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Old 09-21-2006, 02:23 PM   #1
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Default Ask me! Electronics, autopilots, and hydraulics expert help

By popular request, and due to the great relationship with Ifish over the years, we will now be offering a post for TR-1 Autopilot users or potential customers a place to talk about TR-1 Autopilots. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have. I will monitor the thread M-F 8-5 PT, as much as possible as long as I am in the office, and evenings and weekends when I get time or if there's hot topics. If I do plan to be out and will not be able to respond I will post that as well. If you have an immediate concern please don't hesitate to call 800-588-7655 (TR-1 Factory Support) to have your questions answered. Also, we will be offering an Ifish discount through October, call me for details.

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email: rob@nautamatic.com
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:36 PM   #2
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it possible that I could have the first question? Okay so here it goes. I have a TR-1 autopilot on my boat that was installed in early May. How often do you need to check/change the oil in the pump? And what oils do you recommend? By the way I absolutely love it!!
Thanks
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:41 PM   #3
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

You are offically the first one The maintenance is just to look at the fluid level occasionally. You should not need to add fluid. If you do have to add fluid then there is a problem somewhere. You can use the biodegradeable fluid we supply (BioSoy) or Dextron III ATF is an acceptable sub.

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Old 09-21-2006, 02:59 PM   #4
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I'm getting a new / differnt boat by next spring.
I would like to put a TR1 on it and network it to a chart plotter and maybe radar. Does this work??? what chart plotter / radar does it work with???
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:21 PM   #5
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

The only thing you need to look for in getting new GPS is that it must have a NMEA 0183 communication port (any software version of NMEA). Most every unit that is not a bottom shelf brand has this capability nowdays, so you should be pretty safe in choosing.

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Old 09-21-2006, 04:45 PM   #6
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have.

Wow, I really expected this to draw interest more quickly and end up out of control! You can ask anything...
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:52 PM   #7
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Ok Number 1: why does a $2600 dollar investment only have a one year warrenty? If you only fish spring, summer, fall,Like alot of us, the warrenty time is even shorter. Just wondering.

Number Two: why does the $350 wireless system come with a key pad that is compleatly inapropriate for marine use. It will short out every time it rains. I think you should redesign it and give free replacements for all thats bought them. I know know one that has not had this problem.

#3: Now I can tell you the rest of the system is GREAT! best d***** thing I ever bought for my boat.
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Old 09-21-2006, 05:09 PM   #8
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

RB,

First, I pose a question to you: What other marine electronics, in that price range, do you have that come with a longer warranty? I know Lowrance and Garmin only offer one year on all their stuff, and they do not have parts in the bilge or exposed to the elements.

We do offer an extended warranty (for 2 years) for the nominal cost of $199. We are toying with a couple of ideas in regards to warranty... we'll have to see what happens next year...

You can pop apart the keyfaub and silicone the edges of it to help seal it. The FCC will not allow us, as a manufacturer, to do it because they say it may change the transmit characteristics. We looked at a couple of completely waterproof versions, and let me say that it would be more than $350! I fish over here on the coast all fall in an open boat. It rains man, real rain, a lot. I didn't have problems with mine getting too wet. It was on a retractable key chain attached to my pants, so it did spend some time undercover, but not a lot.

If you haven't seen my reply in the main forum yet, I also mentioned to give me a call and we'll work something out for you.

Rob
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:57 PM   #9
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it normal for a little of the biosoy fluid to leak out from where the lines leave the pump. I was told that it is when I bought it four years ago. It has leaked a little each time I use the unit .
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Just a quick note...I absolutely love my TR-1. I have had it for less than on year and am very happy with it.

I have a couple of questions:

1)I would like to take my kicker off at times. It it feasible to install quick disconnect fittings on the hydrolic lines or will this cause possible air in the line?

2) I noticed s amall amount of hydrolic fluid leaking from the unit. How do I check to see if the fluid level is correct?

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:15 PM   #11
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Is it normal for a little of the biosoy fluid to leak out from where the lines leave the pump. I was told that it is when I bought it four years ago. It has leaked a little each time I use the unit .
There is really no reason that you should have to deal with that. We had a plastic line with quick lock fittings a few years ago when they first came out. Those fittings had a tendancy to fail. We quit using them. We use a rubber hose with barb fittings and hose clamps. That should not leak. If you want a hose kit just give me a call tomorrow and we'll write it up. It's only $48 for everything you need.

