EZ Loader drum to disc conversiaon

[ICHTHYDEMON]

OK,I've decided I'm going to go with the Kodiak Discs. I'm saving a bit of money and going with the S-Cad rotors and calipers. From my research the S-Cad rotors with SS calipers are about 2x as much.

I'm thinking with a rinse of Salt-X after launching and retrieving and a thorough rinsing at home,the S-Cad will be fine.

For those that have done the conversion,how much of the original brake lines were you able to re-use?

I'll look again,but I'm pretty sure I have an Atwood actuator on my trailer. Will I be able to convert it over to work with discs?

[Hawaiian Time]

I had the conversion done a couple of months ago and they mechanic used the factory lines that were already on the trailer. HT

[Okie]

Originally Posted by ICHTHYDEMON

OK,I've decided I'm going to go with the Kodiak Discs. I'm saving a bit of money and going with the S-Cad rotors and calipers. From my research the S-Cad rotors with SS calipers are about 2x as much.

I'm thinking with a rinse of Salt-X after launching and retrieving and a thorough rinsing at home,the S-Cad will be fine.

For those that have done the conversion,how much of the original brake lines were you able to re-use?

I'll look again,but I'm pretty sure I have an Atwood actuator on my trailer. Will I be able to convert it over to work with discs?

Believe you will need a new actuator for disc brakes. Actuator for drum brakes is different than the actuator for disc brakes and not able to modify the drum brakes actuator.

But you are doing the right thing by going for disc brakes. There is no doubt they have drum brakes beat.

Good Luck

[Thomas Gilg]

When I bought my NR 21' Seahawk, I had Roseburg Performance Marine immediately change out the drums for discs on the EZ Loader 4300. The actuator (UTP? brand) and lines did NOT have to be exchanged, although I recall the check-value in the actuator had to be removed for proper disc operation. The discs installed were Kodiak.

--tg

[Bait O' Eggs]

You should be able to reuse all of it.

Make sure you get the right sized set up. There is a 4 bolt and a 5 bolt pattern depending on size of your axle.

It is a very easy switch over.

[Nalu]

I'm sure you already know this, but....

Don't forget to add an in-line lockout solenoid for backing. Change your wiring harness into a 5 wire with the 5th wire being tied into the reverse lights to activate the solenoid. You can't overpower discs like you do with drums.

[threetruck]

How much, roughly, does it cost to do a conversion like this?

[ICHTHYDEMON]

Originally Posted by threetruck

How much, roughly, does it cost to do a conversion like this?

With the S-Cad parts I'm looking at it about $150-170 per side. If you want SS the price goes up to almost $400 per side.

[Orca]

Ichtydemon,

Are your talking about 1 wheel for $170? Century Wheel and Rim sold me 4 wheels worth for $475 - all cadmium. I think I may have seen a post where somebody else actually did even better. Then, if you need a new actuator - $110 or so, and new flexible lines - $75 or so.

You can check with your actuator mfg., if there is a removable orifice, then you can remove it and use that actuator for discs.

For brake lines, you will need new flexible rubber from axle to caliper. Drums are hard line all the way to cylinder and disc calipers don't like that. You can reuse the rest if you want. If it is decent stainless line, you could keep it, but if it is standard line and going to rust out in another year or so, then I would replace with the flexible line kit.

[ICHTHYDEMON]

Originally Posted by Orca

Ichtydemon,

Are your talking about 1 wheel for $170? Century Wheel and Rim sold me 4 wheels worth for $475 - all cadmium. I think I may have seen a post where somebody else actually did even better. Then, if you need a new actuator - $110 or so, and new flexible lines - $75 or so.

You can check with your actuator mfg., if there is a removable orifice, then you can remove it and use that actuator for discs.

For brake lines, you will need new flexible rubber from axle to caliper. Drums are hard line all the way to cylinder and disc calipers don't like that. You can reuse the rest if you want. If it is decent stainless line, you could keep it, but if it is standard line and going to rust out in another year or so, then I would replace with the flexible line kit.

I have a tandem axle trailer,so $150-170 is for 2 sets. I'm looking at $300-340 for all four wheels.

[threetruck]

And these prices are for parts only - doing the work yourself?

Thanks for the information guys,

Ted

[ICHTHYDEMON]

Originally Posted by threetruck

And these prices are for parts only - doing the work yourself?

Thanks for the information guys,

Ted

Doing it myself.

[OB1]

I have one relative and 2 friends who went from drum to disk.
One did not change the acuator and the brakes wore out in one summer.
My brother changed the acuator on his and his wore out in a year.
Another friend wore his out in a year.

Two are now back to drum brakes and one just left the brakes off.

When my 07 ez loader 4300 trailer brakes go bad, I'll go with drum!!

[wsmahan]

The brakes wore out because in a braking systems there is a residual pressure valve that holds pressure on the drum brakes. This residual pressure valve causes the disk brakes to drag and wear out. This is how it works in the auto world, not sure about the trailer world. Some of the master cyclinders have an internal residual valve that needs to be removed. When the Fj40 and Jeep guys install disc brakes instead of the drum brakes the residual pressure valve is removed. Hope this helps.
Wes

[stream2.5]

[fishkisser]

Not really you just have to have a good imagination ...