steelhead rod?

marky-sharky · 11-05-2001, 05:24 PM

I'm looking for a new steelhead rod and I have only one in mind so far. It's the GL3-9'6-medium. what do you think. let me know of another rod if you know of one please. thanks :whazzup:

jet · 11-05-2001, 05:29 PM

Nope there is no other rod, you got it. That is the one.

Unless you would like to spend $100 less you could buy a Lamiglass G1000 Med 8'6" wit lifetime warrenty.

Jet~~~

FM2 · 11-05-2001, 07:25 PM

MS, there are so many rods available today I know it can be a tough decision. Also the techniques for steelhead fishing vary which different rods have advantages over others. There are drift fishing rods, plug rods and jig rods. You didn't say if you were looking for an all around rod or a specific fishing type of rod.

I steelhead fish using the 3 different methods. I'm somewhat new at jig fishing and am considering the Loomis GL-3- 9'6" rod.

For pulling plugs I use a GL Loomis HSR 9000C 7'6" one piece rod. This has a very sensitive tip which promotes great plug action and I believe the one piece rods are better than the two piece for plugging due to their sensitivity.

For drift fishing I use a Lamiglass IM 86 MC-T 8'6" rod. A very sensitive graphite rod that that has a light tip. I can almost feel the bait dropping into a steelheads mouth. They also have a lifetime warranty and the factory is close by. The folks there have always treated me very well whenever I have had to take a rod in. No questions asked, awesome customer service.

Just a side note, if you take friends fishing that don't have any gear, the North X Northwest brand is pretty decent and you don't have to worry about the expensive gear getting beat up.

Hope this helps your search, Good Luck !

marky-sharky · 11-05-2001, 08:11 PM

I have heard that G-loomis has a don't ask don't tell warranty you can purchase for $50. So if you happen to slam it in a car door they still will refund you with a new one. Also is there a reel I should consider. I thought about getting the new shimono that just came out 3 months ago. I forgot the name but it's pretty sweet. Where should I get prices for this great investment of mine.

[ 11-05-2001: Message edited by: marky-sharky ]

Timber Man · 11-05-2001, 08:18 PM

Loomis GL3 1143 is without question the best steelhead rod made :grin: Its a 9'6" 6-12.I have
17 Loomis rods and that is my favorite.It's sensitive but has backbone..All around awesome rod!!!!!
:grin: TM

marky-sharky · 11-05-2001, 08:41 PM

Has anyone heard of D&E rods, out of Battle Ground,WA?

First Bite · 11-05-2001, 10:35 PM

I have two custom made steelhead rods from D&E. They do great work and have a lifetime warranty like most major brands.

Mark

TH · 11-06-2001, 06:02 AM

The 9'6" 6-12# 1143 is a great steelhead rod.
I would look into the Rainshadow blanks---- these are GL3 quality blanks w/ a much cheaper sticker price. Same warranties etc.

$165 for a TH 1143

parker · 11-06-2001, 08:06 AM

I don't own or use a custom Rainshadow rod, but I'd agree with TH on this one. I'd go for either an Allstar Elite or custom TH before buying a Loomis. Why pay for the brand name when you can get a better rod that is cheaper?

Lamiglass makes an OK rod, but nothing I'd be willing to buy these days.

Parker

THE REEL HEY_YALL · 11-06-2001, 09:34 AM

FM2 -
<blockquote>quote:<hr>I'm somewhat new at jig fishing and am considering the Loomis GL-3- 9'6" rod.<hr></blockquote>

Please tell me you aren't seriously going to drop $300+ dollars on a float rod. Float rods are easier to buy because it's pretty much got it's own strike indicator in the bobber. You can pick up good float rods for $50 or so.

17 Loomis rods! :shocked: Is that one rod for each of your Ferarris? :tongue: :tongue:

Backlash2 · 11-06-2001, 09:52 AM

Word up to the Redneck on this one......Some guys claim that they 'feel' the bite before it happens when bobber fishing

In my opinion, it's not possible. I have caught a lot of fish on jigs, and maybe I'm just not in that 'ZEN' mode with the touch yet, but it's all about the bobber. And my float rod is a Loomis, but only because I owned it for drift fishing before I started jig fishing. Sure, sometimes all the bobber does is float a half inch higher when a fish takes it, or it turns to the side a little without going down any, but 'feel' it.....no. The bobber is between you and the fish, it will move, maybe only a little bit, if there is anything there.
If you are buying this rod strictly for bobber fishing, don't waste so much dough.

You could effectively bobber fish with a 10' Snoopy rod if they made them.

FM2 · 11-06-2001, 10:03 AM

Hey Yall, I mentioned I was considering the Loomis rod and $300 isn't that much to spend for quality. I would rather spend a little more for better quality than a little less for the cheapo stuff. I was checking out the TH custom rod website today and their rods look very nice and have heard many good comments about them.

I'm finally loosening up my ways of drift fishing for steelie's and am interested in jig fishing. I have one of the jigs from Mark at First Cast and tried it this past Sunday but I'm waaay to green at this to be effective. What would you recommend for a nice rod and reel setup? :smile: Seems like a spinning reel would work very well which I don't own and a longer rod (10'). :whazzup:

Osprey · 11-06-2001, 12:50 PM

I'm confused :whazzup: ....again
do you want a rod for drifting or Float fishing?

If you want a drift rod for steelhead....GL-3 1143...DUH!!!!!