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Old 09-21-2006, 07:19 PM   #12
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it possible to move my TR1 Gold between two boats? I think I woudl just buy a second compas ball and maybe a second outboard ram assembly. Have others done this?
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:19 PM   #13
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:

1)I would like to take my kicker off at times. It it feasible to install quick disconnect fittings on the hydrolic lines or will this cause possible air in the line?

2) I noticed s amall amount of hydrolic fluid leaking from the unit. How do I check to see if the fluid level is correct?
Dan, you can absolutely use quick disconnects. We offer two different types for through hull and in-line both. They have shut off valves in them to block off the fluid when disconnected.

Your fluid level should be at about halfway up the tank (not the fill tube) or just above.

Rob
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Is it possible to move my TR1 Gold between two boats? I think I woudl just buy a second compas ball and maybe a second outboard ram assembly. Have others done this?
It is possible with quick disconnects for the hydraulics. You'd need to have the throttle and bracket kit for both motors, and, yes, the compass ball to make it even near worth doing it, but it could be done. Depending on the setup of the boat you could do it in about 1/2 - 1 hour. Maybe less once you got it down if you weren't running wires. Sounds like more work than I am into though :grin:

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Old 09-22-2006, 06:36 AM   #15
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

One of the buttons on my wired remote started sticking last trip out. Can I replace just the sticky switch or will i need to purchase the circuit PCB. I would rather not have to cut all the wire tye's and restring everything.

Part two of my question is I have a 2001 honda 15 hp 4 stroke. The biggest issue is I keep breaking hose clamps that hold the bracket to the motor. And yes it is properly adjusted, and installed. I fish in very windy conditions and the hose clamps just dont hold up. I now have a industrial clamp on their and it will hold up for a few trips. I would like something more permanent. Their nothing like being out in the middle of a body of water with 3 footers and having to lay over the back of my boat and repair it. Hoping that Nothing gets dropped to the bottom of the ocean.

Other than the last problem I love my TR-1 gold. One of the earlier posters asked about interfacing it with a gps chart plotter. I have my integrated with am raymarine c-80 using sea talk and it works great. I just tell the unit to go to a way point hit the appropriate buttons and off it goes.
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
One of the buttons on my wired remote started sticking last trip out. Can I replace just the sticky switch or will i need to purchase the circuit PCB. I would rather not have to cut all the wire tye's and restring everything.

Part two of my question is I have a 2001 honda 15 hp 4 stroke. The biggest issue is I keep breaking hose clamps that hold the bracket to the motor.
You will have to send the handheld in to get work like that done, sorry.

On the bracket, I have used a U-bolt before, instead of a hose clamp. Just has to be the right size. You could also asjust your motor stops so that the motor hits the stops before the cylinder jams up against the bracket.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:06 AM   #17
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hello,
First off let me say that I have really enjoyed my TR-1 this past year (purchased at sportsman show 2005). However, the other day I had a problem with the response of the unit. It was very slow to respond, and unable to maintain a proper heading. I check all the connection, nothing around compass ball, fluid level, no kinks in any hoses, etc. I made sure that all the settings were the factory settings.
What could you suggest for my next move?
I really appreciate this thread, very helpful.
Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Hello,
the other day I had a problem with the response of the unit. It was very slow to respond, and unable to maintain a proper heading. I check all the connection, nothing around compass ball, fluid level, no kinks in any hoses, etc. I made sure that all the settings were the factory settings.
What could you suggest for my next move?
Rob
It sounds like you have covered all the bases... It could be a low voltage scenario or it could be a funky bypass problem. Be sure you have a good voltage to the unit (a fully charged 12Vdc battery should be up around 13.5Vdc) and try it. If that is not it then give me a call and we can t/s further (too much to type).

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:35 AM   #19
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Any tips for dealing with rattling carrier brackets on Honda BF8 outboards? I just hate all that noise.

