Setting up for reloading

[Hawk]

I'm looking to set up to reload my own brass. We shoot 7mm Remington Magnum, 300 Weatherby Magnum, and soon to be added to the arsenal) two AR's.

What do you guys recommend for a setup?

I used to reload as a kid, and the balance beam scales and powder trickler were a pain. I'm looking at going digital with the RCBS or Lyman digital scales. Are those decent?

We didn't clean our brass back then, but do we need to?

Do we need to length-trim our cases?

Finally, what about a press? Turet? Non-turet? RCBS or somebody else? What is a progressive press?

[Gus Orviston]

Progressive reloader allows you step multiply cartridges quickly, with one pull, 1st pull of the lever a cleaned case gets a primer, the second pull it rotates to get its pre measured powder charge - while a new brass enters the first stage getting a primer,, 3rd stage pull the bullet is dropper in, while the first 2 cartridges rotate through and a new one enters, and if you have a 4th stage (crimping) then that can occur too. you can configure these to do the different steps to custom settings.

you still use the scales to set up your charge.. and I like to check my loads often, visually and do some validation of the load back on the scale to make sure it is all flowing well.

Once you get it all going it takes no time to kick out several hundred rounds.

As for the best.. dunno.. I only used a RCBS rock crusher and as a pistol reloader it was not a optimum solution. I think Lyman has better pistol configurations. But for rifle the rock crusher delivers exellent leverage on the pull to get all the jobs done well.

I lagged my , very sturdy work bench, to the studs in the wall of my garage. That way when you pull down there is no table wobble and you get a very efficient pull.

now I would like to hear more on the different reloading brands..

gus

[cwh]

Hey Hawk,
I'd suggest you do a search on this, as I know I've asked very similar questions and gotten great answers. Also, check out http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums

As a beginning reloader, I'd suggest starting with a single stage press, simply because as you advance, they are still useful to have. Keep an eye on ebay and craigslist, and you can get a press and dies for pretty reasonable prices. If/when you decide you want to go progressive, you will still have another press to do your big rifle and low volume reloading on.
Have fun man,
-cwh

[HOGGEMIN]

I use a Forester Bonaza and a Dillion Presses. Dillon has a great catalog and has great products and a totally awsome customer service. I would get a media tumbler and for acuracy get a case trimmer. Dillion makes a military primer de-burrer so you can buy military 223 once fired brass cheap. I buy military 223 once fired brass buy the 5 gallon bucket.

[Soft Plastic]

Well, for a single stage setup it is hard to go wrong with the Rockchucker master reloading set from RCBS. It includes everything you need to get started and is rock solid. There are other starter kits that are pretty good including the Lee which is much cheaper in price, but RCBS is what I have and I recommend it as a satisfied customer. If you start shooting alot of rounds like you will when you get the AR you will eventually want a progressive. Dillon is the king here, but again there are others that are also very good. As for the electronic measures the only knock I have heard on them is a lack of speed. For most powder dispensing chores the powder measure is a fast, accurate, repeatable tool and works great. My recommendation is to buy a single stage starter kit from one of the top 2 or 3 reloading companies, Get a hand priming tool, and use the equipment to become profecient. Then later if you want a progressive sell what you have and upgrade.

[Catching Nemo]

Presses
Progressive means that each time you pull the handle an action is performed in each station and the case is automatically indexed to the next spot.

Example
Station 1: Decap and resize
Station 2: Prime
Station 3: powder charge
Station 4: seat bullet
Station 5: crimp

With the single stage, that you grew up with, you can only perform one of those actions at a time. The turret press will allow you to do all of those actions, without having to change out the die, but you have to manually rotate the head to align the next station.

I'm currently running 3 presses. The first is the Hornady L-N-L progressive for high volume pistol and rifle rounds. For lower volume rifle I use a RCBS JR3 (with L-N-L insert). Finally I have a Redding T-7 currently setup with my most often used neck size and factory crimp dies.

Scale/dispenser
I have the RCBS electronic scale and powder dispenser and it works well but is a little slow. Like other electronic scales it can be sensitive to heat fluctuations. However, it isn't bothered by fluorescent lights like my older digital was. I would wait on this piece of equipment until you find that you really need or want it.

Cleaning
I clean them now but I didn't always. Only difference is in how they look. However, I always made sure to clean necks and primer pockets.

Trimming
Yes you should and it is easy to do.


