Adding kicker motor and bracket - www.ifish.net
Leave no Dog Behind

Go Back   www.ifish.net > Ifish Fishing and Hunting > The Salty Dogs

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-05-2008, 11:20 AM   #1
The Duck
Steelhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 279
Default Adding kicker motor and bracket

I'm looking to add a 4 stroke kicker motor to my 19' fiberglass boat. I don't have any experience with these so I'm looking for any opinions and recommendations. I'm thinking about a late model 03 or newer 15 horsepower. Clueless about brackets.
Thanks in advance

__________________
The Duck

May your hearts be filled with love and your freezer with self gotten game!
The Duck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2008, 12:47 PM   #2
HiTekRdNek
Ifish Nate
 
HiTekRdNek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Lake Oswego
Posts: 2,121
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I just went thru this adventure last summer. Here's my input.
First I think a smaller kicker might do you just fine. I'm thinking your using it trolling for salmon. I would say a 9.9 hp or so. Maufacturer would be Yamaha or Honda.
As far as the bracket I would strongly recommend the Garelick brand. Don't go cheap on the bracket or you will be replacing it.
Hope this helps.
__________________
HiTekRdNek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 10:40 AM   #3
ANDYCOHO
Sturgeon
 
ANDYCOHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Eagle Creek, OR
Posts: 3,630
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

After owning 3 Yamaha 8hp High Thrust motors, I decided to buy another to run on my 20-foot Trophy. After fishing in a couple of boats with the "Tilt Up" trolling motor brackets, and following plenty on the Hwy's, I knew I would NEVER own one. So I settled on a bracket make by North River. Very sturdy and has a sink built in, if you want to plumb in warm water. Easy to mount and will probably outlive the Trophy. And less $$ than a bracket with multiple moving parts that will wear and rust.




Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duck View Post
I'm looking to add a 4 stroke kicker motor to my 19' fiberglass boat. I don't have any experience with these so I'm looking for any opinions and recommendations. I'm thinking about a late model 03 or newer 15 horsepower. Clueless about brackets.
Thanks in advance
__________________


Skippering:'The Retriever' & 'ANDYCOHO'
NON-Guided Adventures!
ANDYCOHO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 12:17 PM   #4
w-fly
Steelhead
 
w-fly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newberg
Posts: 418
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Andy did you change Trophys? I though you had an inboard.

Duck, I had the 4 stroke Garelick for 2 years when I had my trophy...it worked OK, not sure how well it would hold up w/ continued use.

I had a 20HP honda w/ the trolling prop, the difference from 1/2 throttle to full was maybe 1-1.5 mph (5->6), so like the other said a high thrust 8 or 9.9 may get it done just as well as a 15 or 20. I did use it on a smaller boat that is where the extra HP came in handy.
w-fly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 02:57 PM   #5
Duckwheat
Tuna!
 
Duckwheat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ballard, WA on a boat or McCall, Idaho
Posts: 1,945
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Do not buy a Garlick. My kicker god rest it's soul, is resting off shore of Winter Harbor, BC.

I have one like the guy pictured above. Works great.

Do not buy a Garlick.

DW
Duckwheat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 03:02 PM   #6
flapbreaker
Sturgeon
 
flapbreaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 3,501
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I have a mount called a mini jacker. I guess it's designed to raise the motor height a bit.

flapbreaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 03:05 PM   #7
Moldy45
Ifish Nate
 
Moldy45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Newberg OR
Posts: 2,317
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

My Garlick bracket seems to be holding up just fine after many years.You just got to cinch it up tight with a motorcycle strap while running or towing.There is way too much stress on it otherwise.
__________________
Bruce

Team (WE-FISH)

Team "SEA-NILE"
Moldy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 03:55 PM   #8
The Duck
Steelhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 279
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I guess I'm more confused than ever. A friend (not ifisher) thinks:
1. 4 stroke is too much weight.
2. Too much maintanence.
3. Too much cost.
4. Solid bracket keeps prop in water even when tilted slowing upper speed.

I do use the boat for playing on the lake so slowing down isn't great.
I also like 4 strokes as I have a 70 gallon gas tank and I'm not particularly intrested in taking up fishing room with a small extra tank.
I know there are many opinions out there ie, Garelick good, Garelick bad.
So please let me know what you think.
__________________
The Duck

May your hearts be filled with love and your freezer with self gotten game!
The Duck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 04:06 PM   #9
ANDYCOHO
Sturgeon
 
ANDYCOHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Eagle Creek, OR
Posts: 3,630
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by w-fly View Post
Andy did you change Trophys? I though you had an inboard.
Yep, different Trophy.