Here's a thread I posted in April:

THREAD

Appears that my fix lasted only four months. The rattle's gotten noisy again. I need to work on it tonite before trolling T-Bay the next three days. Thanks
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:56 AM   #20
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Any tips for dealing with rattling carrier brackets on Honda BF8 outboards?
Use a high stregth loc-Tite (242) the all thread socket cap scres and cinch it down real tight.

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Old 09-22-2006, 10:34 AM   #21
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hi, Thanks for the quick response. How much am I looking at to get the handheld fixed. Flat rate or is it by the hour.

As far as adjusting the stops that has allready been tried. I picked up a couple of ubolts last week and plan on trying to install one before I go out next time.



[/quote] You will have to send the handheld in to get work like that done, sorry.

On the bracket, I have used a U-bolt before, instead of a hose clamp. Just has to be the right size. You could also asjust your motor stops so that the motor hits the stops before the cylinder jams up against the bracket.

Rob

[/quote]
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:07 AM   #22
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Quote:
How much am I looking at to get the handheld fixed. Flat rate or is it by the hour.
It is usually between $40-80 to have most any handheld repair done. It is by the hour (usually only 1/2 to 1 hour), but the parts themselves are so cheap they are basically free.
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:34 AM   #23
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have had continuing problems with the autopilot wandering to the starboard side anytime I have waves or wind that pushes me in that direction. Holds port very well and works great in calm conditions. My guess is that I have some magnetic interference and would appreciate some more detailed guidance on how far the compass ball needs to be located away from ferritic sources.
Currently, the ball is located on the port forward bulkhead of a 21' boat, right in front of the passenger. It's 22" away from an air ride seat. But I suspect my problem is my VHF antenna mount, which is only 4" away. I'll move that this weekend.
After I move that and recalibrate the compass, do I need to save those settings or are they retained? I am not planning on going through the entire calibration sequence on rudder and counter rudder gains if I can help it.
One final question. Since the compass ball has been next to the antenna mount for over a month, has that had a permanent effect or will moving the source work?
Thanks
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Old 09-22-2006, 12:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
I have had continuing problems with the autopilot wandering to the starboard side anytime I have waves or wind that pushes me in that direction. Holds port very well and works great in calm conditions. My guess is that I have some magnetic interference and would appreciate some more detailed guidance on how far the compass ball needs to be located away from ferritic sources.
Currently, the ball is located on the port forward bulkhead of a 21' boat, right in front of the passenger. It's 22" away from an air ride seat. But I suspect my problem is my VHF antenna mount, which is only 4" away. I'll move that this weekend.
After I move that and recalibrate the compass, do I need to save those settings or are they retained? I am not planning on going through the entire calibration sequence on rudder and counter rudder gains if I can help it.
One final question. Since the compass ball has been next to the antenna mount for over a month, has that had a permanent effect or will moving the source work?
Thanks
Hey Chris, I have a question first: Does it just slightly get off course to the right, or does it turn hard right (say, like, 90 degrees off)? Is the same problem you had before I sent you a compass?

The proximity to the VHF antenna is a problem. I do not think that it should cause a lasting effect once it's moved. It does retain the settings, so there is presumably no tuning needed (unless you drastically change the vertical mounting height) but you will need to re-calibrate it to let it get used to it's new home

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Old 09-22-2006, 12:29 PM   #25
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I've been very happy with my TR-1 Gold. I used GaryK's method of fixing the rattling bracket and so far so good but I expect it might loosen again. I have had zero problems with my system. The only complaint I have is that the Gladiator is too expensive to justify puting on my main. I'd love to have it though.
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:31 PM   #26
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Rob,
It will gradually get off course to starboard, faster the bigger the swell/wind/wave, especially when quartering into it. The heading deviation keeps growing with time and needs constant correction. However, it also seems to reach a point where it will turn hard right or just seem to lose its mind and either not react or overreact. Erratic.
Since you sent me the new ball, there was quite an improvement. Before, regardless of conditions, it would wander continuously to starboard and would not work at all unless I sat there and kept holding the left arrow button. Now, it seems to work under moderate/calm conditions but won't handle ocean trolling at all or strong winds.
I also assume that the mass of the metal object is directly proportional to the effect on the compass, correct? I had this installed for me and then later tuned, and the location of the ball was not questioned relative to the seat or VHF antenna, so it took me a while to question this.
Thanks again for the help.
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Hey Chris, I have a question first: Does it just slightly get off course to the right, or does it turn hard right
Like to see your thoughts on slight wandering to starboard.