Make sure you check on Craigslist and ebay for used presses. I picked up an excellent condition RCBS JR3 for $15 and a LNIB Redding T-7 Turret press for $100. Also, you can purcahse a decent tumbler at Harbor Freight for a lot less than othe "brand" named ones. If you want to go with a brand new package, I would focus on RCBS and Hornady single stage kits. The advantage of the Hornady is the Lock N Load system which makes changing dies fast and easy. However, you can also buy a conversion kit for the RCBS so that it will take the LNL bushings. Stay away form any "C" style presses. It might work for the .223's but it will break on the belted mag's.

hornady.com


I would also pick up at least 3 reloading books and start reading them. Speer, Hornady, Lee and Nosler would be good ones to start with. I would stay away from Barnes for now since they seem to have almost issued a new book with all the corrections they have had to make.

[billc_sbio]

IF you wanted to start this on the "cheaps", I'd look around at some of the gunshops that carry used equipment (The Powder Horn in Forest Grove comes to mind here) or maybe on AuctionArms, etc. and see if you can pick up a good used RCBS Rockchucker Press for about 1/2 price.

Electronic Scales are great, I'd go with a Dillon as they're guaranteed for life and aren't that expensive to start with.

I'd get a Redding 3BR Powder Measure. I think it's one of the best/easiest and most accurate.

While I have a little bit of Lee equipment, much of it is somewhat "lightweight" when it comes to the materials used in it. However, the Lee AutoPrime hand Priming Tool is great!

One of your most VALUABLE Reloading Accessories is going to be a good set of Dial or Digital Calipers. You need these for checking various lengths and diameters all the time. I don't know how anybody can do any serious reloading without one.

I also really like Redding's Bushing Dies for serious Bottleneck cartridge reloading. Because of the way the conventional 2-Die sets work, with the mandrel section of the Decapping Rod, this pulls and stretches your cases, causing them to go over length more frequently (because you OVER size them down, then PULL them over the mandrel to open them back up...the only way that ALL cases can be properly sized ). However if you're using brass with a known (consistent) neck wall thickness, you use the Bushing Style Dies, with the correct size Bushing inserted (there are numerous size Bushings available) and only squeeze the Necks down "enough". This increases the life of your brass greatly.

For Pistol cartridge (straight walled), I'd say Dillon Presses and Dies all the way.

You'll want Loading Blocks also. While there are numerous "Universal" ones, molded of plastic, Midway has size specific ones in Wood that aren't expensive and are really nice.

For Precision loading and small lots of Hunting ammo, I'd stay with the Single Stage setup.

[fishncliff]

I started 10+ years ago with a LEE Anniversary set. I added electronic scale, digital caliper, and mica for lube.
Still goin strong. I load about 1000 rounds a year of mostly pistol and some rifle.
Total investment- about 450$ over 10+ years.

[baltz526]

all good info, i'll add the powder measure is a critical piece for 223 size cases and the scale in the rockchucker kit is all you will ever need for rifle. if you start shotshell reloading, i'm finding you need an accurate scale that weigh ounces in grains.

[Hunt'nFish]

Hawk,
If it weren't for the AR's I'd say a good single stage w/ digital scale/dispensor would do you fine.
HOWEVER, given the consumption rate of the AR's I can't help but feel you'll soon tire of the onesy-twosy rate of the single stage. So be on the lookout for a Dillion progressive. (I love my 650 w/ case feeder!!!!)

I agree w/ Bill's recommendation about buying used gear. I started that way and did pretty good on my $$. I also feel the RCBS powder dispensor is pretty much useless....too much variation. I have a old Pacific measure that throws much more consistant and have loaded many a rifle round straight out of it w/o top trickling to final charge on the scales. I will also say I find the Dillon measure extremely consistant as well and my load data doesn't show a differance between single stage or the dillon. I now load all my .223 on the D-650.

Digital calipers here too! Stoney point makes some niffty accessories for measuring max chamber OAL and such....w/ the digitals you can "zero" out the stoney point gages, with the dial calipers you can't.....as easily anyway.

Case tumblers are a must....IMO. For .223 I'll size my cases on the single stage, tumble them to clean off the lube and then run them through the Dillon for loading with the sizing die backed off a bit and let the primer decapping pin clean the flash hole of tumbling media.

For lube I use a 99% IPA alcohol w/ a touch of lanoline added in a pump spray bottle. I just dumped the clean cases into a big tupperware tub and spray a little IPA/lube on them shake until all cases are coated and then let the alcohol evaporate and it leaves a very thin film of lube behind. Works great! Tubes of lanoline are avaliable at most medical supply stores and the bigger drug stores. Remember a little lube goes a long way, so don't over do it on the mix.

Have full and be safe...always wear your eye protection. Trust me! I had a bunch of primers go off in another brand of progressive press....that's what pushed me toward forking the $$ over for a Dillon. Dillon is like Leupold....No BS and you only spend $$ once.
Hunt'nFish

Did I mention I LOVE my RCBS Digital Pro & dispensor?? Love it!

