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How to: Make Bearing Buddies better……
I know this is the “Boat and Motor Tech” forum and this isn’t really a boat and motor thread, but I think out of all the forums here on ifish it probably fits this one best. Maybe it will even get into the “Tech Tips and Keepers” Hall of Fame!!
After loosing more than one day fishing due to wheel bearings, I have given it much thought and have come up with a cost effective and so far, perfect solution. To that end, I’ve been asked how I made the Bearing Buddies I have installed on my boat trailer “better”. In order to make ifish a little better I promised to make a post in the near future, so here it is.
The background: 21ft Weldcraft with a Merc 175 SJ, and a Merc 9.9 Bigfoot kicker. Sitting on a single 3500# torsion flex style axel King trailer. Many trips from Eugene to the northern Oregon coast, Central and eastern Oregon, and even Idaho.
Some axels are machined in such a way so they have a zirk fitting in the center of the outside end. Grease is pumped through the center of the axel so it comes out between the bearings, thereby forcing grease to both (bearings). The dust caps on these types of axels are just that DUST CAPS, in my opinion not suited for marine applications. The caps have open centers with a rubber cap that can be easily removed to service the center axel zerk. This type does not keep the grease under any kind of pressure like Bearing Buddies do. However, with Bearing Buddies the only way to get to the center axel zerk would be to pop them off. If that’s the case, then why even have the dambed things?
Again, the idea behind Bearing Buddies is good. They work by keeping the grease under a little spring pressure. The instructions on servicing them say to give them just enough grease so they just start to move and compress the spring. However, the problem is when they are serviced the "new" grease has no way of getting to the inside bearing and race.
Now the solution…….
I had these in my toolbox:
Very carefully drill the hub just in front of the inside bearing race. Then tap it to accept a zerk. In this case ¼” NF. Very thoroughly cleanse with kerosene. Brake cleaner will also work well. Or better yet, when the wife is gone, run it through the dishwasher. Don't laugh.....it works. But if you do run it through the dishwasher hit it hard with WD-40 just before the dry cycle and while its still hot to prevent rust from starting. Especially on the bearing races. Just be sure it is very clean as metal shavings will tear up bearings in no time no matter how well they are lubricated.
If you look hard you can see the zerk in the hub between the “spokes” in this photo:
To make servicing even easier I stole a little of my daughter’s (red) nail polish and dabbed a bit on the ends of the lug studs on either side of the newly installed zerk fitting as this photo shows:
A little of what mechanics call gorilla snot (or more appropriately called “Aviation Form A Gasket”) on the mating surfaces of Bearing Buddies and the hubs helps seal things up.
By looking closely you can see a little of the gorilla snot that I didn't get wiped up before it hardened. (Other wheel/hub):
Once reassembled simply take your grease gun and fill up the hub. But just enough to move the Bearing Buddies, and compressing the springs. Remember the grease slings around the inside of the hub at highway speeds and the spring needs to have plenty of room to compress. Otherwise either you'll loose a Bearing Buddy or an inside grease seal.
I make it a habit to check the hubs often. In fact I try to check them every time I stop, and since installing these zerks I haven’t had any problems. I find myself adding grease probably more often than I need to. But I’m a firm believer that it is impossible to give a bearing to much lubrication.
Have fun!!
baitsauce
How to: The Perfect Wheel Bearing Solution For Boat Trailers
Re: How to: The Perfect Wheel Bearing Solution For Boat Trailers
Re: How to: The Perfect Wheel Bearing Solution For Boat Trailers
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