Winterizing an inboard

Phil Layer · 10-16-2001, 07:40 AM

It's nearing the time when I need to park my deep V fiberglass with the inboard/outdrive and fire up my sled. Since this is the first time I've owned an inboard/outdrive, I'm curious as to what is involved in winterizing these. I assume new outdrive grease is a part of it but I'm stumped on what else would be appropriate.

Your help is appreciated.

Captn · 10-16-2001, 07:47 AM

Good question. I am at that same point. The guy I bought the boat from took it into a local marine machanic, and he winterized it. I was also wondering about storing, ie remove the batteries and keep on trickle charge, should the out drive be stored up or down, do we need to keep a light on the motor to reduce condensation and on and on. Any experience or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

boater · 10-16-2001, 08:41 AM

always store your boat with the outdrive down, the oil in it it made to lube gears and bearings when you are running on the water, if you leave it up some of them have no oil protecting them, same goes for an outboard. drain your manifolds and put the plugs back in after they are drained, dont leave your outdrive uncovered if it`s going to sit with the sun hitting it, cover it with somthing so your bellows and seals wont dry out, also there is nothing harder on a boat than sitting, i just sold my bayliner after owning it for 17 years and i always rain or shine started it up once a month and let it warm up, then redrained it, never had a problem. also put some gas treatment in it to keep the gas fresh, also i am not a fan of hosing the engine down with corrosion stuff, i am a fan of buying a few cans of high heat clear spray paint and painting the engine and everything that is hooked to it, if you seal it nothing can get in it to start corrosion. just a few of my useless 2 cents tips.

SlabQuest · 10-16-2001, 08:50 AM

Boater is describing the conventional method, which is what the owner's manual details. I use my boat in the winter. So what I do is suck diluted biodegradeable antifreeze through the "headphones" and into the FWC, manifolds, etc. I also fog the motor if I think it will sit for 4 weeks or more. If anybody's interested, I can detail the fittings I use.

mike5097 · 10-16-2001, 08:50 AM

For more than you'd ever want to know about winterizing, try this page: http://www.homestead.com/dolphinmarineservice/wint.html

Mike

Captn · 10-16-2001, 01:44 PM

Hey Mike, Thanks for the web page. That is just what I needed, this is what make Ifish work, its fun to be here!!!

Pilar · 10-16-2001, 06:12 PM

The Mercruiser repair manual recommends storing the boat with the outdrive down because the bellows are relaxed. This prevents cracking and makes the bellows last longer.

This is also a great time to help out your local marina. Take your boat in for the annual service. Things slow way down in the fall and winter for the boat related businesses. This service can be done at home with the right tools, materials and a decent service manual. ( I highly recommend the SELOC manual, $25) It involves removing the outdrive ( 6 bolts, 15 minutes) to grease the driveshaft ujoints, inspecting the bellows and gimbal bearing and changing the outdrive oil. I also usually change out the water pump impeller and zincs at the same time.

Winterizing the motor is all about preventing freeze breaking the engine. Either remove all water from the engine block and manifolds or replace it with an antifreeze/water mixture. There is a rig available to feed a 5 gallon bucket full of the antifreeze mixture to the engine while it is running through the outdrive.

Other things to do include adding gas stabilizer to your tank and topping it off. Change out fuel filters and water separator elements. Change the oil and filter in the engine.

Removing the batteries is good too. Store them in an area that does not freeze. Set the batteries on a board so they do not contact the ground, they will stay warmer. Charge them overnight once a month. A fully charged battery will not freeze.

You can get started by treating your gas and buying the book.

Or just use the dang boat every week like I do. So many sturgeon, so little time.......

SlabQuest · 10-17-2001, 07:50 AM

I think (but do not know) that it is better for the internal metal surfaces and the pump impeller to be in contact with antifreeze than to be semi dry. Sucking antifreeze into the motor only takes about 10 minutes and the boat is always ready to go. Fogging takes another 5 minutes. Quick & Easy (like me)!

Pilar · 10-17-2001, 08:01 AM

I agree, Slabquest. Some people may not want to deal with the hassle of filling the motor with antifreeze. In that case draining and rusting of the block is better than replacement due to freeze cracking.

Try to find a replacement boat motor block after the first weeklong freeze in January. A lot of people break their boat motors every winter out of ignorance or laziness.