Reloading

[fillet&release]

I am interested in getting into reloading and have no equip. looking for advice on equip that is reasonably priced and fairly easy to learn how to use thanks.

[dla]

Think Lee.

I suggest you go Midwayusa and look at the Lee starter kits. They are high quality and much, much cheaper than RCBS. RCBS is much over-hyped, and you pay more for nothing. If want something higher class than Lee, go straight to Dillon.

For some reviews of Lee stuff take a look at Realguns.

I've been reloading for a long time and the only time I don't buy Lee is when they don't have what I want.

Also I seriously suggest you consider skipping the "single stage" press - and I know your going to get a lot of "buy a Rockchucker" suggestions. A turret press is much faster and Lee makes a good one.

[Hunt'nFish]

Here's some info: IFish Reloading Search

Getting about time to schedule this year's Handloading Seminar. Be sure to get in on that.

As far as equip, I personally am not disappointed with any of my RCBS equipment. But have not been impressed with the two Lee presses I've owned and their powder measure sucks. That being said, I do like their dies and own a pile of them. And I do like their Auto-Disk powder measures...in fact I have a couple sitting on my two Dillon Progressives.

My advice....buy a cast iron "O" press. Lyman, RCBS, Hornaday, Redding...take your pick. The old Lyman turret press is also useful for semi-progressive pistol loading.

Buy used if possible, but sometimes it's hard to know what all you'll need unless you've done some reading & research. In some cases you mght be better off buying a RCBS KIT on sale...~$175-199 at BiMart.
Hunt'nFish

[James in Idaho]

Handgun or rifle? If you're wanting to load handgun a progressive press is the way to go. I loaded so many .38's and .357's on a single stage press I traded off the revolver and shoot .22's now. I'm a big green fan (RCBS), there are a couple of good Lee items down on my bench. The primer tool has worked great for years. No need to buy brand new, presses are pretty common at gun shows, used to see 'em on ebay, pawn shops if you can stand to go in one. I've had my RCBS press for 25 or so years, never a hiccup.

[Bait O' Eggs]

I had a lee press, I threw it away, I didnt feel right selling the *** to somebody else.

I dont have the need for the Dillon stuff, but I do like my RCBS equipment. It always works, and well.

There is a reason there are so many Rockchuckers out there.

Loading lots of pistol shells on the single stage press does suck. Even worse if you are hand weighing each load and not using a powder thrower.

[Quaka Wacka]

I'd suggest getting in on Hunt'nFish's Handloading seminar.

I'm a fan of RCBS for a press and like the hornady custom grade dies. When you get into the other tools (and there are a lot) each company has thier good and bad.
As far as equiptment, it depends on what you are reloading for. Rifle or Pistol? And how concerned with accuracy are you? A single stage press is the way to go as far as learning and will usually yield the best accuracy.. A progressive s faster, but a little more intimidating for the begginer and more exspensive. Buying a single stage that you can upgrade to a progressive later is also a way to go, if you are concerned about speed. Like mike said, a RCBS starter kit from Bi-mart is tough to beat. And it won't take very long to make it worth the money at todays ammo prices.

[Quack Attack]

I'd suggest listening to whatever Hunt'nFish has to say... he really knows his stuff.

What are you thinking of reloading?

side note: I like really well made stuff. as a rule I hate dealing with broken or failing equipment so I tend to spend a little more than is necessary.

For pistol, Dillon or RCBS progressive, even a cheap model dillon is great.

For Rifle, RCBS or Redding (I REALLY want a redding turret press...)

For shotgun, Ponsness Warren

I do use a lee press for a priming tool, but due to the sloppy tolerances I would never use it to size or seat bullets.

Powder measure, I like Hornady or RCBS, or Redding

Dies, don't really matter, but Redding have the tightest tolerances in standard grade (you don't need competition grade), both RCBS and Hornady are good quality.

Scale, lots of options out there, but I would not load anymore if I didn't have a digital scale.

I would not hesitate to buy RCBS, Hornady, Redding, Dillon, or Ponsness-Warren used. They are all rock solid and can be fixed/upgraded if for some reason something doesn't work, I would be careful if buying Lee, Mec, or even some lyman stuff used.

