I am finally bedding my rifle- am I ready?

[bigjake_888]

So I have attached the following pictures of how my stock and barrel look. I also have a vid that shows you where I am. Am I ready to bed my action? Using epoxy I don't want to screw this up! Tell me what you think! This was actually pretty easy. I'll tell you next week if I get any better with the groups. Should I put a clay dam in? Check out my vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ4JuRE8900

bed stock1.JPG

bed stock 2.JPG

bed stock 3.JPG

[I bleed fish]

Yeah, let us know how it goes. I've never bedded a rifle, but I may want to do it with a Rem 700 mtn rifle. The light barrel seems to throw a couple fliers every now and again when it get's hot after 2 shots... Good luck!

[huntinfool]

I've never seen it done that way (masking the action). I'd ditch the masking tape and fill in all the voids with clay from the craft store. The idea is to fill the stock with epoxy and there should be no voids between the stock and action. That is of course if you intend to bed the action from the tang to the recoil lug. Here's how I do it:

1. Wrap masking tape around the barrel where the end of the stock is, use enough so the barrel is a snug fit in the barrel channel of the stock (this will make sure your barrel stays centered in your stock.

2. Take electrical tape and starting at the top of the recoil lug make two complete wraps around the lug. Trim off excess so only the lug itself is wrapped. You may need to degrease the metal in order for the tape to stick.

3. Remove the trigger and everything you can take off. Fill in all voids with clay: trigger pin holes, exhaust ports, even the action screw holes. For the magazine opening, cut out a piece of cardboard and fit it into place-use clay to fill any voids that the cardboard doesn't.

4. For the stock, fill in the magazine well with paper towels-jam them tightly in there and the use masking tape to seal it off. You can also do this to the trigger mortise. If you want to free float the barrel, you'll want to either wrap the barrel shank or place tape in the stock barrel channel. I use 20mil heat/ac duct tape (its black and very heavy). This will give you enough clearance to slide a business card under the barrel.

4.Not sure what you're using for epoxy? I use Marine-Tex gray. you can get it at Fishermans or Joes. It is a 5:1 mix ratio and hardens like steel and sands like wood. For release agent, you can use shoe polish, Pam cooking spray etc. Make sure you coat everything really well, especially the action screws.

5. Have LOTS of Q-tips on hand, a whole box usually. They clean everything up and then have a garbage can handy to just drop the used ones in.

6. Once you have the epoxy ready, FILL the stock completely. I use plastic syringes I also get at Fishermans. They are really handy to get the epoxy where you want/need it. Once the epoxy is in the stock, use the tip of the syringe or a popsycle stick and "pump" the stick up and down in the epoxy to work out any air bubbles. You can fill the syringes similar to packing wheel bearings with grease.

7. Starting with the rear most action screw, get it started and then slowly let the action sink into the stock. Apply some pressure and then start the front screw. Epoxy will ooze out of everywhere. Start the clean up with the Q-tips. Pay special attention to the action screws. Once the action has been seated and you've cleaned up most of the spilt epoxy, remove the screws and clean out the screw holes. Try to remove all epoxy from the screw holes using the Q-tips. Recoat them with release agent and then screw them back into the action, a little more than finger tight.

Wait 24 hours and then undo the screws. If the don't come with force, you can apply some heat to them (solder iron works great). You may need to drop the barrel end on the carpet to "pop" it loose. Use a dremmel with a diamond bit and sanding drum to finish and remove the dried excess.

[I/P too]

Would you explain the use of tape on the recoil lug? I would think that you would just use the releasing agent so this would be a tight fit so no posible fore and aft movment.

[bigjake_888]

The two pieces of tape on the recoil lug allow for a small amount of movement forward, left and right. This will allow for you to actually remove the barreled action from the bedded stock.

Picture a tiney world where flat things are not flat. That is your recoil lug. It is full of bumps and crevases that will fill and embed into the epoxy. If you bed all the way around it it will be like pulling a dowel out of concrete that you just cast it in. But if tape one side to give it some play. It can slam against one side to keep it in place and it can be removed. You do not tape the recoil side of the recoil lug or the "back."

Did I answer the recoil lug question?

I am using glass bed by brownells. I usually "slang" any material that is a resin and a hardner with "epoxy." I think it is important to note that in this method of bedding there has been wood removed for the bedding to fit into. There has been specific wood left in place to act as temporary pillars until the bedding hardens around them. This way I can test just how my rifle sits in the stock before I mix the resin.

[huntinfool]

Well, first you DO NOT want the recoil lug to move back and forth in the stock-that defeats the whole purpose of bedding. Side to side is enough movement to remove the barreled action. The purpose of bedding is to eliminate movement of the barreled action within the stock.

[bigjake_888]

The reason I am posting this thread is to find out if I am doing it right so thank you for responding I really appreciate it. This is what I did:

"Cover the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug with a single layer of browenells wide bedding tape or smooth electricians tape. The rear lug surface transfers energy to the stock so it must remain uncovered."

Brownells

"Apply two layers of plastic electrician’s or duct tape to the front,
sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. Use the Exacto ® Knife to trim
the tape to fit the lug. Once the bedding is cured and this tape is
removed, the clearance provided will aid in future assembly and disassembly
of the rifle. Note: Do not apply tape to the rear side of
the recoil lug, as you want to maintain firm contact between it and

its recess in the stock. (See Figure 10B)."

