Aluminum Boat for ocean use -- should I treat it or let it oxidize?

w-fly · 10-27-2007, 04:58 PM

Hey Dogs,
Been on the OPB plan for a few years after selling my trophy & I'm getting excited about getting a new boat...Rod is helping rig my Stabi up right, & he said I should ask you guys about treatment of Aluminum.

After searching the archives & reading dozens of informative threads on corrosion I'm leaning toward NOT treating the aluminum, as this seems to be the best path to avoid bigger problems later. Seems like the only downside is that the boat will become dull gray.

Any advice? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

-Will

This is what she looks like now:

olybirds · 10-27-2007, 07:12 PM

well, I'll chime in as an aluminum boat owner.

Im not sure what "bigger problems" you are thinking of in your post...

Here's my take. For about $80 in sharkshide and a couple gallons of laquer thinner to remove the black aluminum residue, you can make your boat look close to new for several years before having to redo. i would recommend putting it on before the boat ever hits the water.

I have an 03' boat that looks a lot better than a lot of 07's that Ive seen out there. So Im thinking when it comes to re-sale, i'll be far ahead of other boats, just by the mere appearance of the boat.

Also Ive noticed no pitting at all of my aluminum where the S-hide was applied, and there is some pitting on places that i didnt apply it to...

w-fly · 10-27-2007, 08:58 PM

Here are some informative posts from the archives:

http://www.cmiengineer.com/whitepape..._corrosion.pdf

http://www.ifish.net/board/showthrea...osion+aluminum

http://www.ifish.net/board/showthrea...osion+aluminum

Bigmaverick · 10-27-2007, 09:13 PM

Nice Boat!! My buddy bought a Stabi also from Bob and Rod and let me tell you, That is one incredible boat. I Have been out for Tuna and Chicken ranch Hali and have never felt more safe in that boat. Your gonna love it. Congrats

Bob5292 · 10-28-2007, 02:44 AM

If you go with the Sharkshide, make sure the boat is extremely clean. I was going to have the factory do my Raider but the dealer insisted that they do just as good a job, for half the price. When I went to pick the boat up, it looked dirty. I didn't think much of it but when I got home, I realized the dirt was sealed in under the sharkshide. It is a fairly easy fix, but it can easily be avoided if you take your time and make sure the boat is spotless before you start.

Bob

Tacklebuster · 10-28-2007, 04:34 AM

I guess you need to ask yourself just if you want a shiny boat with lots of elbow grease or a boat that nature protects and the hull isn't so shiny. You can put a brand new aluminum boat in fresh water and get the little white specks so that isn't salt related. You will get a majority of your pitting in the winter from the roads in which you drive on. I just got the full paint and don't worry what the bottom looks like. If I was to ever go aluminum again... I would go no paint and let nature do all the work.

jimh · 10-28-2007, 06:29 AM

I'd treat it. The problem with not is you'll have a noticable line. Also, I don't think the corrosion does anything positive for your fuel efficiency.

Bait O' Eggs · 10-28-2007, 07:33 AM

From a guy who put sharkhide on the outside and not the inside I would put no sharkhide on if I was doing it again.

There will be spots that either get missed, or you wont do, and they look really funny next to the sharkhide. I have lots of dock rubs and those really show up when the sharkhide gets rubbed off.

The sharkhide does as it is advertised. The untouched sharkhide spots after 3 years still look almost brand new, but everywhere its been scuffed, scraped or not done stand out.

But then again I am not talking about a Stabi

Something Good · 10-28-2007, 09:42 AM

I would let it oxidize if you want low maintenence. If you want the boat to stay shiny and you don't mind hours and hours of maintenence while everyone else is out fishing then you should treat it.

slabhunter · 10-28-2007, 11:32 AM

As an owner of of a 22' aluminum boat I'd allow the raw surface to naturally harden. Might not look as good, but would help aviod problems with crevice corrosion in the long run.

jamescaird · 10-28-2007, 09:56 PM

Have an Alumaweld drift boat that's seen some tidewater over it's 29 years,except for the bottom never been treated. Had a Alumaweld Stryker for 9 years never treated.Put up for sale at a reasonable price,sold in one day. Have a Searunner that was treated either by the dealer or factory and looks like crap.I'll just keep it clean and let it age.My thinking is that maintance and safety are more important than a shiny hull.

salmon whisperer · 10-28-2007, 10:49 PM

as a Stabi owner myself. I must say, NICE VESSELLLLLLL... The first thing I would do is check your drain plugs. Mine were plastic (great idea...but) that were secured in with screws that were a different allow than the hull and one of the plugs (after a while) almost fell out in my hand... socket, plug and all and the rest were on their way. I keep mine in a Tacoma WA marina from April to October and am glad that I have had the bottom sealed, primed, and painted.

The Stabi rep Dan Lomax was FANTASTIC and got the repair covered. I believe that they are using diffferent fasteners now, But I would double check the plug screws.

Mine is painted white on the topside so I have to envy your decission SHE SURE IS PURRRRDY now I would hate to se her lose her shiny-ness.

