electric trailer winch?

bobross · 11-05-2007, 09:36 AM

Does anyone have any experience with electric trailer winches on a big boat? I have a 26 ft boat that weighs about 9000 lbs when loaded with fuel, gear, ice,etc. The trailer is a bunk trailer with carpet covered bunks.

Running the boat up on the trailer is an ordeal, as I can't see the winch post from the helm. My wife stands to the side jumping up and down with a frightened look on her face signallng how much further I need to go[this may be due to one of my earlier experiences when I almost gunned the boat into the the back of the truck]. It would be easier if I could sink the trailer further, but it is an alum trailer, and If I sink it far enough to easily run the boat up on it, the trailer floats, and with any current or wind, it drifts off to the side and is canted by the time I get the boat to it. Also, I would like to be able to load the boat singlehanded, and it is to heavy to manually winch it up unless I really sink the trailer, bringing me back to the floating trailer problem.

Any recommendations on brands, capacities?

fyshndad · 11-05-2007, 10:24 AM

Bob
we used an elect winch on a 33 ft boat and it worked fine
I do not recall the brand name but it was simple to use

As far as the boat drifting away from the trailer when you have to back farther into the water

I use those PVC uprights(looks like goal posts) mounted to the trailer that keep the boat centered no matter how far onto the trailer the boat is

Between the uprights and a good winch you should be able to easily load the boat solo

Aaron97759 · 11-06-2007, 09:45 AM

I've put an electric PowerWinch RC30 on my trailer, much for the same reasons that you've described, and have had mixed results with it.

I've got a 24' NorthRiver Seahawk O/S, and the manual winch was impossible to reach without dangerous and/or wet moments while hanging on with one arm and winching w/ the other. If loading alone, I'd have to ram the boat up onto the trailer, then hop out and pray it didn't slide off the trailer rails as I ran to the front to hook up. While I'm sure this was often humorous to witnesses, it was stressful on me. The final straw was when the handle got away from me and free-spooled, damaging my boat and smashing my hand seriously.

The electric has made it much simpler to hook up, and in principle to winch onto the trailer. I just pull the boat up behind the submerged trailer, then run the long cable to the bow eye and hit the remote control as I hand-guide the boat up the trailer. For safety and contol, it's wonderful to be able to stand off to the side and watch the process while using the remote. Just make darn sure your battery is charged up all the way, or (better yet) you've got it wired to a running truck. Mine runs on it's own deep cycle battery (because my tow vehicle often changes) and if the battery is even a little weak, I've had to get creative to get the boat up that last few feet. Again, humorous to others...

I'd say the biggest complaint I have about the PowerWinch electric is that it's not intended to hold the boat on the trailer once out of the water. And no, you can't just use it w/ the safety chain. Mine requires that I disconnect the electric's hook once on level ground (often easier said than done), then attach a dedicated hold-down strap to the bow eye. My boat's eye doesn't accomodate both, so it's one or the other. Then for launching, I have to reverse the whole setup.

Another issue is that when pulling the boat up the ramp the winch will occasionally let a few inches to a foot of line out (again, it's not intended to hold the boat on the trailer). This then causes the safety chain to tighten up, which then makes it near impossible to get the electric's hook out of the bow. My winch isn't strong enough to pull the boat forward once on level ground, so it's usually a wrestling match to get it all tied down.

Having said all that, I'd still go with the electric. It's just a matter of learing how best to use it safely, and thinking a bit ahead of every move so I don't end up in a spot I can't get out of. I'm sure there's probably an electric winch out there that doesn't have the same quirks, so do your homework before buying.

Good luck!
-Aaron

Pilar · 11-06-2007, 10:29 AM

I use one of the electric winches on the boaterhome. Not sure of the model number but I'll look the next time I see it.

Since this rig came with the electric I just got used to it. Some things to look for are.

~Big motor with internal, self resetting overload.
~A manual release that allows you to pull the cable out without using the motor.
~A removeable cable with easily cleaned contacts on the plug and motor.

'Kismet' is big, pushing 8,000 loaded. The winch pulls it all the way up with relative ease. There is a single block on the cable which multiplies the pull force. I land the boat on the bottom roller and clip on the cable. Then we winch up till the motor starts bogging. Back the trailer in and pull some more.

The goal posts on the trailer would be a big help. I could then put the trailer in further right from the start and they would keep the boat lined up.

If you use a disconnecting plug for the winch cable .. think about where you mount the socket vs how exposed you are to water when backing the trailer in. I have to clean the trailer plug and socket often to overcome the corrosion. The socket is located to one side of the hitch.

ron m · 11-06-2007, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobross

Does anyone have any experience with electric trailer winches on a big boat? I have a 26 ft boat that weighs about 9000 lbs when loaded with fuel, gear, ice,etc. The trailer is a bunk trailer with carpet covered bunks.

