I got a pair of used Cannon unitroll HS downriggers with a 10lb weight, two 6 lb weights and two 5lb weights along with a few offshore releases, miscellaneous junk and 2 Scotty rod holders for fathers day. It was a pretty good E-bay find and got the whole mess for under 250 clams including shipping.
Let me just say I post this not to show off my skills because I have none. I cant weld 2 pieces of iron together much less aluminum. I worked a stint for a framing contractor but never built cabinets and my woodworking tools are as limited as my cabinetry skills--im no Alan Mikkelson and I am fully aware of it.
I post this because it may help someone who has a boat sporting 1 1/2" square rails figure out how to mount thier downriggers on a budget. If only I knew someone who could fabricate with aluminum and not charge a dozen C-notes...
So I really wanted to have my riggers swivel mounted. Its no fun pulling into a dock with a downrigger boom knocking little kids in the head. Its a good idea to have them in line with the boat instead of perpendicular. Problem is swivel mounts are expensive. Cannon swivel mounts are 70 to 80 bucks...EACH! And thats for the cheap lexan models that are prone to breaking without notice or provocation. The stainless steel models are 90 to 100. Truly rediculous considering what I paid for the DR's. So this little bracket manufactured by custom weld solved the dilema for $35.00 each:
The cannon locking base that came with the DR's is installed. I put down a layer of 20 mil pipe wrap to help cushion and insulate before I bolted the bases on.
Here it is installed in the operating position:
Now the cool thing. For 1/2 the price of a swivel mount I can take it off the side rail and slap it on the back rail. There is already a hole in the middle rail where the seats used to be. I will drill a hole in the left tab of the DR bracket and pin it with a spring clip to hold it secure while traveling. If I want to use it straight out the back I just move it to the back rail in operating position. 2 seconds and BAM! fishing out the back.
Now with the mounting issue solved I needed a "workstation" of sorts. As mentioned before I cant weld to save my life so my option was to go with wood. 4 coats of UV protected Spar Polyurethane ought to help keep it decent for awhile:
Bottom:
Top:
The white cup holder lookin thing is actually a DR ball holder. Its not cool to have your balls swinging around and slamming the boat while you are working on the rigging:
It doubles as a beverage holder. One thing everyone who fishes on the barge says "ya need cup holders back here":
The eyebolt will help retain the DR termination clip.
Ready to go! I installed the scotty rodholders on the side there for stacking purposes. Last weekend when I stacked 2 rods I had to use the forward rod holder that is welded to the rail...too far away. The scotties are mounted in a perfect spot for stacking now.
Turned in traveling position:
I will be getting some things from holdzit to mount gadgets to one of the 2x6's that hangs inside the rail. The other side will get scent holders. Also to be added are a hook to each one for a convienient place to hang the electro steer controller.
Next on the agenda will be making some sort of DR ball/accessory holder for the portside seatbox. Dont want my extra balls knocking around under the seat.
Poormans downrigger install
IDFishrite
. Downrigger fishing is a blast .I had the same issue with a Smokercraft and paid a visit to my local fire engine builder for help.They bent up some aluminum plate for me and I drilled and installed them.
or you drive off hit a bump and it departs the boat
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