Recurve question about draw weight vs compund bow

Matthewc · 08-31-2007, 05:37 PM

I want to get the Fred Bear Supermag 48

IM currently shooting a Bowtech EQ set at 51.2 lbs

What should I get in the recurve to match the draw weight ? 45, 50, or 55? so it is about the same for me as my Bowtech.......

Thanks to anyone who answers

sliverpicker · 08-31-2007, 06:22 PM

If you ever plan on hunting elk with the weapon, it's supposed to be 50# at your draw length.

How long is the Bear bow? Some bows stack up in a hurry, especially if short in length. What's your length?

I'm 6'3" and shoot a 29.5 inch arrow. My recurve is 60# @ 29 inches.

Matthewc · 08-31-2007, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sliverpicker

If you ever plan on hunting elk with the weapon, it's supposed to be 50# at your draw length.

How long is the Bear bow? Some bows stack up in a hurry, especially if short in length. What's your length?

I'm 6'3" and shoot a 29.5 inch arrow. My recurve is 60# @ 29 inches.

My bowtech is 32 and the Bear Super mage 48 is 48 ...The stacking up fast is why I am asking because what is 50 lbs on a compound could feel like 80 in a recurve so I want a balance...I was thinking the 50 but I want to get your guys opinions first..

Hookset · 08-31-2007, 06:31 PM

Hey Matthew, I can answer this for you.

Since you're pulling 51.2 pounds during the peak of the draw cycle with the Bow Tech, a 50lb recurve will be a close match since the amount you draw is the same between both bows. However, with the compound you're only holding 10 - 18 pounds at full draw depending on the let-off percentage. With the recurve, you're holding the full 50lbs at full draw. That's a huge difference and something you'll need to consider. Most people when switching from a compound to a recurve will find the added holding weight reduces the draw length by one inch and requires a lot more time to master the extra weight at full draw. So starting out with less poundage to learn good fundamentals is a good way to start. Also, if you're going after elk with a recurve, you'll want a minimum of 50 pounds draw weight to be legal.

good luck,

Gregg

QH's Paw · 08-31-2007, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthewc

My bowtech is 32 and the Bear Super mage 48 is 48 ...The stacking up fast is why I am asking because what is 50 lbs on a compound could feel like 80 in a recurve so I want a balance...I was thinking the 50 but I want to get your guys opinions first..

If you look on your recurve bow there is an AMO rating in pounds. That is it's rating at the AMO standard of 28" draw. Depending on the bow's length and material each additional inch of draw will be more poundage( some people use 5lbs. per inch for a guideline/start point). On a compound the peak weight occurs in the middle of the draw not at the end. Also, a compound poundage rating is usually for it's draw length.
On the recurve you will be holding the poundage at full draw. On a compound you will be holding less, how much less depends on your bow's letoff.

Hookset · 08-31-2007, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthewc

My bowtech is 32 and the Bear Super mage 48 is 48 ...The stacking up fast is why I am asking because what is 50 lbs on a compound could feel like 80 in a recurve so I want a balance...I was thinking the 50 but I want to get your guys opinions first..

A 48 inch long recurve will have a sever problem with finger pinch making a clean release more difficult, but not impossible. Also the longer the draw length on a short bow compounds this even more.

Most custom recurve bows made today are typically from 60 - 66 inches in length, with the majority at 62 or 64 inches long (making a semi-educated guess). The largest reason is longer bows are more comfortable to shoot then short bows. The recurves have evolved over the years and newer bows with modern limb designes really are a better weapon; they are smoother, have less stack and shoort and arrow faster and flatter then older bows.....if any of this really matters since lots of traditional people are into the romantic side of archery anyway.

good luck,

Gregg

Matthewc · 08-31-2007, 07:15 PM

IM just kinda shorter so I wanted a shorter bow and shorter draw length and the 48 looked good...

toas243 · 08-31-2007, 09:40 PM

Well I would go and see Wes Walllce and let the Man who makes them the best ,I would go and have his input ,and the order a nice new pretty Bow ,Oh BTW He`s in Beaver creek area