Running the 8hp on this trophy my max speed is 6mph. Running the 8hp on my 25' Super Vee, my max speed is 5.5.
__________________


Skippering:'The Retriever' & 'ANDYCOHO'
NON-Guided Adventures!
ANDYCOHO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 04:24 PM   #10
Onokai
Ifish Nate
 
Onokai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arcata
Posts: 3,169
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Andy is right on the bracket-I had mine made from alum at fab shop in Coos Bay. The t-8 fits tight to hull and is steered with a connector shaft. Get a solid non lift style bracket.




Mine was powdercoated as well. If you do go drop down type tie that puppy up good when you trailer anywhere-get a 4 stroke kicker as well-Thats my 2 cents . Mark
__________________
ONOKAI
......................

TUNA is a STATE of MIND
Onokai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 04:42 PM   #11
flapbreaker
Sturgeon
 
flapbreaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 3,501
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duck View Post
I guess I'm more confused than ever. A friend (not ifisher) thinks:
1. 4 stroke is too much weight.
2. Too much maintanence.
3. Too much cost.
4. Solid bracket keeps prop in water even when tilted slowing upper speed.

I do use the boat for playing on the lake so slowing down isn't great.
I also like 4 strokes as I have a 70 gallon gas tank and I'm not particularly intrested in taking up fishing room with a small extra tank.
I know there are many opinions out there ie, Garelick good, Garelick bad.
So please let me know what you think.
I don't think my 4 stroke 8hp Honda classic is heavy at all.

Also, on my mini jacker the prop is out of the water when the motor is tilted up so no problems with drag.
flapbreaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 05:08 PM   #12
ANDYCOHO
Sturgeon
 
ANDYCOHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Eagle Creek, OR
Posts: 3,630
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duck View Post
I guess I'm more confused than ever. A friend (not ifisher) thinks:
1. 4 stroke is too much weight.
2. Too much maintanence.
3. Too much cost.
4. Solid bracket keeps prop in water even when tilted slowing upper speed.
1. 103# for a T8 or F8. Mid 90's Merc. 8hp 2-stroke weigh? 87# (+ or -)
2. Is changing $4 of oil every year too much? Since you would have the same maintanence on a 2 stroke for everything else.
3. Have you priced out a new 8hp 2 stroke lately.....do they even make them anymore? Have you priced out a pre-emissions 2-stroke without a lot of wear and tear on it? F8 High Thrust Yamaha, new for $1800 with a 3 year warranty.
4. False. I can get my Yamaha almost parellel to the water, a good 12" clear of the water, worst case scenario.
__________________


Skippering:'The Retriever' & 'ANDYCOHO'
NON-Guided Adventures!
ANDYCOHO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 05:35 PM   #13
Onokai
Ifish Nate
 
Onokai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arcata
Posts: 3,169
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Duck
Duckwheat said (Do not buy a Garlick. My kicker god rest it's soul, is resting off shore of Winter Harbor, BC.)

I'll intrepert this to mean he LOST his motor off the garlick bracket and he is also not keen on them. Maybe your lake is super shallow and you like to dive to recover things-? Lets go the other way
i'll take the other side now and say get a super cheap drop down bracket
and a used 2-stroke

I'll respond to these as well
1. 4 stroke is too much weight.-No there is a little differeance-not much
2. Too much maintanence.-there is less
3. Too much cost.-ok 4 strokes may cost a little more up front-but no oil to buy daily will save you alot down the line
4. Solid bracket keeps prop in water even when tilted slowing upper speed.-not true my prop is out of water when up?

This horse is a dead one for me-I'll let others take it from here. Mark
__________________
ONOKAI
......................

TUNA is a STATE of MIND
Onokai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 05:47 PM   #14
Bloom
Tuna!
 
Bloom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brookings
Posts: 1,474
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I run a 19'Arima with a Honda kicker mounted to a home-made stainless bracket. I run a connector link up front to the main while trolling, other wise the connector remains stored. Typical of a fixed bracket, I have no moving parts to deal with, it's clean and simple(kind of like me : ) and it was cheap to build.

I opted to get the 15 Honda as I wanted tilt and trim and remote controls that I could not get on the 9.9 at the time of purchase. An 8 or 9.9 will push your boat just fine. I have no problem with the prop clearing the water on the kicker in tilt-up, but if you have minimal freeboard, it could be an issue I suppose.

