Which oils to use for Yamaha's?

Imperial Bull · 02-02-2009, 08:50 AM

I just bought a used sled with a 115 Yamaha 2-stoke and a brand new T-8 and was looking for some recommendations on which oils to use. Which oil should I use on the 115 for the oil injection to the gas, Yamalube, Quicksilver, other? The Yamalube is a semi-synthetic. I'm not sure what is in the boat now, so does it matter if the two different oils mix? Also, is the brand of engine oil critical? I assume 10W-30 is best for both. I want to get as much life out of the motors as possible.

Thanks for any input. Jason

danger · 02-02-2009, 11:49 AM

I asked that same question of lots of folks and never came up with a definative answer. But in my experience with a very similar outfit to what you have.....

In the T-8 I would definately run the Yamalube 4stroke engine oil. You don't use enough of it during the year to make a difference, maybe chaning the oil twice. Those motor work hard, sometimes all day long so they should get the best wear protection possible. Don't forget to do the lower unit lube also.

In the 115, the regular merc 2 stroke oil is great. It is fine by the manufacturer and is relatively inexpensive. The Yamalube 2 stroke oil is a little less smoky but you won't notice any performance increase. Run some "sea foam" or "ring free" through the gas tank a few times a year to keep the carbon down in the big motor and you are set. Remeber to change the plugs and the fuel water seperator every year (January for me.) That v4 Yamaha 115 is a great runner and super durable.

Dan

Starfish · 02-02-2009, 11:50 AM

I normally ran Yamalube when I had a 115 Yamaha and it was flawless. I did briefly try skimping and using off-brand oils and quickly switched back due to fouling/carbon.

I run Quicksilver in my Merc now but would probably still use Yamalube if I had a Yamaha 2-stroke.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imperial Bull

I assume 10W-30 is best for both. I want to get as much life out of the motors as possible.
Thanks for any input. Jason

I've never worried about brand for the crankcase oil. Just follow the owner's manual for weight of oil, so 10W-30 is fine. Of course that's specific to the kicker, there's no crankcase oil in the 115 2-stroke.

RGB · 02-02-2009, 05:57 PM

Yamalube with a Ringfree chaser.

tomictime · 02-02-2009, 06:26 PM

Evinrude synthetic 4 stroke oil tested as way better oil than yami 4M for your T-8 by powerboat reports. It is about $10 a quart.
Amazing they can spec good oil and build and sell Fichts, but I guess that is a different story.
I run the rude oil in my T-8 with several thousand hours on it

Jason S · 02-02-2009, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomictime

Evinrude synthetic 4 stroke oil tested as way better oil than yami 4M for your T-8 by powerboat reports. It is about $10 a quart.
Amazing they can spec good oil and build and sell Fichts, but I guess that is a different story.
I run the rude oil in my T-8 with several thousand hours on it

Has anyone tried switching grades of oil in there big motor?

Have a good buddy who works for Ford. He was telling me that the truck line recently went to 5W30 and noticed an increase in power and milage. With no noticable increase in engine wear. Granted boat and turkc motors operate differently with one being sustained RPM's and the other a heavy duty cycle of alternating RPM's. I would think the truck cycle might could be a harder life though.

On a side note I run Castrol Sytec Sythetic 10W-30. Same price as the Dino based Yamalube and just personally I am a huge fan of synthetic.

Since the switch to Sythetic at 200 hours I notice the oil comes out looking a whole lot better. Matter of fact hard to tell by looking it is used. Yamalube changes at 10, 100 hours both came out really dark. This is on my F150, T-8 I still run Yamalube, all 0.87 quarts of it.

Mooch · 02-02-2009, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason S

Has anyone tried switching grades of oil in there big motor?

Have a good buddy who works for Ford. He was telling me that the truck line recently went to 5W30 and noticed an increase in power and milage. With no noticable increase in engine wear. Granted boat and turkc motors operate differently with one being sustained RPM's and the other a heavy duty cycle of alternating RPM's. I would think the truck cycle might could be a harder life though.

On a side note I run Havoline Sytex Sythetic 10W-30. Same price as the Dino based Yamalube and just personally I am a huge fan of synthetic.

Since the switch to Sythetic at 200 hours I notice the oil comes out looking a whole lot better. Matter of fact hard to tell by looking it is used. Yamalube changes at 10, 100 hours both came out really dark. This is on my F150, T-8 I still run Yamalube, all 0.87 quarts of it.

You don't want oil to come out looking the same way it did when it went in. Oil is a cleaner as well as a lubricant. Thats why there are detergents in it.

I'd be leary of an oil's cleaning properties if it was coming out looking like it was new.

Havoline isn't really a synthetic either. Its a highly refined group III dino oil. If you want a true synthetic (group IV) you need Mobil 1,Amsoil,Redline,Royal Purple,or Shaeffers full synthetic. There are other group IV oils on the market,but the oils I just listed are generally easy to find.

It doesn't make much sense to me to pay a premium for synthetic,when its not really synthetic.

Jason S · 02-02-2009, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mooch

You don't want oil to come out looking the same way it did when it went in. Oil is a cleaner as well as a lubricant. Thats why there are detergents in it.

I'd be leary of an oil's cleaning properties if it was coming out looking like it was new.

Havoline isn't really a synthetic either. Its a highly refined group III dino oil. If you want a true synthetic (group IV) you need Mobil 1,Amsoil,Redline,Royal Purple,or Shaeffers full synthetic. There are other group IV oils on the market,but the oils I just listed are generally easy to find.

It doesn't make much sense to me to pay a premium for synthetic,when its not really synthetic.

I would agree with you on the oil out aspect. But my Yamalube granted it was the first 200 hours of the engines life used to come out blacker than the oil out of my diesel truck.

Syntec I believe and got to go look again I thought was grade 4. The blend is thier grade 3. But I get it mostely for free is the reason I run it. I can get all the Castrol stuff at under cost.

Got the oil name wrong at the begining sorry.

Mooch · 02-03-2009, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason S

I would agree with you on the oil out aspect. But my Yamalube granted it was the first 200 hours of the engines life used to come out blacker than the oil out of my diesel truck.

Syntec I believe and got to go look again I thought was grade 4. The blend is thier grade 3. But I get it mostely for free is the reason I run it. I can get all the Castrol stuff at under cost.

Got the oil name wrong at the begining sorry.

Syntec is a group III. They were the ones that won the lawsuit with Mobil 1 and earned the right to call their group III oil synthetic.

Its not bad stuff,just not worth the premium paid for a synthetic when its not really a synthetic. Getting it for free is another story,heck I'd run it too if I got it for free.