Installing a Miller Marine Anchor nest

bullshooter · 01-18-2009, 12:42 PM

I am installing a Miller Marine anchor nest on my 21ft Seahawk. I was wondering if anyone has any close-up photos of their anchor nests installed. It appears that there needs to be a spacer between the anchor nest and the mounting surface. Just wondering what y'all come up with. Here is the dilemma I have run into.

HOGTIDE · 01-18-2009, 06:48 PM

I believe you can buy an 1/8" thick slab of rubber that will act as a shim between your anchor bracket and your bow.It is designed for the EZ pull anchor nest but you can make it work on yours. I believe they are available at Joes,FMS & Bobs for some dumb price like $10 for a small fitted piece. Seems you could find some similar material for much cheaper, if you could figure out a source. I gave up and bought their pre-cut piece.Wait til you buy your $25 worth of fasteners for that thing

Captain Kirk · 01-19-2009, 07:15 AM

Cut a piece of UHMW and put it in there. It is light weight and tough.

Gundog · 01-19-2009, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullshooter

I am installing a Miller Marine anchor nest on my 21ft Seahawk. I was wondering if anyone has any close-up photos of their anchor nests installed. It appears that there needs to be a spacer between the anchor nest and the mounting surface. Just wondering what y'all come up with. Here is the dilemma I have run into.

Hi Bullshooter,
Thank you for the purchase of your Anchor Locker. I have some die cut 1/4" rubber gaskets or 1/4" aluminum backing plates made for that exact reason. The pieces can be ordered from me or purchased @ Fisherman's Marine & Outdoor.

The rubber gasket is the easiest to use it is cut to fit the bottom of the Anchor Locker with the holes already located to match the Anchor Locker and can be trimmed to fit your boat with a utility knife. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks Mike

Raining_Kings · 01-19-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gundog

Hi Bullshooter,
Thank you for the purchase of your Anchor Locker. I have some die cut 1/4" rubber gaskets or 1/4" aluminum backing plates made for that exact reason. The pieces can be ordered from me or purchased @ Fisherman's Marine & Outdoor.

The rubber gasket is the easiest to use it is cut to fit the bottom of the Anchor Locker with the holes already located to match the Anchor Locker and can be trimmed to fit your boat with a utility knife. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks Mike

Bought the 1/4" rubber at Fishermans when I got my Anchor Locker and raises it up just enough to clear that lip on my NR Seahawk.

BIGCSS · 01-19-2009, 11:36 PM

Why do so many people mount the Miller Marine anchor nest so far over the bow? I have had 3 boats that I have had a Big Water on 1 and my own design on the other 2 and they just barely stick out past the bow. There is plenty of clearance for the tines (but you do need to test fit it with the anchor before drilling mounting holes) and there is less leverage on the bolts securing it to the bow when pulling anchor, when it doesn't stick out so far. As far as anchor nests you can buy at a store the Miller Marine is definitely the best and if it had been available when I got the Big Water nest (it was right when they came out that I got it), I would have gotten it instead. Anyhow I am just curious why so many people I see have it sticking out so far off the bow.

Gundog · 01-20-2009, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGCSS

Why do so many people mount the Miller Marine anchor nest so far over the bow? I have had 3 boats that I have had a Big Water on 1 and my own design on the other 2 and they just barely stick out past the bow. There is plenty of clearance for the tines (but you do need to test fit it with the anchor before drilling mounting holes) and there is less leverage on the bolts securing it to the bow when pulling anchor, when it doesn't stick out so far. As far as anchor nests you can buy at a store the Miller Marine is definitely the best and if it had been available when I got the Big Water nest (it was right when they came out that I got it), I would have gotten it instead. Anyhow I am just curious why so many people I see have it sticking out so far off the bow.

When I am asked how far out to mount the Anchor Locker I tell people to mock it up with the anchor they will be using. Let the anchor hang down a few chain links below the roller, turn the anchor where the tines are closest to the boat and give it a little swing, you want the anchor to not contact the boat hull. Different boats have different bow entry angles where the bow sweeps back so the distance will be different depending on your boat. The motto for the Anchor Locker is �No more dinged up boat or sore back�

You also need to look at any obstruction under the bow where the Anchor Locker needs to bolt that may need to be worked around. On my personal boat I have a bin in the bow and I mounted mine out over the front further so the anchor shaft did not obstruct the bin from opening.

As far as leverage and bending the bracket that has never been an issue that I am aware of. I warranty my Anchor Locker for the life of the original purchaser and have never had one warranty claim.

