Floats for jigs and other questions

[rookie]

I am new to this site and have been looking for ways to fish without bait. Float and jig fishing is now beggining to part of fishing time. My question is "which is best, and slidind float or fixed float? I have read alot in STS from Nick A. that a thill turbo master 3 fixed float is they way to go. But I have noticed alot of guys using the Westcoast sliding floats with a 1/4 oz jig and 1/4oz weight under a sliding 1/3oz float with a bobber stop? Also alot has been written on spinning reel vs. a level wind, any thoughts? And lastly alot has been written about braided vs. mono, I have Fireline on a spinning reel and I am not very happy. Fireline has bad memory and when trying to free spool by opening the bail the line kinks up and is not user friendly. Any tips

[Tanner]

Rookie,
The last two winters, I have been almost exclusively fishing (and catching) steelhead on bobber and jigs. I tried it with a levelwind and drift rod at first and immediately went out and bought a 9 1/2 foot spinning rod and spinning reel. The drift rod now gets used for the little bit of drift fishing that I still do. For line I use 6 - 10 lb mono depending on water conditions. I keep two spare reel spools with me at all times filled with the different sizes of line. Low clear water use the 6 lb, med flow with a little color use the 8 lb, and higher levels with color use the 10lb. Works for Me. (Last winter I boated 14 steelhead in 3 trips).
As far as bobbers are concerned, for winter fish I fish a slider. I can't remember the brand name, but I use the grey styrofome tube looking ones that are painted either red or chartruse on the top. They also make the "Dink" style bobber, they are usually right next to each other at Fishermans Marine.
I have read a lot of articles on jig fishing in STS magazine and a couple others, and these guys are telling everyone to use an 1/8 or 1/16th oz jig and do silly stuff like putting split shot every 6 inches or so between your bobber and jig. BULL PUCKEY. Low and medium flow I use a 1/4 ounce jig, heavy flow I will use a 3/8 oz or even 1/2 oz jig. Who wants to spend three hours rigging up a bobber and jig fishing setup? Not me. I don't do it the way the "pros" in the magazines tell ya. (Hmmmmm..... Maybe if I did, those three trips would have yielded me 30 steelhead - Oh well, 14 was good enough for me.
Another point, if you are fishing maribou jigs do not, I repeat, do not get a scent like smelly jelly or some other kind of oil on the feathers. If you do, you might as well throw your jig away. A good way to use scent while jig fishing is attach a couple small pieces of yarn to your line right above the jig head and apply scent to the yarn. If you fish yarn and bead jigs like the ones Beau Mac makes, you can put the scent right on the yarn.
Just remember, keep it simple and you will spend less time rigging and more time fishing, therefore, increasing your chances at a hook up.

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There's No Nookie Like Chinookie

[THE REEL HEY_YALL]

Next question and trying not to sound like a tard. What is considered light, medium, and heavy flow? This should get interesting.

[First Bite]

rookie
My first option when fishing for Steelhead is using jigs and a float. My personal preference is to use corks as the float. I thread the line through the cork and tie directly to the jig. That way there is only one knot and you don't have to worry about getting the correct amount of weight to make the float stand up straight.
I use a spinning rod & reel for fishing jigs. In the winter I use 10-12 lb Maxima Ultragreen regardless of water flow. Try putting mucilin on your line to help when you need to mend your line.
In the winter I almost always use 1/4oz jigs. You want your jig to have enough weight to get down fast and stay directly under your float.
There are several methods of fishing jigs so try a few and see what works for you.
Mark

Rookie, I fish jigs with jig expert Mark (stlhdr) and am beginning to hold mine own right alongside with the sliding floats. I agree with Tanner in opposing the preference of Mark and other published experts in that I don't mind 2 extra knots at a small black barrell swivel, using about a 30" leader. I like the round cork floats as Mark uses and also the torpedo shaped thill floats with simulated wood stealth. The advantages I have observed with the sliding floats and movable bobber stops is much easier and more accurate casting, the jig descends directly below the flaot immediately, don't get line twist, and you can easily add a small piece of hollow pencil lead crimped on the knot tag at the swivel to fish heavier or deeper flows more effectively. I can also quickly change over to an egg cluster (or shrimp tail) baithook leader. Another quick tip is you can use a small chunk of prawntail meat on the jighook instead of sandshrimp and have a slimmer profile presentation in clearer water. I just don't see any significant advantage of a fixed float and one knot; but see all of the ones for the sliding float - but I'm open to learn that advantage. - RT

[This message has been edited by RT (edited 12-06-2000).]

