Reloading: How full in the case

OutTrolling (ot) · 05-28-2008, 10:56 AM

Considering reloading but have a question based on an article I read. A fellow had reloaded some ammo for his pistol, shot it and it destroyed the pistol. He took down one of the remaining loads and discovered that he had double charged due to the type of scale he was using. Apparently there were multiplier weights that were used for setting the balance and he accidently had the wrong one on the balance beam.

A couple of answers had been written to prevent that from occurring. Use electronic scales and/or use a type of powder that when the correct amount of grains of powder is put in the case for the charge, there is not enough room to put in a double charge because the case is full. Since different types of powder call out various grain amounts, the second response seems to make the most sense to me. What is your take on this.

I know there are many on this board who load your own. And it is inevitable that interruptions occur in the process--phone rings, honey-do's, etc. What precautions and/or safety measures do you take to make sure you don't (or preferably can't) over charge.

Boatdog · 05-28-2008, 11:23 AM

1. Use a certified calibrated weight to check the scale. Some people use coins or high grade bullets to check the accuracy.
2. Visual inspection of charged cases while in the tray, before moving to the bullet seating stage. This step wouldn't work on a progressive loader.

I'm sure there will be lots of other great ideas and tips.

baltz526 · 05-28-2008, 11:30 AM

use a higher volume powder, i pick powders on how full the case will be. 85% full or better is prefered

Santiam338 · 05-28-2008, 11:36 AM

A guy needs to take a second to stop and think before reloading...Double charges, 3031 instead of 4831 in the magnum are all careless ,stupid mistakes that are easily avoidable...

Kinda like running a table saw blindfolded...Sure you can do it, but why???

I use bluedot in some light rifle loads,works good but it is easy to make a grenade if you don't keep your wits about you...

Take reloading seriously and be sure of every step and you won't have any problems...

Ifishsum · 05-28-2008, 11:40 AM

I put all my pistol cases upright in a loading block as soon as I put the powder in them, then do a visual with a strong light or flashlight before seating the bullet, looking for any that has more powder than the others. So far I've never dropped a double charge but I'm pretty confident that I'll spot it if I do.

Lots of folks suggest using a bulkier powder that fills the case and that works, but I don't like to limit myself to those powders. I use a lot of Bullseye in .38 special using only 3-3.5 grains and a lb goes a long way.

StickFish · 05-28-2008, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baltz526

use a higher volume powder, i pick powders on how full the case will be. 85% full or better is prefered

Higher the load density the more uniform the ignition IMO

Hunt'nFish · 05-28-2008, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baltz526

use a higher volume powder, I pick powders on how full the case will be. 85% full or better is prefered

With rifle reloading I'm usually running as slow a burn rate powder as I can for a given load.
In fact most of my high performance rifle loads are over 100% load density. (Run through a drop tube.)

For pistol target loads, I like to run a moderately quick powder that is ~75% load density.

Of course attention to detail are the marching orders w/ ANY reloading.
Fall asleep at the wheel and surely bad things WILL happen.
Hunt'nFish

goforchrome · 05-28-2008, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ifishsum

I put all my pistol cases upright in a loading block as soon as I put the powder in them, then do a visual with a strong light or flashlight before seating the bullet, looking for any that has more powder than the others. So far I've never dropped a double charge but I'm pretty confident that I'll spot it if I do.

Lots of folks suggest using a bulkier powder that fills the case and that works, but I don't like to limit myself to those powders. I use a lot of Bullseye in .38 special using only 3-3.5 grains and a lb goes a long way.

This is the reason I'm nervous using Titegroup.
A little makes alot of bang.

ajfishfinder · 05-28-2008, 03:03 PM

And it is inevitable that interruptions occur in the process--phone rings, honey-do's, etc.

This is stuff that you DO NOT handle while loading. A separate room in the basement or garage comes to mind. Close the door and you are reloading. You don't surf ifish while loading either. Try your best to completly eliminate any and all interuptions until you are done with whatever you are doing. Every time you jump up and leave what you are doing just makes for one more possible costly mistake.

Grantspastor · 05-28-2008, 04:34 PM

It's a real possibility with some pistol loads/powders. With most loads for rifles, there's not enough room to double charge a case. I use an accurate powder measure, then weigh every fifth charge

scottishsetter · 05-28-2008, 06:24 PM

I use the Redding 3BR with the pistol cyl. in it. All I have to do is make sure I 'throw' once in each. It takes concentration. I visually check by 'angling' the load block till the powder is just visible.
There's always the Lee dipper set and seat the bullet after loading the powder.

KingSlew · 05-28-2008, 08:09 PM

Since you're in the considering reloading stage, I suggest that you buy a good reloading manual. Hornady, Speers, Nosler, etc. It will have all the do's and dont's, step by step as well as the loads, case lengths, how to clean cases, seat primers, etc. In short everything that you need to know in order to reload safely. If you take the short route by going online for loads, etc., before you know what you're doing, you're asking for trouble. It ain't rocket science, but it can hurt you bad.

dla · 05-28-2008, 08:59 PM

The trick in any activity is learning what is really important and then working to perfect it. Is cleaning primer pockets important with .45acp brass? How about sorting the brass?

But a double-charge of Bullseye will ruin your day, so managing the charging process is important. One way, as others have mentioned, is to use powders like AA5 instead of Bullseye. Another way, is to deliberately cause a double-charge, so that you understand what caused the situation, and then modify your setup to minimize the likelyhood of it happening.

I load pistol on a progressive. I know how to cause a double. I use a powder that makes a double very apparent and I sit above the press so that I can look down into the case before seating a bullet. I've loaded a lot of pistol rounds and this is what works for me.

Weeding out the fluff and focusing on the important stuff is what you want to do.

BrianMaguire · 05-28-2008, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baltz526

use a higher volume powder, i pick powders on how full the case will be. 85% full or better is prefered

\

For Rifles the optimal load is usually the powder and grains that fill the shell

James in Idaho · 05-29-2008, 10:00 AM

+1 to all the above on reloading. I've loaded 1000's of .38's and .357's on a single stage press (now I shoot a .22!), and a mandatory for me is to visually inspect all the cases prior to seating the bullet. Not just for a double charge, but also a no charge. I used to use Red Dot in the .38, and it was very possible to have a double. I would charge 50 in a block, check the weight, inspect the cases, then seat the bullets. I don't push the "red line" in my reloading, so even with a weight check every 50 I was comfortable, and my RCBS thrower is really pretty accurate. YMMV! I also check my rifle loads, except with those I verify my charge every 5 rounds. Good light and privacy is important in a reloading room.