I have some pix of mine if you're interested.
__________________
"I wondered why the boat was getting bigger.....then it hit me!"
Bloom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 07:05 PM   #15
Green Machine
Tuna!
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Birdsview, WA
Posts: 1,023
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Don't buy a Garelick. Plus, tying one down everytime you run on Big Blue and move to a new spot or down the highway gets old fast!!

Ok, so I have a delima. I also need to replace my bracket this winter. I like the idea of the solid bracket, but my kicker does not have power tilt. (9.9 Mercury Bigfoot with controls) Is it too much weight or force to have the kicker tilted all the way up??

Green Machine
__________________
Why is my bobber down?
Green Machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 07:10 PM   #16
Green Machine
Tuna!
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Birdsview, WA
Posts: 1,023
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDYCOHO View Post
1. 103# for a T8 or F8. Mid 90's Merc. 8hp 2-stroke weigh? 87# (+ or -)
2. Is changing $4 of oil every year too much? Since you would have the same maintanence on a 2 stroke for everything else.
3. Have you priced out a new 8hp 2 stroke lately.....do they even make them anymore? Have you priced out a pre-emissions 2-stroke without a lot of wear and tear on it? F8 High Thrust Yamaha, new for $1800 with a 3 year warranty.
4. False. I can get my Yamaha almost parellel to the water, a good 12" clear of the water, worst case scenario.

Andy-

How much was the NR bracket and do they sell them as a regular item or did they make it for you??

Green Machine
__________________
Why is my bobber down?
Green Machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 08:41 PM   #17
Onokai
Ifish Nate
 
Onokai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arcata
Posts: 3,169
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Green Machine
My bracket cost less than $150 to fab and coat. May want to have one made the coating really is just for looks.Its super strong and if you go custom you can have it made to fit exactly. I spent a day at Northriver last may (on my 250 repower) and seem to recall those brackets at the shop as a seperate item-give them a call.Mark
__________________
ONOKAI
......................

TUNA is a STATE of MIND
Onokai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2008, 02:45 PM   #18
ANDYCOHO
Sturgeon
 
ANDYCOHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Eagle Creek, OR
Posts: 3,630
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Machine View Post
Andy-

How much was the NR bracket and do they sell them as a regular item or did they make it for you??

Green Machine
If I remember right, it was $110. And they had it in stock at Portland Performance Marine on Hwy 224.
__________________


Skippering:'The Retriever' & 'ANDYCOHO'
NON-Guided Adventures!
ANDYCOHO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 03:37 AM   #19
Musicman
Chromer
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Roy, Wa
Posts: 897
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Get the OMC bracket with the hydaulic piston...very robust.....my two pennies.
__________________
Tight lines!!!!
Musicman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 06:42 AM   #20
Metal Manipulator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Or.
Posts: 3,039
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I have a 10hp honda mounted on the OMC on my jet boat and it has survived for 6 years. I never tilt it for travel and also I do not set it down for trolling this keeps it up for easier stearing. For backing up I must set it down.

I have a solid bracket on the swim deck and it tilts up out of the water just fine.

There has been many threads with people satisfied with the T8, when the time comes that is the one I will be looking at.
__________________
Formerly Wet Fly
The Lady Irish
Now a Tuna Captain
Morrage location Newport
Boat lady Irish

NW CUSTOM BOAT WORKS

nwcustomboatworks.com

WE BUILD CUSTOM ARCHES
Metal Manipulator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 07:04 AM   #21
Chromaflage
King Salmon
 
Chromaflage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Boring, OR
Posts: 15,672
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I've got a T9.9 I added to mine. I bought the biggest bracket Garelick makes and used a 1/8" stainless backing plate on the inside. I tilt the motor when running out with the main and use a tie-down strap while in transit.



I did add UHMW shims on the outside to prevent the metal bracket from digging into the gel coat.


The SS backing plate is visible in the access hatch I cut.


So far, I have not noticed any problems with this setup - no corrosion issues, no stress issues, etc.

FWIW....

CrF
__________________
I'm on vacation until I get back.
Chromaflage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 09:10 AM   #22
5 Salt
Sturgeon
 
5 Salt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Salem
Posts: 3,574
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Solid Braket - do not even consider any other option but solid bracket.

