Mechanic help

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 05:10 PM

Long story:

2001 Chevy S-10 Blazer. Problem with plastic part of intake manifold that leaks. Takes out the distributor cap. Back and forth between 2 distributor caps while trying to bandaid the leak as the repair cost is more that 1/2 what the truck is worth. Find a solution and decide to replace distributor cap and rotor one last time.

Through a series of unfortunate circumstances the mounting screws for the cap appear to be missing and new ones bought. All fixed up and the truck is started. Weird noise. While trying to pinpoint noise and at about the same time the noise is figured out, the truck stops. It was the distributor. Open it back up and discover that the mounting screws were taped to the inside of the cap. :frown:

Assume that the screws shorted out the distributor and purchase new distributor. Install. Still won't start. :frown: It turns over, but no start. Check voltage to coil. No voltage to coil.

Check fuses and find the ECM1 fuse blown, cluster fuse fine. Replace the fuse. Still won't start. It popped a couple times, but not sure if that was compression or it was trying to start.

Any suggestions? Please? I've checked the Internet and can't find anything close. The best I can get is fuel pump problems and the ECM b fuse.

The battery was getting a bit low so it's on a charger right now. Would lowish voltage keep it from starting? The battery wasn't dead, but the motor was turning over slower than normal.

IDWITHELD · 01-15-2008, 05:34 PM

"bought new distributor" or cap and rotor? If new distributor: Are you sure you are indexed to TDC (on compression stroke) on #1 while pointing to #1 pole (wire)?
Is it possible the distributor is not indexed properly?

Don't suppose you have a fuel pressure gauge?
How about spark checker?
OBD2 tester
timing light

fishncliff · 01-15-2008, 05:34 PM

Check your fuel pump fuses( in the box under the hood).
Turn the key on, listen for the fuel pump to make a whirring noise behind you. No noise, need new pump.
Dealer cost--enormous--750-1000 for pump.
Local auto part store---243 for same pump. I just did the same thing with my 2000 blazer.

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 05:41 PM

New distributor, new rotor, new cap. Motor was not turned over after indexing the old ones.

Checked every fuse. Only one burned was the ECM 1, replaced. Checked it after turning over the engine and it was fine.

Can hear the fuel pump working when the key is turned on.

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 05:42 PM

No OBD2 tester (don't know what it is).
Do have a timing light

IDWITHELD · 01-15-2008, 05:50 PM

My bet is on the distributor is not indexed.

Evidence: fuel pump running, turns over, occasionally pop's...

How was the distributor installed after removing the old one? I bet it's firing after 10 deg. BTDC....

MattPark · 01-15-2008, 06:00 PM

First off, do you have any type of spark right now?

(Stick a plug in a wire, have a brave soul ground it, crank and watch)

I'd say the distributor isn't indexed correctly, but right now it doesn't sound like it's firing at all (even incorrectly).

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 06:01 PM

Possible. It has an EDI ignition and you can't adjust the distributor to advance the timing. It only goes in one way. We even went back to the store to examine the old distributor to make sure that a pin wasn't sheared or something and the index marks were off. The distributor and the rotor were indexed before removal. And if the timing was off, would that explain the blown ECM1 fuse?

IDWITHELD · 01-15-2008, 06:07 PM

Next guess is ignition module.
still need to verify if spark exists.

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 06:21 PM

Coil has spark to distributor. Spark plugs are buried. I might be able to get to one of them on the left bank. That is the next step. He says the distributor went in and seated about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off of the paint mark. While the distributor can't be moved to advance the timing, there is a little slop of about an 1/8 of an inch in either direction.

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 06:22 PM

Brand new ignition module.

IDWITHELD · 01-15-2008, 06:27 PM

need to know if you have spark.
If you have spark then it's not the ignition system.

Is it possible the ECM was blown or another fuse somewhere?

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 06:37 PM

I pulled every fuse I could find. Under the hood and inside the car. The only one I found blown was the ECM1. The ECM b was fine and the the cluster fuse was good. I don't know how to test the ECM.

IDWITHELD · 01-15-2008, 06:52 PM

Is the ECM1 fuse used in the fuel pump circuit?
I wonder if you have +12 on the injectors? If yes then the fuse is good. IF the injectors are not firing either the magnetic reference signal bad from distributor or ECM is dead.
Did everything get plugged back in?
I don't supose you have a chiltons electrical diagram?

