Debate about oars

RW · 10-07-2000, 09:18 PM

OK, I need to replace my oars. I have been rowing with Sawyer 9' woods. I tried a pair of composite today and wasn't to fond of them. What are the pro's and con's of both??? Thanks for your help. RW

superfly · 10-07-2000, 10:05 PM

Cattaract,Cattaract,Cattaract, the only oars to you should use. Peace Superfly

sea lice · 10-07-2000, 10:15 PM

RW...I like wood oars because the ends float...less likely to bury themselves in a boulder when you are free drifting. I have never used comp oars so I have no comparison...

Gone Fishin · 10-08-2000, 08:45 AM

I have to agree with Superfly on this one (his hooks aren't bad either). CATARACT!
Sea Lice is correct that it's nice to have oars that float, it's been my experience that my cataract oars are very bouyant.

Snipe-On!

RW · 10-08-2000, 01:17 PM

OK, so Cataract are THE best, why???? Do they flex like wood? Do they float as well? They last longer than wood? I need good reasons to change from wood to composite.

Hey, btw GF, I got my limit last night.

RW

Jigman · 10-08-2000, 02:10 PM

Cataracts are the way to go. They are indestructable and light. They will last forever.....they are spendy though, but worth it. I'm not sure if they float or not?

DanS · 10-08-2000, 04:14 PM

Yeah, the composite oars do float. And they are much stronger than wood oars. The Sawyer wood oars and hybrid oars are great oars, but i think the nod goes to the catarcts. You can change blades on the composite oars, too, so you can go from the thin tips to the magnum blades in a few seconds.

The composite oars should last forever, but they aren't cheap, look to spend about 300 bucks for a set. I'm not sure they are far superior to wood oars, but I do think they are worth the money and perform better than any other oars I've used, including Sawyers.

Fish on........

superfly · 10-08-2000, 10:49 PM

I will see if we can get the cattaracts up on forestbay this week and I think they could be bought for under 300.00 a pair.
Thanks Superfly

QwikSticks · 10-09-2000, 06:21 AM

I use the Sawyer MX-G oars and I am very happy with them. They are composite oars, counterbalanced, and the blades are wrapped with some sort of kevlar type material that can really take a beating. Sawyer also makes a matching 3-piece Oar that can be fit under the front seat for the more mellow rivers. When the 3 piece oar is assembled it feels just as strong as the 1 piece oar.

fishbait · 10-09-2000, 03:39 PM

Just bought a set of 9.5 cataracts a few weeks ago. Have only used them twice, but I feel that I made a good decision. Looked at the Sawyer with the composit shaft and wood blade, spoke to two people that have them and neither one would purchase them again. I will know allot more after the fall season is over, but for now, I am glad I stepped up.

Steve

chuck 'n' duck · 10-09-2000, 04:47 PM

I too purchased a set of 9'5" Cataracts not too long ago. They are definately a very strong oar. However, I have noticed a couple of drawbacks when compared with my old wooden oars. The first being that these sonsabitches ain't all that light. I'm a pretty big guy, but all day on these oars isn't a walk in the park. I would recommend using some method of custom counterbalancing (i.e. aerobic ankle weights wrapped on the oar). Second, look into getting a different blade than come stock with the Cataracts. I have heard they make a different one, and will be looking into it. The stock blades catch something fierce in heavy water. Make sure not to dig too deep in the boily stuff or you will be off your seat, wrestling with the river to get your blade back out.

Positives: These oars can take a beating. I have been drifting low water for the past month or so, and the blades are constantly banging rocks and scraping bottom. This is something I would not want to do with my wood oars. Also, the composite flexes very well. On the Clackacraft website, they have a guy supported by a composite shaft. He is standing on the middle of the shaft to demonstrate its strength.

Overall, I have been favorably impressed.

Oh ya, in my investigations into new oars, I talked to an employee of Andy and Bax. Stick with me on this one, I don't know if I can explain it well enough but here it goes...Wood oars are graded from 1 thru 5. Quality of wood decreases as the number gets higher. As the diameter of trees being logged has decreased over the years (not much large old growth logged anymore), it is harder to find large, quality log sections to make continuous one piece wood oars. For this reason, the quality 1 oars of yesteryear are no longer produced. Instead, yesteryear's quality 5 is today's quality 1. In other words, the quality of wooden oars has decreased. They are no longer as strong as they were. This is why there is a big push in composite oars.

This is what I was told, but it made sense to me.

Hope this helps.

Chuck 'n' Duck

[This message has been edited by chuck 'n' duck (edited 10-09-2000).]

Jigman · 10-09-2000, 05:53 PM

Cataract now makes a counterbalance for their oars.

Bait O' Eggs · 10-09-2000, 08:05 PM

I too am in desperate need of a pair of oars. The drift boat is dry docked with no propulsion/steering, and is crying to me for a day on the water.

I have looked at the Sawyer, Carlyle and Cataract oars. That pretty much seems to be what is on the market that I can find. With the Carlyle at about $200 and the Cataracts at about $300 the Carlyle look attractive price wise. The Cataracts seem to be the oar of choice with a price tag to match. I havent seen any comments pro or con for the Carlyle. I heard they can be bent, but are not that hard to re-straighten.

Anybody have any comments about the Carlyle oars? Does the plastic casing on the Aluminum tube hold up? Do they bend to the point of destruction? Do the tips sink in the water to the point of requiring excessive force to get them up?