I replaced an OMC articulating braket that was worn out proper from trailering abuse, with an OMC heavy-duty articulating braket (no longer avail). The HD brack was sweet but big pain raising up/down etc...and in time towing was beginning to take it's toll onthe HD model. The Garlick bracket is half the bracket in terms of stoutness and quality of that offerred by OMC.

As to kicker, Yami-T8 is all you will need. It has pushed my fully loaded 7,000lb 25ft Grady 30miles out, back to port at a 5-6mph in 4-5ft seas - Waterdog will confrim.

4-Stroke runs and runs and runs: Change the oil and gear lube one a year and you are done with maint.
A lot less hassle than mixing oil/gas every tank, carrying a seperate fuel tank, changing plug(s) every year, and gear lube as will be the case with the two-stoke. Oh yes and lets not forget about the smell off the two-stroke while trolling around with the wind at your tail or no wind at all.

Go with 4-stroke, go with solid bracket.....period.

My solid bracket is a good alternative if you motor well has the room. Also makes it easy to connect kicker to big motor steering. Pics - below



This bracket was designed just high enough to get the motor out of the water when at moorage or underway. Stainless that fits over the transom and thru bolted with 3/8in pvc spacer between backet and outer hull. Brack was $150.00 from Grady dealer in Seattle. I am certain you could get something very similar fab'd locally from about same money.



__________________
.
.


Strong Like Bull, Smart Like Tractor...
5 Salt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 09:22 AM   #23
Chromaflage
King Salmon
 
Chromaflage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Boring, OR
Posts: 15,672
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Absolutes are nice in a perfect world. But some transom configurations make a fixed mount impractical. Depends on the application. If I had put a fixed mound on mine, someone would have to lean way out and down, over the stern to tilt the kicker. The other alternative was to either get an XXXL shaft - otherwise the kicker wouldn't be low enough. It looks like the fixed bracket worked well for your Grady, but it wouldn't necessarily work for every application.

JMHO

CrF
__________________
I'm on vacation until I get back.
Chromaflage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 10:10 AM   #24
Cornfed
Steelhead
 
Cornfed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 285
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I have a Garelick Hydrabracket...completely hands off..works great. the only drawback is its weight at 85 to 90 lbs.
Cornfed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 10:50 AM   #25
5 Salt
Sturgeon
 
5 Salt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Salem
Posts: 3,574
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chromaflage View Post
Absolutes are nice in a perfect world. But some transom configurations make a fixed mount impractical. Depends on the application. If I had put a fixed mound on mine, someone would have to lean way out and down, over the stern to tilt the kicker. The other alternative was to either get an XXXL shaft - otherwise the kicker wouldn't be low enough. It looks like the fixed bracket worked well for your Grady, but it wouldn't necessarily work for every application.

JMHO

CrF
Agreed, I went with XXL shaft for my application and electric tilt/trim to save my having to balance on my tippy-toes while raise/lowering the kicker. By the looks of things I must reach back perhaps 20-24 additional inches to reach my kicker as compared to your installation.



I am assuming then, that you went with a articulating backet to overcome the deep draft of your hull thereby ensuring a clean water flow to prop.

I am not entirely certain however that one needs 100% clean flowing water for a kicker to perform 100% at all trottle settings. Remember a properly horsepowered kicker can only move a boat at its max designed hull displacement speed:

Max Hull Speed = (1.34) * (Length WL in ft.)^0.5



Because the is no expectation of planing while under kicker power, the hull remains in the water just as if it was adrift and the rule is:
If the kicker has a long enough shaft to ensure the cooling intakes and first fin are 4-6in under the water in most wave/sea conditions it will move the hull at or near it max hull speed (assuming zero wind or excess hull drag).

Solid Bracket - How High to Mount?
In short, kicker is not expected drive the hull at a planing speed so there is no requirment for 100% clean water flow. In most cases, a solid braket mounted at a height above the water to ensure kicker is out of the water at moorage/underway when retracted, and low enough to ensure prop and cooling intakes are submerged in most operating conditions will get provide enough thrust to move the hull at or near its max hull speed.

(The XL or XXL shafted kicker primary serves to ensure that height of the kicker is great enought to keep motor head out of the water in rougher seas/waves)

Solid Bracket - How far aft of transom should it extend?
As to how far aft for the braket to extent for kicker operations, on most hulls without brackets or transom extentions for big motor(s), a bracket that has the kicker 12-14in aft of transom suface will get it done. At least that is how far aft the Grady factory bracket extends for those hulls with flat transom such as yours.

