weed killer

[choppers]

I am wondering if anyone out in cyberspace knows of a very good weed killing chemical. I recently seperated my shoulder and am out six + weeks depending if we scope it or not. Well I might as well spray something to make the job easier when I'm healed or if I can get someone off the clasified to reply to my add. I have this ivy thing creeping on my fence that seems to spread like crazy and your regular weeds around my house that seems to come from my neighbors side but are now trying to take hold on my side of fence. thx any input would be greatly appreciated. chops.

[jvp]

if you are looking for some kids to do the work good luck they don't do anything like we did as kids. I've offered 8 hr to clear weeds etc. they don't like working or already have more money than they know what to do with it all.

As for weed killer I got something from home depot 1 yr vegetation free. works ok and came in a brown plastic 1 gal bottle.

[Chrome Bumper]

Shiny leaves, rough bark? Probably english ivy, crossbow will work with roundup a wimpy second.

Lots of selective broadleaf formulations at every store for annual and biennials, like weed b gone etc to kill weeds in grass. I use trimec in the grass every 3-4 years, great product made for golf courses.

You can google up the product labels and read the proper uses, note they vary state to state. Also MSDS labels are there too for safety info before you buy.


If you cut or bark it low many products can be painted on the wound full strength so you don't need to spray.

Its not poison ivy is it? If it is you will need to be careful and carefully double bag it and put in trash. Might put a note on it too so the garbage guy knows to look out. Wash or throw out everything poison ivy touches.

If it is a small area the retail garden center will have what you need. If a large area, go to the farm supply places and pull out the big guns.

The county extension agents are great resources, as are the master gardeners. Chip Bubl is in St Helens, he likes the minimal chemical approach.

[Tagster]

I combine Spectracide and Roundup in the same pump sprayer. Nothing lives.

Even killed the nasty horsetail and it's rhizomes with one shot.

[choppers]

Hi guys, thx for tips. I'll go to home depot on my lunch to read up on the brown bottle but if that doesn't work i'll go with tagsters cocktail.

Tagster, has anything come back since spraying and how long has it been since you sprayed?

thx again, chops

[Tagster]

Haven't had the horsetail come back (2 years ago).

I get the usual garden weeds, clover, etc. My neighbors aren't extremely diligent about weed control, so, unless I spray their yard, too, I get their weeds. After I spray, it takes a couple of months for them to come back, however, I do not coat the ground with the stuff...I just spray the weed.

I use the cocktail, because one kills from roots up and the other from the top down. I get to see results quicker that way.

[Fish_N_Russ]

what type of Spectracide do you use? That is a brand name

[Tagster]

Triple Strike Concentrate
Round Up weed and grass killer super concentrate

I actually think it would be cheaper to buy Crossbow, but this has always worked well for me.

[FastAction]

2-4 D and some diesel??

[garyk]

I don't recomend this for English Ivy but in places where you're worried about overspray harming the plants you want, or if you're concerned about pets, kids or runoff, the propane torch blasters are FUN use.

Like a mini flame thrower, just pull the trigger. The torch is about $20 at Harbor Freight. Just add propane and it's FLAME ON!

(careful in these dry conditions, keep a hose ready)

[Chrome Bumper]

$20 at Harbor Freight!?

I gotta put that on the shopping list. Since outdoor burning is not allowed the fire department might discourage their use right now.

2 oz roundup(36%?) + 2 oz 2,4D or crossbow per gallon of spray. Crossbow is deadlier. Check up to date product labels regarding use.

2,4D and diesel or crossbow and diesel would probably get after english ivy pretty good, but just the fumes will wipeout nearby plants such as grapes.

[choppers]

wow, that's a lot of info. thx guys. I'm spending $50 to have it cleared and then I'm spraying like a mad man.

[Chrome Bumper]

Good call, mechanically reducing them will weaken them and make them easier to kill.

[Tilla]

Was talking to an ex spray guy about this stuff Tues. Right now in certain plants, Blackberries and Jimpson weed specifically, their systems are busy flowing from the roots to the flowers and fruit, poisons that work from the top down, Roundup + Crossbow, don't do as well. Wait at least a month or more for those.
Garlon, which is a "cocktail" works in both directions. Thats what the pros and state/feds use. May and Sept are better months.

[nailyard]

I have used a number of different herbicides at different times of the year. If you go to a farm store you can by Glyphosate (generic Roundup) at about 1/2 the cost.

Amitrol works great on horsetail rush but you need to watch out with it around edible plants.

One of my favorites for backberries and other woody plants is Picloram (Tordon, Grazon). If you can find Tordon mixed with 24-D or Grazon P+D you are gauranteed a good kill. If you catch blackberries early in the season Picloram will wilt them in 3-4 hours.

