do your broadheads and field points impact the same spot on target?

[spottedhawk36]

i hear guys saying they can get the broadheads to hit the same spot as there field points, i have never tinkered with it enough to find out but i mainly shoot broadheads and they fly like darts and hit where i want them too thats what my bow is set up for is broadheads, i can shoot a field point and it hits close but not the same spot as my broadheads do. i would imagine that some fixed blade broadheads will fly almost like broadheads but i have never found one between sattelite, thunderheads or innerlocks that fly just like my field points always alittle off. what is your two cents on this?

[bo4elk]

My field tips shoot the same as my broadheads (muzzys). Over the past years I've gone through a few compounds, my current bow (a Matthews) is the only bow that I've had that shoots both tips the same. I suspect it is more related to the arrow and the tips I'm using (which I've changed over the years), the other bows shot just as consistently, just not the same using the differing tips.

[BrianMaguire]

No, I even have to align my broadhead blades in relation to the fletchings the same to have them all hit the same spot. I hae a Martin bow, but for the life on me, believe me I have tried I can't tune the bow to make this happen.

[spottedhawk36]

i think its tough to get your bow to shoot both field points and broadheads and have them hit the same exact spot you can get fairly close though.

[chromebright]

My last two bows (Mathews) I have never made one adjustment when switching from field tips to broadheads. They are spot on out to 60 yards. I attribute it to my local dealer having my bow tuned perfect as much as anything. Just got another new Mathews, but have not shot broadheads yet. Hoping it is the same.

[hill shooter]

If you paper tune your your bow to make as small of hole as possible, then move your rest and nock point by a very very small increments you can make your broadheads and field points to hit in the same place

[RogueFishr]

My bow will shoot both in the same spot (shooting a Mathews). I think the broadhead has something to do with it. You need to get the right arrow weight, broadhead, and FOC. Some bows seem to be more forgiving that others (note the Mathews guys that are hitting the same spot.....)

RF

[kigercreek]

No. In fact, due to that, I haven't shot a field point in a bow for probably 15 years of so. And yes, I go through a lot of targets/cores!

[Dave Smith]

I think it takes the right combination of a well-tuned bow, the right broadheads, maybe fletch alignment, and maybe individual arrow testing to get them both to hit in the exact same spot. I have had to do all four of those to get it done and it is nice when it's working.
Last season, I really wanted to have confidence in my broadhead-tipped arrows when I went hunting, so I shot 16 or so arrows with broadheads several times and kept a good log and narrowed it down to 3 or 4 that were spot-on, with others that were dang close. I shot all four of those "A-list" arrows at deer and they all flew perfect. The season before (my first season), I didn't have that much confidence in my arrow flight and that was a sick feeling.
There is alot to be said for shooting broadheads only, though..................

[spottedhawk36]

i pretty much only shoot broadheads anymore even when practicing thats what my rest, sights ect are tuned to i have great arrow flight so im not real concerned if my field points arent impacting the same spot.

[Crayfin]

Originally Posted by hill shooter

If you paper tune your your bow to make as small of hole as possible, then move your rest and nock point by a very very small increments you can make your broadheads and field points to hit in the same place

That is EXACTLY correct!!

[OR_Bo_Huntr]

If they dont, you isnt in tune, and youre shooting the wrong broadhead

[elkmagnet]

Yes, mine group the same out to 60 yards. If they don't - as others have said - something is out of tune.

[smock1123]

My broadheads and field points fly exactly the same. but it took me a few years to get it dialed in. but with any bow you can achive this. first thing is that you probably wont be able to achive this if you shoot fingers. second the shorter the broadhead the better. muzzys are good but the muzzy mx3 is better. it is a little shorter but still has an 1 1/8"th cutting dia. also I shoot a 4in feather. lots of people switched to the blazer vane when it came out, but i personly dont like them they made my broadheads and field points fly way different. A few of my buddies tried them and said the same thing. Alot also has to do how your bow is tuned. Put a square on it, also a another must is an arrow square. it makes sure your rest isnt left or right. Just tinker around and try lots of stuff. different combos work for different shooting styles, have to find the one that works for you.

[VBsteelheader]

do you use the muzzy three or four blade? I have had a really hard time getting my three blades to fly anywhere close to my field points. I have even tuned the rest and paper tuned my bow over and over. Everything looks good, but my field points always fly high and to the left compared to by broadheads. Just wondering if the four blades are better.

[Eagleclaw]

i have't shot them out of my new bow but last year my field points and broadheads hit the same spot. but i've shot other bows that the broadhead would hit low to the left.

[BrianMaguire]

Originally Posted by VBsteelheader

do you use the muzzy three or four blade? I have had a really hard time getting my three blades to fly anywhere close to my field points. I have even tuned the rest and paper tuned my bow over and over. Everything looks good, but my field points always fly high and to the left compared to by broadheads. Just wondering if the four blades are better.