I have the same issue. About every minute or so you have to give it a few clicks to port to correct the drift to starboard.
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:35 PM   #28
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Quote:
I've been very happy with my TR-1 Gold. I used GaryK's method of fixing the rattling bracket and so far so good but I expect it might loosen again. I have had zero problems with my system. The only complaint I have is that the Gladiator is too expensive to justify puting on my main. I'd love to have it though.
Give me a call, I think we can work something out.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:40 PM   #29
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Quote:

I have the same issue. About every minute or so you have to give it a few clicks to port to correct the drift to starboard.
Now Gary, I know yours can't a mountng location problem unless you moved the compass or added something since I installed the pilot.

It could be a fluxgate problem or some other component failure in the compass (even something so small as one resistor). Unless you can't deal with it send it to me after you get done fishing for a while. I'll have it checked out and/or upgraded if necessary.

Chris, on the other hand, I have to believe is a location problem, especially since I sent him a new compass not long ago (not even same version) and the symptoms remain.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:52 PM   #30
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I love my TR1. I have had it on since this spring with no issues at all. If you can afford it do yourself the favor and get it. Great product and great customer service will keep this company around for many years to come.

I also thank TR1 for giving a special to ifishers.
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Old 09-22-2006, 04:07 PM   #31
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I love my TR-1 but I have had a hard time getting the training that came with the install price. I calibrated it over the phone but I'm not sure it works right.
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:19 PM   #32
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Quote:
I love my TR-1 but I have had a hard time getting the training that came with the install price. I calibrated it over the phone but I'm not sure it works right.
huh?
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Old 09-22-2006, 08:25 PM   #33
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

ok, I thought of a question. Since the tension bolt on the kicker has to be loose I have to bungee the motor to one side or the other when it's in the stored position other wise it can bounce. Anyone else find this necessary?
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Old 09-23-2006, 01:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
ok, I thought of a question. Since the tension bolt on the kicker has to be loose I have to bungee the motor to one side or the other when it's in the stored position other wise it can bounce. Anyone else find this necessary?
It depends on the type of motor. Some you have to do just that. Others have a tensioner on the shaft, which you can loosen and usually still use the lock bar.

Rob
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Old 09-24-2006, 03:56 PM   #35
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have been considering an autopilot for the Cobia. Although the TR-1 Gladiator features are exactly what I would want in an autopilot, I must admit that I am hesitant. The pattern I've seen from TR-1 is that if a manufacturer's defect is discovered, it's up to the customer to pay for the upgrades to mitigate the problem. Case in point: fourteen's leaky fittings. If this was a known defect - to the point that the design was changed by the manufacturer, I can't understand why the customer should pay for the fix. OK, I guess if it's outside of the 1 year warranty, but as stated earlier, how much is a unit really used in a year? And then what happens if within that year, or shortly thereafter, another design change is made and the original parts are no longer avaiable? Then it's another boat buck to upgrade the system to accomodate the new and improved components.

Again, the features touted about the TR-1 are highly desirable, but I have to admit that I'm nervous dropping that kind of coin when the units seem to be constantly under development.

Now a question - just out of curiosity, how much is a replacement wireless remote?

Just my

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Old 09-25-2006, 09:36 AM   #36
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I'll get back to this as soon as I can. So far it appears my Monday is going to be just that, a Monday in the traditional sense of the word.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:27 AM   #37
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have twin 150 verados with the smart craft guages. Also i have a 9.9 merc kicker. I would like to have the auto pilot operate either the kicker or the twins. Is that possible and what is the cost for this setup.
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Old 09-25-2006, 05:30 PM   #38
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have an installation question. For mounting the gyro ball, is it true that you want the ball as low to the waterline as you can get it? I have four places I can easily mount it: under the gunwale in front of the windshield; in a floor locker in front of the windshield; under the passenger cockpit on a shelf; or under deck in an unused battery box.