I agree you don't need to spend the wad for a float rod,my rod of choice is a Fenwick 10-5" HMX series matched with an Okuma epix 30.
I'm in the water for around 160 bucks.
But any rod thats at least 10" is OK,if you fish froma boat you can get by this length,
I'd like mine to be longer (don't we all)

the longer the rod you use the more control you have over you're float and fighting a fish,I'm surprised just how much pressure I can put on a fish with one of these rods even with 8lb test.

In order to feel a pick-up when float fishing,you must have all you're line out of the water and the design of you're float matters ..big time
some models don't relay signals like others....experiment.

I have felt fish take my jig before the float even moved.....these exceptions are rare

Thumper :a bait caster is preferd when fighting a fish,
but try casting a turbo-master with 1/16 oz jig,this is the only way you're gonna keep from spooking summeruns during those low-clear water days of Summer.......just my .02

after you check out the other brands look at these Jigsstill the best.....

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Osprey ]

FM2 · 11-06-2001, 01:37 PM

LOL......I'm getting confused :whazzup: by all the confusion :whazzup: floating around here.

Great diverse information for rods. I am looking for suggestions for a good bobber/jig rod for drifting jigs. I use my previous mentioned Lamiglass for drift fishing corkies, birdies and eggs with weights (slinkys). I strictly use level winds for this type of fishing and believe this is the only way to go. But try casting a jig with virtually no weight using a level wind, bird nest city!! :shocked: . Os eluded to this.

For plugging Loomis builds their HSR series (Hot Shot Rod) built specifically for pulling hot shots or warts. I use one and my hook up rate went up versus the previous rods I have used. I would not use a HSR rod for drift fishing.

The gist of a few suggestions say to buy a decent rod, don't spend big bucks, put the money into the reel and have a rod around 10'. This sounds like a great start for JIG fishing.

:grin: :grin:

Now the rest of the story.....JIGS!!!! :grin:

drifter · 11-06-2001, 06:24 PM

Marky - if you want sensitivity for drift fishing, try the Loomis IMX in 1082C 6-10 moderate action. Maximum feel but plently of backbone for winter steelhead. This rod increased my catch ratio by 40%+ javascript: x()
Cool

IMX is expensive, so I might try the Rainshadow from TH Custom Rods. I just received my first rainshadow from Travis and it has been great. Good luck, drifter.

marky-sharky · 11-06-2001, 06:40 PM

Is there going to be a table for TH costom rods at the tackle swap so I can check the rainbow's out.

Jennie@ifish · 11-06-2001, 06:48 PM

No, but I will have some of his things there, Marky Sharky.....
Look forward to meeting you!
:smile:
Jen

First Bite · 11-06-2001, 06:50 PM

I've seen a couple nice float rods that TH has made and I'm leaning towards them when I decide which float rod to get. I agree that you don't need a sensitive rod at all when float fishing. I have two GL2 blanks float rods that work great.

Mark

TH · 11-06-2001, 07:03 PM

Sorry guys, I won't be able to make the swap meet this time..
Check out Jennie's stuff.. I'm sending a rod her way as well as some cards...

Backlash2 · 11-06-2001, 11:14 PM

Quality is in the eye of the beholder...why do you think Redneck's girlfriend's are so cheesy...they're cheap, but HE thinks they're quality :tongue:
The point here is that you won't notice a difference between expensive and cheap in casting a jig and bobber. You won't notice a difference in fighting a fish.

The reasons to buy a top of the line rod are as follows;
1.) Feel- As sensitive as possible to allow you to feel every bit of the bottom, and anything that differs from it.
2.) Build- To get a truly great plugging rod, with a very sensitive tip that will show you exactly how your plug is working, grafted into a stiffer butt section that can handle big, hot fish, you gotta spend the greenbacks.

A high end rod gives you no benefit bobber fishing. **** , the high modulus graphite that they build them out of is probably less durable than a cheaper rod.

Quality to me is spending a lot of my hard earned money when I have to, and ALWAYS getting the best bang for my buck. If I was going to buy a rod today stictly for bobber fishing, it would cost less than 80 bucks.

And NO, a Loomis sticker on your rod does not make you catch more fish. It won't make you an outcast on the river, either.....as long as you are still catching fish, that is.

BTW- REELS on the other hand......spend the money. A cheap rod will land as many fish as an expensive one. A cheap reel.... :shocked:

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Backlash2 ]

Thumper · 11-06-2001, 11:56 PM

Good advice from Backlash. I'll add only that I still have no clue as to why anyone would want to use a spinning reel for bobber/jig fishing. A levelwind allows so much more control. It isn't necessary to cast light weights for winter steelies --- I use a 6-8 shot (big) slinky and huff that thing clear across the crick. Any quality levelwind will do since you will not be tossing light weight. Then free-drift that thing 'til you can't see it any more. It's the easiest way in the world to catch steelhead.

marky-sharky · 11-07-2001, 12:24 PM

So how are these rainbows blanks for drift fishing. Sorry but we have two guys looking for two different rods. some other guy is looking for a float rod still, and everyone has told him it dosn't really matter. SOO for drift fishing i'm looking for some sensitive action, with some with some lenght to the rod, and some backbone to set the hook. very well now I can go catch some steelhead, without-without-without-a float.

TH · 11-07-2001, 12:57 PM

Well I disagree 100%

I think a light rod does make a difference when float fishing... try holding a heavy, 10'+ fast action rod over you head all day.. try mending line w/ an extra fast action rod.
The lighter the rod, the better float fisherman you will be.
The Rainshadow blanks are very light and make float fishing/drift fishing easy.. w/ enough power to set the hook hard, yet light enough to fish all day and feel the smallest nibbes.
As for drift rods, they are awesome. Fast action but w/ great tips, extermely light and sensitive.
I hope this helps..