Be ready to spend some time... it is almost as addictive of a hobby as hunting

[Killertraylor]

Here it comes....get a rockchucker! Seriously, you can find good deals on RCBS stuff on ebay, and their new in the box dies are reasonably priced (even Walmart has most of them). Hornady makes some good dies too. I used the RCBS basic press for years (can't remember the name of it - just a bit smaller and cheaper than a rockchucker) and then was going through some old boxes in storage and found a like new Rockchucker that I didn't even remember having. The smaller one worked fine, but the rockchucker is smoother. Midway USA is a great place to buy all of your accessories - the places around town here have bits and pieces, but always seem to be out of the one powder, die set, or tool that I want.

The essentials:
Press
Dies
Powder scale
funnel for putting powder in case
Block/tray to hold cases
chamfering tool to smooth out burrs on case neck
flash hole reamer/uniformer
lube pad and case lube
nylon brush to lube inside of case neck
primer tray to dump them in and turn them all the same direction
Calipers to measure overall case length
Powder tumbler to top off each measured load

Not essential, but will make things a lot easier once decide reloading is for you:
* Powder dispenser (can be adjusted to throw a certain weight of powder, plus or minus 3 grains or so - still need to weigh)
* Case trimmer
* digital scale (I've loaded thousands of rounds without one and still don't have one)
* Tumbler and media to polish and clean your brass
* Stoney point compariter to measure length of bullet from ogive
* Stoney point tool to measure chamber length
* Reloading manual where you can record your loads and results

I'm sure others will add to this list. Reloading is great - so many variables, and a great stress reliever - gets my mind off everything. I love it.

[fillet&release]

Thanks for all the input i am looking at reloading rifle rounds mainly for my newly purchased 220swift but would like to be able to use it for my 300wsm and 7mm-08 and what ever other center fires i add to my collection

[Thunnus]

They didn't answer the question on what they are going to reload. Maybe they were talking about shotgun shells!


The comment on the Lee powder measure I will agree a 100%. It is plastic and it leaks!!!!!

[scottishsetter]

Hornady or Redding dies.
Redding 7 position press OR
RockChucker
RCBS powder dispenser/scale no other brand(check out reviews)
A good dial caliper
Powder funnel
Loading Blocks
Cases
Bullets
Imperial Sizing wax/Isoprpyl alcohol to degrease
Good Luck

[DAB]

Originally Posted by Killertraylor

Here it comes....get a rockchucker! Seriously, you can find good deals on RCBS stuff on ebay, and their new in the box dies are reasonably priced (even Walmart has most of them). Hornady makes some good dies too. I used the RCBS basic press for years (can't remember the name of it - just a bit smaller and cheaper than a rockchucker) and then was going through some old boxes in storage and found a like new Rockchucker that I didn't even remember having. The smaller one worked fine, but the rockchucker is smoother. Midway USA is a great place to buy all of your accessories - the places around town here have bits and pieces, but always seem to be out of the one powder, die set, or tool that I want.

The essentials:
Press
Dies
Powder scale
funnel for putting powder in case
Block/tray to hold cases
chamfering tool to smooth out burrs on case neck
flash hole reamer/uniformer
lube pad and case lube
nylon brush to lube inside of case neck
primer tray to dump them in and turn them all the same direction
Calipers to measure overall case length
Powder tumbler to top off each measured load
Case trimmer or file trim die Added by DAB
Not essential, but will make things a lot easier once decide reloading is for you:
* Powder dispenser (can be adjusted to throw a certain weight of powder, plus or minus 3 grains or so - still need to weigh)
I put case trimmer up to the essentials list DAB did this
* digital scale (I've loaded thousands of rounds without one and still don't have one)
* Tumbler and media to polish and clean your brass
* Stoney point compariter to measure length of bullet from ogive
* Stoney point tool to measure chamber length
* Reloading manual where you can record your loads and results

I'm sure others will add to this list. Reloading is great - so many variables, and a great stress reliever - gets my mind off everything. I love it.

It is impairitive that the length of your cases are kept to within specks per loading manual.

DAB

[dla]

Regarding the Lee powder measure: it costs $20. It works great with stick and short stick powders. It doesn't work good with fine ball powders like AA#5 - I can't remember how well it worked with H335, which is the only rifle-class ball powder you might ever use with the swift. I know I've used it for H335, but memory is the first thing to fail....

The Lee cast iron 4-hole turret press (manual indexing) is less than half the cost of the RCBS equivalent.

You can have new Lee for the price of Ebay RCBS.