Running the boat up on the trailer is an ordeal, as I can't see the winch post from the helm. My wife stands to the side jumping up and down with a frightened look on her face signallng how much further I need to go[this may be due to one of my earlier experiences when I almost gunned the boat into the the back of the truck]. It would be easier if I could sink the trailer further, but it is an alum trailer, and If I sink it far enough to easily run the boat up on it, the trailer floats, and with any current or wind, it drifts off to the side and is canted by the time I get the boat to it. Also, I would like to be able to load the boat singlehanded, and it is to heavy to manually winch it up unless I really sink the trailer, bringing me back to the floating trailer problem.

Any recommendations on brands, capacities?

From your post, it seems that finding a way to sink the trailer further would be helpful. I don't have or have experience with an aluminum trailer, but if it's floating, is it because the tires provide the flotation or are the trailer members sealed and providing the flotation? If it's the trailer members providing the flotation, contact the manufacturer and see if they have a suggestion to offer. My galvanized trailer does not have sealed members and it also has holes, I assume for drainage, letting the air escape as it gets submerged, and I try to use them for rinsing the trailer.

My boat is not easy to launch alone nor is it easy to get it back on the trailer alone, though getting it back on is easier than launching. The sideboards are very helpful, and mine are quite high, up to the level of the top of the side of the boat when the boat is on the trailer.
ron m

flapbreaker · 11-06-2007, 11:32 AM

Just keep the boat strapped to the trailer.

Ok, on a serious note I've been thinking of getting an electric winch for my boat too. However I think the bunks are problomatic. As noted above if the boat slides back while going up the ramp it's nearly impossible to pull it forward on level ground even with an electric winch. At least that's the battle I've been fighting. In some way's I wish I had gone with the rollers. For running your boat up on the trailer you might consider mounting a removable stick/pole of some kind at or near where the bow comes to rest. It might at least provide a better visual clue than your wife jumping up an down. Not that she's doing a bad job or anything.

Taylor's viewpoint · 11-06-2007, 11:58 AM

I also have an RC 30 electric winch. I have a 29 foot Striper and the RC 30 makes it a lot easier to load the boat. I leave the goal posts on the trailer and get the boat lined up and hook up the winch. With the remote I can back the trailer down and come up on the winch from the cab of my truck. To get all the slack out of the winch line, I come up the ramp a little ways and then back down again while coming up on the winch line. The second time gets the cable tight and the boat stays put for transit. You need to get the cable going on straight and keep it that way or you will have the cable bunch up on one side. Keep tension on the cable and it will generally roll on smooth.
TV

bandwcow · 11-06-2007, 12:13 PM

My trailer with rollers, used for a 20' weldcraft, inboard jet has a Powerwinch 912 on it. I do not sink the axle bearings / electric brakes in the water. The winch does a great job pulling the boat onto the trailer.

TEC · 11-06-2007, 12:13 PM

Would replacing your carpet covered bunks with plastic strips help?

They seem to work great on my friends 22' custom weld, although that is a lot lighter boat and it is aluminum.

namu mac · 11-06-2007, 02:17 PM

I have a 26' NR O/S and I use a Powerwinch RC30 and it works great! I run the boat on the trailer and momma hooks up the winch and pushes a button. The boat comes on the trailer and she hooks up the saftey chain and away we go. Way too cool, save lots of headaches.

croation2 · 11-13-2007, 02:24 PM

This might work if the only problem with the drive on is vision/veiw. Walmart sells a rear veiw camera for 98.00. I think costco has them for 89.00. They are wireless. I bought mine so I don't have to get out of the truck 5 times to line up the ball and the hitch, but it seems like you could just take the mini lcd tv with you in the boat and leave the camera screwed to the licence plate bracket on your truck. The camera needs 12 volts from your trailer wiring area and uses the 2 top screws in the plate bracket. The monitor just plugs into the ciggerette jack. I think the monitor is 3 x 4 inches. slicker than tuna blood! If that doesn't give the correct veiw, you could mount the camera under the winch, and pull the power from the trailer. It's about as big as a wristwatch.

Salt Patrol · 11-14-2007, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobross

Does anyone have any experience with electric trailer winches on a big boat? I have a 26 ft boat that weighs about 9000 lbs when loaded with fuel, gear, ice,etc. The trailer is a bunk trailer with carpet covered bunks.

Running the boat up on the trailer is an ordeal, as I can't see the winch post from the helm. My wife stands to the side jumping up and down with a frightened look on her face signallng how much further I need to go[this may be due to one of my earlier experiences when I almost gunned the boat into the the back of the truck]. It would be easier if I could sink the trailer further, but it is an alum trailer, and If I sink it far enough to easily run the boat up on it, the trailer floats, and with any current or wind, it drifts off to the side and is canted by the time I get the boat to it. Also, I would like to be able to load the boat singlehanded, and it is to heavy to manually winch it up unless I really sink the trailer, bringing me back to the floating trailer problem.

Any recommendations on brands, capacities?