I have the �� rubber pads available as well as a �� Al backing plates for boats with thinner material to mount to and also for fiberglass boats. I recommend using both the Al backing plate and the rubber gasket for fiberglass boats to protect the fiberglass hull. The rubber pad also makes a good connection between diamond plate and the bottom of the Anchor Locker. Ultimately it is the installer who must insure the structure of the boat will support an Anchor Locker.

Mike

BIGCSS · 01-20-2009, 09:14 AM

I wasn't referring to bending the anchor nest, but actually breaking the bolts or tearing out the metal where the bolts go through. The only reason I had asked is because I know some people that have actually ripped anchor nests off of their boats pulling the anchor in the past.

mtpar · 01-29-2009, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGCSS

Why do so many people mount the Miller Marine anchor nest so far over the bow? I have had 3 boats that I have had a Big Water on 1 and my own design on the other 2 and they just barely stick out past the bow. There is plenty of clearance for the tines (but you do need to test fit it with the anchor before drilling mounting holes) and there is less leverage on the bolts securing it to the bow when pulling anchor, when it doesn't stick out so far. As far as anchor nests you can buy at a store the Miller Marine is definitely the best and if it had been available when I got the Big Water nest (it was right when they came out that I got it), I would have gotten it instead. Anyhow I am just curious why so many people I see have it sticking out so far off the bow.

Mine had pre drilled holes!

RiverJohn · 01-30-2009, 08:51 AM

For what its worth..

I did not use the rubber spacer & the slight gap has not caused any troubles. Its is very tight and secure with SS bolts. Wouldnt hurt to use it though.

I enjoy the Miller anchor product every outing good job Gundog !

Jedcraft · 01-30-2009, 09:24 AM

I agree with Riverjohn. Mine has a slight gap and no harm done. I would also caution as to not try to mount it too far out over the snout as it's a B&%^$ to get the bolts in and tight on the two front holes.

Matt J · 01-30-2009, 09:54 AM

I would have to cut an access hatch in order to bolt it to my boat. Can you use self tapping screws or something similar?

AlseaAssassin · 01-30-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa9857

I would have to cut an access hatch in order to bolt it to my boat. Can you use self tapping screws or something similar?

I didn't do my homework and ran into the same problem since I have floatation foam sprayed under my bow deck prohibiting me from reaching the bottom of the bolts. I'm currently in the process of removing the foam with a claw hammer and alot of elbow grease. Talk about a pain in the rear end but I can't wait until I'm done! I'm sure my fishing buddies backs will thank me as well!

Gundog · 01-30-2009, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa9857

I would have to cut an access hatch in order to bolt it to my boat. Can you use self tapping screws or something similar?

I would not recomend using self tapping screws to mount the Anchor Locker. I have one model designed to be welded on or you could look into using thread zerts. Here is a link to the thread zerts or rivet nuts. These can be purchased at Park Rose hardware in Portland or Vancouver or other fastener outlet they are available in aluminum.

Mike

Salty Walty · 01-30-2009, 09:41 PM

Mike,

Thanks for your continued and persistent personal follow up.

It is great to see that you are so committed to your product and spending time here to answer and address peoples questions.

Matt J · 01-31-2009, 08:12 AM

You obviously know your product better than anybody, what would you do? Weld it or rivet nut? Will you have any of the weldable models at the Sportsman show?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gundog

I would not recomend using self tapping screws to mount the Anchor Locker. I have one model designed to be welded on or you could look into using thread zerts. Here is a link to the thread zerts or rivet nuts. These can be purchased at Park Rose hardware in Portland or Vancouver or other fastener outlet they are available in aluminum.

Mike

IDWITHELD · 01-31-2009, 08:31 AM

Not a great picture....but you get the point.
I live in the city. Notice the lock on the chain. Also, I welded the clasp on the chain. The bolts that hold the nest on the bow are under the anchor- for security reasons. I highly recommend when ever possible a backing plate. I could not get to mine as I have a bow fish well. But, I carefully drilled and tapped the bow. The drill was undersized to ensure greater thread over-lap. I never pull my anchor from nest (with a puller)- there is just no reason to do that. I too have a small irregular gap between the nest and bow- that's from the diamond plate. However, I can assure you that nest is securely on there. I used a small amount of marine RTV to dam around the bolts on the underside of the nest to ensure no water leaks. I have had mine on for 2+ years and have had zero issues.

AlseaAssassin · 01-31-2009, 09:53 AM

Installing a lock, now that's a great idea!! Thanks for the tip!

