What equipment or supplies do you carry to get runnning again?

[Randy]

I had an interesting experience when the CG towed me in and the inspection was very interesting. There were no fines and because I asked they gave me a few POINTERS or PEARLS.

So the question is kind of like for your ditch bag, what extra supplies or equipment do you have on board to try to make those repairs to get running. If I would have had one just of these on board at the time, I would have saved me and CG alot of time on the water.

This list should be just as IMPORTANT at the ditch bag list:

Corks up to 4 inch (tip from commercial fisherman)
Oil (Motor or Mix 1 gal of each if needed)
Fuel line (5 foot)
Hose Clamps
Cinch straps 2 (tip from boat builder steering bracket broke)
Wire
Spare Pump (Hand or Power keep portable)

Lets add to this or if there is a good one, maybe it could be posted or better directed to.

Randy

[Chromaflage]

Here are some things I keep on board for my I/O:

Fan/Alternator Belts
Extra points/condensor/cap/rotor
Fuel filter (carb)
Motor Oil
Fuel Line
Hose Clamps
Duct Tape
Wire/Fuses
Spark plugs
Starting fluid
Brake cleaner
Hydraulic fluid

I need to add:
Rescue Tape
JB Weld
That wonder putty stuff
Corks
Patch stuff that can be applied under water

[Reelentless]

antifreeze
raw water impellor

[Metal Manipulator]

Those listed above and add a Starter.

[Pilar]

From the convention .. repairs at sea. I've been fixing stuff under less than ideal conditions for a long time here is what I think. I can email you the word file. Here's the list I handed out.

Anyone operating a boat on the ocean is best prepared if they have the means to make repairs while underway. The reasons for this are pretty obvious but you may as well plan to be alone if you are boating far from shore. I have seen repeatedly, some situations on boats that were very easy to overcome but not with the leather man tool and duct tape that was on the boat. They got towed. Really simple things can disable a boat. And as you know once you go dead in the water your situation can degrade quickly if there is any weather.

With a few tools, supplies and some planning a breakdown can be repaired and the boat returns to shore under it’s own power with everyone dry and happy. Practice a few basic repairs by doing your own maintenance and take advantage of the practice effect. Changing fan-belts, fuel filters and engine oil will familiarize you with your engine and other parts of your boat. You should know where each water overboard, isolation valve, fuse, switch, battery and pump is located on your boat.

At times several problems occur together so it is very important to figure out what your biggest problem is. Scenarios you may encounter include a leak or flooding, fire, bent or fouled prop, electrical problems, broken or slipping engine belts, plugged or failed bilge pumps. Things may work loose, especially in rough weather. These are the basics and preparing for these scenarios will enable you to deal with other unforeseeable problems.

General points.
Know how to obtain your location and the basic radio procedures and teach at least one other person on the boat. Make PFDs part of any emergency plan during boat problems. The best thing is to check each person for PFD fit at the before trip safety briefing. Review emergency procedures and equipment locations during the safety briefing. Any unexpected situation can quickly degrade your ability to contact and report. Make radio contact a priority and give the job to one of the crew not involved with repairs or damage control. Simple repairs are the most practical in almost all conditions. More complicated stuff like taking apart something and fixing it is only possible on a calm day. Much of your repair ability is based on knowing what normal boat operation looks like and understanding the difference between the problem and it’s symptoms.

I recommend carrying a box of supplies, the tool kit and the spare parts in a separate water resistant package on any boat trip. The size of the boat will set limits on what you can bring. But even on the smallest boat you can be ready to fix simple problems. With practice you can become good at it. What you need to have on the boat will become obvious as you use your tools. Adjust your McGyver kit as you see fit.

Toolbox
The best boat toolbox is simple, reliable and inexpensive and made of plastic. A lift out tray is a good feature. You really don’t need to bring everything. Depending on your power-plant you will need Metric or SAE tools. Some boats require both. Here is a list of what I consider a complete tool box for an inboard or I/O powered boat. An Outboard will require some other tools as well. Gather your tools and then find a box to hold them.

Screwdrivers
Slotted: 1/4" x 8", 3/16" x 4", 1/8" x 4", 1/8" x 2",
Phillips: #3 x 6", #2 x 6", #2 x 4", #1 x 4", #0 x 2 1/2"

Allen sets
SAE -.028",.035",.050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8"
Metric - 0.7mm, 0.9mm, 1.3mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.0mm, 5.5mm, 6.0mm, 7.0mm, 8.0mm, 10.0mm.