I ahave also noticed with Muzzys that unless you have the broadheads exacly the same in relation to the alignment of your vanes they will shoot all over the place.

no, i shoot a hoyt, use shuttle t locks. at 20 yds by broadheads were perfect in hight but inch and a half right. i made the adjustment and i was then dead on with the rest of my pins.

[oregonoutdoors]

Mine hit in the exact same spot. Thats what a Mathews bow, easton axis arrows, and RM Ironheads will get you. I am scared to change setups as I remember what a pain it was when my broadheads and fieldpoints didn't fly the same. I have taken shots at 8 animals and killed 7 of them with this setup so why change?

[KingSlew]

How vanes are indexed has no relation to POI or broadhead flight with the exception of contact with the rest or riser.

An arrow tipped with a field point is steered from the back, but when you use a broadhead, it will steer from the front, unless it spins true. Larger fletching will help control it, but perfect alignment is a better way.

Manufacturers, as part of the sales pitch, will advertise that their broadheads "fly like a field point," but head alignment (spin test) correct arrow shaft spine, rest tuning, bow tune and form errors are all inter-related parts that influence flight and POI; there is no way that a specific broadhead choice will mitigate it. What all who make the claim have in common is a low vented blade profile. The ultimate example is the expandable.

Recurve/longbow and compound finger shooters are forced to learn how to manage these details because of "archer's paradox," that causes the arrow to flex horizontally. Bow windows that are cut past centershot, release aids and fall away rests, largely eliminate horizontal flexing. For a right handed shooter, an arrow that impacts to the left is spined too stiff and one that hits to the right is too weak.

If, we are using a modern compound bow and arrows with spine correctly matched to the bow and broadheads that spin true, then it is a simple matter to adjust nocking point height and arrow rest windage adjustment and have broadheads and field points impacting the same hole. If not, the first thing to check is the broadhead alignment with a spin test. If the head spins true, it means that the trouble lies elsewhere, rest adjustment and nocking point height for starters and of course using arrows whose spine is correctly matched to the bow.

As forgiving as modern compound bows have become, it is possible to use arrows that are too weak or borderline weak. It can go unnoticed until you put the broadheads on and then that’s when the problems start. Again, it should be a quick and easy matter to tune the bow. If not, it means that something isn’t quite right.

It’s not uncommon at all for Pro shop staff not to understand the underlying principles that govern arrow flight. They just do "monkey see monkey do," i.e., paper test to bullet hole tear and use the smallest profile broadhead, or whatever the current rage is. Industries have been built upon the common lack of this knowledge, you could even go so far as to say, through the exploitation of the lack of this knowledge. Wheelie guys shouldn’t feel alone in this matter, the truth is, most of the Trad guys don’t know it either, they just put big 5 ½” feathers on and call it good.

To sum up: It should be a simple matter to have BH and FP impact same POI.

1. Spin test.
2. Correct arrow spine.
3. Nocking point height adjustment (paper test)
4. Arrow rest windage adjustment (paper test)
5. Fine tuning (BH-FP adjust to same POI)

[nakoa]

i shoot muzzy practice broadheads all the time , but i will find out in the morning if they shoot the same. are you going to kutch tomorrow spottedhawk?

[micah]

If your bow's tuned properly they should shoot the same.

[VBsteelheader]

Bill, tell me how they shoot. Are you shooting the Mx3 or the Mx4?

[micah]

Originally Posted by VBsteelheader

do you use the muzzy three or four blade? I have had a really hard time getting my three blades to fly anywhere close to my field points. I have even tuned the rest and paper tuned my bow over and over. Everything looks good, but my field points always fly high and to the left compared to by broadheads. Just wondering if the four blades are better.

I've used both and had decent luck with the 3 blades, they flew about an inch or two low. I just adjusted my sight and they were hitting where I aimed. The 4's on the other hand i had horrible time getting them to fly, they were all over the place. I won't shoot those again and wouldn't recommend them. I shoot Shuttle-T's and have had great results on how they fly.

[spottedhawk36]

Originally Posted by nakoa

i shoot muzzy practice broadheads all the time , but i will find out in the morning if they shoot the same. are you going to kutch tomorrow spottedhawk?

nope wont be at kutch tomorrow.

[VBsteelheader]

Micah, thank you for the information. I have been thinking about trying new broadheads, and now I just might.

