Poor factory paint job

[Sore Back]

My 2001 Lodge series Smokercraft is loosing it's paint. Maroon was the color of choice that year. As mine, I see many with that color loosing their paint.

Any experts out there with a suggestion as what metal primer and paint to use which will stay on longer.

Thank's :whazzup:

Give Smokercraft a call.

[FishinMission]

If you paint it yourself...get a good quality self etching primer, otherwise your paint won't stick to aluminum.

Mark

[CATCH AND EAT]

Mark is right about self etching primer. Most likely the problems you have experienced are a direct result of not etching the aluminium with a cleaner and then using a selft etching primer. As Keta mentioned I would go right over to smokercraft to see what they have to offer you. You spent the money to purchase the boat but the paid does not stick. Seems there should be some kind of warranty there even if it is pro-rated a little for wear and tear.

[DanS]

If aluminum is acid-etched and conversion coated with Alodine or equivalent, a self-etching primer isn't necessary. If the aluminum isn't acid-etched and Alodined, you will get very poor adhesion without a self-etching primer.

Once the primer is on and has had time to harden, lightly scuff sand for tooth adhesion, wipe with prep-wipe and a tack cloth and apply a hight-quality polyurethane. Keep in mind that epoxy primers and polyurethanes should be applied only if you have access to a supplied-air respirator. The catalysts they use are cyanide-based and the paint molecules are too small to be safe using an organic filter mask.

IMO, unless you have the proper equipment to prep the boat, and spray the materials without pickling yourself, you should have it done professionally. I believe C&E is in the business.....maybe he could give you a recommendation.

Poor prep work is the cause of most paint-job failures. But it's a lot of work to do it right, so that your boat's finish will look good for years.

[Amahnee]

Jeez, I thought you might have been talking about my FISHCRAFT driftboat.

[Amahnee]

Actually that's not fair! It's a great boat and I am 93.75% satisfied with it. The trailer I have a problem with.

[Water Ready]

Is the Primer still on the boat or is it coming off with the paint?

DAN!!!!

Alodine is a secret :grin:

[HOGTIDE]

I am always impressed with the collective knowledge base on this site! You guys know the stuff on painting aluminum! Whoa!!
In the past I have followed incredible technical discussions on welding, graphite structure, electrolysis, battery components, fish biology, government regulations....it goes on and on.

You should be proud of yourselves and your contributions!

[FishinMission]

Hog...Aint we special??

Mark

[starcrafttom]

I have a paint question. my old 1970 starcraft needs to be repainted. the old paint is not peeling off but it is getting thin and has been rubbed off in many places. now do i have to strip all the paint off and if so how.whats the fastes and cheapes way. is sanding my only choice or are there safe chemicals to use on aluminium. after that i have read above what to paint it with. if i am doing it out side how warm does it have to be.

Epoxy is more temperature and humidity sensitive than polyurethane paint. Go to a paint store and talk to the pros about stripper and paint.

[HOGTIDE]

Yup! Hey Mark...you should out running around in a newly painted SeaHawk about now! Flat bottom to an 18 degree...you'll wonder where the waves went :smile:

[CATCH AND EAT]

Keta is right. BTW take some smelling salts with ya when you pay the materials bill.

You asked a question regarding your old paint needing repaint work. Unless it has checked or is not adhering to the surface you most likely will not need to strip it down. Feather out the old areas, prime and sand the bare area and then follow the proper proceedures for top coating.

Dan S. nice lesson on proceedure and chemicals. Especially coming from mutt and kitty country. :grin:

[Sore Back]

Thanks for all the input to my question. I think I will contact Smokercraft as advised. Also, to answer another question, I don't see primer. It appears to be top coated only.

Thanks again to all you folks. Your all the greatest.

Sore Back

[FINZ]

If you do use Alodine handle it carefully. It is Chrome. A heavy metal that is very hazardous to yourself and the environment. Don't let go down the storm drains. It will kill fish.

[DanS]

Good point, FINZ. Alodine is a chromic acid solution which contains chromium, a toxic heavy-metal. It should not be used without proper skin protection and you should not dispose of it anywhere it could enter waterways. This is the thing about alumiprep chemicals, primers, and urethanes that makes them difficult to use safely as an individual.

METHYL CHLORIDE MSDS

[RogueFisher]

I would first call the dealer where the boat was purchased. Sometimes they may have better access to the appropriate person at the manufacturer. If this fails get in touch with SmokerCraft.
The guy to speak with at the plant in Oregon is Jim. I can't remember his last name but I'm almost positive they'll take care of you.
Keep in mind these fixes don't happen overnight.
Be patient and friendly with them and I'll bet they take care of you.
:grin:

[fishinpoor]

i'm impressed at the amount of ifishers that actually know how to prep and paint aluminum,most people think primer is primer,as the owner of a custom boat painting business i see guys short cutting all the time,great advice guys [img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img] KETA,alodine was supposed to be a secret

Hey, I totally forgot we have a professional boat painter on the board. Kick my butt Fishnpoor! I'll call you tomorrow.

[DanS]

If you need to stip an epoxy primer or urethane paint, a methyl chloride stripper with ammonia is your best choice. I use a stripper by Kleen Strip called "Aircraft Remover" at work and it's a very effective stripper. Methyl chloride is highly regulated in regards to having it shipped, so you'll probably have to find it locally.

Once again, it's nasty stuff and health precautions should be taken.

[Uglygreen]

Ive always done a acid etching, freshwater rinse, dry time, and then used aircraft grade zinc chromate primer which (as I understand it) is supposed to bond to and prevent the corrosion of aluminum. Followed by whatever top coat you want. How does that compare to the process above?

The Zinc Chromate primer doesnt seem to cost a lot and goes down pretty easy.

UG

[DanS]

The method recommended in the aircraft industry for finishing aluminum is acid etch, alodine (conversion coating), primer, and paint.

Zinc chromate primer is corrosion-inhibiting, but is not nearly as tough and long-lasting as an epoxy primer. Strontium chromate is an even better corrsion inhibitor, but it is very difficult to get your hands on because it is a known carcinogen.

Most aircraft painters now use epoxy primers because of their durability. If the aluminum is properly prepared, zinc chromate won't be necessary to prevent corrosion.

Dan,
What do you think about epoxy polimide (sp?) primer?

[DanS]

Don't know too much about it Keta......they use it on the heavy aircraft, but I haven't seen it used in general aviation. It's supposed to be a very tough chemically-resistant primer, with good corrosion-inhibiting properties.

You can check out some info here: http://www.21st-century-coatings-can...159typeIII.pdf

I use it but wanted to see what you thought. I have been pleased with the results.
Have you ever used Wasser moisture cure polyurethane pant? We used it on the AMHS structures in SE Alaska and it worked extremely well around saltwater. When I was buying it it ran a bit over $100 per ga. but was well worth it. We could apply it at any temperature above freezing and in the rain.

[ 02-26-2004, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: Keta ]