Water Separator Question

[SOL]

Going to install a water separator since I am having some fuel problems as of late. I have a 115hp Honda and a 9.9hp Honda run on separate fuel tanks. Ideally, I would like to use just one water separator for both motors and maintain separate tanks...

What water separator should I look at, and how small of microns should I go?

Also, how should I install? Tap in just after the fuel tanks?

Thanks for all your help.

[fishkisser]

Install it after your fuel tanks and between your outboard motor
use the same bulb type supply line for your fuel ...
There are models which have dual ports on them for more than one motor to hook up ...
But I believe you can only have one supply line to the filter housing , which means you
would draw off the same tank for both motors
Use anti siphon fittings on both hoses at the filter to prevent back flow from each fuel line ...
Make sure you use coast guard approved marine grade fuel line ...
The micron count will depend on your fuel consumption , 30 micron for V8s and
big outboards 10 microns will work on most mid to small outboards ...

[SOL]

Any particular brand people prefer?

[tallswedeone]

A number of companies such as Mercury and Yamaha offer various systems. Most of these systems are private labeled and built by Racor which is also very popular.

[SOL]

Sounds like I will go with a Racor but what GPH should I get? I only burn about 11gph WOT with the 115. So 30GPH should be more than fine right?

[tomictime]

racor has the best technology and ability to see and drain water off without changing the filter. Ability to see water requires the clear or tinted plastic bowl, which should NOT be installed inside a closed part of the boat - it is intended for exterior (splashwell) applications only. IF you want to mount it inside a transom locker for example, get the UL series for O/B's. a 3228UL would work fine for your needs, it has a metal bowl, you can drain water from.

The new yamaha spin on filters look good but do not allow for drainange or visual inspection, they do cost a bit less than the racors.

[baitsauce]

Be sure to install it so it is possible to change the filter fairly easily. Take a look at this: http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?t=237673

[Bobb-R-Down]

You might need to put a shut off valve on the kicker motor gas line before it goes into the separator or the main will suck gas out of it too... then you might not have any gas for the kicker when you need it or if it does suck the kicker tank dry you might lose prime.

Just a thought, never tried it but i don't think the main cares where it gets it's fuel from if you give it a choice?

[bluehewes]

Originally Posted by Bobb-R-Down

You might need to put a shut off valve on the kicker motor gas line before it goes into the separator or the main will suck gas out of it too... then you might not have any gas for the kicker when you need it or if it does suck the kicker tank dry you might lose prime.

Just a thought, never tried it but i don't think the main cares where it gets it's fuel from if you give it a choice?

It should be fine if he puts a anti siphon valve on it.

Racor is nice but you also pay for it. One day I'll get one it's just on the bottom of my list sine the FWS I have works fine.

Like already said make sure it's in a place that makes it easy to change and always carry a filter wrench and spare filter with you.

[SOL]

Installed and it works great. Bobb-r-down is right, the big motor will drain the kicker tank since it is above the floor and easier to draw from. However, an anti-siphon valve won't cure the problem because it is still in the same direction of fuel flow.

What I have done is hook both motors up to the main tank, and left a quick connect on the kicker tank. Essentially meaning that I have a 3 gallon emergency reserve. I just leave the tank disconnected and both motors draw off the big tank, however I can hook up the kicker thank and both motors can draw off that tank as well.

I couldn't find any regulation or any recommendation that the clear bowls have to be in the splashwell. Racor and everything I have read says that simply the clear bowls are for outboards and the metal bowls are for inboards. So I installed it above the floorboard but underneath the splashwell. Which makes the most sense, why would you expose a WSF to the elements? Especially where sea water/spray is constantly coming in.

Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it!

[fishkisser]

Glad it worked out for you ...

[tomictime]

CE and ABYC, to my knowlege VETUS makes the only filter w clear sight glass for use in engine room (read closed space)...

the issue is something stored or coming loose that can crack the plastic bowl, gas vapor in an inclosed space is a MUCH greater risk than a filter exposed to salt spray///

not my $.02, i dont set the standard, but I follow them...actually, my boat came rigged right by a company that bought and used the books.

Originally Posted by SOL

I couldn't find any regulation or any recommendation that the clear bowls have to be in the splashwell. Racor and everything I have read says that simply the clear bowls are for outboards and the metal bowls are for inboards. So I installed it above the floorboard but underneath the splashwell. Which makes the most sense, why would you expose a WSF to the elements? Especially where sea water/spray is constantly coming in.

Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it!

[SOL]

I don't have an engine room and its not installed in a closed space, there is plenty of ventilation. The splash well underneath is not enclosed by panels. It simply has a drop curtain that buttons to the floor when the splash board is secured in the up position. So plenty of air gets behind, and nothing is going to smack into the WSF.

[tomictime]

good on ya