[Trout,myster]

Rookie- I'm with Tanner on the rods. I use both, but when I started playing with the jigs, went right out and snagged up an 8 1/2 foot spinning rod. I use a Berkley Select and a Cardinal 4 reel with usually 10 pound test mono. The headaches you're experiencing with Fireline are typical unless you use a spinning reel with a fairly good sized spool (about the size of a Datsun hubcap should work!). Try some Cabela's Si braid if you want something that works halfway decent and it's cheaper.

For bobbers, I agree with RT on the swivel. The tag end is great for extra weight and if the leader is lighter, may save your bobber if you hang. I use the cheapest bobbers I can find as I seem to have a habit of leaving them on the opposite bank or floating down the creek. If I'm fishing in water 6 feet or so, I'll use a fixed bobber. You can do this with a toothpick jammed into the slider. Deeper than that and I just go with a sliding bobber to avoid the casting mess.

The articles in ST&S work, but you have to match what you're doing to the water conditions. So what's high/medium/low flow? Low is what we've had all fall. Wilson at less than 3 feet and you can see bottom in 20 foot holes. High flow is when you try to reach your favorite spot and the current tears your felt soled boots away from the rocks and you land on your "southern end". Medium is bewteen the two.

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Troutmyster

[DanS]

I'll tell you this much, I've seen Nick Amato in action with the Turbomaster and 1/8 oz Beau-Mac jigs, and the steelhead were being taken to the woodshed. In all but the highest winter flows, an 1/8th oz jig will work fine. In heavy flows, especially heavy, cold flows, a 1/4 oz jig would be a better bet. In the summer, you'd better have some 1/16th oz jigs, or you'll be missing some chances. My jig box has a few 1/16th oz jigs, a load of 1/8th oz jigs, and a few 1/4 oz jigs. I've never felt the need to use much else. A 3/8 or 1/2 oz jig would sink most of the floats I use.

Float and jig fishing requires the same adjustments you'd make when drift fishing. If you have a Turbomaster and 1/8th oz jig, you don't want to be fishing fast moving, choppy water. They're more suited to slower, calmer water like you find in tailouts. The dink floats are better suited to rougher water or heavier baits/jigs. But they lack the sensitivity you get with the Thill floats. You can fish the Thill floats in faster, heavier water if you're fishing them from a boat, but it's tough from the bank.

As far as the diagrams you see in STS with the splitshots are spread out, all I can say is "Ummmm, OK. Why?" I've never seen the need. One note, I watched some guys at the Salmon river this weekend using jigs under dink floats, but they weren't using enough lead. Their floats would float flat across the water. You want your float standing straight up and down, so adjust your weight accordingly.

Fish on......

[Wog]

For jig fishing I prefer to use the sliding plastic bubble bobbers. I keep the bobber in place by pegging a match stick between the line and the bobber. In low light conditions it is easy to spot the match stick on top of the water. They are easy to slide up and down your line for quick depth adjustments. If you need extra casting distance you can fill them with a little water for some extra added weight. Even when fishing 1/16 oz. jigs, the bobber floats up right.
In my opinion, there are many types of bobbers on the market that will work fine. You just have to find what works for you and the types of conditions you are fishing. I have used these bobbers for years and they work great for me. Good luck in your search

[WaterDog]

OK I'll throw my limited knowledge at this one.

I have fished this jig method twice. The first time with a dink float and 2 split shot down the leader w/ a 1/4oz jig. No luck. Second time out (last Sun) switched to a larger thill float, 2 split shots below the float and a 1/4 oz jig. 1 - 10# steelie. I am totally clueless so I started from the STS advice. It does work. Next I'll try the beau mac weighted floats.

