Pheasants - Limitied Knowledge, Need Input Please

Boatdog · 10-09-2006, 10:32 AM

Thanks to my wife, I'm going on an opening weekend pheasant hunt in Eastern Oregon. She has a new friend that invited us over for the weekend.

I've never targeted pheasants before, so I am looking for your thoughts.

I shoot a Remington 870 Magnum Express 2-3/4" or 3". Is lead #6 shot the proper medicine for pheasants? I have an Improved Modified choke. Is that a satisfactory choke? Should I use the 3" shells, or the 2-3/4"? I have no idea. :whazzup:

Pretty sure we'll be hunting over dogs, on private land.

Thanks for your thoughts and experience!

cwh · 10-09-2006, 10:40 AM

You are in for some fun! Pheasants are a blast... nothing quite like the heart attack of a pheasant flushing.

You will get a lot of advice on the shot and the choke. Bottom line is, what you have will work. Ideally, I'd probably say shoot an IC for the opener, but if they are flushing farther out, Mod is good. Either will work if you hit what you're aiming at :smile: For shot, I'd go #5 or 4, but that's just me. Pheasants can sometimes go down but not die, and that's not a nice thing to have happen, especially when you know there are limited numbers of birds.

PS: bring something Orange, preferably a hat and a jacket. Can't be too visible when people are excited.

PPS: Can I go? Just kidding... have fun.

billc_sbio · 10-09-2006, 10:44 AM

2-3/4" 1-1/4 oz. Lead #6s

Later in the season maybe drop down to #5s (or #4s if you can't find #5s)

Buy GOOD shells (not "Pheasant Loads")! Spend $2-$3 more a box and get the "good stuff". (Federal "Premiums" come to mind).

IF you have to use Non-Toxic, Hevi-Shot #6s should be great or Bismuth #6s or even Hevi-Steel #4s.

With all BUT Steel Shot I'd drop back to Modified Choke, maybe even Imp. Cyl. early on and if the birds are flushing close.

And IF using Steel Shot I'd use Imp. Cyl.

Imp. Mod. is too tight IMHO

Boatdog · 10-09-2006, 11:00 AM

cwh and billc_sbio,

Thanks!

Everyone I've talked to has recommended an IC or Mod choke, so I guess I better add those to my collection of, um, one.

Still have my ear to the computer screen...

WSU · 10-09-2006, 11:06 AM

I lived in Pullman last season and shot over 90 pheasants (it was a great hatch). I shot an over-under with a modified barrel and a full choke barrel. You should do fine with improved-modified. You don't need to buy federal premium loads, but don't buy cheap loads either. I would say lead 6's or 5's would be fine, but make sure you buy 1 1/4 ounce loads that are 3 3/4 dram. Last year I ended up shooting 4's by the end of the year as the birds got wild but the opening weekend birds are usually within 40 yards, often much closer. I used to shoot a pump and would buy a box of expensive shells to shoot as my last shot. Something with a lot of shot, like 1.5 ounces of 4's and put that in as my third shot. Often a would have a bird get out after hitting it a few times (or heaven forbid missing twice) and kill it with the heavy load. But, like I said, you should be fine with a good pheasant load in 5's or 6's.

billc_sbio · 10-09-2006, 11:36 AM

WSU has said that you could get by with an Imp. Mod. Choke (tube), and he's right...

BUT, considering you'll be hunting early season birds which will often hold until you're right on top of them (and will scare you to death when they come up, often with a loud cackle, sometimes right between your feet! :shocked: :grin

, your shots will probably be really close. (In fact, sometimes it's better to let them get out a little ways)

And with a really tight choke you might miss them, OR you mght hit them and all those extra pellets in that really tight circle won't leave you much to dine on!

For that "GREAT new experience" (Pheasant hunting) I'd spend the extra $16 over at Bi-Mart and get a Modified Choke.

I too shoot Mod-Full for Lead in my O/U, but on my single barrel guns for Pheasants it's usually Mod.

