fine. THey suspect perhaps a bad gasket seal (or something)...

They also said what James said, that the black goop around my boat is unburnt fuel that went through the exhaust.

I thought that the lower unit was missing a "set screw", but they say it is located inside the lower unit and not on the outside as I was thinking. They say the hole is a drain hole, not a threaded hole where the "set screw" goes.

All I can do is wait for the next call and hope that this money was not spent in vain.

Live and learn!

Oh well, at least its cocktail hour.

Sndslgr · 11-14-2009, 10:36 PM

The screw we talked about is an exterior screw, these guys are unreal. I will try and get a picture of mine tommorow for you, jeez. Do me a favor, look in the hole, then ask them why that "drain hole" is threaded.

What do you mean "come off idle"? Wont rev up, wont rev down, what? A gasket leak on a 2 stroke will cause a lean condition which would make it rev high, the bigger the leak the higher it will rev but those are simple to test for with a simple leak down test... surely they have done that as it is a very basic initial step in any 2 stroke garage.

Sndslgr · 11-14-2009, 11:00 PM

I couldnt take it, went out and snapped a pic for you.

The 4 vertical holes with the mesh behind them are your cooling water intake holes, the small hole below them is the cooling intake drain, and the one with the philips head to the right is the pinion set screw.

Fishnchips · 11-24-2009, 02:56 AM

That's an EXCELLENT motor (if you can get someone who knows what they are doing to fix it) Those guys seem kinda lost...

It doesn't sound like you got a bad deal, that's about what you would expect to pay for that without a motor.

phamf · 11-24-2009, 09:00 PM

1977 is a little too old for an outboard considering the short life cycle of an outboard.
Parts for them are harder to find.
It might be asking a lot but it might be better to repower with a new outboard or newer-used one. It'll save a lot of headaches in the long run.
You have to make a trade off though, based on how long you think your hull would last.