Hoosier Daddy · 09-01-2007, 07:07 AM

I wouldn't worry about going longer than 48. A longer bow is really no hindrance in the field as some might have you believe. And it will shoot nicer for you. If you're just wanting to shoot with it, go a bit light. You'll be surprised how much difference there is between the same poundage compound and recurve/longbow. I was. Get a light one and build up if you (when you) decide you like it. If you gotta hunt with it and can't afford many bows, get something just over 50 and build up to it. Best way is to go light though.
And be prepared. If you're not ready for a new passion, stay away from the trad stuff. Highly addictive.

stlhdrgrn · 09-01-2007, 07:11 AM

A curious question about recourve Vrs. compound. For You guys that hunt with them how often do you actually hold on the shot or is it draw and shoot.
I still own a recourve and shot it once in awhile. I shot a buck back in 1969 and it was draw, look, shoot. I know that I couldn't hold one at full draw very long.
I do take some satisfaction when I shoot mine to not worry about pins and just look and shoot. It's like ridding a bike you don't forget. If I ever hunt with it again I would definitly do a lot more shooting with it to know my effective range. I do understand why You guys like them.
I've had situations where I wish that I had one in hand instead of my compound. Like when you get caught in the open and a bull walks by in the open at 15 yrds and the only shot would be a quick one. There's no way to draw and shoot a compound in that situation.

Matthewc · 09-01-2007, 09:39 AM

OK wait, On a longer bow why would the draw length not be longer? My draw is pretty short..

Cool Thanks for all the advice fellas. It is realy helpful to me. Please feel free to add any additional info or shooting tips for a begginer to traditional shooting.

Thanks Big Much

quackersnacker · 09-01-2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toas243

Well I would go and see Wes Walllace and let the Man who makes them the best ,I would go and have his input ,and the order a nice new pretty Bow ,Oh BTW He`s in Beaver creek area

Wes patched up my Brack after I purchased it and he is a wealth of information, and makes some dy-no-mite bows. AS fas as the difference between short and longer bows, I don't know the technical reasons. However I can tell you my shorter bow (56") is more finicky than my longer bow (64"). It requires much more attention to my form and exaggerates any mistakes I make. I don't know if this is due to it being a one piece, and much lighter, or the shorter string length.
For what it's worth, these have been my experiences.
oh yea, my 64 is 60@ 29 and the 56 is 50@28

Hoosier Daddy · 09-01-2007, 05:43 PM

Draw length doesn't really matter on a stick bow. There's no "timing" to when a wheel kicks over or other such as on a compound. Short of breaking, a stick bow will just get heavier the more you pull it back. You might pick up my bow and draw it 27" and I'll draw it 29-30. Only difference is you'll be pulling about 48 and I'm pulling 52-ish. You end up getting something that is the poundage you want AT your draw. Done deal. Also, make sure you get your draw etc rechecked if you're going stick bow. You might be a bit different than with a compound. Even if you were already shooting fingers.
For some reason the longer bows tend to just be a bit more stable on stickbows. The main reason I was saying go longer was finger pinch. Good advice above. Find a bowyer, or find a shop with different styles, and play around till you find one that seems right.

4th_Point · 09-01-2007, 10:01 PM

I would get 2 bows. Start with 40lbs and learn the fundamentals first. Then get a heavier bow later. You can always sell the first bow. Or, get a take-down recurve and get an extra set of limbs.

I was young and stupid when I got my first recurve. It was 65#. Luckily it broke and I bought a 51# Chek-mate. Even that seems heavy for most people who are not used to shooting traditional. Most can draw it a few times, but a range session quickly turns into a humbling experience. Something in the 40-45# range is a lot of fun, and you'll advance much faster.

Good luck.

4th_Point · 09-01-2007, 10:24 PM

The advice to get a longer bow is good. A 60-64" recurve is more stable than one that is 48". Short recurves are considered "blind" or "treestand" bows. Remember that a long traditional bow is 68-72". Compounds are extremely short compared to a recurve or longbow.

Also look for something with around 8" of brace height. You will also want to make sure that your draw length is close to the number on the bow. You can draw a few inches past the stated draw length, but its better to get one that is designed for your draw.

There are lots of good bows out there for all budgets. Personally I wouldn't spend my money on a Bear. There is nothing wrong with them, but I think you can get more bow for the money, or the same quality for less money.

Matthewc · 09-01-2007, 10:48 PM

thanks all for taking the time to answer my question : )