[Dave Smith]

Guys, tell me if I'm wrong here: Broadheads and field points hitting the same really doesn't matter one bit. Ofcourse it's convenient and you can feel good about your bow being perfectly tuned, yada, yada.
All that matters is that your arrows hit in the SAME place every time, right? If you shot broadheads all the time (and you're a hunter), and your bow was out of tune by some mini micro adjustment that caused the arrows to hit 1 1/2 inches right at 30 yards, how would you know that??????? (in other words: compared to what?) If they hit in that spot every time (all else being equal), I would say your sights are off! he he.
Disclosure: the preceeding ramblings are from a guy who just picked up a bow two years ago-lol
Dave

[smock1123]

Originally Posted by VBsteelheader

do you use the muzzy three or four blade? I have had a really hard time getting my three blades to fly anywhere close to my field points. I have even tuned the rest and paper tuned my bow over and over. Everything looks good, but my field points always fly high and to the left compared to by broadheads. Just wondering if the four blades are better.

I use the MX3 three blade 100g. What what of broadhead are you shooting. also what fletch are you shooting. if you give me your set up i might be able to help.

[nakoa]

Originally Posted by VBsteelheader

Bill, tell me how they shoot. Are you shooting the Mx3 or the Mx4?

i shoot mx3 and love them.

[nakoa]

Originally Posted by spottedhawk36

nope wont be at kutch tomorrow.

we missed you today. and yes i hit the same spot with feild tips as i do broadheads, not the target. lol

[huntsforfood]

i ran into a big problem this year getting mine to hit the same. i use shuttle t's which i though was what was throwing me off but everyone swore by them so i stuck with it. heres what i found the arrows i was shooting field tips with were cut at a diff shop than my arrows i bought my broadheads with. the field tip arrows were cut straight and the broadhead arrows wernt cut straight. apperantly when the saw blade they use when they cut the arrows cut crooked when they get worn out. so watch for this as i pounded my head against the wall for days trying to figure out my problem moral of the story spin test every arrow setup you get, have a well tuned bow, and it should shoot the same

[BrianMaguire]

Originally Posted by Dave Smith

Guys, tell me if I'm wrong here: Broadheads and field points hitting the same really doesn't matter one bit. Ofcourse it's convenient and you can feel good about your bow being perfectly tuned, yada, yada.
All that matters is that your arrows hit in the SAME place every time, right? If you shot broadheads all the time (and you're a hunter), and your bow was out of tune by some mini micro adjustment that caused the arrows to hit 1 1/2 inches right at 30 yards, how would you know that??????? (in other words: compared to what?) If they hit in that spot every time (all else being equal), I would say your sights are off! he he.
Disclosure: the preceeding ramblings are from a guy who just picked up a bow two years ago-lol
Dave

thats the attitude I took after trying for two years to tune my bow so they would both hit the same spot. I got close, my broad heads hit to the right 1" and low by 1". So I adjust my sights and I hit the bulls eye as good as my field points. In fact I made marks on my sights, so I know where to move them for field points and wher to put them for broadheads. I did find I really had to ge the blades aligned the same way on each arrow to get them to hit the same spot as all the rest of the broadheads.

[4th_Point]

My bow is paper tuned and shoots field points and ABC broadheads to the same point. The ABC isn't a very tough broadhead though.

[huntsforfood]

Originally Posted by Dave Smith

Guys, tell me if I'm wrong here: Broadheads and field points hitting the same really doesn't matter one bit. Ofcourse it's convenient and you can feel good about your bow being perfectly tuned, yada, yada.
All that matters is that your arrows hit in the SAME place every time, right? If you shot broadheads all the time (and you're a hunter), and your bow was out of tune by some mini micro adjustment that caused the arrows to hit 1 1/2 inches right at 30 yards, how would you know that??????? (in other words: compared to what?) If they hit in that spot every time (all else being equal), I would say your sights are off! he he.
Disclosure: the preceeding ramblings are from a guy who just picked up a bow two years ago-lol
Dave

i shoot 3d shoots with field tips and game with broadheads it matters if you do both unless you wanna sight in yourbow every couple weeks

[Dave Smith]

Originally Posted by huntsforfood

i shoot 3d shoots with field tips and game with broadheads it matters if you do both unless you wanna sight in yourbow every couple weeks

Yeah, that's the ideal situation for sure. I do know some guys that shoot braodheads only, year-round. They shoot broadhead 3-D at Sylvan Archers.

[Adjhunt]

My broadheads and field tips didn't hit the same spot this last summer when I screwed the broadheads in. But a little tuning and it was set to go.

[oregonoutdoors]

Originally Posted by huntsforfood

i ran into a big problem this year getting mine to hit the same. i use shuttle t's which i though was what was throwing me off but everyone swore by them so i stuck with it. heres what i found the arrows i was shooting field tips with were cut at a diff shop than my arrows i bought my broadheads with. the field tip arrows were cut straight and the broadhead arrows wernt cut straight. apperantly when the saw blade they use when they cut the arrows cut crooked when they get worn out. so watch for this as i pounded my head against the wall for days trying to figure out my problem moral of the story spin test every arrow setup you get, have a well tuned bow, and it should shoot the same

Try the arrow squaring device from G5. It really helps in getting your broadheads to spin tune correctly.

