reloading lead bullets

[k9jeff]

I am reloading for .44 revolver, either a ruger super blackhawk or a smith 29-2. I spend a lot of time at the range hitting paper with both guns.

I am thinking about making the jump to cast lead bullets because copper jacket bullets cost some $$ when I am shooting around 200+ or - a week.

I am loading a 240 grain .44 special to about 700 feet per second for a plinking round. Anyone have experience with lead bullets and fouling. These are for punching holes in paper. Any advice or words of wisdom?
I want to shoot and reload, not spend hours cleaning guns.

Thanks in advance.

[StickFish]

Depends on the mix of lead and hardeners. You always get some fouling, but it isn't that bad. I use a patch with a liberal coat of JB Compound to scrub the lead out - good stuff - followed by my normal cleaning procedure.

I think you are going to find that lead bullets are not that cheap anymore.

[Don Fischer]

I have always used mostly straight wheel weights for bullets and never had leading problems. I used linotype when I found it and again, no leading. The only leading I ever experienced was with factory 41 mag ammo and it leaded badly. I read somewhere that factory stuff is made with pure lead.

Years ago a friend loaded for the 44 and he used wheel weights but mixed tooth pase tubes in to harden it. Don't know the mix and tooth paste tubes are plastic now.

I do make sure my bullets are well lubed, that supposed to help and if I were going to shoot over 900 fps I'd use a bullet with a gas check. I don't have any idea how that Lee lube works but a lot of guys use it. I use alox and wax and put it on with a lubeasizer

[Hunt'nFish]

I shoot only commercial hardcast lead. Mainly Circle C or Griers w/ a BH of 13.
Typically I'd shoot about 300rd to get through a good day of practice.
My 1911's would show some fouling and yes, some scubbing was required.

Precision Hardcast & Oregon Trail bullets are harder alloys and do foul less.
Back when Rainer Bullets (copper plated) were available locally, I'd shoot a lot of them. Now they cost a lot when you figure in shipping from the distributers.

The key IMO is to find a local caster and buy in bulk (5k or more) and pick them up yourself.
Shipping costs for lead is a killer now.
Hunt'nFish

[billc_sbio]

One of the main points about shooting Lead bullets well through your revolver (or any gun) without Leading problems is to slug your bore, then to shoot bullets that are sized at least .001" larger than the bore.

True Leading is caused when hot gases are able to blow by the side of the bullet and actually MELT Lead as they do.

Pure Lead (which you typically won't be shooting in a centerfire .44 at any speedy velocity) has the HIGHEST Melting Point.

As you add Tin and Antimony, which are hardeners for making Lead bullets, you actually LOWER the temperature the alloy melts at.

This isn't a problem as long as the bullets seal well in the bore.

Typically using powders such as Unique, 231, HP38 (same as 231) and a few others make good "Mid-Range" (mid-velocity) loads that are pretty pleasant to shoot.

[Ifishsum]

I bought a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells, cleaning lead from the forcing cone and barrel is a 2-3 minute process - one pass through the barrel and usually clean. It's well worth it if you'll be shooting a lot of lead, nothing else gets the lead out quicker than the LLR.

At slower velocities, proper diameter and lubrication matter more than alloy hardness as it affects leading. I cast using 50/50 wheel weight/pure for .45 colt, .45ACP and .38 special, leading isn't much of a problem but it does build up after a while.

[k9jeff]

Thanks Gents,
I have located a local caster with a good reputation at the gun club. I am going to place an order. It will be much cheaper that name brand 240 grain JHP's. Paper targets will not know if its jacketed or not.

The lewis Lead Remover looks like something I might "need" also. The Video at Brownells web site was cool.

Any suggestions on cleaning solvent? I currently use hoppes and 762 sweets (rifle copper removal) and they work just fine.

Again, thanks for the info.

Jeff

[billc_sbio]

I actually consider there are two DIFFERENT conditions that are seen with shooting Lead Bullets.

One is true Leading. This is almost like soldered Lead, melted and left along the barrel. This occurs due to the hot gasses blowing BY the bullet and melting the alloy and leaving the molten Lead along the barrel.

The other is what I call "Streaking". It's more like what you see with Copper Fouling in a barrel from roughness and tool marks. In this case the Lead can be seen on a patch or a brush as little flakes of Lead that come off/out pretty easily.

True Leading is pretty tough to get out and something like the Lewis Lead Remover is needed for scrubbing it out. The Streaking is much easier to remove and pretty much brushes right out with a Bronze Bore Brush.

The Lewis Remover is a pretty handy tool to have in either case.

[Flatfish]

Hunt&Fish is dead on.

FYI-It has been my experience that if you look at the Brownells site very often, your retirement shrinks.