(and for some shots even Mod. is on the tight side

)

ogrejager · 10-09-2006, 11:46 AM

I don't have anything to add to this, the advice you've got is right on the money.

Boatdog · 10-09-2006, 11:57 AM

I'm still wondering about the shotshells.

2-3/4" versus 3". Why? Is it that I won't need the extra speed and payload (i.e. longer shot string) of the 3"?

Seems that #6 lead shot with an improved cylinder choke is the combo for the early pheasant hunt. I'll go with that. I'm sure that the other guys there will share a better load if they have it, and I need it.

Thanks again!

Hawk · 10-09-2006, 12:00 PM

Quote:

early season birds which will often hold until you're right on top of them (and will scare you to death when they come up, often with a loud cackle, sometimes right between your feet! :shocked: :grin

I like early season pheasants! Nothing like getting the poop scared out of you to get the heart rate back up!

Quail and chukars flush way to quiet for me. It's like you look up and, dang, there they go! :shocked:

Hawk · 10-09-2006, 12:03 PM

Quote:

I'm still wondering about the shotshells.

2-3/4" versus 3". Why? Is it that I won't need the extra speed and payload (i.e. longer shot string) of the 3"?

Seems that #6 lead shot with an improved cylinder choke is the combo for the early pheasant hunt. I'll go with that. I'm sure that the other guys there will share a better load if they have it, and I need it.

I'm no expert, but I think 3" shells get you #1 a few more pellets in the air, and #2 a little longer range shot when you get down into the #3's, #2's, BB's and BBB's; which isn't a big deal when you're shooting 4's, 5's, and 6's on pheasants.

I shoot a 3" magnum 12 gauge; the first two rounds are usually #4 or #6, and the last round is a #2 or so.

Boatdog · 10-09-2006, 12:09 PM

Thanks!

2-3/4" shells it is then!

billc_sbio · 10-09-2006, 12:35 PM

Quote:

I'm still wondering about the shotshells.

2-3/4" versus 3". Why? Is it that I won't need the extra speed and payload (i.e. longer shot string) of the 3"?

Seems that #6 lead shot with an improved cylinder choke is the combo for the early pheasant hunt. I'll go with that. I'm sure that the other guys there will share a better load if they have it, and I need it.

Thanks again!

I'm not where I can look it up right now, but if my memory serves me correctly, there's ~225 Lead #6s in an ounce of shot (Corrected, thanks Chromoflage!

). That gives the 1-1/4 oz. load 281 pellets in its pattern. And that should be PLENTY!

IF you went to a heavier 3" loading, the 2 "good" loads would be the 1-3/8 oz. load or the 1-5/8 oz. load.

You really don't NEED those heavy loads, plus the added recoil can make a follow up shot or shot at another bird tougher to do. :shocked:

Another thing, back on those chokes...

Most people envision their shot pattern looking like cones with different angles of dispersion depending upon the amount of choke.

This isn't the case. It's somewhat like this for more open chokes, Skeet and Imp. Cylinder.

But when you get to Imp. Mod and Full, the pattern flies (with Lead) very tightly, then opens up suddenly out towards the end of its intended range...kind of Trumpet shaped.

That's why it's better to go with more OPEN chokes for close in shots than tighter.

A tight choke can throw a pie plate size pattern for a long way before it opens up.

If you think about the distance of the center stake on a Skeet field, that's 21 yards and that's a pretty typical distance to be shooting at close flushing roosters, so often a Skeet or Imp. Cyl. choke is a pretty good choice to go with.

Chromaflage · 10-09-2006, 12:51 PM

For #6 lead shot, there are 225 pellets per ounce. For #5, it's 170 and for #7-1/2 it's 350. As you increase shot size, you decrease the number of pellets, but, presumably, you increase the energy per pellet and vice versa. Most "Pheasant Loads" are typically 2-3/4" with 1 to 1-1/4 oz. loads and a rated muzzle velocity of around 1400 fps.