All four locations should be pretty free of magnetic interference. The under deck location is fairly shallow though, and the antenna wire would hang down touching the floor of the compartment.
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:43 AM   #39
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
I have twin 150 verados with the smart craft guages. Also i have a 9.9 merc kicker. I would like to have the auto pilot operate either the kicker or the twins. Is that possible and what is the cost for this setup.
Our Verado autopilot can do just that. All you have to do is link the 9.9 to the Verado via a bar setup. Call for Ifish special pricing.

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Old 09-26-2006, 06:52 AM   #40
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
I have an installation question. For mounting the gyro ball, is it true that you want the ball as low to the waterline as you can get it? I have four places I can easily mount it: under the gunwale in front of the windshield; in a floor locker in front of the windshield; under the passenger cockpit on a shelf; or under deck in an unused battery box.

All four locations should be pretty free of magnetic interference. The under deck location is fairly shallow though, and the antenna wire would hang down touching the floor of the compartment.
It is true to say that the lower you get the ball the less reactive it will be to a rocking boat, but you can tune that out anyway, so it is not a requirement. It is, however, a requirement to be ABOVE the waterline. The "antenna" wire is actually the GPS connection wires, so there is no interference problems with touching anything. If you go up in front of the windshield be sure to look out for windshield wiper motors, speakers, fire extinguishers, a heater unit and anchor chain. Stay about 2 feet or more away from all those things.

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Old 09-26-2006, 07:28 AM   #41
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Quote:
I have been considering an autopilot for the Cobia. Although the TR-1 Gladiator features are exactly what I would want in an autopilot, I must admit that I am hesitant. The pattern I've seen from TR-1 is that if a manufacturer's defect is discovered, it's up to the customer to pay for the upgrades to mitigate the problem. Case in point: fourteen's leaky fittings. If this was a known defect - to the point that the design was changed by the manufacturer, I can't understand why the customer should pay for the fix. OK, I guess if it's outside of the 1 year warranty, but as stated earlier, how much is a unit really used in a year? And then what happens if within that year, or shortly thereafter, another design change is made and the original parts are no longer avaiable? Then it's another boat buck to upgrade the system to accomodate the new and improved components.

Again, the features touted about the TR-1 are highly desirable, but I have to admit that I'm nervous dropping that kind of coin when the units seem to be constantly under development.

Now a question - just out of curiosity, how much is a replacement wireless remote?

Just my

CrF
CrF,

The upgrade that you refer to (hoses/fittings) is a change that was made four (4) years ago. We sent out a lot of kits free back then. There has not been any other significant change besides the cylinder going all metal. That also was over four (4) years ago, and we warranteed a lot of cylinders outside of the customer warranty. This a pattern of taking care of customers with the problems at the time. If we were notified that a customer had problems, then it was taken care of, and for a quite a while after we sold the kits at cost to customers who were out of warranty. But sooner or later you have to draw the line. This is better service than you would receive on your $40K truck, especially if you were not still in warranty.

The only design change that was made that has had any impact on whether parts were available or not was the trasition from the TR-1/2000 to the Gold model autopilot. And as of now, six (6) full years later we still have parts available. It is true to say that I do not always have a part available, but we have a trade in program and I have typically managed to keep everyone up and running. This is far better service than you get out your computer at home even only a year or two later.

We did have a kid in here for about a year that said things that were not true (about ability to fix things) just to try to sell another pilot. We found that he did not fit in with our company values and commitments. That used car salesman is no longer with our company.

I have to admit that I do not agree with your POV. This company strives for excellence in customer support and satisfaction. We have a 24/7 tech line (that has pulled me out of bed at very wee hours more than a few times). As I stated before we covered updates on out of warranty pilots, and I oftentimes have to explain to the powers that be why I covered a repair that was out of warranty (because it was the right thing to do in that situation).

As one can see by the other thread in the main forum, not everyone always ends up happy. Some people you can never make happy no matter how hard you try. But I promise you that we make every effort to see every situation through to a mutaully beneficial end result.

I hope that I have helped you gain understanding of our morals and practices. If you would like to talk with me more about this please feel free to call me anytime.

