Wiring Downriggers

jimh · 06-13-2003, 12:12 PM

Any suggestions on whether to go with a fuse block or breaker block.

I'm planning on wiring one block direct from the battery and will add additional wire as needed when I add additional downriggers. Is this a good idea? My thought is that this will simplify the connections.

corrirod · 06-13-2003, 12:22 PM

That's what I did jimh. The block is right back where the downriggers are so if I blow one I can change it real quick. Keep extra fuses in/near the block so if you blow one during an emergency, meaning if you get hung up on the bottom or in the prop, or whatever, you can change it real quick.

crabbait · 06-13-2003, 10:09 PM

Why not a circuit breaker, Rod, so you would only have to reset the breaker?

Slugranch · 06-14-2003, 06:15 AM

Use circuit breakers,,,they are like $10 -15 at Englunds, and then you don't have to look for fuses and fumble around while the fish are getting away

Pilar · 06-14-2003, 07:55 AM

Expensive for something that will die of exposure to saltwater just as quickly as a fuse.

Can you get circuit breakers that are at least drip proof if not water proof? I'm thinking of the ones that are matchbook by 1/2" thick. They have a small black plastic button that is not sealed for a reset.

corrirod · 06-14-2003, 09:34 AM

Corrosion proof is the key. It's real easy for me to change out the fuse because I have a 5 spot strip and only use 1 so the other 4 have spare fuses.

The problem with the push-button breakers is if they get corroded then what do you do? Put in a new one? I guess I could put one in the cabin but then I'd have to run wires from the back to the front and I wouldn't be able to keep them on separate batteries. Besides, this was the fastest way to get them up and running because I'm so darn impatient! :grin:

Slugranch · 06-18-2003, 04:48 AM

The breakers are a manual trip breaker, and are moisture proof. if you want to use the push-button type, just stop by Wacky Willies out in Aloha by the Reedville Cafe (actually northeast of it) They have push button breakers by the bunch. The last time I bought 5 amp ones I paid 35 cents a piece.

fish assassin · 06-18-2003, 06:34 AM

This is how I ran the wires to a fuse block on my Dory (Fish Assassin) ...

I went to the local Safeway (Freds, Bi-mart, whatever) and bought a small
Tupperware type food saver box. Drilled a hole in one side, mounted the
little plastic box where I needed it, mounted the fuse block inside the
plastic box and ran the wires thru the hole in the side of the box (which is
now on the bottom of the box ... facing the floor).

If you get a food-saver box with a snap on plastic top (ala tupperware) the
moisture is sealed out and away from the electrical connections (with the exception
of the little hole on the (now) bottom of the box. It's easy to get into and
re-close (reseal) and keeps things dry and happy and it's *cheap* and *easy* to do!!

Two caveates: 1) Don't seal the little hole that you drilled in the side
of the container for the wire(s). That way, any moisture that DOES collect
has a way do dribble out. 2) make sure you get a container that is both deep
enough to hold your fuse block (don't ask me how I know this!! :blush: :blush: ) *AND*
big enough that you can get your hand in there to change a fuse (again, don't ask me ... :grin: )

I haven't had corrodid fuse connections since I went to this method and the
dory is a pretty *wet* boat, IfYaKnowWhatIMean!

Good luck,
-assAssin-

corrirod · 06-18-2003, 06:43 AM

That's a great idea FA. [img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img]

fish assassin · 06-18-2003, 07:16 AM

Glad to be of assistance!

-assAssin-

SlabQuest · 06-18-2003, 07:36 AM

I have a fuse block with the flat automotive type fuses in it. I see now that there are flat circuit breakers that can be substituted for the fuses bor about $6/each.

Has anyone figured out a GOOD way to maintain constant positive electrical contact in the DR plug? I have been fighting this one for years. I try Scotty's stuff that they make for the contact surfaces and I bend the metal contacts to increase the physical contact. But they still need to be wiggled / jiggled a lot. I thought it might just be a Scotty thing, but I was using a friend's Penn 2 weeks ago and had the same problem.

corrirod · 06-18-2003, 07:48 AM

Yeah, I occasionally have to get a wire brush out and clean both the male and female contacts. I guess you could use FA's suggestion above also but it might be more hassle than it's worth if you have to keep connecting and disconnecting them.

Slow Roll · 06-18-2003, 08:02 AM

What about using conductive grease? I have used it before with good results and it keeps the corrosion at bay.

Paul B.

corrirod · 06-18-2003, 09:14 AM

Well Paul, I guess if you want to do it the easy, inexpensive, and smart way you could do that, but not me. Oh no, I like to really make it a lot of work for myself. [img]graemlins/stupid.gif[/img]

Thanks for the help Paul!

SlabQuest · 06-18-2003, 04:42 PM

I was thinking that the goo that Scotty supplied was conductive grease. Maybe not? Maybe I'm not familiar with the stuff. Is there a particular brand that's good? Get it at auto parts store or electrical supply?

I would love to solve this problem once and for all. I mean, I look pretty silly playing a fish standing on one foot while I'm holding in the DR plug with the other foot.

[ 06-18-2003, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: SlabQuest ]

Slow Roll · 06-19-2003, 11:53 PM

Slab,
I got a tube of it at ACE hardware when I was installing my new range (copper connecting to aluminum requirs conductive grease).
Stuff goes a long ways and cost a couple of bucks. I don't think brand really matters a whole bunch, its just grease.

Paul B.