[Don Fischer]

I have used Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Herter, Dillon, Mec Ponsness-Warren, Texan,,,about everything. The Lee kit works but the scale and the powder measure are junk. The hand primer tool is great. Cast iron "O" frame press, brand doesn't matter that much. Lee dies are alright as are most all others I've used. For finish, I like Redding. Been usinf RCBS a lot of years, have Lymans and they are fine. I'm even still using some Herter dies. With what ever kit you get, also get a case trimmer if it's not included and a caliper to measure cases and a de-burr tool.

[bigjake_888]

Skipping allthe other stuff: Trying to reload without calipers is a fools task. Powder trickler is a must. I remember starting to reload without these two items and laugh at my feable attempt in retrospect. I remember pulling grains of powder out of my scale and trying to put some back in with my fingers and a teaspoon prior to my trickler. Funny.

I also remember trying to diagnose a problem without calipers. That was enough to drive you to drink.

If you buy the rockchucker kit please pick up these two items and spare yourself some pain.

Redneck Bullet Puller: Channel locks and rock chucker press. You figure out the rest. "gave that one up too for a collet puller"

Ther is an edless amount of stuff to buy.

[SansooShooter]

HI ALL...

So Hunt n fish what is this handloading seminar? Do tell all the details.

[AyeFish]

You wanna produce a lot of amo fast, and not try to shoot dime sized groups? Get a progressive press.

You want to shoot dime sized groups? Get a single stage press, and do everything the same with every round.

I completely quit reloading because I found a lot of the factory amo is just as good as my meticuously measured handloads. Animals don't care if they got hit by a handload or factory amo.

But for mass production like for my AR15, I use my brother's progressive Dillon. Relaoding pays off if you reload a LOT, or if you shoot competitively. Otherwise, it's a #@%$ing waste of time.

[EvilD]

Micrometer (calipers) are a must. Also get an 'over all length gauge' you'll be guessing without it and it'll give you a good starting point to work with.
One other thing is maybe think about bedding your action (FULL) in your stock. I would suggest trigger work also but I don't know what your intentions are with the rifle and reloading can only go so far in a factory rifle. I have found in the past that load development is a science. Buy the best measuring devices you can afford. Case neck thickness, case length, flash hole, etc. are all variables that can make a good load shoot differently from cartridge to cartridge.

Happy plinking,

D

[Killertraylor]

Originally Posted by AyeFish

Relaoding pays off if you reload a LOT, or if you shoot competitively. Otherwise, it's a #@%$ing waste of time.

That's not really a fair statement. It's true in the sense that it really doesn't save you much money unless you reload a lot, but I'd never consider it a waste of time. I think most people who do it get a lot of satisfaction from the meticulous process that pays off in small groups. Sure, 1-2 inch groups from factory ammo are accurate enough for 90% of game hunting, but I believe reloading gives me the extra confidence to make great shots under extreme conditions, plus I get a lot of satisfaction knowing I did it myself. Saying it's a waste of time is kinda like saying fishing is a waste of time because you can buy fish cheaper than the boat and gear cost....it's all a matter of what you get your enjoyment out of.

[ArcheryHunter]

I have a 60 year old hornady single stage press that a friend of my Dad gave me. All dies are mostly RCBS. I still need a case trimmer but if I had to do it all over again I would do a Dillon.

[mikelee]

I have a Lee classic turret that I load for pistol calibers. Go buy a reloading book before starting.

[mikelee]

Also, find a friend who reload or go to the high road or firing line gun forum for lots of infos for beginner.

[FromTheWoods]

I'm in Redmond. I'd invite you over to use my equipment so you can see what is involved, and get a look at what you would need. --But someone over in Salem must reload and be open to having you over to see how it's done!

I'd recommend just getting set up with a RCBS kit, if you can't find someone selling a complete used setup. The RCBS will last longer than you will. You will have the manual and equipment to reload safely.

If you'd like to cross the mountains to reload, PM me. We'll make arrangements.

[billc_sbio]

quote=Don Fischer;1885458]I have used Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Herter, Dillon, Mec Ponsness-Warren, Texan,,,about everything. The Lee kit works but the scale and the powder measure are junk. The hand primer tool is great. Cast iron "O" frame press, brand doesn't matter that much. Lee dies are alright as are most all others I've used. For finish, I like Redding. Been usinf RCBS a lot of years, have Lymans and they are fine. I'm even still using some Herter dies. With what ever kit you get, also get a case trimmer if it's not included and a caliper to measure cases and a de-burr tool.[/quote]



Ed Zachary what Don said!

