Bobber stops...any new ideas?

[Boxcar]

I usually use the ole' "rubber" method but thought you out there in fish land may know of some other techniques.
Any help?

[Thumper]

20 lb orange or chartreuse dacron tied on with a nail knot top and bottom is great. Tying the bottom knot just above the swivel keeps your bobber from floating off when you break off just above the swivel.

As stated above.

Cut a piece long enough to pull the knot tight after tying.

Cross the dracon piece in a circle on top of your line.

Hold it ALL where the dacron circle crosses your line.

Take one end of the dacron piece and bring it under your line and back through the circle, four or five times.

Pull both ends tight until the knot can be moved, but not loose at all.

Tighter is better so the bite takes down the bobber, instead of slipping through the knot, and not pulling the bobber under, too late or not at all.

Use a bead or bead and corkie on top of your bobber. Visual aid as well as makes sure the knot stops good and pulls directly down on the bobber.

Cut the knot ends short enough that they will still slip through the rod eyes easily, but long enough to still be able to keep the knot tightened up. Check that often.

Use a bobber JUST big enough bobber to support the weight of your sinker and the bait, but the bobber still floats above. Don't need what Bait of Eggs will tell you is a Flatlander Bobber, where the thing is so big, it will go under, but the smaller the easier it goes down and casts. This all reels up nicely so you can cast or slip it over the side of the boat.

I use a Hook with leader to a heavy swivel.

Right above the swivel is a bead, then a 3/4 to 1 ounce egg sinker in the middle, another bead right below the bobber, and as stated above, a bead and corkie right above the bobber and under the bobber stop. The egg sinker is nice right on the line, without having to use tubing or clips or something, which can foul your swivel at times.

Don't waste your money on devices or rubber for the bobber stopper. Good long piece will make a million of them.

For anyone interested. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]



[ 07-27-2001: Message edited by: ****** ]

[birdhunter]

Great post ******. The only thing I would add is some other materials. Fly backing line is excellent for the bobber stop. In a pinch, you can use heavy fishing line. 20 lb is okay, but I prefer 30. Cut off about 6" and run it up and down a file so it gets some grip to it. Don't work it too hard to where you put big nicks in it. Just want to get the surface rough. This will help keep the knot tight. Tie it up, pull tight and cut off the excess. Everything else is already covered.

[Da Big Catch]

Boxcar,
I recently was on a small expedition at the end of the North Jetty salmon fishing and realized I had no bobber stoppers, fortunately my fishing partner was able to locate the perfect bobber stopper, a small twig that I slipped in-between the bobber and my mainline that worked excellent. Just my 2 cents-

[img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[dogfishboy]

I second that good post thing ****** [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]. Hey Birdhunter, I gave up tying mono years ago and switched to dacron stoppers because of the slip factor. I'll have to try the scruffed up mono thingy, thanks.

dfb

[Bait O' Eggs]

******, that was a nice post, but you told me to just tie a knot in the line where I wanted the bobber to stop sliding. [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] You told me a simple overhand knot would do wonders for stopping the bobber, and it does. [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[smilesforu]

Lets see
rubber band doubled on itself and trimmed close,


small splitshot,
Or how about the ole reversed bobber stop toothpicked corkie below float. Use this one with a lead that will slide down line sit on the bottom above the sliding float. Keeps float positioned from getting wind blown to shore. (Float Plunking [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img])

Dental floss with bead (tied with doubled overhand knot)

[Get Bit]

BC,
Fishbait got me into using the fly line backing a few years ago. You can buy it in short sections off the bulk spools and the chartreuse colored stuff helps to see that it stays in tact(not fraying like dacron). It is much thinner than dacron so it slides easily through the guides. Seems like its easier to adjust while staying put when you need it to. The knot I use is the similar to Nanooks description. It works awesome.
Tight Lines,
GetBit

[ampersat]

just a quick $.02.

i carry a small spool of 15lb test for tying leaders in case i run out of pre-tied hooks. i run 15lb mainline and trust that the knots will give before the line does. on a bobber setup, i usually tie the cinch knot on the leader because it's weaker. if i hang up, i have to thumb the spool to break the knot, so i know that when i hook up i won't break off because the drag is too tight.
anyway, it works just fine for tying bobber stops. single loop next to the line, then wrap around five times. tighten it down with the tag ends, then using your thumbnail against the knot, pull each tag end to tighten up the knot. fewer wraps than that and it comes apart too easy, more than that and you stress the mainline adjusting your depths. the more you adjust your depth, the looser the knot gets. i carry a pair of nail clippers tied to my sharpening file; if you're careful, you can cut away the bobber stop without hurting your mainline, then tie on again.