What is pluggin' water and what rod is best?

[blackdog]

Here's a link that you may find helpful:
http://www.luhr-jensen.com/tr_hot_shot.htm

As far as rods go, you can't beat the Loomis HSR9000C. I started fishing one last year and absolutely love it. Its lighter than heck but got enough backbone to handle the brutes.

[Artwo]

bait boy,
I primarily backtroll plugs for winter stealhead exclusively from my drift boat. I tend to look for long runs of flat moving water a little faster than walking speed that is from 4-8 feet deep with some larger sized rocks and/or boulders in it under the surface. I like to work my plugs from side to side (kind of a zig-zag pattern)down the run in and around the rocks/boulders looking for those resting fish. My particular plug favorites for winters are hot shots in size 30 and 35 or wiggle warts in the typical pirate colors with blue pirate and green pirate being my personal favorites. A couple of tips, 1) replace all factory hooks with single siwash (sp) hooks and extend them back from the plug with an extra split ring or two. Make sure your hooks are sticky sharp all the time. 2) When backtrolling plugs with others in the boat (2-3 out at a time) make sure that the plugs are all lined up in a straight row below the boat. I put line markers (I use bobber stop thread tied on my line)on all my plug rods set at approx. 50-60 feet up the line to make sure evrything gets lined up below the boat. I have found that this can make the difference between hooking fish and not on a few occasions. In dirty water I tend to go with solid color plugs in fluoresent red or orange and use some type of sent paste on them applied to the back of the plug with shrimp mixed with a little anis oil is my favorite. Backtroll slow and cover allot of water, hope this helps.

JK

[bait boy]

Thanks for your time and a little insight.

[Thumper]

Rick --- I know a little about plugging the Lewis at normal flows, but I'm a neophyte at the current flow rates. Probably the best advice is to think like a fish --- work the soft water and inside seams. Get as close to the brushy banks as you can. I like divers and bait (eggs or shrimp, even RT's pink worms) when the water is high. Fortunately the NF is an easy river to read. It will certainly be a challenge at these levels.

[Tanner]

Bait Boy,
As far as Artwo's suggestion of putting siwash hooks on your plugs. That is great when you are fishing for hatchery fish, but as soon as the natives are in take them off and put on some good treble hooks. I will never again use siwash hooks when natives are present. Fishing the Willamette last winter for steelhead, we got into several large native silvers. After releasing a couple of them just to watch them float away because they had taken the hooks on my plugs so deep (and in the gills) I called it a day, went home, and changed all my siwash hooks out for trebles.
You will definitely lose a lot less fish with siwash hooks but it is not worth injuring one of Gods greatest creations (Native Steelhead)

[FishinMission]

Hey Rick...think like a fish, and fish the water you'd swim in if you had to swim upriver.

Usually, it's the slower water out of the main current. Also on the inside of the turns in higher water.

For me...I like anywhere from three to 6,7,8, feet of depth. Get to know your plugs and how deep they dive too. For example...Wee Warts are shallower divers than say a Wiggle Wart or a Mag Wart. Some have rattles...others don't.

And probably most important...be sure they're TUNED to run straight. All of the above points in the other posts are good ones to follow too.

Some folks look down on "Pluggin'"..but I sure enjoy doing it, and "Pluggin'" can be very effective.

Good luck out there...


Mark

[SandySteel]

I say "ditto" to everything that artwo says. I especially believe in having your rods all out at the same length. This means that I ask guest not to worry about supplying a plug rod and I supply it with the line marked at 50' each. I mark them with the boat in the driveway and each rod in its holder and then run the line out the right length and then tie on a nail knot. This way I know they are all working at the same distance.
Two other things I strongly believe in with plugs is a soft tipped rod and monofilament. I love fiberglas rods for this reason. It allows the plug to dive and dip rather than hold it in place in the current. It also lets me keep in touch with what the plug is doing. If the rods aren't bumping, something is wrong that I need to resolve right away. The reason I like monofilament is that I believe it has enough stretch that it won't pull the plug out of a fish's mouth (I honestly believe I have lost fish due to the no stretch nature of tuf line.) I also really like using flourescent line so that I can see where the plugs are.
Another important tip is to tune those plugs. It is vital to making them run correctly and to catch fish.