If spark is verified I would check fuel pressure before moving deeper.

STGRule · 01-15-2008, 07:00 PM

No. The fuel pump is controlled with the ECMb fuse. When we were trying to start the car, fuel vapor was coming from the carb. So I don't think that is the problem. Either we aren't getting spark out of the distributor because it isn't seated correctly, the distributor is bad, the rotor is bad or the ignition module is bad.

IDWITHELD · 01-15-2008, 07:03 PM

Grab a spare spark plug, pull a plug wire (plug end), plug in new plug and ground it out while starting (wear rubber gloves) . If it sparks you got power coming out of distributor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by STGRule

No. The fuel pump is controlled with the ECMb fuse. When we were trying to start the car, fuel vapor was coming from the carb. So I don't think that is the problem. Either we aren't getting spark out of the distributor because it isn't seated correctly, the distributor is bad, the rotor is bad or the ignition module is bad.

MattPark · 01-15-2008, 07:05 PM

If fuel pressure is even only a couple PSI too low, those engines don't like to start. A quick way to check if it's a fuel issue is a quick squirt of starting fluid.

It seems like you should have spark to the plugs. Without knowing for sure, though, it's still somewhat hard to diagnose.

Norski · 01-15-2008, 08:01 PM

could the distributor be 260 out or 360??? pull the thing out and rotate it put back in and set fireing order, worth a try?????

IDWITHELD · 01-16-2008, 10:44 AM

How did this turn out?

STGRule · 01-16-2008, 03:25 PM

We went to bed early last night and just got back from work (one vehicle for two jobs 35 miles apart makes for a looong day). We'll try the spark plug spark tonight.

CATCH AND EAT · 01-16-2008, 03:50 PM

Be sure to wet your finger tip.

SHLEPROCK · 01-16-2008, 06:23 PM

The best way I have found for checking spark is to hook up a timing light and try to start motor while the timing light is on

suckerfish · 01-16-2008, 11:14 PM

disconect the Battery. Often this will reset the computer.

suckerfish

drhall99 · 01-17-2008, 08:06 PM

Here's one that got me.. Check Dist cap to make sure that the little carbon contact is reaching the rotor. Spent a lot of time on that one...

JustCallMeDave · 01-17-2008, 08:21 PM

Sounds like your hootenannie is discombobulated.

icbig1s · 01-17-2008, 09:03 PM

Sounds a lot like the problem I had with my 90 Mazda B2200. After giving up on trying to get it to run, it sat for a year. Then one day I found a website on ebay where a guy rebuilds the ECM because they're prone to capacitors leaking the caustic stuff inside and shorting out the ignition circuit. I was sure that was the case after I pulled the ECM and opened it up and saw the actual brown area where this happened. It cost $90 to send it off to get repaired. I stuck it back in the day it came back and the truck has started every single time since.

Ryan Pultz · 01-17-2008, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATCH AND EAT

Be sure to wet your finger tip.

Dont you have to stand in a bucket of water?

CATCH AND EAT · 01-18-2008, 06:04 AM

So Ruth, verdict please?

MattPark · 01-18-2008, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icbig1s

Sounds a lot like the problem I had with my 90 Mazda B2200.

That is a very specific, and common problem with Mitsubishi ECUs, and doesn't apply here.

People break into those trucks regularly just to steal the computers because of the extremely high cost of replacement (relatively few people know about the rebuilders).

STGRule · 01-19-2008, 01:26 PM

:frown: So far, nothing. Running out of things to check.

fishkisser · 01-19-2008, 01:43 PM

If you have fuel and spark everything points back to the intake leak ... It will not fire if it has a improper fuel to air ratio ...

STGRule · 01-19-2008, 02:11 PM

Yippee!!!! It's running.

Still running a little rough, but we can tweak that hopefully.

bait dunker · 01-19-2008, 04:05 PM

the distributors in that vehicle are not adjustable like older chevy distributors. i would nearly bet my bobber rod that although the pin is lined up on the distributor, it is not pointed in the right direction. the cam sensor will try to compensate, if it is off the MIL will come on and have a cam corelation code. the distributor needs to not only be indexed correctly with the pin, but you need to get the rotor pointed correctly. just keep in mind with that type of distributor cap, where the electrode in the cap is, it curves around to where #1 actually is.