machinist/mechanic?

[RvW]

I have a problem and could use some advice/help from a machinist or mechanic.

I tried to change the thermostat on a toyota 2200 motor and broke a bolt off which seats in the head. I then tried to use an easyout to tap the bolt and it broke too!

What do I do now? Someone suggested I try to drill another hole next to it but Im afraid of damaging the head (not enough room) are there some super strong drill bits out there that will drill an easyout?
Would heating the broken bolt with a torch and then freezing it with freon gas damage the aluminum head?

[ 04-15-2003, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: cirrhosis-of-the-river ]

[Hoosier Daddy]

OUch, I did that once on a water pump. Went through a lot of drill bits getting through the easy out. I recall using a torch for heat and reverse twist drill bits to break it loose. Those things are great. They run backwards, so while they drill they help loosen up the bolt. Sometimes you don't even need the easy out if you use the reverse twist to drill the hole. Try it, otherwise you might have to just pull the head and take it to a machine shop.

[Popeye]

The only thing I can suggest is a carbibe drill or endmill, but unfortunately, it is going to be very difficult :depressed:

[Bait O' Eggs]

drilling a hole in an easy out is almost impossible, I have tried. :depressed:

I broke 4 bolts off in my aluminum outboard head last year, and then broke off an easy out in each of the busted bolts. I should have put in a helicoil before I busted off the easyouts.

I managed to get 1/2 of them out by, putting a nut over the broken bolt, welding the center of the nut solid over the broken bolt essentially building a head on the bolt, with the nut being the new head of the broken bolt. The welding of the nut will provide all the heat you need to probably break the bolt free. Put some cold water on the nut immediately after welding it and the new bolt should come out.

Dont use a nut with a hole any bigger than your busted bolt.

You ask why it only worked on 1/2 of the bolts, I was trying to remove some very little 6mm bolts, and couldnt get enough weld on the top of the bolt because they broke off down the hole a ways. I couldnt get enough weld on top of the broken bolt to get it strong enough to get the bolt out of the head. And after several weldings the aluminum head got so hot it kind of melted and I knew I could never get it to seal so I had to end up buying a new head. But I have had good luck with this procedure on bolts that are a little bit bigger than my tiny outboard bolts that were well corroded in the motor due to salt etc...

Good luck

[SLEDDER]

In the past I have been paid as a machinist. Received my training while in the Navy. My best idea is to get a carbide rod and grind it down to a point, like a steel punch. The easy-out is made of high speed steel or tool steel. It is the same steel drill bits are made of. This is why you can't drill the easy out. You need a harder steel such as carbide. Use the carbide punch to shatter the easy out. Then use a magnet to ensure all peices of easy out are out before drilling again. I have used this procedure more times than I care to think about. Call if you need assistance. 654-1223 Scott

[crabbait]

I did the exact same thing a couple years ago. Thought i was toast. This worked like a dream:

Get a sharp punch. Put it right alongside the broken easyout in the broken bolt and tap it into the softer bolt metal. The easyout will be forced up and out of the hole because it will not make room for the punch as the punch starts to fill the hole the easyout is sitting in.

Bet it works slick for you. Then drill the bolt out some more being careful to stay in the bolt and off the threaded head. As soon as you get close enough to a side somewhere that you hit threads, tap the broken bolt side into the hollow middle and collapse the broken bolt into its own middle. A little breakfree and you will be able to rotate it out.

Touch up the threads if you need to and you are done!

Like CB said, only grind the punch like a cape chisel. If the bolt is sticking out you can put a nut over it and have a good welder TIG weld the nut to the bolt and easy ( ) out. Then turn the bolt out.

[Rod Holder]

Try to bust up the broken easyout like mentioned above then drill a hole through the bolt. Heat the bolt and get it red hot. Quench the hot, broken bolt with wax (a chunk of the spouse's nice scented candle will work, just whittle off a piece, I dare ya). Let the mess cool, when the bolt cools, it will shrink, drilling the hole through the bolt not only relaxes the bolt but also gives it a places to shrink + it enables you to heat the whole bolt quickly without much heat transfer to the head. The wax will wick in between the bolt threads. I've removed stuck, broken bolts with my fingers using this method. If all else fails remove the head and take it down to your local machine shop (time to have those valves done anyway)they either have the equipment, or know where to send it where the offensive bolt will be ultrasonically vibrated out. Hey don't laugh, it's true, cost me about $20 last time I sent in a head with a broken bolt.
good luck, enjoy and remember, throwing tools doesn't help

[Rod Holder]

Oh, don't keep drilling once you're through the bolt and end up drilling into the head, and don't get the bolt so hot that it starts melting.
I think they use rap music to vibrate the bolt out :smile:

[RvW]

Some good advice here, thanks folks, Ill keep it all in mind.

[1pump]

Like Rod Holder said, heat transfer to the head (if you use a torch) should be avoided, especially with aluminum.
And be careful if you use a punch. Aluminum cracks easily.
Not to kick you when you're down, but throw those #@$%^ easy-outs away. They're far more trouble than they're worth. A left-hand drill bit can usually do the job, especially in conjuction with an Alden extractor. Those things are slick!

[Snapset]

All good advice, and I am sure you can find a solution here. One other thing that has worked for me on frozen bolts is to soak them with 2-Cycle oil. It is the best lube I have ever used for freeing up a steel to aluminum lockup like you have. Like BOE said, if you can get a nut close enough to the shank to weld it, your problem is solved.

[crabbait]

So, is it out?