Auxiliary fuel tank connection question

I would still put an inline ball valve with the QD's.

[blubeast]

Not sure I follow you Keta about the ball valve...the Mercury type connectors have a ball valve built in. Would this work or were you thinking of something else?

[Threemuch]

Dale,
My aux fuel is plumbed through a threeway fuel valve, which was about $40. That runs to a hose which connects the aux fuel tank through a typical OMC fuel connector. Works great.

I have a couple 12 gallon tanks you can use.
KB

[Mark Mc]

Unless you an industrial "non-spill" quick disconnect (such as those made by Swage-lock) you will still have some small amount of fuel spill each time you disconnect. So I would agree with Keta, and plumb it so you only have one quick-disconnect connection. You can do this with a single 3-way ball valve, or a "tee" with two ball valves. Then just add the one quick-disconnect fitting.

You might think you can get away with just one ball valve to isolate the main tank. But if you start sucking air through the quick disconnect you could lose the prime. So spend the extra few bucks for the second one.

Bluebeast,
One is a "Ball Check Valve" and one is a "Shut Off Valve". The 3 way ball valve would work better than the inline that I sugested.

[Mark Mc]

Aaahhh, the nomenclature game.

1) Simple check valve, an inline fitting with a very small ball & spring, to make sure the fluid only flows one direction. Also listed in certain marine catalogs as "anti siphon valve".

2) Ball valve, has a handle to twist the ball open & closed, is just an on-off valve. (before it's hooked up) when you open it, you can look right through & see daylight. Can't see through a check valve though. Unless you lose your ball. Then you're a unic.

[blubeast]

Thanks for all the info... that's why I asked... and got lots of great help.

thanks again.

[blubeast]

I was planning to use an above deck aux fuel tank for long runs this summer. Use it for the trips out, then disconnect and store for trolling and run back to port.

Originally planned to hook it up by installing a dual tank switch... but then had an idea... wanted input from you other Dogs before I execute this project. Since only one tank will be permanently connected, do I really need the switch?

Would it work to merely cut the main fuel line and install tank type quick connectors on both ends? That way I could use the fuel hose with the pressure bulb to connect the extra tank, and merely unplug it when done and connect the original fuel lines with the same type connectors. Would this work?

It's on an OMC 4.3l i/o...thought there may be some fuel flow restriction if this typs of connector were used.

How do the rest of you connect your aux fuel tanks?

Tanks for your input.

[Spoiled Daddy]

Mark Mc,

You wouldn't necessarily be a unic if you lost just one of your ball valves. You would however if you lost your tee that has two balls in the valve... :grin:

SD (OK OK OK I know Jen. I will stop now...

[Fishplay]

Dale,

When I set my sled up for long range I used the 3 way tank valve your talking about.

I routed the spare tank line out of the bilge and added the quick connect under the gunnel.

Raising the dog house to switch the valve is a small inconvenience for saftey. This method eliminates any spillage in the bilge.

[Pilar]

Don't forget to open the isolation valve before you jam down the channel.

Blubeast, I need to do the same thing is a more permanent fashion. Right now I just switch hoses on the fitting and spill some fuel doing it most times. A brass quick disconnect at the spare tank and fuel manifold with isolation ball valves or a 3 way ball valve would be the cadillac way to go.

When you want to forget about the spare tank, just leave the hose on the kicker or in the garage with the spare tank. The unused aux fitting would be isolated behind the valve so no air leaks would cause you problems. On TUNA! days you connect the spare hose and isolate the main tank. When that goes dry just switch the valves (s) and stow the empty aux tank and hose.