Help-Power Trim

[MintBrite]

I just had the the power trim pressure line blow off at the fitting of the pump motor. I have an older Mercruiser 165 with the power trim pump and motor mounted to transmission. The "up" line going from the pump to transom assembly blew off at the fitting going into the pump. This is a major problem because to replace it I'll have to pull the motor in order to get to the other fitting on the transom assembly!
I'm wondering if anyone knows if it possiable to take the boat to a hydrolic shop and have them recrimp the connecter that blew off? The line isn't in great shape but I think it would hold up for the rest of the season. I know -this line needs to hold 2700-3500 psi so a hose clamp over the line isn't going to cut it.
Anyone with an idea? I was suppose to be out tommorow fishing Tillamook with my Dad who came down from Seattle but now we'll be trying boat repairs instead. Thanks ahead for anything anyone might be able to sugguest.

[Pilar]

I think you have the same system that I have on 'Pilar' with the 140 mercruiser.

First some questions.

1) Does this hydraulic line have a braided cover?

2) Does the other end go up to a valve that is connected to your shift linkage?

3) Can you remove seats, engine cover, batteries or anything that can allow you to crawl into and get access to the back of the motor? Maybe you can use plywood to make a place to lie down on so you can get your arms in the space.

4) Do you own a copy of the Seloc repair manual for Mercruisers?

Mintbrite, I've been right where you are now and this is what I know about it. You must figure out why the hose blew or it won't be fixed with a recrimp or replaced hose.

Either the hose is misrouted or too short so it has a strain on it or the reverse interlock valve is not adjusted right.

The reverse interlock valve keeps you from trimming up while the outdrive is in reverse. Because it would rise very quickly and the prop would come out of the water. If this is not adjusted right it will shut off the 'up' trim path while the outdrive is in forward. The pump is positive displacement and will pressurize the hose far beyond the 1000 psi working pressure until something blows, in this case the fitting.

The aforementioned manual has very clear diagrams and instructions to help you get this stuff adjusted properly along with many "Don't ever do this!" type of warnings to keep you out of trouble. No other manual even comes close.

Replace the hose because no hydraulic shop will have the fittings and ferrules to make it work. I think that hose is abou $40 at Cascade Marine and they probably have it in stock.

The standoff bracket that the valve is mounted on is bolted to the transom on the inside gimbal housing plate by two 5/16" - 18 thread bolts that you should be able to reach with a 1/2 inch wrench. Just unconnect the shift cables and the return hose and it will come out. The pump is bolted to the same inner gimbal housing by three bolts the same size - also a 1/2 inch wrench or socket.

Access to this stuff is not easy but with universal joint extensions, sockets and end wrenches you can get it. Don't be shy about using penetrating oil.

(503)348-2337

Buy the book bro, it will save you some major brain damage.

[Pilar]

One more thought .. my boat is not accessible to me so I could not go look at it. It may be the line that goes through the transom to the cylinders outside the boat. That line is connected to a manifold block on the bottom of the gimbal housing outside the boat. This is the place where the hoses that go to the trim cylinders connect.

That block is easily removed by two 1/4 - 28 nuts, one forward and one aft. Use a 7/16" wrench and off it comes. Inside you'll find the pressure and return hoses screwed into the top surface of the manifold. Unscrew the bad hose and attach a length of stainless piano wire for a pull wire. You can use the Malin wire they sell at GI JOes in the flat blue bags or thin cord or whatever.

Pull the old hose out inside the boat and attach the end of the new hose to the pull wire. Use black electrical tape to make the end smooth so it wont hang up. Pull it back through to outside the boat.

I got to thinking about this and the reverse interlock is on the return hose. The pressure hose goes right out to the little manifold block on the bottom of the outdrive.

You can buy the red oblong gasket under the hydraulic manifold block at Cascade marine
also, like a $1 or something.

Good luck wrenching.

[ 09-26-2003, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: Pilar ]

[MintBrite]

I have the Merc manuals for the motor and I kept looking at the lines going under the exhaust manilfold wondering how in the world am going to do this? John your second thought is it I think we can still salvage the weekend yet! Thanks!!

[Big Dog]

Make sure you use a FLARE NUT WRENCH. That stainless is pretty soft and being in that aluminum manifold it could be set pretty good.

I had a similar hose blow on my 188 merc and was able to get it out the way Pilar suggested.

I pulled the hose through from the inside and hooked a piece of baling wire on it so I could use it as a pull wire.

Good luck

Big Dog

[MintBrite]

Repair is done :grin: Thanks for the insight. I called a local shop who gave me the, I don't know how but "WE" can fix! it in about a week. Then when I go to buy the new hose, the guy says oh "WE" new how to take it out. Oh well it's done and over now back to the fishing channel. :smile:

[Pilar]

Thanks, Big Dog. I could not remember the name of that special wrench. Mintbrite, you will need a 3/8" flare nut wrench for the hydraulic fittings. Sears has a craftsman with 7/16" on on end and 3/8" on the other for like $10. A flare nut wrench looks like a box end with a small gap cut in it to pass the hose through when you go to use it. It's like using a socket on the flare nut. Grips better and will not round over the flats on the soft SS nut. Dont be afraid to use like 1/2 a can of penetrating oil on everything before you put the beef to it with a wrench.

As a last resort use a propane torch and heat the nut and fitting until the penetrating oil smokes. Just be careful of what else the flame bears on. Do this as a last resort if it will not break loose. SS + aluminum + saltwater = stuck hard. Heat fixes it and you may have to heat and cool it several times before it works loose. Heat it, spray with penetrating oil to cool it off, Tap on the fitting with a brass drift punch and a hammer and try to break it loose with the wrench and repeat if necessary.

Make damn sure you draw a sketch of which hose goes where and which way the various hoses ( the angled fittings) point if you get into removing the cylinder hoses. Also you may have to pull both hoses through the gap under the exhaust pipe together as they fit together pretty tight in that small space. No big deal just draw a sketch of which hose goes where on the little manifold block and put it back the same way.

Before you put it together, flush the lines by running the trim pump with the two manifold lines unconnected for just a few seconds. This will keep any metal or chips of corrosion out of your trim cylinders and spill the crap on the ground instead. You can also blow everything off with compressed air and WD-40 to remove any dirt or metal chips before taking it apart and after you have loosened the fittings. You do not want contaminated oil in your cylinders or they will leak or fail. Leaking or jammed trim cylinders are very expensive to fix.

Don't ask me how I know this.

You might also consider changing the oil in the pump and cylinders while you are messing with it. I use 5-20W Pennzoil motor oil on mine. Some systems use auto tranny fluid. There is a sticker on the pump that tells you what to use.

[Pilar]

Very cool, we were typing at the same time. Go kill a big fish and good luck to you!