Plumbing - it never fails

ampersat · 03-28-2008, 07:45 PM

So, my project this weekend (in my open boat the weather of late isn't too much fun and besides, I'm on-call for work) is to re-tile the kitchen vanity. Simple enough project, right?

Well, of course, I go to shut off the water to the sink and I feel this grindy feeling in the hot supply valve. So I work the valve in and out a few times hoping to work out the scale or rust or whatever is trapped in there but it still leaks quite a bit when it should be closed. I've had this problem with pretty much every supply valve I've ever dealt with.

Is there any fix to something like this without having to replace the supply valve? I really hate working on plumbing and this just serves to reaffirm my hatred of plumbing.

Jsail · 03-28-2008, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ampersat

Is there any fix to something like this without having to replace the supply valve? I really hate working on plumbing and this just serves to reaffirm my hatred of plumbing.

Yes

Jaws · 03-28-2008, 08:23 PM

"Plumbing - it never fails"

Opps! Sorry, I thought this was a brag post!

fishboys · 03-28-2008, 09:48 PM

"in my open boat the weather of late isn't too much fun"

Sissy

StickFish · 03-28-2008, 10:00 PM

Sounds like you may have crap from the cold water input tube that has fallen apart and is caught in the valves. Check the screen on the faucet are the holes clogged with white stuff - odds are you hot water heater input tube has dissolved and clogged up everything - you hope

Its covered by a class action law suit - well at least the input tube or so I've been told George Morlans should have a bucket full of them.

Sucky part is you may have to turn the water off and disassemble the valve to clear the debris.

If not welcome to home ownership bro

djb · 03-28-2008, 10:27 PM

I am not a plumber Ampersat. That said, I too have had issues with my shutoff valves under my sink. I am afraid to remove the whole valve assy and then have it leak behind the wall. You can usually unscrew the shutoff valve lever and then unbolt the valve from its assy. Most of the time its just a matter of having some deteriorated o orings that can be replaced at a good hardware store.

ampersat · 03-29-2008, 06:05 AM

Ah, the ol' "deteriorating diptube". Certainly not a brag post.

Yep, my boss at work just went through the diptube exchange on his water heater and I'm thinking I probably need to do it on mine as well.

So, it sounds like there's no way to rectify the situation without actually getting into the valve. Thankfully it's on the hot side (lending credence to the diptube theory) so I can shut down water at the heater and do my work.

dre5063 · 03-29-2008, 07:24 AM

Plumbing...you start at the faucet and end up at the curb!!!

sandman · 03-29-2008, 07:41 AM

9 times out of 10 when you turn any shutoff valve under a fixture(sink,toilet) off you will need the tighten the packing nut under the handle.

ampersat · 03-29-2008, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dre5063

Plumbing...you start at the faucet and end up at the curb!!!

No doubt!

Jsail · 03-29-2008, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandman

9 times out of 10 when you turn any shutoff valve under a fixture(sink,toilet) off you will need the tighten the packing nut under the handle.

Now that the nut has been mentioned and you know that you can turn the water off at the water heater. Before you remove the old valve (also known as a STOP), take that packing nut off and remove the valve stem.
There is or was a washer at the end of the stem.
Any Ace hardware should have a replacement.
When you replace the stem make sure it's in the open position when you are tightening the packing nut.
The packing nut can be tightened to a point that you won't be able to turn the valve handle. When replace in full or part just snug it up until the water is on. If it drips tighten the nut a 1/4 turn. Check to see if you can still turn the handle.
When all is done open the valve all the way and then close it about a 1/4 turn. That will keep it from welding or corroding in the open position.
Try not to over tighten anything as you put it back together. It's allways easier to tighten it a bit more later than break or strip something.

baltz526 · 03-29-2008, 08:33 AM

exactly

fishkisser · 03-29-2008, 01:52 PM

Don't forget to grease the screw and other moving parts with valve grease ...

Nalu · 03-29-2008, 07:29 PM

Replace your old stops with new ones. New stops are available that are 1/4 turn and will eliminate future issues such as this. Ace may not have them, but any good plumbing distributor in town will have them...or.... PM me since I have a good supply of samples.

Residential plumbing is really pretty straight forward. Maybe a little intimidating at first, but really it's pretty easy.

Barviewrocks · 03-29-2008, 08:46 PM

I am not an expert plumber but I like those ball 90 degree shut off valves. Can you merely connect one to the existing valve and leave the valve on while using the new ball valve? You would shut off the entire house water at the main valve to replace it.

Just a thought....

Nalu · 03-30-2008, 07:56 PM

You need to replace the existing valve.

Determine what type of pipe your house is plumbed with.- Older house could be glavinized, in that case it will be a threaded stop. Newer houses will be in polybutylene, copper, CPVC or PEX.

At the same time, purchase an appropriate riser for the fixture. New flexible braided risers are very easy to install. Stops have a 3/8" outlet, and faucets usually have a 1/2" IPS inlet and Toilets are usually 7/8" IPS.

Shut water off at the street, open faucets in house to relieve pressure, place a tower on the floor under the old stop (for residual water) and remove the old stop. Pop the new one on, connect the riser, turn water back on.

If you have a new house plumbed in pex, then you may run into difficulty if you do not have the right tools, but you probably don't have angle stop problems either.