Best bet is to go to the local farm stores and ask someone who is registered. They can tell you exactly what works for each applicaton. Start early in the spring when young plants are most suseptable.

there's some really good advise on this thread.

[yankemnbankem]

If you have lots like I do...... farm grade roundup and farm grade crossbow mixed kills everything dead dead dead. Ive been spraying a swatch of blackberries and then wacking them down with my manly stihl brush ripper, spraying another swath and repeating. Crossbow is for broad leaf and Round up is for everthing else. If it is going to rain I put in some Surflan.

[Chrome Bumper]

If you are in a suburban yard better be careful, some herbicides drift easily, travel through the soil and many require an applicators license to posses and use.

Read the labels prior to purchase, which can be studied on line.

Last I checked the tank mix of round up and crossbow is legal, when used foallowing the label for Oregon(or whatever state you are in), but if the drift kills your econazi neighbor's prize roses you may find yourself in a fued. You might even be in a fued if she kills them and sees you spraying.

THe gas Co next door gets good results from a tank mix of Tordon and roundup, applied by a licensed professional. Scotch broom, ivy, blackberrys, grass, horsetail, you name it. Dead baby, dead.

Farm stores are good if you have a lot to kill, otherwise you may wind up have all kinds of hazardous materials setting around in you garage. The unit price for the active ingredients might be 5-10 times cheaper when buying in bulk at the farm chem supply places compared to conviently packaged consumer goods.

Mowing and spraying what spouts back is a good way to reduce the amounts of chemicals you will need to apply. Buying only what you need eliminates the unneccesary production of these chemicals, as well as the dangers of storage and trouble of disposal of the left overs.
-----------------------------------
Death to weeds

[choppers]

where do you find a farm store for a city dweller?

[STGRule]

Hijack Alert:

Please, please remember that the main reason most of us are here is that we fish and hunt. Everything that has been mentioned here will kill fish. The way it gets from the weed to the river is runoff and over-application. Use what you need to, but make sure your conscious tweaks every time you do.

[sinker]

I've always had the belief that roundup will kill anything if properly mixed. LOL

[Fish_N_Russ]

Hey STG,
know what you speak of before posting please ........Roundup (Glyphosate) is pretty much non-toxic for aquatic life because it chemially works only on compounds found in plant life. Also Glyphosate binds to soil particles so there is little runoff and it gets broken down by bacteria.
Here is some info for you

Extoxnet-Glyphosate Info

EPA-Glyphosate

[STGRule]

I was told by a licensed herbicide applicator that things don't always do what they are supposed to in real life. Depending on soil conditions and weather it can take a lot longer for it to break down than it does in a lab.
I shouldn't have said that all will kill fish but none of it belongs in our water. Most of it will bind and break down, but not all of it before it can get washed into water by runoff and it can still get there by careless application.
And "pretty much non-toxic" and "little runoff" isn't the same as completely non-toxic and no runoff. I use herbicides, but I am very, very careful about when and how. And I would like everybody to be careful too.

[choppers]

What do you guys think about Kills All?

[Chrome Bumper]

Federal law requires that you follow the label's directions. Round-up et al have more ingredients than glyphosate.

Who makes 'kills all'?

[choppers]

I don't know, the farm store closes to me is all they carry.

[Chrome Bumper]

killzall maybe?

They make ready to use and concentrate glyphosate (round-up clone). Ready the label and Material data safety sheets before buyingweb page
I don't see english ivy listed as a plant it controls. Crossbow isn't listed for english ivy either.

Are the vine leaves 2-5 inches across, shiny, woody brown bark, kinda maple leaf shaped, as is english ivy. Crossbow won't kill grass in normal concentrations BTW.

It would be best to indentify your target and use an herbicide listed for the application.

Googled this up on english ivy:
Chemical
Systemic herbicides like triclopyr (e.g., Garlon® 3A and Garlon® 4) and glyphosate (e.g., Accord®, Glypro®, Rodeo®) are absorbed into plant tissues and carried to the roots, killing the entire plant within about a week. The evergreen nature of English ivy means that it continues to grow through the winter months although at a reduced rate. Herbicide applications can be made any time of year as long as temperatures are above 55 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit for several days and rain is not expected for at least 24 hours. Fall and winter applications will avoid or minimize impacts to native plants and animals. Repeated treatments are likely to be needed. Follow-up monitoring should be conducted to ensure effective control. Herbicidal contact with desirable plants should always be avoided. In areas where spring wildflowers or other native plants are interspersed, application of herbicides should be conducted prior to their emergence, or delayed until they have died back. If native grasses are intermingled with the ivy, triclopyr should be used because it is selective for broad-leaved plants and will not harm grasses.