And by the way, if you decide to throw your wirelss overboard it would cost you $85 to replace one of the controllers, but don't worry, we gave you two to start

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Old 09-26-2006, 10:16 AM   #42
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

My TR-1 gold is on a 17ft Customweld. In choppy conditions, the outboard almost continually swivels back and fourth, keeping the boat heading on course. Is it normal and OK for the outboard to continually swing during moderately choppy weather?
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:36 AM   #43
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Quote:
My TR-1 gold is on a 17ft Customweld. In choppy conditions, the outboard almost continually swivels back and fourth, keeping the boat heading on course. Is it normal and OK for the outboard to continually swing during moderately choppy weather?
Actually, yes, the outboard should move fairly often. The motor swinging back and forth in choppy water is the reaction of the pilot to the rocking of the boat (see above post on compass mounting). All you have to do is go to Code 1 (the Sea State Filter) and turn down the sensitivity.

Here's the steps:
click the setup button and let it go
click the 1,2,3 button once (#1 should light up)
click the down arrow until it lights up
click the setup button again and let it go

This will dampen the reaction for the rest of the time the pilot is turned on.

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Old 09-26-2006, 05:34 PM   #44
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I really like my Tr-1 for all trolling applications.

I would like to run it in reverse while on anchor with limited current before the swing and the flow begins. How do I run it in reverse and keep everything straight?

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Old 09-26-2006, 05:53 PM   #45
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
I really like my Tr-1 for all trolling applications.

I would like to run it in reverse while on anchor with limited current before the swing and the flow begins. How do I run it in reverse and keep everything straight?

Jet~~~
I do this often and it works great.

From the manual:

<font color="blue">
Reverse: The Autopilot will attempt to perform any of it’s steering functions when the boat is backing in reverse gear.

To engage the system in reverse;
1) Start from Standby
2) Press and hold the GPS (Rev) button
3) Press and release the Auto/STBY
4) Release the GPS (Rev) button. The reverse LED will stay lit until you go to Standby mode.
</font>
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:37 PM   #46
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

That'd be another great addition to laminated 'cheat sheet' cards.

Or, just put up the tips on the Nautimatic site as formatted .pdfs (index card size w/ BIG print) and let the users download &amp; do the laminating.
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:09 AM   #47
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

garyk,

Thier website is completey messed up. At least on every computer I use their pages don't show up right. Now they've "re-designed" it and I could barely find the manuals. Here's a link to all their manuals. I printed out the quick guide in 1/4 size and had office depot laminate it with thick plastic.

http://www.nautamatic.com/pages/Manuals.cfm
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:22 AM   #48
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
I really like my Tr-1 for all trolling applications.

I would like to run it in reverse while on anchor with limited current before the swing and the flow begins. How do I run it in reverse and keep everything straight?

Jet~~~
Assuming this is a Gold pilot all you have to do is:

from standby mode
press and hold the GPS track button (also REV)
continue to hold GPS while putting into auto mode

you will see the AUTO and REV LEDs come on. In reverse mode turn around and face your stern and the arrow keys will swing the stern the direction you press.

Remember: do not put the pilot in reverse with the motor in a forward gear or vice versa, it will put the boat into a circle.

Rob
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:56 AM   #49
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
put up the tips on the Nautimatic site as formatted .pdfs (index card size w/ BIG print) and let the users download &amp; do the laminating.
Gary, that is a great idea I cannot believe they are not there, but I have asked Debbie to post them so you can do just that.

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Old 09-27-2006, 08:00 AM   #50
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Their website is completey messed up. At least on every computer I use their pages don't show up right.
This has something to do with screen settings. I have Debbie looking into it. I'll re-post after I get a better answer.

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Old 09-27-2006, 11:42 AM   #51
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Yes it is a gold unit. Thanks for the tip. I actually do not have the owners manual so a download will be helpful.

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Old 09-27-2006, 11:55 AM   #52
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Default Re: TR-1 Installation Tips

Here is the first installment of the TR-1 Installation and Usage Tips/Techniques!

INSTALL:
Using a thread locker on all bolts/screws used during installation will help assure that things never accidentally come apart due to vibration (such as a Loc-Tite medium strength (222) or high strength (242), or equivalent)

When choosing a location for the deckmount switch do not place it in a vertical position with the switch exposed to the elements. This is what we call a “bird feeder” that will collect water. This will also cause the assembly to retain any dirt particles or salt, which will cause the switch to stick and eventually fail. Mount it horizontal and/or in a fairly dry location if possible (I know, I know ).