[lor]

Originally Posted by Dave Smith

Guys, tell me if I'm wrong here: Broadheads and field points hitting the same really doesn't matter one bit. Ofcourse it's convenient and you can feel good about your bow being perfectly tuned, yada, yada.

Dave your right, its doesn't matter, but some folks feel its important.
The closer I every came was 3" at 40 yds.
I don't even try anymore.

[beaverheart]

Great comments. I stopped shooting practice points a long time ago, and now shoot broadheads all the time. The Oregon coast is a huge sandpile and the entire dunes are my target area. Just walk around, pick a spot and let "er fly. Plus we have a nice little range that we set up in a sand bowl. I have had real good luck with the accuracy of the Blitz broadheads. After last season I ran a little short on Blitz broadheads so I got out some of my old Thunderheads. They consistently shot low. Guess what! After weighing my 100 grain Thunderhead it was discovered that it weighed 107 grains. Don't assume anything. Be very careful tuning your bow and weigh everything that you shoot.

[Cornbread]

What KingSlew said. For me with a long bow the easiest thing is to make sure everything starts on a good platform by bare shaft, paper testing to get my nock point and spine correct. That makes the biggest difference, from there getting everything else to work right is pretty easy but if that isn't right to start with then getting good consistancy is nigh on to impossible.

I have never shot compounds before, do you guys bare shaft tune your bows or is it not neccesary for them?

[Dave Smith]

Originally Posted by oregonoutdoors

Try the arrow squaring device from G5. It really helps in getting your broadheads to spin tune correctly.

OO: this is the second time you have mentioned this and this sounds like something I need to learn more about. In Wisconsin I was telling a guy how much trouble I went to to find the perfect arrow/broadhead combos to get good arrow flight he mentioned something about this, too. I thought what he was saying was that you simply check to see if the insert is centered, and if it's not, there is nothing you can do? Is there a way to make adjustments on each arrow? It also sounds like sanding the ends slightly may have helped my arrows, but it helped for all the wrong reasons and it's really not the way to achieve good braodhead arrow flight? Help? and THANKS!!!
Dave

[KingSlew]

Originally Posted by Dave Smith

OO: this is the second time you have mentioned this and this sounds like something I need to learn more about. In Wisconsin I was telling a guy how much trouble I went to to find the perfect arrow/broadhead combos to get good arrow flight he mentioned something about this, too. I thought what he was saying was that you simply check to see if the insert is centered, and if it's not, there is nothing you can do? Is there a way to make adjustments on each arrow? It also sounds like sanding the ends slightly may have helped my arrows, but it helped for all the wrong reasons and it's really not the way to achieve good braodhead arrow flight? Help? and THANKS!!!
Dave

You have much to learn grasshopper

Try this: Take six of the arrows that you're currently using and strip the vanes off of three of them. Put field tips on all six. Now using your best form shoot them at the same spot from 18-20 yards and report back here with the result. A pic would be good.

[oregonoutdoors]

Originally Posted by Dave Smith

OO: this is the second time you have mentioned this and this sounds like something I need to learn more about. In Wisconsin I was telling a guy how much trouble I went to to find the perfect arrow/broadhead combos to get good arrow flight he mentioned something about this, too. I thought what he was saying was that you simply check to see if the insert is centered, and if it's not, there is nothing you can do? Is there a way to make adjustments on each arrow? It also sounds like sanding the ends slightly may have helped my arrows, but it helped for all the wrong reasons and it's really not the way to achieve good braodhead arrow flight? Help? and THANKS!!!
Dave

Yeah, first it really helps if the end of your shaft is cut perfectly square. If it is not refer to the arrow squaring tool. Then insert a broadhead and spin the arrow in a verticle position with the point on a counter. You can also buy a special spin tester, but I never have seen the need. What you are looking for is the broadhead to spin perfectly true no wobble. If there is some wobble it is probably because the insert is not perfectly true inside the shaft. To correct this you try and figure which way it is out of balance by spinning the arrow again. Then you push the tip into something and really flex the arrow in the opposite direction that the wobble was coming from. It takes some work but almost any broadhead can be tuned this was. Some cheaper carbons arrows and insert/broadhead combos can really take alot of tuning. Easton axis arrows or other brand with the HIT should not take much tuning at all. A small broadhead is also easier to tune, and more forgiving if it is a little out of tune. -Ian

[brokenaxle3]

The most obvious thing i;ve seen done wrong that affects this is when cutting the arrow shaft, Some, , have the tendency to push the arrow through the cutting wheel putting a slight bevel on the end.

Should rotate the shaft 360`, just barely cutting the arow to keep it square. Seems easy enough, but had to say something more than once.