Miles Gilbert Bedrock

[huntinfool]

Originally Posted by bigjake_888

The reason I am posting this thread is to find out if I am doing it right so thank you for responding I really appreciate it. This is what I did:

"Cover the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug with a single layer of browenells wide bedding tape or smooth electricians tape. The rear lug surface transfers energy to the stock so it must remain uncovered."

Brownells

"Apply two layers of plastic electrician’s or duct tape to the front,
sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. Use the Exacto ® Knife to trim
the tape to fit the lug. Once the bedding is cured and this tape is
removed, the clearance provided will aid in future assembly and disassembly
of the rifle. Note: Do not apply tape to the rear side of
the recoil lug, as you want to maintain firm contact between it and

its recess in the stock. (See Figure 10B)."

Miles Gilbert Bedrock

That is the fool proof, don't sue us method. I'm just telling you from experience of 10 plus bed jobs, you don't want to do it that way. Recoil lugs have dual draft angles (tapered if you will) to always allow removal from the stock. With the barreled action sitting in the stock with the action screws removed, you don't want ANY forward OR rearward movement. I learned how to bed rifles from Darrell Holland (Hollands gunsmithing). I could possibly look to see if I can find his video if I still have it and loan it to you.

[huntinfool]

PM sent.

[scottishsetter]

I use Carrnuba Car Wax, two coats. Just remember that epoxy is going to stick to everything;tight. Press your tape down tight. Maybe run a nickel around the edges.Good luck

[Hunt'nFish]

Jake,
Looks fine to me. Don't forget the release spray.
I tape off mine, although I only tape off the front of the recoil lug.
Nothing wrong w/ taping off the middle of the action.

IMO, I would take the time to drill the stock for pillars for the action screws.
Hunt'nFish

[bigjake_888]

So I decided to tape off the front and sides of the recoil lug with one piece of blue masking tape. I measured the recoil lug and could not convince myself that it would come out.

I practiced a few times without the epoxy so when I did the epoxy it was not a cluster.

It seemed to work ok. I put cardboard or paper towels in the stock where the recieve box is and that helped a bunch. Thanks huntingfool. Thanks for all that PM me for this and I will let you know what happens at the range next week.

Off to the coast to get some late season tuna.

[huntinfool]

To each his own. I would at least wrap the barrel shank with some tape, it will help with your clearance in the barrel channel. Hogging material out by itself won't be enough once you remove the tape off of the recoil lug.

Curious to why you aren't bedding the sides of the action especially on a wood stock? It will help eliminate unwanted pressure when the stock swells from moisture.

Here is a picture of two of my bedding jobs. Top one a Kimber Montana stock, bottom a McMillan. The Montana stock I beddied a couple of inches up the barrel channel. I also used some epoxy to fill in some voids in the mag well. The McMillan I stopped the epoxy at the lug. Both stocks were bedded with lug fully captured minus the wrap of electrical tape around the radius of the lug. I also bed the full length of the reciever along the rails.

[Legend21]

So I am finding this entire thread on "bedding" very interesting, yet being a novice to the whole world of gun-smithing, I am curious as to why someone "beds" a rifle? What is the overall goal, pros, cons, etc?

Thanks in advance for enlightening me on this topic, just another reason I love ifish.

[Roperguy]

you bed a rifle to tighten the fit of the action to the stock. they are made with some inherent slop due to mass production. bedding the action removes this slop and helps to ge tight shot groups.

[scottishsetter]

At the shot you're recoil lug may move .010" left.
At the next shot you're action and Bbl. may move back .012" right.
Bedding keeps it there in one spot. Try loosening you're action screws and shooting 5 shots then tighten it down 5 more. You get the picture.
We all like a good picture. 5 holes touching is a sight to see; talk to some 'experts' at your gunclubs' bench shooting match. Ask a few questions and watch even more.. Good Luck

PS I am NOT a bench rest shooter. But I pulled targets for them.

[bigjake_888]

OK- so my stock came undone! I am very happy. A few things for someone who has never done this before that I learned. I did have fun by the way.

I did tape the barrel to make sure I free floated. This is a good idea. It works I tested it with a bill and the hold up and bump it method.

I did fill the reciever box with paper towels. Good Idea

I found out that my action screw at the recoil lug has a hole into my chamber that epoxy can come out. Dodged a bullet there... get it?

I did not use enough epoxy on the barrel side of the recoil lug. I only bedded about an inch of this area. I am not too concerned I can always add more when I do my M77.

I found out that you CAN bed sythetic remington stocks and I did not have to buy Hogwilds stock. Oh well.

I found out there is no place on the internet that will show you how to reassemble a remington trigger. Can anyone help me? I am looking for a step by step guide to reassembly my trigger. :-(

Jake

[scottishsetter]

Exactly how far did you take the Rem. trig. apart?

[bigjake_888]

I pulled the pins and it all fell apart. I have two pins. A spring and two metal plates and the assembly. I have put back other types of triggers so this one cannot be that hard. I just need some instructions somewhere with some pictures.

[bigjake_888]

Need to clean some things up but you can see the finished deal here. The recesses I created are all filled.

img016.jpg

[I bleed fish]

Nice work. I just bought a Savage .22 with wooden stock. I may use it to practice bedding before I tackle a more important rifle, and I'll use your thread as a guide. Thanks for documenting and let us know how it improved at the range.