[SlyHawk]

Get a book or book's Such as "The ABC's of Reloading" by Dean A. Grennell.
Great book for beginners, and advanced as well.

[GSD]

Originally Posted by Finlander

Get a book or book's Such as "The ABC's of Reloading" by Dean A. Grennell.
Great book for beginners, and advanced as well.

Good advice Finlander. From the simplest design to the more elaborate units, one thing still remains, any color will get you to the dance but if you don't know how to operate it properly you will stumble and fall on your face.

[Hunt'nFish]

Originally Posted by Finlander

Get a book or book's Such as "The ABC's of Reloading" by Dean A. Grennell.
Great book for beginners, and advanced as well.

No reloading bench is complete w/o this book.

As far as the Reloading Seminar.....stay tuned, I'll throw a thread up for that.
Great info for the beginner and the advanced reloader.
We'll go through the basics of reloading as well as advanced load evaluation procedures.
This year I'd also like to go into progressive presses but not sure if I can squeeze it into one day....might have to do a Day 2 for that.
Hunt'nFish

[Old Goat]

What kind of techniques will produce more accurate ammunition?

I am looking for long range accuracy for hunting with a 338 win mag. I realize that bullet selection is important with high coefficient number. When you look at reloading charts there is a huge variance in accuracy with various loads. Is there a pattern or is it a function of the personality of your gun?

[Hunt'nFish]

Originally Posted by Old Salt

What kind of techniques will produce more accurate ammunition?

Two words......CASE PREP.


Same lot cases, preferably once fired in that rifle. Neck sized, trimmed & sorted by weight
Uniformed primer pockets, and uniformed flash holes.....not to be mistaken with deburing flash holes. Simply deburing w/o uniforming will many times do more harm than good. The RCBS flash hole deburring tool that indexes off the case mouth SUCKS and will do more harm than good. A good Sinclair tool than indexes off the inside of the case base is as close to perfect as you can get.

Remember the word SINCLAIR when looking for precision reloading case prep tools. Money well spent!

You can get away with a little powder measurement error, but case prep reigns KING in the world of accuracy.

IMO, the other area often overlooked in hunting rifle accuracy is load development. Every barrel, powder and bullet combo has a SWEET spot for velocity. This is where barrel harmonics come into play. The thinner the barrel the more this is an issue. Long Thin barrels vibrate more than short thick barrels. Adjusting powder charge (ie, velocity) up or down based on temp conditions will show on paper target.

This is why I'm a big advocate of handload evaluation procedures.
Finding the PERFECT recipe is no accident if you go about it right.
All will be covered in the Handloading Seminar.
Hunt'nFish

[James in Idaho]

Another really good book is any of the Nosler manuals, lots of info even in the older ones. I'm just shocked to learn that you "need" a trickler, here I've been reloading since about 1974 and I've never used a trickler. I have an RCBS powder measure, seems very consistant. I will admit the I don't push the envelope on max loads however.

[dla]

Originally Posted by James in Idaho

Another really good book is any of the Nosler manuals, lots of info even in the older ones. I'm just shocked to learn that you "need" a trickler, here I've been reloading since about 1974 and I've never used a trickler. I have an RCBS powder measure, seems very consistant. I will admit the I don't push the envelope on max loads however.

You need a trickler when you are using a powder/cartridge combination where the few tenths of a grain inaccuracy of powder dispensors matters.

A guy finds a sweet spot with exactly 43.5grains of H4198 and later discovers he can hit the same sweet spot with 55 - 57 grains of H4895. One he has to trickle to, the other he can just throw and use. When a guy eases up a bit he can focus on the more important task of learning to shoot.

And even funnier to me are all the guys who spend a $100 on a powder dispensor which is no more accurate than the $20 Lee. And then end up using a trickler.

But reloading is an end to itself for some - they just like to fondle each cartridge. For others it is a matter of control. And for others it is just a huge cost savings. Women do scrapbooking, guys reload.

[scottishsetter]

I use a 'dipper'/'Shovel' 5" long with approx. 1/2"X1/8" shovel at the end. Oh and it's silver I dip and trickle single grains and can see them add to the total on the digital scale.

[billc_sbio]

Originally Posted by Hunt'nFish

Two words......CASE PREP.