Glyphosate products referred to in this fact sheet are sold under a variety of brand names (Accord®, Rodeo®, Roundup Pro® Concentrate) and in three concentrations (41.0, 50.2 and 53.8% active ingredient). Other glyphosate products sold at home improvement stores may be too dilute to obtain effective control. Triclopyr comes in two forms – triclopyr amine (e.g., Garlon® 3A, Brush-B-Gone®, Brush Killer®) and triclopyr ester (e.g., Garlon® 4, Pathfinder®, and Vinex®). Because Garlon® 3A is a water-soluble salt that can cause severe eye damage, it is imperative that you wear protective goggles to protect yourself from splashes. Garlon® 4 is soluble in oil or water, is highly volatile and can be extremely toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates. It should not be used in or near water sources or wetlands and should only be applied under cool, calm conditions.

Basal bark application
Use a string trimmer or hand saw to remove some of the foliage in a band a few feet from the ground at comfortable height. To the exposed stems, apply a 20% solution of triclopyr ester (Garlon® 4) (2.5 quarts per 3-gallon mix) in commercially available basal oil with a penetrant (check with herbicide distributor) to vine stems. As much as possible, avoid application of herbicide to the bark of the host tree. This can be done year-round although efficacy may vary seasonally; temperatures should be above 50 degrees F for several days.

Cut stem application
Cut each vine stem close to the ground or at a comfortable height and cut again a little higher up. Remove cut pieces to make a vine-free band around the tree trunk. The upper portions of cut vines will eventually die, rot and fall off the host tree. To the freshly cut surfaces of the living rooted stems apply a 25% solution of triclopyr amine (Garlon® 3A) or glyphosate (e.g., Accord®) mixed in water. Homeowners can apply products like Brush-B-Gone®, Brush Killer® and Roundup Pro® Concentrate undiluted to cut stems. Using a paint brush or a plastic spray bottle, apply herbicide to the cut surface especially the perimeter inside the bark which is the living portion of plant.

Foliar application
From summer to fall, apply 2 to 5% solution (8 to 20 oz. per 3-gallon mix) of riclopyr ester (Garlon® 4) mixed in water with a non-ionic surfactant to the leaves. Thoroughly wet the foliage but not to the point of runoff. Some control may be achieved with glyphosate as a 2 to 4-percent solution (8 to 16 oz. per 3-gallon mix) mixed in water with a 0.5 to 1.0 %non-ionic surfactant, but repeat applications are likely to be necessary. During foliar applications some of the herbicide is also absorbed through the stem for additional (basal bark) effect. Because English ivy is evergreen, the ideal time to treat it is during mild spells in winter when most native plants are dormant, to avoid affecting non-target species. However, winter treatments may be less effective than summer through fall applications.

Manual and Mechanical
Vines growing as groundcover can be pulled up by hand, with some difficulty, and left on-site or bagged and disposed of as trash. Always wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your skin from poison ivy and barbed or spined plants. For climbing vines, first cut the vines near the ground at a comfortable height to kill upper portions and relieve the tree canopy. A large screw driver or forked garden tool can be used to pry and snap the vines away from the tree trunks. Vines can be cut using a hand axe or pruning saw for larger vines or a pruning snips for smaller stems. Try to minimize damage to the bark of the host tree. Rooted portions will remain alive and should be pulled, repeatedly cut to the ground or treated with herbicide. Because cutting will likely result in vigorous regrowth, vigilance is required to ensure long term control.

Mulching
Mulching may be an effective choice for smaller infestations when herbicides are not appropriate. Cover the entire infestation with several inches of mulch. This may include wood chips, grass clippings, hay or similar degradable plant material. Shredded or chipped wood may be the best option since hay and grass may potentially carry weed seeds. Covering the area with cardboard may improve the effectiveness and longevity of this method. The mulch should stay in place for at least two growing seasons and may need to be augmented several times. Mulching can also be done following herbicide treatment.

USE PESTICIDES WISELY: ALWAYS READ THE ENTIRE PESTICIDE LABEL CAREFULLY, FOLLOW ALL MIXING AND APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS AND WEAR ALL RECOMMENDED PERSONAL PROTECTIVE GEAR AND CLOTHING. CONTACT YOUR STATE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE FOR ANY ADDITIONAL PESTICIDE USE REQUIREMENTS, RESTRICTIONS OR RECOMMENDATIONS.

NOTICE: MENTION OF PESTICIDE PRODUCTS ON THIS WEB SITE DOES NOT CONSTITUTE ENDORSEMENT OF ANY MATERIAL.



One last thing, looks like the killzall is a 10% concentrate, other make concentrates from 2%-70%. The webpage for ivy foliar application is asking for a 2-4% mix concentration, or 25% for cut stem application. Man that's stout.

[choppers]

CB thanks for searching, I'll be going into the store with a small sample of the darn plant. It's not english ivy. I'm along the line of horsetail but will take a small sample in first.