PS: for loading blocks the plastic .45acp carriers that you see everyone leave behind out on the woods make great loading blockes. The 9mm ones are good for .223 also. Please folks pick up you trash when you shoot out in the woods. PLEASE.

[billc_sbio]

So here's another little Lubing "trick" that a Service Rifle Match shooter (and reloader for LOTS of "Jr." match shooters) taught me.

For a very effective (and inexpensive) Die Lube that works really great, get a bottle of Foam Air Filter Oil from your local Motorcycle/ATV/Snowmowbile shop.

It's a mid-viscosity oil that has some volatile solvents in it, made to "dry out" and thicken in/on your Foam Air Filter Element.

However, for our use, use just a FEW drops of it on a Reloading Lube (or large Ink) Pad. Roll your cases over it then size.

It lubes the cases very well for the dies, and then most of the solvents evaporate away. There's almost nothing left! You can roll the cases on a clean paper towel and it will take away just about all of any oil residue.

There's no mixing to do (however I don't have a good "bulk" procedure for this), it's super cheap, and easy to do.

A 1 Qt. bottle of lube will last almost FOREVER (My one bottle is over 10 yr.s old, and barely touched)

There are plenty of ways to lube, and more now than ever with the introduction of spray lubes, dry lubes, tumble lubes, etc.

But give this a try, I did, and I'm still using this method.

[goforchrome]

I just started a yr or so ago and had many questions and no one to show me.
READ, READ, READ.
Read everything you can in manuals and reloading forums.
Centerfire rifle, especially magnums, are unforgiving.
Set up a bench and have NO DISTRACTIONS.
This is not one of the hobbies that is enjoyed with a good beer.
I asked for a Lee Anniversary kit for Christmas and it has almost everything you need, except dies and caliper.
Some will say Lee is junk, and if it is, I work well with junk.
Less than $100 and I'm cranking out good ammo.
If I were shooting alot of 223, or if I want alot of pistol ammo, a progressive is a good idea.
For 10 or 20 7mm's (or, for me 300WSM and 7mm-08)at a time, with good accuracy, I love my Lee press and dies.
Learn all you can before you drop powder and if something doesn't look or feel right, don't shoot it, show it to someone who knows more than you.
Also, don't be afraid to pull the bullet and start over.
Hope this helps.

[billc_sbio]

Originally Posted by goforchrome

if something doesn't look or feel right, don't shoot it, show it to someone who knows more than you.
Also, don't be afraid to pull the bullet and start over.
Hope this helps.

That's some VERY sage advice, especially coming from a newbie reloader

IF and when (and it happens to everybody, sooner or later) you get some "suspect" loaded cartridges, CHECK them, by WEIGHING. Weigh 3-4 known "Good" cartridges, and this will easily verify if you loaded too little or too much powder.

(It won't necessarily help if you loaded the correct weight of the WRONG Powder )

So, eventually, in your Reloading "Bag of Tricks" you'll want to throw in some form of Bullet Puller. If the job isn't too big, I like the Inertia (hammer style) Bullet Pullers.

[Hunt'nFish]

Originally Posted by billc_sbio

So, eventually, in your Reloading "Bag of Tricks" you'll want to throw in some form of Bullet Puller. If the job isn't too big, I like the Inertia (hammer style) Bullet Pullers.

Same here. Hammers don't hurt the bullet and it can be reloaded just fine. Crimp pullers typically damage the bullet.
I also like to recheck finished loads on the digital scale. If cases were close to the same weight....like they should be, the finished cartridges will be within a grain or so. If they aren't, I pull it and recheck things. Another reason I like my digital scales....I get a number w/o sliding weights and messing around.
Hunt'nFish

I will also add the book "The ABC of Reloading" is written by some of the top handload writers around and it was my bible so to speak. That and Shooting Times gun rag and The Varmint Hunter Mag and Precision Reloading were all publications that I gleened for additional knowledge.

[bigjake_888]

Redneck Bullet Puller:

Insert loaded case into press with no die.
Extend case up past threaded die bushing.
Grab bullet with channel locks while the case is up through the press.
Pull the case down with the press while holding on to the bullet.
Discard Bullet.

[BrianMaguire]

Originally Posted by Hunt'nFish

If cases were close to the same weight....like they should be, the finished cartridges will be within a grain or so. If they aren't, I pull it and recheck things. Another reason I like my digital scales....I get a number w/o sliding weights and messing around.
.

A digital scale is the way to go, I started with a beam scale and thought a digital was a waste of money, man was I wrong, the best money I spent on my setup.