I dont like spinning gear and dont and will not own any so I've been using a 8 1/2 foot casting rod and 5500c so I need some weight to cast any distance.

For winter fish is it really necessary to go so light? Summer I can understand, but not winter. Am I way off here or just lucky?

[meyersbilly]

I really need to get serious about this float and jig stuff. Can anyone recommend a good jig supplier? I will tie up my own fancy colors and patterns, but I have a really tough time getting quality hooks and heads in BC. I find most hooks far too light for the sizes I want and the salmon jigs are way to big (1/0-4/0 hooks, locally manufactured). I have boxes of catalogue ordered heads that are the right weight, but the hooks would barely hold a stickleback, never-mind a steelhead.

I'd sure like to see what the experts are using.

[Jigman]

Try Rainbow Jigs. They have heavy wire jigheads in 1/16th, 1/8th, 1/4 and 3/8 designed for Steelhead and Salmon fishing. They can be contacted at rainbowjigs@aol.com. The heads are popular for guys who tie their own or for fishing the pink worm.

[First Bite]

meyersbilly, I get my jig heads from rainbowjigs@aol.com. They have very strong hooks that will hold Steelhead & Salmon. Send them an e-mail and ask for their catalog.

One advantage about using a fixed float is the ability to fish water that is less then 2' deep. I routinely catch fish in 18" of water or less. That is hard to do if you are running a 30" leader. I also might add that when I fish for Salmon with floats, I use a sliding bobber because I might be fishing 12' deep. I rarely fish jigs deeper then 6' so I feel a fixed bobber works better.
When I fish for summers, I'll drop down to 6lb test or even 4lb and that is when one knot verses three becomes more important.
Mark

[smilesforu]

In lower winter flows I will throw a bare jig head with cluster eggs. I hold the cluster eggs up tight to the jig head with a small dental braces rubberband. The same can be done with shrimp tails.(edit) For bait free zones try a piece of a rubber worm on a jig or use a gooey bob on a leader.
Tight Lines

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Marty M
Steelheader.net

[This message has been edited by smilesforu (edited 12-07-2000).]

Billy, in addition to Rainbow jigs also try Silent Approach jigs (lrandes@earthlink.com ). In addition to marabou jigs they make some big ones with rabbit fur that may work very well for big B.C. steelies. Also, call BeauMac for their catalog of jigs. They are all from Auburn, Wash. but aren't connected business wise. So, is Auburn becoming the jig capital of the world or what? Down our way, Jigbug ("Crusty" John, e-mail icon) makes excellant jigs and flies. I've heard that Jim Bradbury jigs were bought out by Uncle Walt's jigs, but I can't confirm that. - RT

[Osprey]

I perfer to use a fixed for 90% of my float fishing,you can extend the drift, and hold right in front of a fish,can't do that with a slider .I also perfer the thil turbo master for most of my fishing,but I will cut down a dink,some times they are too long and it takes too much weight to stand them up.
Check out Rainbow jigs,their the best I've seen so far,several syles to chose from and all the good colors too......Os

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Row quietly and fish a Cataraft !!---
Release all Wild Fish --<'))>><

[Tanner]

To Wog,
I really don't think it is necessary to go light for winter fish unless. I just prefer fishing light gear, I feel it is more of a challenge. Besides I am fishing a "noodle rod". It is rated for 4 - 10 lb line. I have caught a 16lb native chromer on that rod on 6 lb line. Those hnoodle rods absorb a lot of shock, so you can fish light lines.


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There's No Nookie Like Chinookie

[Tanner]

Sorry,
I meant to say unless the water is low and clear.
Tanner

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There's No Nookie Like Chinookie

[Wog]

Tanner,
I don't quite understand your post? You stated that you don't think it necessary to go light for winter fish unless the water conditions merit it, and then say you prefer to go light? My post refers to plastic bubble bobbers. These devices come in many sizes to fit whatever stream or water condition you are fishing. I have used them in just about every situation and they have worked well for me.

[Jigman]

RT, Rainbow Jigs is one of the only jig manufacturers that also supplies plain jigheads for anglers who care to tie their own. To the best of my knowledge the other jig companies you mention only sell the finished product.