As noted in the above pic of my installation, the Kicker does not entend to any where near the depth of the big motor, which does require clean flow for planing.



Something like this - for kickers up to 160lbs

__________________
.
.


Strong Like Bull, Smart Like Tractor...
5 Salt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 11:45 AM   #26
Billfisher
Tuna!
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eugene
Posts: 1,340
Default Another two cents...

Here's my input (as if there isn't enough.) The old "OMC" bracket came in two strengths: 2 stroke (light duty) and 4 stroke (heavy duty).

Either bracket will wear out if not trailered/running in the down position. this kind of defeats the purpose of having a lift, in my opinion. The piston on these things is awesome for lift assist, but there was too much slop in the bracket when it was up.

They are still made, but now are called "CMC," and no longer "OMC."

-D
__________________
Doug

Team Stick Time!
Billfisher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 05:20 PM   #27
Moldy45
Ifish Nate
 
Moldy45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Newberg OR
Posts: 2,317
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Whew!

While I am not considered a Genius by any account and especially not on this board I come across as one dumb you know what.
This thread is almost getting as bad as a what do you think of a aluminum boat as compared to a fiberglass boat,we all have just the perfect setup don't we gentleman?

My boat was purchased used and it came the way it came with the garlick and the 2 stroke kicker.I use the heck out of my boat and kicker and it is still going strong .Yes any mechanical kicker bracket will be prone to breaking or failing just as anything mechanical will.
Will I use another Garlick? maybe or maybe I would go with a fixed mount.
If I went with a fixed mount on mine I would definitely make sure there is clear flow for the kicker since my Transom is a traditional outboard transom and not a bracket where the prop is lower than the offshore bracket that allows for 2 feet of clear flow after the transom.

Your Bracket looks like it works for your boat Kerry but I would strongly recommend that you tie it up so that there is no stress at the pivot points.
I tie mine up tight and it don't move and flex much at all
__________________
Bruce

Team (WE-FISH)

Team "SEA-NILE"
Moldy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 06:41 PM   #28
Green Machine
Tuna!
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Birdsview, WA
Posts: 1,023
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Ok, here is my idea. Since my motor does not have electric tilt, it would be a huge pain to lean over the transom and tilt it everytime. (Just like Kerry, a full height transom and the fixed bracket will push it out from the boat about a foot and a half) My biggest concern is.....is the small bracket on the motor strong enough to hold it in the "Tilted up" position? So, here we go.......make a small fixed bracket or hot water tank, say 10" setback. Then buy the CMC PT-35, which is hydraulic tilt and trim and pushes the motor back another 6 inches. I would then have tilt at the push of a button, have a strong fixed motor bracket, and also have a hot water tank if needed. When all said and done, about $500. Is this a good idea or not?? My Garelick lasted about two years before it really got sloppy.

Green Machine
__________________
Why is my bobber down?
Green Machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 06:48 PM   #29
Moldy45
Ifish Nate
 
Moldy45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Newberg OR
Posts: 2,317
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

When I tie down my Garlick it is in the up position with the motor in the down position. If I don't tie it this way there is to much slop and you can see it while running on the water and while trailering as my crew that has followed me down the road has told me.you want to make sure it can't move up and down a bunch. I do this by a strap from the motor hand hold to the rear cleat and it keeps it secure.
__________________
Bruce

Team (WE-FISH)

Team "SEA-NILE"
Moldy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 08:24 PM   #30
5 Salt
Sturgeon
 
5 Salt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Salem
Posts: 3,574
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Machine View Post
Ok, here is my idea. Since my motor does not have electric tilt, it would be a huge pain to lean over the transom and tilt it everytime. (Just like Kerry, a full height transom and the fixed bracket will push it out from the boat about a foot and a half) My biggest concern is.....is the small bracket on the motor strong enough to hold it in the "Tilted up" position? So, here we go.......make a small fixed bracket or hot water tank, say 10" setback. Then buy the CMC PT-35, which is hydraulic tilt and trim and pushes the motor back another 6 inches. I would then have tilt at the push of a button, have a strong fixed motor bracket, and also have a hot water tank if needed. When all said and done, about $500. Is this a good idea or not?? My Garelick lasted about two years before it really got sloppy.

Green Machine
Good thinking.

If starting from w/o kicker or bracket - purchase long shaft kicker with electric tilt/trim and go with good quality solid bracket.
__________________
.
.