Always happy to add to the confusion. :grin:

CrF

Hawk · 10-09-2006, 01:45 PM

Has anyone found a 3" 12 gauge shell in a #6 shot? The biggest/littlest I can find is a #4. My Browning Auto 5 doesn't seem to want to cycle the 2-3/4" shells very well.

billc_sbio · 10-09-2006, 01:56 PM

Hawk,

Do you plan on EATING these Pheasants?! :grin:

On the 3" Auto-5 try TAKING OUT 1 Friction Ring and 2 Bevelled Washers...maybe put the Bevelled washers down UNDER the bottom of the Recoil Spring, next to the receiver, bevel facing away from the spring.

If it fails to eject start taking OUT the unused washer/spacers.

Set up right, the 3" Auto-5 SHOULD handle Heavy 2-3/4" loads.

Hawk · 10-09-2006, 02:14 PM

I'll pull out some the bevel washers and a friction ring and try the 2-3/4" shells again. I think it might help that I cleaned and lubed it. I should probably do that more than once every couple of years, don't you think?

When we shoot trap with it, I shoot low base 2-3/4" 12 gauge shells and it has less recoil than my 10/22. Still, I hear the gas operated semi-auto's are nicer than my mechanical Auto 5. I like my gun though; my dad bought it for me when I turned 30 a few (actually, quite a few) years ago. I like the weight and balance of the Auto 5's.

billc_sbio · 10-09-2006, 02:34 PM

Hawk, True Story for you here...

Hehe...one time I went waay away on an opening weekend waterfowl hunt.

I got out in the field and suddenly my trusty Auto-5 became a single shot!

I looked at it and checked it over...finally I figured, "It's THAT Part, that's gone bad!

"

(But, it had worked, PERFECTLY, just before I put it away)

Where I was, they even had spare parts for the A-5s, but I couldn't find THAT Part!

So they told me that I should see the local part-time gunsmith who was also a local farmer.

They told me which field he was working in and I went looking for him.

I found him at his house, having lunch.

I explained my problem, he had me go out in his front yard and try firing a couple of shots.

He then said, "Take off your Forend"!

He looked at the parts then said, "Do you use WD40 on this?"

I told him I didn't normally, but I'd sprayed the mag tube down with WD before putting the gun up at the end of the season... "That's the Problem" he said.

He went in to his garage, poured some gasoline on a rag and wiped the mag tube off thoroughly. :shocked:

Then he took one of those big tractor oil cans...the ones with the trigger on them...squirt squirt and then wiped the oil around with the rag.

"Now, put her back together and go out and fire 3 shots as quick as you can!"

I put the spring, washer, collar, barrel and forend back on, screwed the cap down tight, loaded up 3 of my 2-3/4" 1-3/8 oz #5 Duck handloads and Bang, Bang Bang!

"No charge! Now go GET some Ducks! Oh, and NEVER use WD40 on that gun! It gums up after awhile."

cwh · 10-09-2006, 04:14 PM

I hear that 3" auto-5's don't work very well, and the only solution is to sell them to HuntN'Fish for a discounted rate :smile:

Hawk · 10-09-2006, 05:28 PM

Quote:

I hear that 3" auto-5's don't work very well, and the only solution is to sell them to HuntN'Fish for a discounted rate :smile:

I think Bill & I have found that if we take care of our Auto 5's they'll take care of us.

We just forget to do our part some times! :blush:

duckboy · 10-09-2006, 07:12 PM

Have fun with those Wild Roosters,

They like to run and run and run.

I like a 12 ga in 2.75 inch #5 Lead with an Imp Cyl and Mod choke in the early season and then a mod/Imp Mod later in a #4 and 1.25 oz in both.

dixiefisher · 10-10-2006, 05:57 AM

Congrats on the hunt....I got hooked 3 years ago...and can't get enough...
I cannot add anymore advice than the great stuff you got....but one change I made last year...to help with remembering to change my chokes....my gun has an improved-modified....this is a great "all around" pattern outta my 12 ga....I shoot it all season....and it knocks em down without destroying my meal!!....