King Trailer brake/bearing problems

RiverMan · 06-28-2009, 02:24 PM

I have a King Trailer with hydraulic brakes. The trailer is about 5 years old.
On one side of my trailer the brake pads are rubbing on the drum which causes it to heat up so much that the bearing grease comes out and then I have problems with the bearing.

I have taken it apart, adjusted the spring as far as it will go and the pads still aren't sitting right. The plunger on the brake cyclinder is at an angle and obviously isn't right. I can move the brakes and get the plunger lined up but the whole set-up is just so cheap and cheezy that I know it's a matter of time before it will fail again.

Has anyone figured out a way to correct this problem short of buying a new trailer?

thx.

RM

bluehewes · 06-28-2009, 11:35 PM

Have the brakes been replaced in the last 5 years? Sounds like you need brakes all the way around.

I just did mine and it was the springs and what not that failed the pads still had plenty of meat on them.

The best way to do it is buy all new backing plates and everything. They come all pre assembled. I bought from Champion trailers online. They use all stainless steel hardware and galvanized backing plates and shoes. I did both axles for 265 including shipping.

Do that repack your bearings and get new seals make sure you adjust properly. The whole job only takes about 5 hours then it'll be like new.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RiverMan

I have a King Trailer with hydraulic brakes. The trailer is about 5 years old.
On one side of my trailer the brake pads are rubbing on the drum which causes it to heat up so much that the bearing grease comes out and then I have problems with the bearing.

I have taken it apart, adjusted the spring as far as it will go and the pads still aren't sitting right. The plunger on the brake cyclinder is at an angle and obviously isn't right. I can move the brakes and get the plunger lined up but the whole set-up is just so cheap and cheezy that I know it's a matter of time before it will fail again.

Has anyone figured out a way to correct this problem short of buying a new trailer?

thx.

RM

tallswedeone · 06-29-2009, 07:57 PM

Your problem is coming from the brake actuator which is probably worn, start by replacing that and then your brakes that our worn. I agree with the aspect of replacing the entire backing plate since a couple of bad parts in the assembly will cause problems. This may cost a few bucks but it will be much better than stranded on the side of the road.

RiverMan · 07-02-2009, 02:19 PM

Today I took off the wheel and took some pictures of the brake and cyclinder so you can see what I am talking about. Note the gap at the top where the right shoe isn't tight against the pivot bolt. I adjusted the bottom of the shoes out so that they would come together at the top against the pivot but then it was too tight on the hub and I couldn't get it back together. The only way the hub will go on is if the shoes are adjusted as tight as they will go on the bottom.

The other thing I am worried about is the angle of the plunger on the cylinder.........is this ok? The angle seems severe to me.

RM

tallswedeone · 07-03-2009, 02:50 PM

It appears that the wheel cyclinder is the issue. The new backing plate I just looked at has no where near the plunger externsion or angle. When you manually pump the brakes (this can generally be easily done by inserting a trailer ball on a truck stinger and pushing down) does the wheel cyliner plunger move? My guess is that the wheel cylinder is siezed in place. Typically I replace the entire backing plate rather than messing with trying to salvage parts of the backing plate. These can be optained at autowheel or six robbles.

I would still look at the actuator. Is the fluid good and not full of rusty water? Does it activate the brakes manually as I mentioned above?

I hope this helps.

easydoesit86 · 07-03-2009, 08:28 PM

It looks like your wheel clyinder is pushed all the way out, can you push the rod back in? You may have to loosen the bleeder valve to let the fluid flow out. The brake aculator has a check valve in it so the fluid will not flow back into the reservior.

RiverMan · 07-03-2009, 09:46 PM

I hear what you guys are saying..............I haven't tried pushing on the cylinder. I don't know where the bleeder valve is but will look for it in my trailer owner's manual. Tomorrow I will see if I can get the plunger to work correctly.

As I recall, I have had the cylinder off before and it all looked fine. I have never changed the fluid in the reservoir and have no idea if it is rusty or not. I have checked the fluid level many times and it is always full.

If I can back the pressure off the cylinder and get the plunger to retract, will it want to stick again the next time I use my brakes?