Don’t worry about whether or not the hoses are installed to steer in the correct direction; you can reverse them electronically, if necessary, after the installation is complete.

The only recommended alternative for the BioSoy Hydraulic Fluid is Dextron III ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). For use as an emergency substitute, it is not preferable to use 100% ATF in the hydraulic system. We use the BioSoy because it's environmental friendly.

A non-conductive grease applied to the throttle circuit board will extend its life expectancy (such as Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound, or equivalent).

How to enter setup codes:
This is actually much easier than it sounds... All you do is press setup and let it go, then click the button that has the number you want lit on it until the light is light. I.E. to enter code 1 you would just: click setup once, click the 1,2,3 button once. You will see the number 1 light come on, the code is entered! Now you can adjust it with the up or down arrow buttons. See your table of setup codes for descriptions and settings ranges.

VERY basic tuning:
The factory defaults (code 2 = 22 / code 3 = 37) for will run most any jetboat style hull under 23’ or open sled under 26’ and most fiberglass boats under 20’. If you fish in faster water you may want to “run it hot” at 24/34.
With most fiberglass boats over 20’ you will want to start at 30/30. Go up on code 2 until the boat tracks straight, then go down on code 3 the same number of clicks.
If the pilot runs great in calm water, but is hyper-reactive in any type of rougher water or when a boat wake goes by, use the SEA STATE FILTER. Enter code 1 and click the down arrow until it lights up to dampen the reaction to the rocking of the boat.

That's all for now, be on the lookout for the next installment

Rob
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Old 09-30-2006, 06:23 AM   #53
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I bought a used older unit. It was for a Honda and I want to put it on a '04 Merc 9.9 BF. I guess I need a speed control and the bracket for the cylinder. I hope the parts are available!
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Old 09-30-2006, 06:25 AM   #54
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
I bought a used older unit. It was for a Honda and I want to put it on a '04 Merc 9.9 BF. I guess I need a speed control and the bracket for the cylinder. I hope the parts are available!
Does older unit mean older than a Gold model, or an old Gold model?
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Old 09-30-2006, 07:01 AM   #55
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

It has a separate power and hyd. unit with a separate switch unit for forward and reverse. Not sure on model. I would like to do the physical install and then pay you to configure it for me. If the parts are readily available maybe we can co-ordinate w/ fourteen on his work?
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Old 09-30-2006, 07:12 AM   #56
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Quote:
It has a separate power and hyd. unit with a separate switch unit for forward and reverse. Not sure on model. I would like to do the physical install and then pay you to configure it for me. If the parts are readily available maybe we can co-ordinate w/ fourteen on his work?
That means it is previous generation to the Gold model. We can definitely get you what you need for the steering. I might have a throttle for that Merc (not many of those). I guess you know I had to cancel my trip to Portland. It will be at least a couple weeks before I get back up there (I already have to work instead of fish!). Give me a call and we can send you out the parts you need so you do not have to wait for me and then I would be happy to meet up with you the next time I go up, or you come down.

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Old 09-30-2006, 07:44 AM   #57
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Thanks Rob, you are awesome!
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:18 AM   #58
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Old 10-02-2006, 08:30 PM   #59
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I just installed my TR1. Works great, but...

While running in GPS track mode, the thing occasonally beeps twice, and then starts to track right. The display still has the LED's for the Auto are shown, as is the LED for the GPS Track.

I'm thinking the reason for this problem is that the GPS transmit frequency on the NEMA 0183 is outside the tolerances of the TR1. It is thinking the GPS has discontinued transmitting, but I'm not sure. The GPS seems to get busy at times and doesn't update the buss at a consistent time. If this is the case, how do I extend the time allowed for valid GPS input on the TR1?

Thanks
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Old 10-03-2006, 07:20 AM   #60
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
While running in GPS track mode, the thing occasonally beeps twice, and then starts to track right. The display still has the LED's for the Auto are shown, as is the LED for the GPS Track.
Is this a Gladiator pilot? I doubt that the problem is due to the GPS update rate. If it is a Gladiator: a double beep is an indication that the pump is drawing too much current. There are a number of things that it could be, but I will need more information. This one will be good for a phone call (too much typing).

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