Jig Presentation

From what I've learned, and also been augmented by Ifisher Mark Anderson, on jig presentation:

The depth to fish jigs depends on water clarity and temperature. In temp extremes the fish will not move as far and it's better to get jigs, or bait for that matter, nearer to them by fishing near bottom. In 42 to 57 degrees water you can start fishing them shallower and the fish will often move up off bottom to grab them, especially steelhead (I would fish jigs within a couple ft. of the bottom for best chinook results). Jigs are at their best when there is fairly good water visability. Thus many guys do well just fishing them about 3 1/2' deep in 4' to 7' depths. If that doesn't draw strikes then move your float so as to fish the jigs closer to bottom. Also vary the colors if you know there are fish present. Jigs work well by themselves, but I recommend putting a little scent on the head, not the marabou feathers. Where bait is allowed, adding about 1" of live pinched off sandshrimp tail threaded on the hook adds productiveness. Pink & white color combo is good to start with and vary colors from there. Also, the newer chenile bodied versions are excellant producers! Use 1/4 oz. in most situations. I think that 3' leader is longer than necessary. Use about 25" with a little water color and about 30" in clear water. You can add a little lead at the swivel to get the jig down better in swifter or deeper currents. Fish them in a variety of water. Floatdrifting them right thru typical holding water, as you would driftfishing corkies, works well. But surely cast and work them on the seams (slower water edges just out of the main current) and in the tailouts (often need to shallow the float for that). After first trying straight free float presentations, I like to let them swing and sometimes twitch them thru holding water and tailouts, like I do swinging wet steelhead flies. Also, move your float right next to the swivel and fish the jig with only a leader length below the float thru the upper riffles and behind broken water boulder holds. And as in tidewater floatfishing bait, always watch that float! Most often it's best to wait for the fish to take the bobber (float) down before setting the hook. They usually take it pretty good but sometimes will be on a lite bite. If you are getting some bobbing of your float, knowing it's not the bottom and without bobber downs, then try setting on some of these nibbles. Most jig fishermen like to use long rods of 9' to 10.5' to help mend the line; picking up the line and throwing it upstream as in flyfishing so the current doesn't linedrag the jig downstream too quickly. Use superbraids or put muscilan floatant on mono mainlines to keep them on top for better line control. Try painting eyes on some of your jigheads. Another suggestion is to move around to several different holes and river sections if you don't get hookups trying all of the above variations within a reasonable amount of time. There certainly are situations that persistence will pay off on either lethargic fish or when lots of fish are on the move between holes. But the odds are better to work a lot of holes and river sections effectively. - RT

[Jigman]

RT, well said! I prefer not to fish a leader and tie the jig directly to the mainline....the least amount of knots the better. Tipping the jig with bait is usually the way to go but I've had times when the fish prefer a smaller sleaker package and will hit better without bait. As for float rods I prefer at least 10'6". My summer rod is 13 feet and my winter rod is 12 feet....a long rod allows you to keep line off the water, mend easier and sets a mean hook when the float goes under.

[GBSkunk]

What kind of float do you like? Fixed or sliding? I've been looking at some of those wood ones but they're kind of pricey. Are you using a float that is heavy enough to help with your cast, (like those plastic yellow ones) or a lightweight "dink" type?

I fished with gear for 15 years for steelhead before switching to flyfishing only. Now I'm getting back into gear fishing again and it's been a blast! I'm digging out all my old okie drifters and rainbow birdies. Re-tying leaders, cutting up lead. When I quit gear fishing nobody used rags or worms. Slinkys were just getting popular and so were jigs. This site has been very helpful on getting up to speed.

[Jigman]

I prefer a fixed float. I use the Thill balsa floats.........can't stand the dink floats myself, you have to use too much weight with them to get them to stand up.

[Fuzzybutt & Angel]

cork floats are the best floats for the money, way cheaper than thills...and wont break or smooosh in your fanny pack, never crack, or go aury in any way, they have good weight to cast, and all you have to paint is the top, the underside is a neutral brown color, and yes, fixed is the only way to go as well, no need for special little pieces of plastic crap that go with thill bobbers that you can loose, or they can become very brittle in cold weather, the less fooling around with tackle the more fishing time you have, isnt that why we are on the river?? to fish and not mess with a bunch of other things wasting valuable fishing time?

[tadpolly]

Hey folks back on one of my favorites.After a bunch of time on the water, and the world telling me so, I set the jig 18 inches above bottom.Proven thats the place to be to best cover tons of water.The lighter jigheads swim better in softer water so I try them when conditions allow. Berkleys braided line floats and that makes it easier to keep the jig at the same speed as the current on the bottom.The water moves faster on top then down a few feet and this is the hardest part to master.So I start with a upstream cast and keep the line off the water.As the rig floats by then I mend when it needs it.Usually about 30 degrees downstream.I usually only mend once per drift.Twice on long runs or if I lose line into the water and it screws up the presentation.I also apply just enough pressure to keep the float tip pointed upstream.This helps to keep it at the same current speed as the bottom.Didn't figure all this out on my own, but watched a guy on the D this summer pound fish on water I just fished. Thats where I learned most of the mend and tilt thing.Spent the last 3 months proving how good he was.For what its worth the pink beenie weenis works great in fast clear water(pocket fishing anyone?).Another killer is to nix the float and hop the jig back to you smallmouth style.Don't beleive it?Good, more for me. Haha.Thill floats are the best so far under most conditions.I use tubing to hold the line on the stem so it's quick to adjust.Ya a little more cash but compared to drift fishing you just don't lose much stuff so it's easier to swallow.Hey Jigman could you describe your summer rod?Thanks and have fun.Mark

[Jigman]

13 foot rated 6-10 pound line, G.Loomis GL3 blank made into a spinning rod.........sweet stick!

[First Bite]

Jigman I bet that 13 footer is sweet. I'm using a 9 foot GL3 and it works great for these smaller rivers. I started out using cork floats and still use them today. I tie directly to the jig and adjust the cork to the depth I want to fish. I mend the line when I need to but mainly just let the cork drift as naturally as possible.
Mark

[Jigman]

It is a fun rod! The 12 footer I use in the winter is also a GL3 blank made into a spinning rod and rated for 8-17 pound line. When you set the hook with that the fish know it..........one pop and the hook is through their head!