If I can't get it to work I will buy a whole new backing plate. You guys are great! I think you are exactly right, the plunger is stuck!

Thank you!

RM

bluehewes · 07-03-2009, 10:34 PM

I would not even fuss with it and just replace the whole thing. If you try and replace each part it will end up being more then just buying the backing plate and all. http://www.championtrailers.com/DRUM...20CLUSTERS.htm

Your bleeder valve is on the backside of the backing plate it should have a little rubber boot over it.

If you get everything working ok this is how to readjust the brakes.
with your brake shoes all the way adjusted IN put the hub back on. At the bottom of the backing plate there's two rubber grommets remove them and you'll see the star brake adjuster. Use a screw driver or go to the local auto parts store and get a break adjusting tool. Tighten it up until you cannot spin the hub by hand then back it off about 7-9 clicks. Your brakes should now be adjusted. you want a little drag, but not a lot just barley hear the shoes dragging.

UncleRichie · 07-03-2009, 11:22 PM

Hi,
In the pictures is the front of the boat trailer to the right? If it isen't then you have the shoes reversed .In the picture it looks like the shoes should be reversed ( look at the notch for the wheel cylinder rod ,it would seem to fit better if reversed ) as a rule of thumb the small brake shoe is always in front.
The master cylinder has a valve in it that holds some preasure on the cylinders it will clog up. You can clean it some by running some fluid through it . Try bleeding the brakes some and check the fluid in the resivor is the fluid clean ? if it is rusty then you need to replace the fluid if not the resivor .
Hope this helps
( P.S. you haven't lived to you have changed bearings on the boat trailer half way between Richland and Baker in 105 degree heat)

Richard

RiverMan · 07-04-2009, 08:02 AM

Yes, the brakes in the photo are on the right side of the trailer.

Thanks for the help guys...........very much appreciated. I will work on the cylinder this wknd and see what happens.

RM

mike carlson · 07-04-2009, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RiverMan

I have a King Trailer with hydraulic brakes. The trailer is about 5 years old.
On one side of my trailer the brake pads are rubbing on the drum which causes it to heat up so much that the bearing grease comes out and then I have problems with the bearing.

I have taken it apart, adjusted the spring as far as it will go and the pads still aren't sitting right. The plunger on the brake cyclinder is at an angle and obviously isn't right. I can move the brakes and get the plunger lined up but the whole set-up is just so cheap and cheezy that I know it's a matter of time before it will fail again.

Has anyone figured out a way to correct this problem short of buying a new trailer?

thx.

RM

i have a 8 year old easy loader was essayer to replace the whole backing plate Assembly if one is giving you trouble just replace the one four bolts adjust and you are done mike

Okie · 07-04-2009, 10:34 AM

After fighting brake problems for many years like you describe, I bit the dust and converted every thing to DISC BRAKES. The best decision I have ever made.

Good Luck

bluehewes · 07-04-2009, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Okie

After fighting brake problems for many years like you describe, I bit the dust and converted every thing to DISC BRAKES. The best decision I have ever made.

Good Luck

I thought about doing mine but after I was finished I was thinking there's no way I can get 600 plus more dollars worth of stopping power.

I might think about it next time around I'm sure you are right there's a lot less parts to them so less maintenance. How long do you get out of a set of pads and rotors? and do you ever have to rebuild the calipers? It seems like the calipers would be prone to locking up always being dunked in water.

RiverMan · 07-04-2009, 03:40 PM

Okie,

I thought about it Okie but after checking on the price of the conversion at $600 I decided to keep fighting the drum brakes for now.

Mike,

I may do that but going to give the repair one shot tomorrow morning.

thx.

RM

RiverMan · 07-05-2009, 11:29 AM

My friend and I worked on the boat this morning and tallswede (and others) was exactly right........the plunger was frozen. We tried to free it but the insides are completely rusted. I am ordering a new bolt-on cluster.

Thanks again everyone!

RM

RiverMan · 07-16-2009, 08:49 PM

For anyone that might be thinking about buying brakes from champion I would recommend them. My friend and I bolted on the new brake clusters from Champion this evening, bled the brake lines, and everything is working better than new. I think the price of the brakes was very fair and they are of much higher quality than the original brakes that came on the trailer.

RM