Gundog · 01-31-2009, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa9857

You obviously know your product better than anybody, what would you do? Weld it or rivet nut? Will you have any of the weldable models at the Sportsman show?

I would recomend welding it and yes I will have 2 weld on Anchor Lockers at the show. We will have them all on sale for $199 again this year.

Thanks Mike

AndreD · 02-06-2009, 04:03 PM

I have a Custom Weld and have been thinking about adding one of these instead of the rope guide" they screwed on. At the point of the boat, CW welded an extra thick plate probably about 4x6", and I am not sure how thick the rest of the deck material is.
I am not sure how I would mount, I know the trolling motor bolts were way up there and with the slant of the hull, pretty short screws were used in the front holes. So, if I wanted a welded on version, I assume that would the surrounding paint would be toast? If I bolted it on , I assume the existing plate (4x6") would be too small and I would have to place additional bolts toward the end. I could drill and tap into the thick plate, but don't think I could on the thinner deck. Would those rivet nuts work in the decking? What size bolts do you recommend using?

RiverJohn · 02-06-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IDWITHELD

Not a great picture....but you get the point.
I live in the city. Notice the lock on the chain. Also, I welded the clasp on the chain. The bolts that hold the nest on the bow are under the anchor- for security reasons. I highly recommend when ever possible a backing plate. I could not get to mine as I have a bow fish well. But, I carefully drilled and tapped the bow. The drill was undersized to ensure greater thread over-lap. I never pull my anchor from nest (with a puller)- there is just no reason to do that. I too have a small irregular gap between the nest and bow- that's from the diamond plate. However, I can assure you that nest is securely on there. I used a small amount of marine RTV to dam around the bolts on the underside of the nest to ensure no water leaks. I have had mine on for 2+ years and have had zero issues.

That is a great idea !!

IDWITHELD · 02-06-2009, 05:18 PM

I put my nest on a Custom Weld. No issues found. Consult the factory if unsure. See pics above.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndreD

I have a Custom Weld and have been thinking about adding one of these instead of the rope guide" they screwed on. At the point of the boat, CW welded an extra thick plate probably about 4x6", and I am not sure how thick the rest of the deck material is.
I am not sure how I would mount, I know the trolling motor bolts were way up there and with the slant of the hull, pretty short screws were used in the front holes. So, if I wanted a welded on version, I assume that would the surrounding paint would be toast? If I bolted it on , I assume the existing plate (4x6") would be too small and I would have to place additional bolts toward the end. I could drill and tap into the thick plate, but don't think I could on the thinner deck. Would those rivet nuts work in the decking? What size bolts do you recommend using?

AndreD · 02-06-2009, 06:56 PM

can u tell me a little more how you mounted yours, like the size of bolts? I have the Cobra and was thinking of adding an additional backing plate underneath as well to beefen it up.

Gundog · 02-06-2009, 09:24 PM

Hi Andred,
If you have a thick pad that measures 4x6 that will work fine you can drill and tap it to mount the Anchor Locker. Most decks are only .190 or thinner and that is not enough material when tapping aluminum but with the .250 or thicker pad welded on top it will give you enough thread contact to hold just fine. The Anchor Locker bolt patern only requires 5.5" to mount, the bolts are spaced 4.5" from front to back. If you have any other questions let me know. If you come to the Sportman's show look me up and I will try and help.
Thanks Mike

Mako · 02-08-2009, 03:40 PM

Man I was at the show and totally spaced picking one of these up. Can you ship to Mcminnville with one of the rubber spacers?

Gundog · 02-08-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mako

Man I was at the show and totally spaced picking one of these up. Can you ship to Mcminnville with one of the rubber spacers?

Yes I do ship give us a call.
Thanks Mike
360-896-0481

Mako · 02-12-2009, 07:51 PM

Hey Mike, Thanks for getting back to me. Looking forward to mounting that bad boy on. Take care.

goldens · 02-15-2009, 11:09 PM

For mounting I would only use through SS Bolts with a backer plate or welded (welding may also need more material added to the deck distribute the stress and accomodate the weld).

Rivets, or inserts without backer plate(s) is asking for trouble - you have to DISTRIBUTE the forces under the fasteners across a larger area than these fasteners alone will provide.

Taping threads in ALUMINUM, even 0.250" thick, is also a recipie for a disaster down the road. ALUMINUM is just not hard enough material to take the tension forces (actually shear forces across the thread faces)...but now I'm getting too technical...sorry.