Go_Getter · 10-29-2007, 07:21 AM

Well I would go with the sharkhide. I have it on mine and I must say it works well. Take your time, clean good first and apply 3 coats. I doubt you will miss any spots that way. As far as rubs and dock rash what I do is after cleanup I just wipe a little on those spots and they never show. So I guess it's just what you prefer, either a great looking awesome boat still great looking after time, or just an awesome boat...?

That is a really Sweet ride, congratulations!

w-fly · 10-29-2007, 08:40 AM

Thanks for your inputs guys....Seems like the group is split on this one

. Experience guys coming up on both sides.

--> To keep boat looking like new go w/ Sharkhide, but make sure the boat is spotless before applying & don't miss any spots.

--> For simple, low maintenece protection leave untreated. Could be some issues w/ pitting from road de-icer.

The boat has the all alum interior as well...could be tough to find a decent stopping point for the coverage.

BOE:
So your saying you would NOT do it again & leave it all untreated?
"From a guy who put sharkhide on the outside and not the inside I would put no sharkhide on if I was doing it again."

Salmon Whisperer:
Rod/Bob are all over the drain plugs, they have retrofitted all 4! of them to a more robust threaded design (might be able to make that out from the second pic if you zoom in). Mine will be a trailered boat for now.

Chrome Bumper · 10-29-2007, 09:21 AM

A nice new boat? Sharkhide it. Bottom paint if you moor it. When you go to sell it it would probably be worth it to have it shiny, and maintaining the shine will make that easiest. Hey nice boat, what motors are you getting?

reelselfish · 10-29-2007, 03:17 PM

I have had 2 aluminum boats one with one without like the sharkhide best easy to touch up also, best done on a cool day. however thats just what I like on my boat have seen some untreated that look great. It comes down to you are the one that has to look at it,what do you like?

w-fly · 10-29-2007, 06:11 PM

CB: Rigging w/ EFI Honda 90s.

I'm more concerned about corrosion resistance & durability than looks...guess that could change if/when I go to resell.

Can I buff it up later if I change my mind?

Legend21 · 10-30-2007, 06:49 AM

Well I gotta agree with the Sharkhiders out there.

I have an '07 North River and it did an excellent job on it! We missed a few spots on the initial coat, but after two it looked awesome, and it touches up great when your at home cleaning up. As you can see from all the posts here it's really all about what you want the look of your boat to be. Good luck and sweet looking boat man, congrats.

backlash442 · 10-30-2007, 07:02 AM

No direct experience just a thought. The top of the boat isn't painted so are you going to sharkhide that? It will get saltwater on it even more so if you leave it in the water from condensation.

PugtSounDav · 10-30-2007, 09:51 PM

As the owner of a once new and shiney aluminum boat, I recommend letting it oxidize naturally. ANYTHING that you put on top of aluminum will QUICKLY get scratched/dinged/scuffed, etc. The finer the finish, the more noticable the blemishes! These will bother you alot more than the gradual and even "patina" that will form on uncoated aluminum. You will expend lots of effort in vain with futile attempts to stop the inevitable.

Fishing boats are tools of the trade that we USE on the wild waters, not antique cars that you PRESERVE in the garage.

Save money (or invest in bottom paint) now, spend more time fishing the whole time you own your boat, (it may be longer than you think), then, IF you decide to sell it, pay somebody to buff the whole thing out, and sell the next owner a bright and shiney boat.

PS - that's a serious looking boat you've got there! it'll look even more so, after it looses that "Rookie" gleam

w-fly · 10-30-2007, 10:54 PM

Thanks for all the great advice!

Leaning toward all natural still, but now considering treating sides/roof pontoons up w/ sharkhide. Either way the hull needs a good scrub as it's sat out in the elements for a while.

I'll post some pics when we gets all rigged!!
(Not looking forward to drilling all those holes...Rod can tell you, I have a hole-phobia

)

Chrome Bumper · 10-31-2007, 08:17 AM

You can buff later, but it will be more work.

weekender · 10-31-2007, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w-fly

Can I buff it up later if I change my mind?

I've buffed my sled numerous times. It takes a little time, but really isnt bad. Last time I did it I used a high speed pneumatic buffer and the difference between that and an electric was night and day. It took less than 50% of the time.

BARCHASER · 10-31-2007, 08:44 AM

I've had the Sharkhide on my NR for 2 1/2 yrs now and it does work. The only real downside is the rub marks from bumpers. Couple months ago I filled the boat on the water and it belched up about one gallon of gas and it did stain the hull, mostly at the waterline. Somebody advised me on this thread to hit the stained spots with lacquer thinner again and then recoat with Sharkhide and that worked.

I put the Sharkhide on myself before I ever put it in the water. It was easy. Before appying the Sharkhide I went over the whole hull with lacquer thinner. The thinner is pretty toxic so use rubber gloves.

BiteFactory · 10-31-2007, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w-fly

Thanks for all the great advice!

Leaning toward all natural still, but now considering treating sides/roof pontoons up w/ sharkhide. Either way the hull needs a good scrub as it's sat out in the elements for a while.

I'll post some pics when we gets all rigged!!
(Not looking forward to drilling all those holes...Rod can tell you, I have a hole-phobia

)

It's only the first hole or two, after that it gets a lot easier.