Yamaha oil and gear lube changes

[fish-on-bend]

I have a Yami 115 and T8. I had all the maintenance done professionally until they were out of warranty in March. I am going to do the motor oil and gear oil changes myself now. I think I know what to do, any tips? I heard to replace the seals on the oil drain plugs, is that important? Anything else? Should I use only Yamaha products or just go to the auto parts store?

[Boster]

Originally Posted by fish-on-bend

I have a Yami 115 and T8. I had all the maintenance done professionally until they were out of warranty in March. I am going to do the motor oil and gear oil changes myself now. I think I know what to do, any tips? I heard to replace the seals on the oil drain plugs, is that important? Anything else? Should I use only Yamaha products or just go to the auto parts store?

This AM I was going to ask how to change the oil in my T8. Amazing that I opened Ifish and I found you. I am in the same boat. Great to hear what our buddies say.
Boster

[trap50]

THe dealer in Coos Bay where I bought my Yamis showed my a 55 gal barrel of Havoline 10/30 they use in their motors. Don't forget the zerks they need grease and the prop shaft.

[Jackson]

Guys
I have been changing the oil and gear lube in my 115 and T8 since I bought them new. Definitely change the seals. On the 115, don't forget the oil filter. Make sure you put a light coat of oil on the bottom of the new filter as this will allow you to remove it easier when you change it next time.

I had the oil filter on the 8 changed at Clemens in Eugene. I later found out this is NOT NECESSARY.

[Mooch]

Originally Posted by Jackson

Guys


I had the oil filter on the 8 changed at Clemens in Eugene. I later found out this is NOT NECESSARY.

Yep,the filter is just a piece of screen that doesn't ever typically need to be replaced.

As far as chaging the oil in the engines,I bought an oil pump that makes it virtually mess free. I run the engine for a few minutes to get the oil warm and shove the oil pick-up tube down the dipstick hole.

Build some pressure on the pump and it sucks all the oil out the dipstick tube. It takes about 5 minutes to pull all the oil out of my F150.

On my F150 I tilt the engine all the way up and put a ziplock back over the filter before I loosen it. The bag keeps all the oil from running into the belly pan.

On the T8 I put the oil pick-up down the oil fill hole.

I use the Moeller brand pump.

http://www.moellermarine.com/afterma...id_extractors/

[bluehewes]

Yes replace the seals and also coat them in oil. I like to use Amsoil for both motor oil and gear oil. When draining the oil the best way to get it all out is tilt the motor then turn it to the side. do that a couple of time and it should be good to go.

also DO NOT ad a full quart of oil to the T8.

While your at it grease everything that needs to be greased. If you have the manual it shows you what needs it. Also doesn't hurt to pull the prop off and grease the prop shaft.

I do both gear and motor twice a year and plugs once. I'm sure I've saved a lot of coin by doing the work myself over the years.

[fish-on-bend]

Well I got it done. A little messy, but I got it done. First time doing it myself on these motors. Good thing the T8 oil filter doesn't need to be replaced because I could not find it anyway. I bought a new one just in case. I drained the motor oil instead of buying a pump since I have the boat under a carport on dirt. A little spill on the dirt and in a pan and while it drains into a jerry can doesn't matter. I probably had 450-500 hours on the little motor since it was last done in October. The big motor gear oil was till pretty clear. 1 1/2 years but only 30 hours. Now I feel a little more comfortable for next time. Thanks for your help.

[bluehewes]

Good job, yeah next time it'll go a lot smother since you know what to expect. And use a lot of rags. Don't wait that long to change the oils again. I do mine twice a year. As far as the T8 oil filter goes I think it only has to be changed every 1000 hours or something. I've never done one before but I'll probably end up doing mine in the future.

Also get one of the Seloc repair manuals they are worth their weight in gold

[Tanker Man]

Also don"t forget to adjust the valves on the T-8. Fairly simple if your have any type of mechanical back round

[bluehewes]

Originally Posted by Tanker Man

Also don"t forget to adjust the valves on the T-8. Fairly simple if your have any type of mechanical back round

Hey tanker man, I'm going to tackle that job when I hit the 1000 hour mark on my T8 I've never done it before. What's the basic procedure of doing it? Do they always need to be adjusted or just the gap checked? I sure it covers it in the SELCO book but I cannot seem to find mine right now.

I'm sure adjusting them is the easy part it's getting to them that might take a little work.