Same lot cases, preferably once fired in that rifle. Neck sized, trimmed & sorted by weight
Uniformed primer pockets, and uniformed flash holes.....not to be mistaken with deburing flash holes. Simply deburing w/o uniforming will many times do more harm than good. The RCBS flash hole deburring tool that indexes off the case mouth SUCKS and will do more harm than good. A good Sinclair tool than indexes off the inside of the case base is as close to perfect as you can get.

Remember the word SINCLAIR when looking for precision reloading case prep tools. Money well spent!

You can get away with a little powder measurement error, but case prep reigns KING in the world of accuracy.

IMO, the other area often overlooked in hunting rifle accuracy is load development. Every barrel, powder and bullet combo has a SWEET spot for velocity. This is where barrel harmonics come into play. The thinner the barrel the more this is an issue. Long Thin barrels vibrate more than short thick barrels. Adjusting powder charge (ie, velocity) up or down based on temp conditions will show on paper target.

This is why I'm a big advocate of handload evaluation procedures.
Finding the PERFECT recipe is no accident if you go about it right.
All will be covered in the Handloading Seminar.
Hunt'nFish

THREE words "Case Prep" and "Uniformity"!

Trying to make EVERYTHING as close to identical from cartridge to cartridge as possible. Exact OAL of Brass, Exact WEIGHT of each Case, Exact WEIGHT of each Bullet, Exact same Powder Charge weight, Exact same pass through the same die and Exact same Lots of Cartridges, Bullets, Powder and Primers.

[EvilD]

Hunt & Fish, good call on case prep. Thats where the meticulous procedures pay off. I use a powder trickler to fine tune each charge. I start with about .5gr off of desired charge and then trickle in the rest on a scale.




D

[bigjake_888]

In the last year I have dived into reloading and I have leared one very important thing. If you want to shoot the best you can you have to buy the best you can. If you buy anything else you will buy it twice.

[Don Fischer]

Someone said they have a 60 yr old Hornady press. I'd like to see a photo of that. Didn't know they made them that long ago.

Early on in reloading, I would not concern myself as much with case prep excepting length, as I would with seating depth. Case prep will not gain as much overall as will seating depth. If you seat the bullet out to far and engage the rifling, pressure goes up. If you seat the bullet to deep, accuracy can fall off. In case prep you can really get carried away and never realize much more than a couple 10th's of an inch in accuracy. Important to a match shooter, not a hunter.

The most important thing for the beginner is to learn to make good safe loads and how to approach maximun loads. It's almost a given that once you reach that point you'll start experminting for more accuracy. But then you'll do it with a much better knowledge of pressure and how to control it.

[AyeFish]

Originally Posted by Killertraylor

That's not really a fair statement. It's true in the sense that it really doesn't save you much money unless you reload a lot, but I'd never consider it a waste of time. I think most people who do it get a lot of satisfaction from the meticulous process that pays off in small groups. Sure, 1-2 inch groups from factory ammo are accurate enough for 90% of game hunting, but I believe reloading gives me the extra confidence to make great shots under extreme conditions, plus I get a lot of satisfaction knowing I did it myself. Saying it's a waste of time is kinda like saying fishing is a waste of time because you can buy fish cheaper than the boat and gear cost....it's all a matter of what you get your enjoyment out of.

I'd have to agree. I'm willing to drive 50 miles to catch a nice pan of trout. Good anology. I should have said FOR ME, it's a waste of time. BTW, some of the factory amo shoots consistently, like 20 round 1-inch groups out of my '06. Yeah, 20 rounds. Stock savage rifle, no improvements. I simply gave up trying to improve on it.

[baltz526]

bullet selection for a 220 swift is an important aspect. when you read your brand new reloading books (2 or 3 at least, hodgdon, nosler, lyman are the 3 i would recomend) don't pick a 40gr at 4500fps try some long bullets 52gr and up. the longest bullet your rifle will stabilize will be a good choice

[mstarck]

Looks like these guys about covered everything.just remember when you head out to the range to have access to a chronogragh.reloading is a shot in the dark if you can't document the result.I started reloading last year for rifle and have a redding turret press (holds three sets of dies)and bought a bench and all the goodys .spent about $1000.00 ,but you can do a LOT better than that with a little shopping.estate sales are a good place to look. i am in salem if you want PM me anytime.do you belong to four corners gun club?

mike s.