I have used 3 Power Winch Model 30 so far on my 26 NR in a 7 month period. When I'm alone or using a very shallow water ramp near home winching on is the way to go. So far I have burned up 3 of the Power Winches even on the double pulley setup which is rated to 11,000 pounds. Keep in mind I only used it on one ramp so each one was run 3-4 times. The rest of the time I just do the drive on deal. Boaters World confirms that the company that bought out Power Winch is not up to the standards the old ones were built too and has had many of these new units retuned. I finally gave up and went back to the 2 speed hand crank that came with the trailer.
If anyone comes up with a better quailty winch please let me know as I would be very interested.
Thanks
JK

No Bail · 04-22-2008, 04:16 PM

I'm bringing this back to the top to see if a more powerful winch was found for salty trailers?

My 2601 Striper has a painted bottom on carpeted bunks. Is an electric winch recommended for a painted bottom boat? Can I put the slick plastic on the bunks to make it go easier, with a painted bottom? I looked at one set of plastic that could be installed on carpeted bunks, and it was labeled as not recommended for a painted bottom.

Randy
Scappoose

namu mac · 04-22-2008, 05:02 PM

It seems that what ever the bunk material is it will scuff the bottom paint off a little each time you put the boat back on the trailer. That paint is pretty soft.
I use an electric winch with my 26' boat and it works great. I do use a snatch block and a double line pull. I think it is a RC 30 Power Winch.

DriftR · 04-23-2008, 08:34 AM

24' NorthRiver Offshore Seahawk, King Triple axle salt water trailer, King trailer side load guide ons, bunks with plastic covers, Power Winch #912.
I load and unload that puppy by myself and that combo works great for me.
Advice-Get some side load guide arms for your trailer. This will eliminate the side drift when you load.
One other memory. First seatrial on the above boat I had to hand winch the beast onto the trailer. I ordered the 12 v. electric PowerWinch 912 the next day.

bobross · 04-23-2008, 08:48 AM

Randy, Since my original post, I bought a Powerwinch 30. Here are my observations. Shop around. I got it on line from a discount house for $350. I have used it 2x. The first time, it put tremendous stress on the winch post, and seemed to be laboring with my heavy boat. I rigged a SS cable backstay with turnbuckle on the winch post to relieve some of the stress. I put some of the plastic bunk slicks on parts of the bunks. I used the pulley to double the mechanical advantage (pulling power). I anchored the winch cable on the hitch ball on the truck to further relieve any stress on the trailer. Second time went a lot smoother. Big smile on my wife's face. You do lose a little bottom paint. On the other hand, I was losing a little bottom paint the other way too. Still working out the kinks, but I am hopeful that we will get this down to a smooth operation.

HugeDuckFan · 04-23-2008, 09:19 AM

My 3301 Striper is about 15K full o' fuel and gear. I Have a bunk trailer with a hand winch which, and bottom paint. I have to power into the cradle, and I don't see any way of ever making a one man show out of this task. I also have a permanent back up camera on them truck (another on my camper...cat's meow!) I too had issues with the bottom paint resistance on the carpeted bunks. A tip given to me by my dealer, squirt some ivory liquid dish soap on the bunks before loading...all natural, doesn't affect the bottom pain and provides a little lubrication for the ride up into the cradle...makes it MUCH smoother getting into the cradle.

The goal posts, I just had them added by Potter Webster in Portland...sweet. My stern is about 4' off the trailer, when I'm in the cradle, winds and currents make it tricky to stay lined up, unti lthe truck pulls me forward. I'll post some pics when I load it up for the trip to Newport Halibut opener.

I will be adding the electric winch too...just not yet.

Pilar · 04-23-2008, 11:09 AM

I have an electric Rule T40 with a pulley in the cable. For going on three years now it has performed on every haulout. Since I operate 'Kismet' as a trailer boat, that's pretty much every time. I think ths is the original unit . so 28 yrs old now. Just recently I noticed that the internal circuit breaker seems to trip too easily.

Don't forget the wire and a breaker sized for the current draw. You can buy a nice winch and then disable it by not using big enough wire.

They still make a Rule T42. About $650.

Another thing .. don't expect to winch the boat all the way up the trailer with any winch. Most people have to back the trailer in as they haulout to reduce the strain on the bow eye, cable, winch post and winch.

No Bail · 04-23-2008, 12:19 PM

Sideboards, winch, anchoring, current & wiring, common sense and eye bolts. Good stuff and I appreciate the rehash. Thanks.

bobross · 04-23-2008, 01:25 PM

Regarding wiring, as brought up by Pilar. I wired it to the truck battery. I fashioned a disconnect at the bumper. Used a plug for an electric trolling motor (M and F ends). It was the only thing I found that was for 2 wires, and had wires of the appropriate size (6 or 8 gauge) to handle the amperage.

Pilar · 04-23-2008, 02:58 PM

I did the same thing. 6 AWG wire and a total run of wire about 35'. I use a self resetting 40 amp breaker at the battery end of the positive wire. Do not use the frame of the truck as your return wire. It won't work for very long.