Boat down in front of Nehalem

corrirod · 08-15-2003, 02:45 PM

Not sure who it was but a blue and white boat, 17-19 ft. went down in front of the Nehalem bar this morning. Two passengers were recovered from the water and from the sound of the radio were o.k.

Unfortunately I didn't want the Coast Guard to get bored after running out to examine the accident so I decided to breakdown between the jetties out of Garibaldi! :shocked: Fortunately I was nowhere near the bar and was able to paddle myself to shore and wait for a Coast Guard tow back in. :depressed:

Engine was running fine when I put in. Drove outside the marina, put the outriggers out, no problems. Started to run hard and got about midway down the jetties and the engine started to sputter. Looked at the temp gauge to see it was overheating so I shut her down. After re-starting and stopping several times once it cooled, I took apart the new impeller and it looked fine. Opened up the tank to the strainer, turned the motor on and got excellent flow there from the pump. Checked all the fluids and they were fine. I don't know.

Oil pump maybe? Any ideas?

edsr · 08-15-2003, 02:53 PM

Rod -
As much as you might not want to do it - an overhaul is the answer. Anybody on the forum that would know how to do a competent job at a reasonable - make that an unreasonable rate?

edsr

Orca · 08-15-2003, 03:30 PM

Inboard or outboard?

TWB · 08-15-2003, 04:55 PM

Rod, don't overhaul quite yet!!!! If I remember right it's a volvo outdrive with a six cylinder engine?

What exactly is the problem? Overheating of the cooling system? Is the engine fresh or raw water cooled?

If it is fresh watercooled there are a bunch of things that could make it overheat. Low coolant in the system, bad fresh water cooling pump on the engine, bad thermostat, plugged exhaust manifolds or the risers. The heat exchanger will plug with sand or saltwater corrosion and will not cool properly.

If the block is raw water cooled the biggest problem is salt corrosion blocking the water jackets.

More information please?

Also were you there today, Friday? How were the seas, wind etc? Any chance of a tuna run, in your opinion? Wind is down at Stonewall tonight!

Jerry

corrirod · 08-15-2003, 06:10 PM

Arrrrrrrrrgh! Don't say that Ed! [img]graemlins/1zhelp.gif[/img]

Actually you're probably right but unfortunately the bank account says "NO!".

Anyway, I think I've narrowed the problem to two possible suspects, the thermostat and/or the circulating pump.

I have a raw water oil cooling system as well as a freshwater closed loop system. The raw water goes thru an oil cooling cylinder then to a heat exchanger, then out thru the exhaust. The freshwater side goes from the pump to the engine block, then to the thermostat, then to the heat exchanger and back to the circulating pump.

I picked up a new thermostat to install tomorrow. If that fails, which I suspect it might, then I'll need to rebuild the circulating pump. :depressed: Since the damn thermostat cost $28 I can only imagine what the new pump will cost!

Oh well, it's only money right?

[img]graemlins/1zhelp.gif[/img]

I'm sure everything will be fine and I'll be fishing again on Sunday.( Please let it be just the thermostat! )

TWB · 08-15-2003, 07:21 PM

Rod, it's a Volvo, but is it a Chevy motor? If so, that circulating pump should be just a stock Chev water pump. That's how my 350 is.
Jerry

Orca · 08-15-2003, 08:38 PM

I had overheating problems with full water cooling, and it turned out to be the exhaust risers. They were nearly rusted shut. It came on all at once rather than gradually, so I thought for sure it was water pump or thermostat. Then I figured a plugged heat exchanger, but it was the risers.

I have read that risers/manifolds will last only 3 - 5 years when run in the salt (probably more related to hours run). Mine looked to be original (but may not have been), and the boat is 16 years old, so it appears to me you can get more years out of them, but they do go bad. Try ebasicpower.com if you need new ones, mine were $240 for the pair.

I have a Chevy 305 and buy automotive parts like TWB suggests. The hard part is getting the parts guys to quit trying to look up some particular model and just give you the basic Chevy part that has been in use for nearly 50 years. Good parts guys have no problem understanding what you want, but the new kids at many places are clueless.

Note : Don't however buy automotive parts for those that could explode your boat - distributor, alternator, starter, carb, fuel pump, air cleaner. Be sure to get CG or SAE marine approved parts for these items. And check prices for these at ebasicpower.com or boatfix.com

[ 08-16-2003, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: Orca ]

SPAZZ · 08-19-2003, 03:06 PM

OUCH

SPAZZ · 08-19-2003, 03:09 PM

OUCH