Jigman · 10-09-2000, 08:57 PM

I have some oars that are aluminum shafts with pvc over the top and have used them since 1982 and they work great. I just recently replaced them with Cataracts.

Gizmo Man · 10-10-2000, 08:36 AM

This is another one of those choices everyone with a db makes. I currently own all three types of oars. I keep switching back and forth looking for the one that feels right. With me, its the well balanced, light wt wood oar. I have made lead ingets to fit in the al. oars to balance them. It takes about 8 # of lead in each oar to reach a slightly negative balance. This make the oar heavy when lifting and moving about. It is also handle heavy and care must be taken when letting someone grab it as they do not expect the wt in the handle.

I have performed surgery on the Cataract oars to counterbalance these. It takes about 6-7# of lead shot to balance these. Also the same problem with the lead.

I always fear one of these being knocked out of the boat as they sink with the wt.

My best advise is to get the pair that feel good to you based on how you want to hold them. Ends almost touching when rowing or 18" apart. This will also dictate what length you need. You also need to look at the width of the boat at the oar locks. Some boats are wider that others requiring an extra 6" or so.

As far as durability, and flexibility I have not found one to be that much more flexible resulting in any reduction in fatigue or what ever else they are suppose to do. For the most part the reduction in fatigue is a factor of how well balanced they are, whether they float and how much time you have to fool with them during the day keeping you from fishing. As for durability, if you treat them right they will all last. Leave them in the weather, drive over them or use them as a hammmer and good luck.

If you want to try the oars, let me know and we will take them for a test on your boat. I made this offer to another Ifish member.

Oars are like fishing rods, if they don't feel good to you then don't worry about what others are saying or buying. If there was only 1 good oar, then the others would disappear.

My .03 cents worth.

Giz...

[This message has been edited by Gizmo Man (edited 10-10-2000).]

Osprey · 10-10-2000, 02:46 PM

My vote goes for the Carlyle,I've used mine for 4 plus years with not a problem 1,
I use the outfiters blades in the 6 1/2 they are a bit thicker and heavier than the standard ones ,for the price they are great

------------------
Row quietly and fish a Cataraft !!-------<'))>><

chromer · 10-10-2000, 07:45 PM

RW:

Are you sure you've got the right oar on the right side and left oar on the left? jk

The best oar I've ever owned were hand made spruce. I believe the name was Cape Kiwanda. Light as a feather, flexed like a dream and surprisingly durable. Unfortunately, oars like those are a thing of the past.

I've had very good luck with Sawyers. I recently bought a pair of Cataracts and like them. They don't flex as well as the Sawyers and the tips sink (enough snickering Marty!)but for a composite I like them. I've also used the Sawyer with a composite shat and all wood blade and like them. i tried the same sahfts with the wood and fiberglass tips and thought they were the worst I have ever pulled.

I think its a matter of what you get used to. I don't like the Oar Rights. They prevent rolling your wrists, which is where a lot of power is generated.

Just my 2 cents.

nsffp

Gizmo Man · 10-10-2000, 09:00 PM

Chromer: If oar-rites are set up correctly they are great. I have seen them set where they are always in the oar lock while rowing. If this is done, you cannot roll the oar.

I have cut my oar-rites down to a length of 1 5/8" or just past the "-" in the word oar-rite in the plastic. I rounded the edges with a file. Once I determine where I hold the oars when I row, I placed the collar of the oar-rite about 2-3" above this mark(toward the handle). This way when I am rowing the oar-rite is free from the oar lock. When I anchor or drop the oars the oar-rites slide into the oar lock and keep the oars from rolling while you are anchored. When I row,I sometimes rotate the oar 180 degrees, so the end of the oar-rite is inverted and just touches the oar lock. This way I know the edge of the oar rite won't catch in the lock preventing me from rolling the oar if I have to for extra punch.

Before you tighten the collar of the oar-rite, make sure the edge of the oar is in the uprite postion to act as a rudder while anchored (at approx. the 5 and 7 o'clock position). If you do this each oar will be at an angle when extended straight out from the boat (at the 3 and 9 o'clock position). By doing this you will have a left and right oar, so be sure to mark them (no joke).

Give it a try and let me know what you think.

Giz...

[This message has been edited by Gizmo Man (edited 10-10-2000).]

Steelheader69 · 10-10-2000, 09:01 PM

Well, I've used a few different types of oars in my adventures in drftboats/catarafts. I have to go with catarafts. My only problem is, I'm not sure how the new cataracts feel. I have two sets of 8ft'rs with 1 ft extenders for them when I want a 9 ft oar. I've never had a problem with balance or fatigue with them. But my oars are almost 10 years old. I'm not sure if they make the big cataract oars in black, do they? Plus they'll float as long as you don't break them (which I've seen pins snap before oars). Carlisles are good oars too. I've seen alot of them bent, BUT only during serious whitewatering. Never in everyday driftboating. I've been tempted to buy a set of 10ft carlisles for my 16ft cataraft when I'm floating big water. I don't have the extra cash for the cataracts. I guess when it gets down to it, you need to go out and try all the different types of oars.

------------------
You haven't lived til you've rowed a cataraft. Friends don't let friends run Outcasts.

RW · 10-11-2000, 11:10 PM

Thank you all for the advise, I am really glad to have this resource. (thanks Jen). I am going to try the Cataract oars again, I wasn't impressed the first time. If that doesn't work I am going to go out and get another pair of Sawyer's, it is what I learned to row on.

Chromer, thanks for the info on left and right oars, now I know why I have been rowing in circles!!!!! jk