Good luck,
Eric

[Snapshot]

Bait Boy- we will see you tomorrow. I have only tied a plug on one time and that was about two weeks ago with some help and directions from Rags. I caught my first steelhead on a plug within about 30 seconds of having it in the water. Rags was still threading the line through his rod when it hit.
Several stated how important it is to tune the plugs, but no one has informed us what that is. First thing Rags showed me was to use a safety pin type clip to attach to the plugs split ring. Tie your mail line to that and drop it in the water with about five or six feet of line out. Let the current take it down and watch to see if it dives streight down or if it dives and swings off to the right or left. If is flutters to the side the eye on the plug is bent and needs to be streighted. Use your pliars on that. Not your teeth, Now put it back in the water and see if it goes down streight or if it still swims to one side. Keep doing this till you have it diving streight down and stays there.
Now that you are tuned in, go fish and enjoy.
I will have the hats at the Oak Tree for lunch. Come by and let me know how they worked. I used losts of plugs on bass but never on steelhead or salmon until this year. Thanks to Rags

[FM2]

baitboy, very good info from some guys that have alot of plugging experience. Blackdog mentioned the Loomis HSR9000C rod, the HSR stands for Hot Shot Rod and this is an excellent plug rod, by far the best I have ever used. It seems pretty limber but I have caught nooks with this rod, takes a little more time because of it's size but for steelies it's awesome.

I have been experimenting with scents using plugs. This pic show a plastic sleeve with two beads above the swivel. I fill the sleeve with scent (homebrew scent..not the kind you consume) and the two beads act as regulators to release scent. The first time out last Saturday this setup caught a #12 nook. I think this setup has some potential to provide scent to plugs with a slow release to attract fish. Fish can smell in parts per billion so it doesn't take much to attract them.

Good Luck :smile:

[Williedrifter]

Souds like the loomis is a good choice for plugs but for me as well as others I'm sure its Not feasible. Is a glass rod better than graphite? I've been looking at the E-glass rods by Cabellas, I think they are only seven feet long but rated 10-16 or 18 and the price is right. Anyone know anything about these? It's got to be better than using an older drift rod.

[bait boy]

I am new to plugging and would like some pointers for larger rivers with nondescript holes. I believe the basic technique is to slowly back down holes working side to side all the way down to the tailout.

I think that classic plug water is 7-10 ft hole with a defined tailout and softer water at the head.

Can anyone enlighten me?

Thumper any hot tips for plugging the Lewis?

Do you change size of plug or bill to work the deeper holes, or do you use a diver or lead?

I find myself at a loss with plugs mainly because I have yet to get a steelie in the river with one.

[ 12-14-2001: Message edited by: bait boy ]</p>

[SandySteel]

I would think that the glass rods from Cabelas would work. Since graphite became the standard for rods, fiberglass seems to have lost favor. This is perplexing to me as there are many aspects to glass that I can't get from graphite. In particular I like the way that the tip of a glass rod can be limber and yet the butt of the rod can provide tremendous strength to control big fish. One advantage that newer glass rods that you buy will have is higher quality guides and seat. I have used an older honey colored fenwick blank for pulling plugs and it works awesome with both nooks and steelhead on the end of the line. A friend of mine picked up a Seeker downrigger blank and had it wrapped. He uses that to pull plugs with and it is sweet for how limber the tip is yet the butt has the strength of a tree.
The price sure looks right for those Cabela rods at $35.00. I would choose the 8' 12-30 lb rod as it has a longer butt for fighting larger fish. Thanks for pointing these out. I may have to pick up one to check it out.

Eric

[Pitch Pocket]

Are you pulling plugs behind an oared driftboat or are you backtrolling with a kicker?