Strong Like Bull, Smart Like Tractor...
5 Salt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 08:59 PM   #31
Two Fister
Sturgeon
 
Two Fister's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bend
Posts: 4,682
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

I had my OMC bracket fail on the road/torture chamber to Tofino. I had the motor tied up tight to keep it from bouncing. That was the only thing that kept me from losing the kicker on one of the 18 degree downhills with some nice sunken sections. The straps and one bolt were the only things holding the kicker on when I got to the Government Dock. The metal of the bracket was shredded.

Anybody want to guess how much it costs to buy a used kicker bracket from the only marine supply/repair store in Tofino when you have 4 days to fish? No power tools with me so I got to pay for the install as well. Makes my checking account shudder to think about it.

Solid brackets for me from that point on. Won't work on all boats but I would buy one from Pooderbuilt in Bellingham before buying a Garelick or CMC. If you buy a Garelick or CMC buy one rated for twice what your motor actually weighs.
TF
Two Fister is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 09:10 PM   #32
Chromaflage
King Salmon
 
Chromaflage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Boring, OR
Posts: 15,672
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

All I was saying was that my setup works the way I wanted it to. I looked at many options and for my boat, the Garelick made the most sense. And yes I tie it up. I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything, really - just sharing how I set mine up. You guys have fun here and good luck with whatever you decide to use.



CrF
__________________
I'm on vacation until I get back.
Chromaflage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2008, 02:29 PM   #33
Onokai
Ifish Nate
 
Onokai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arcata
Posts: 3,169
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Qoute
Anybody want to guess how much it costs to buy a used kicker bracket from the only marine supply/repair store in Tofino when you have 4 days to fish?

I'll guess 350 us$. Mark
__________________
ONOKAI
......................

TUNA is a STATE of MIND
Onokai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2008, 03:32 PM   #34
ET
Ifish Nate
 
ET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 2,117
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

A few years ago, I moved to a fixed bracket on my Arima. The only change I would make now is to invest in the electric start and tilt. So my advice is to go with the gold standard. Yamaha T-8 with electric start/tilt on a fixed bracket.
ET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 07:36 PM   #35
Green Machine
Tuna!
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Birdsview, WA
Posts: 1,023
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Onokai View Post
Qoute
Anybody want to guess how much it costs to buy a used kicker bracket from the only marine supply/repair store in Tofino when you have 4 days to fish?

I'll guess 350 us$. Mark

I'll say $500, since they installed it!!

Green Machine
__________________
Why is my bobber down?
Green Machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2008, 09:32 PM   #36
DJHooks
Fry
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Want to add a short shaft 4 cycle 15hp to my swim platform. Thought i would use a "L" shaped bracket with large support on the underside. Pair it with a Garelick lift (11") to insure the motor would come out of the water while underway. Question is, although the prop and cavitation plate will be submerged it only has about 32" between it and the hull. The prop does not clear the bottom of the hull. Thoughts?
DJHooks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2008, 07:34 AM   #37
Beefcake
Sturgeon
 
Beefcake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 4,015
Default Re: Adding kicker motor and bracket

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJHooks View Post
... Question is, although the prop and cavitation plate will be submerged it only has about 32" between it and the hull. The prop does not clear the bottom of the hull. Thoughts?
DJ- I'm not sure I fully understand your setup, but here are a couple of thoughts. I would be concerned about the shaft-length for 3 reasons: First, the motor will give you better performance if it is running in clean water below the hull (This is less important with a kicker, but it still could make a big difference with the performance of the motor by avoiding cavitation. I have read formulas for main motors on bass boats with jack plates stating that you can raise the cav-plate above the bottom of the hull by 1/2" for every six inches the motor is behind the hull, but I don't know how this applies to kickers). Second, if the motor is just barely deep enough to function (prop, cav plate, and water intake ports just below the water line), it will pop out of the water every time you go over a wave or boat wake, causing it to cavitate and to suck air into the cooling system (I blew a motor this way once while using a short-shaft motor on a boat that should have had a long-shaft). Third, if you ever have to use the kicker in reverse, it will not work if it is using all of its thrust to force water against the back side of the transom (all of the thrust will be offset by the resistance, and you will sit still). I'm sure others here have more expertise than me, but I have had these problems first-hand.
Beefcake is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Cast to



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:54 PM.

Terms of Service
Page generated in 0.84777 seconds with 57 queries