Combo wrenches
SAE - 1/4", 5/16”, 11/32”, 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2", 9/16”, 5/8”, 11/16”, 3/4", 13/16”, 7/8”, 15/16”, 1”
Metric sizes: 6 to 22MM

Sockets
3/8” drive, include spark plug socket(s) and extensions.
SAE - 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2", 9/16”, 5/8”, 11/16”, 3/4"
Metric – 6 to 19

1/2" drive, include prop hub socket and extensions.
SAE - 9/16”, 5/8”, 11/16”, 3/4", 13/16”, 7/8”, 15/16”, 1”
Metric – 14 to 25MM

Other
Hammer, dead blow and 2 lb, Web type strap wrench or band type to fit oil and fuel filters, Channel locks, Crescent wrench 6“, 12“, needle nose pliers, vice grip pliers, side cutting pliers, wire strippers, lug crimper, electrical tester, flashlight(s), pry-bar.

Parts
Replacements for common failure items on the boat. On an I/O boat that would be an extra ignition pickup and computer engine control sensors.

Fuses, several in all sizes and types on the boat, instrument bulbs, trailer bulbs, box of electrical connectors, electrical tape, box of assorted fasteners.

The old set of engine belts that are still good. Stock as spares, they fit.
Fuel Filters, trailer bearings and seals, spare boat drain plug.

Supplies
I consider this the minimum but weight is a consideration.
Scotchbrite, assorted stainless steel hose clamps, stainless steel wire, Duct tape, rags, gasket material, rubber sheet (inner-tube), rescue tape, tapered wood plugs, hose sections.

Replacement fluids, sealed new bottle of antifreeze, engine oil, hydraulic oil, 2 stroke oil penetrating oil, Brake-kleen, hand cleaner, and other stuff.

[Something Good]

While having tools and supplies out on the water is important most breakdowns could have been prevented by maintaining and inspecting your boat regularly. I work for a fleet shop and our emergency repairs have gone down by 93% since we started a more stringent maintanence program.

[Bluefinn]

Everything listed above and Spare nuts for the starter you will drop one or two while bouncing around,a pry bar to put tension on the alternater,spare hose asst,extra wire,trim fluid power steering fluid,fuel filter,cap and rotor plug wire at least one long one,spare prop and all the nuts, spacers ,washers etc.Mask and snorkle for the quick dip to free the down rigger cable from the prop,battery jumper box,old fan belts,

[retaliate]

Pull start rope, wet/dry suit for in water repairs.

[Tip-Sea]

I'm an I/O guy with a small block chevy so parts are very common and cheap. I have a extra starter, altenator, Distributor, plugs, gaskets, belts, hoses, etc. And of course all the tools to change everything. Plus a 15 horse 4 stroke merc to back me up. But I'm confused on one thing.... Corks? what are you guys using them for? My only guess is holes in the hull.

[Bluefinn]

You got it water leaking in the boat can ruin your day.

[Green Machine]

Most of the above plus an extra prop and a handfull of prop nuts and lock rings. (Don't ask on the extra prop nuts....)

Green Machine

[WP]

An added caution is to maintain your tools and spare parts. The ocean is a very caustic environment! Oil tools or coat with some rust/corrosion inhibiter, keep dry (seal in vacuum bags if stored for long term), check frequently and replce as needed (once tools rust, they continue unless COMPLETELY dry and protected), keep lots of WD40 or equivilent on board (several cans as they too are subject to rust issues!), know where you keep spares and tools, be neat so you can locate and not loose tools (don't ask me how I know this ): ), the dry silica (or whatever it is) packages help with moisture, dry tools with DRY rag (you do keep a sealed bags of rags on board, right?), have a long 10/12 gage length of wire with aligator clips on both ends to act as a quick connector bypass for electrical circuits that have failed, have all paper material sealed in vacuum bags (manuals etc) or laminated commercially, and I would repeat the advice to do your PMs EVERY trip, check everything you can think of for wear, corrosion, rust, and breaks. A boat that does what we ask of ours takes and deserves good care!
Dave

[Capt Bob]

Dont forget WD-40 is your friend. It will dissapate water and free up stuck parts from corrosion.

[fish_on]

I think the inboard guys have more parts to carry than us outboard guys. On an outboard changing a starter, belt, or water pump are pretty much unrealistic. Electrical, prop, and fuel filter issues are what we face that can be really addressed at sea. I carry extra fuel filters/hose, fuses, wire, connectors, spark plugs, and a prop and all parts to replace a prop. If this can't fix it I'm either headed in on the kicker or being towed.

[Tinman]

I agree that there are fewer parts to carry with an outboard, especially the old two-stroke type. No starter is required because of the emergency rope-start feature. There are no belts. Some fuel hose might be a good idea, but there is an abundance of that aboard already. And I'm not sure I could change a prop without getting in the water.

Spare parts boil down to a set of spark plugs and engine fuses. And of course a well-stocked junk box with wire, connectors, electrical tape, tie wraps, hose clamps, etc.

[Elkiller]

One extra - fully charged car battery. Borrow it from your truck when you leave the dock. Saved my bacon twice.

[Taylor's viewpoint]

A tarp can be used to plug a hole in the hull. Tie rope on each end of the tarp and slip it over the bow and walk it back until it is over the hole in hull. It may not plug the hole but it will slow the flow of water and give you some time until help arrives.
TV