When you are pulling plugs behind a sled or driftboat using a trolling motor, how far out do you put the plugs? Do you need more distance because of the sound of the motor?

[SandySteel]

Both, I haven't changed the length of line out because I am backtrolling with a motor. Perhaps I am wrong headed about this but I don't think that a kicker will disturb fish out 50 feet from the boat. Does anyone have a different opinion?

Eric

[FishinMission]

I like to go out farther than 50'. I do about 75'(If the spot allows), and get into fish there.

Maybe I could catch fish 50' from the boat, I dunno, but I don't wanna change what works for me!! :grin:

I like being out there a bit farther.

Mark

[HarpMan]

bait Boy, follow what Artwo has to say, but many have opinions still on siwash vs. treble. For me it has more to do with trolling or backtrollling along with the type of plug.

The HSR9000C is the plug rod of choice and some good mono that you can see with a added leader section of clear mono or florocarbon in not to small of diameter as well. I use 20lb. Start rowing...... and loose the achor.

Plunker, Author of Plug Fishng For Steelhead

[Spooled]

Sandysteel and Jay. I bought the exact Cabela's E-Glass rods you mention. They are WAY to stiff for plugging. I use Ugly Stick Lites on my boat 8'6". They work awesome and can get banged around on the boat without too much worry. You will take some ribbing for having Ugly Sticks until someone sees and uses them. They are about $65.00 at Bi-Mart. Don't try to use them for anything but plugging or diver and bait. They have no sensitivity for drift fishing.

I am sure the Loomis is an awesome rod, but when plulling plugs, you go under trees and around logs and I would hate to break a rod that expensive. I am pretty sure almost every drift boater has gotten into trees now and then.

[TH]

As far as rods go I like the TH 904.. 7'6" 6-14# fast action. (For hatchery steelies) I ues the TH 961c 8' 10-20# for native fish.
these rods have a soft tip and a good taper with enough backbone to get an initial hook set while in the rod holder.
We sell both rods for around $150-$160. GL3+ quality rods

I like a one piece rod, and prefer an 8' or less... www.thcustomrods.com

As for plugs, I like the Tadpolly, wiggle wart and hot shots in 30# , 35#. I seem to be drawn to met. pink and green, blue pirates (GO PIRATES) the copper tadpolly was our hot plug last year,
Pink worm behind divers have accounted for a lot of fish in my boat as well... probably becase my kids think they are cool and want to fish them over a plug :grin:
I also use a scent, shrimp or anchovie oil works well... I have also used anise and crawfish, anythink to mask you human scent.
I think a lot of plug pullers success comes from being able to fish water where fish are holding and being able to put the plug in their grill... take your time and watch your rods.

I always put my rods in the rod holders.

[Bob Barthlow]

THE BEST DON'T ALWAYS COST THE MOST G.LOOMIS MBR941C ITS A 7'10 1 Pc. EXFAST ACTION RATED TO 17lb. TEST ,LIGHT TIP,TONS OF BACKBONE. IT ONLY COMES IN GL2, BUT WHO CARES IT'S ONLY.....$135.00 WORK GREAT ON STEELHEAD ,COHO AND KINGS ,I HAVE UP TO 35LBERS ....TRY ONE......

[RichH]

Good tips TH. I would add that you should not tell everyone about the copper or even chrome plugs as we wouldn't want them all to catch our fish.

I too am a big fan of rodholders when plugging. I've seen too many times where a plug will dive behind a rock and stop swimming briefly and the natural response is to tug the rod tip to get it to swim again. DON'T DO IT!!!!let it sit for a moment, often times thats when mr chrome will grab on.

Another tip is don't burn the plug back to the boat when you're done with a slot. I've had fish in less than a foot of water grab it with only 6 feet of line out reeling it back slow. Its a kick to see a fish swim over and grab it like that. The hard part is to not set the hook to quick. :grin:

[Nookie Monster]

I love my HSR981C's I got from TH.

[Williedrifter]

Thanks spooled, guess i'll pass on the E-glass and keep a eye out for something else.