[SlyHawk]

One thing I like about reloading is making your own best load. Kinda like tying your own fly's. One thing I know is there are no "Holly Grails" to hand loading. Keep me informed if this has changed?? Please---------

[Big Billy]

Get ya a rock chuck from RCBS a good scale a powder thrower and a debuurer and chamferer and a good friend that knows his stuff and be careful and have fun, it is really rewarding to load up a great/accurate bullet and make a one shot kill!!

[guitgary]

I'm sure I'm the only one on the planet that has had problems with Dillon's customer service...but...here goes.

Spent $140 on one of their electronic scales. It is used in a room without drafts or other annoyances that can cause problems with scales.

The thing will absolutely not hold zero. I have calibrated it until my calibrating finger is sore...still no help. I then called Dillon "Customer Service" department. A guy who was obviously put out that I would dare question his equipment told me to "let it warm up for 15 minutes or so..to let the software set" ???? huh? Well, I dutifully did exactly what he said...no help. Here comes call number 2 to Dillon. This guy (Patick is his name) tells me that I need to zero the scale after each time I weigh something. When I asked if he was kidding or if there was a hidden camera in my office filming this for an episode of Candid Camera...he told me that this was the only way to ensure accuracy. I asked him why this was not pointed out in the instructions...he agreed!!!

Needless to say, a "high end" company like this can afford not having my dollars any further.

I use a mixture of Hornady dies and an RCBS Rock Chucker Press...works fine for me.

[billc_sbio]

Originally Posted by guitgary

I'm sure I'm the only one on the planet that has had problems with Dillon's customer service...but...here goes.

Spent $140 on one of their electronic scales. It is used in a room without drafts or other annoyances that can cause problems with scales.

The thing will absolutely not hold zero. I have calibrated it until my calibrating finger is sore...still no help. I then called Dillon "Customer Service" department. A guy who was obviously put out that I would dare question his equipment told me to "let it warm up for 15 minutes or so..to let the software set" ???? huh? Well, I dutifully did exactly what he said...no help. Here comes call number 2 to Dillon. This guy (Patick is his name) tells me that I need to zero the scale after each time I weigh something. When I asked if he was kidding or if there was a hidden camera in my office filming this for an episode of Candid Camera...he told me that this was the only way to ensure accuracy. I asked him why this was not pointed out in the instructions...he agreed!!!

Needless to say, a "high end" company like this can afford not having my dollars any further.

I use a mixture of Hornady dies and an RCBS Rock Chucker Press...works fine for me.

Hmm...that's STRANGE! (And I'd talk to someone else, his boss, or even Mike Dillon in person)

I've had a Dillon Electronic scale for YEARS. In fact I had an earlier model and I had some "problem" with it (that was so LONG ago I don't even remember what the problem was anymore)

But I called them. They said, "Pack it up and ship it back". I did and they sent me a new one (that was slightly different).

About the drifting, mine does and will. For about 5 min. (while its electronics are warming up) then it settles down nicely. I might have to hit the "Zero" button, maybe once every 15 min. or so, but I certainly am not "wearing my finger out" doing it.

I'd give 'em a call...MAKE 'em stand up to their "No B.S. Guarantee". I think they will.

[Cliff D.]

It's like catching a trout on a fly you tied or a tuna on a rod you built, it just adds to satisfaction to roll your own.

[EvilD]

Originally Posted by baltz526

bullet selection for a 220 swift is an important aspect. when you read your brand new reloading books (2 or 3 at least, hodgdon, nosler, lyman are the 3 i would recomend) don't pick a 40gr at 4500fps try some long bullets 52gr and up. the longest bullet your rifle will stabilize will be a good choice

Excellent point, although a bullet traveling that fast then hitting a squeek makes so much entertainment. If you shoot too many hot loads you'll burn up a 220 swift throat.
Find out what twist your barrel is. Knowing this will let you know what weight range bullets will be best.

D

[ArcheryHunter]

Originally Posted by bigjake_888

In the last year I have dived into reloading and I have leared one very important thing. If you want to shoot the best you can you have to buy the best you can. If you buy anything else you will buy it twice.

I will take a picture and send it to you. It is bright red with an H and a circle around it. The person who gave it to me said he purchased it when he was young. He estimated it around 1950... It works great... Ugly but who cares!!!

[bigjake_888]

"Roll Your Own" I like it.