How Would You Mount a Kicker

Chromaflage · 04-11-2006, 03:55 AM

On this? Would you cut the platform and attache a bracket to the stearn or mount directly to the stearn? What kind of bracket woul you use in either case for a 15 HP 4 stroke kicker?

Thanks,

CrF

San Anita · 04-11-2006, 05:02 AM

My 24 ft Striper has a solid mount with electric tilt. My 26 ft has a mount that attaches flat to the back of the hull and locks down in operating posisition and when released up is set for towing, then the electric tilt gets the prop totally out of the water while motoring on the main.I do not think I would go with a solid again.

Bill

tracker · 04-11-2006, 05:52 AM

You may have to "modify" that swim step!

Metal Manipulator · 04-11-2006, 06:35 AM

That platform looks to be only 12" wide. You could build an alluminum bracket that would bolt up against the transom and down on the swim deck extending out far enough to clear the transom. You would also need to find out the optimum height to mount the motor so you can determine if there will be enough material to support the motor. Electric trim and remote stearing would also be the way to go on this type of installation.

CATCH AND EAT · 04-11-2006, 07:02 AM

A 15 hp 4 stroke is a very heavy motor. Do your research carefully before cutting or drilling holes. A good custom bracket should do the trick.

Bait O' Eggs · 04-11-2006, 07:04 AM

With that shelf in the way, have you thought about a kicker bracket that mounted on the side of the boat?

Easy access to motor, minimal boat modifications

nokaoiken · 04-12-2006, 05:02 PM

My boat came with a 2/3 swim platform. Where the other 1/3 swim platform would have been, I have a kicker motor mounted to transom on kicker bracket. I also have power tilt/trim. When traveling, I raise motor on kicker bracket then tilt motor out of water.
I would:
1) Cut swim platform to accomidate clearance of kicker and bracket.
2) Perform a professional job of sealing gelcoat where cut was made.
3) Install kicker bracket using CRES nuts and bolts(ensure bracket will accomidate weight of kicker).
4) Install kicker to bracket using CRES nuts and bolts.
5)Take boat to weldor to have ALL nuts tacked on to prevent easy removal. This will not prevent theft but will slow them down. I had one stolen that wasn't welded.

5 Salt · 04-12-2006, 05:17 PM

Quote:

You may have to "modify" that swim step!

If budget allows - New Swim Step with built in Kicker Bracket

Something stout - built from Alumimun..painted alum if you prefer. You will have no problem with getting height correct so the kicker gets good reach into water and is clear of water when underway. Plus you get a swim step large enough to mount a cooler if desired.

Also consider smaller kicker - Yami 8hp Hi-Trust pushes my 6500lb 25ft Grady at 5.4mph at full trottle

tomictime · 04-12-2006, 06:39 PM

T-8

cut the step to 2/3

buy HD bracket, Islands Marine Center on Lopez Is in WA sells a nice one, mylimit did bunch of research, do a search..

get remote steering
got any $ left???

Nalu · 04-12-2006, 07:12 PM

I ripped the swim deck off my boat. In some ways I wish I hadn't. Modifying the swim deck to 2/3 would be nice. Mounting a bracket to the transom that allows the kicker to extend past the swimdeck would be optimal if you can manage the tie bar to the I/O and understand that you won't be able to manuever by use of tiller. (power time/tilt mandatory)

If you already have the 15hp then good deal, if not, then perhaps consider a lower hp but hi-thrist kicker.

Chromaflage · 04-12-2006, 07:30 PM

Thanks all!

Nalu, what do you mean by "Mounting a bracket to the transom that allows the kicker to extend past the swimdeck would be optimal " That swim step is 22" wide - are you saying use a bracket to get the kicker out past 22" from the stearn? Not sure I understand.

thanks,

CrF

Something Good · 04-12-2006, 07:40 PM

If that swim deck is made to carry the weight of a person climbing on from the water wouldn't you think you could mount a kicker and bracket right to the swim step. No muss no fuss.

Nalu · 04-12-2006, 08:11 PM

Chromaflage: Yes, I mean having a bracket made, or purchased that is the same depth as the swimdeck. A good aluminum fabricator can make a nice clean bracket that bolts to the transom for strength, and extends to the edge of the swimdeck. I had a bracket made, and it is really nice.

Bigliar- You would think, but if you talk to the boat manufactures they say no. Could it hold it? Probably would just fine. The in-water stuff is probably ok as far as thrust goes, but the bouncing around from trailering and the like may be pretty tough on the actual swimstep glass. You would also need to see how securely the swimstep is mounted, and backplated through the transom. Most aren't done that well.

The other nice thing about keeping the swimstep is that if you have an issue like wrapping line in your kicker, you have a platform on both port and starboard of the motor for access.

alantani · 04-12-2006, 08:15 PM

this is how i have the little boat rigged. the bracket was a custom job from my local grady white dealer.

the engine is a yamaha T8 with power tilt. i have an ez steer connection but i have to run the throttle from the back. there was no room for a second set of controllers at the helm. i'm very happy with the arrangement.

Nalu · 04-12-2006, 08:30 PM

alantani- If you haven't done so already, you might take a look at Trollmaster for your kicker throttle control from the helm. Won't take it out of gear, but it will allow you to adjust throttle from idle to full output remotely.

By the way, that is a GREAT LOOKING BOAT! Really nice lines, and looks like a great fishing vessel. What kind of boat is that?

tomictime · 04-12-2006, 08:41 PM

Nalu: pretty sure it's an Arima with Grady decals on the side for a stealthy presentation..

Alan: I would get some 5200 around that bracket..WATER like rust never sleeps...

Jim

Hanapa'a Time · 04-12-2006, 08:54 PM

That is the same kicker bracket that northriver1 has on his Parker. Was installed by the dealer up around Seattle.

Alan, you showed us the little boat, now show us its new bigger brother

:grin:

BTW thanks again for the drag washers and all the great tutorials

Waiting for a Tekota drag upgrade

Kurt

Nalu · 04-12-2006, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Nalu: pretty sure it's an Arima with Grady decals on the side for a stealthy presentation..

WHAT!??? I don't see any GW stickers in those pictures. I had no idea! I mean, sure, I was immedietly drawn to the beautiful lines, the classic form, and the overall air of saltiness, but without an identifying manufacturer sticker how can you tell?

Chromaflage · 04-12-2006, 09:58 PM

OK, so what if I hacked off 1/3 of the swim step and mounted a Garelick type bracket directly to the transom? Do you think that would work?

The Overfishin Condition · 04-12-2006, 10:14 PM

I like that fixed bracket pictured above. My .02, on a boat that you plan to trailer at all, I'd go fixed at the optimum height where tilting it pulls it out of the water. Looks like you could get the appropriate angle to your hull with that setup as well. I just put a garelick bracket on our boat, and although one of the bolts has worn out the hole in one place, and some of the bounce is attributed to that, overall it just has a bit too much movement for my taste.

Onokai · 04-12-2006, 10:55 PM

If you think that is a nice ride check out Alans new rod holder here
http://offshoreanglers.com/discuss/f...=3692&PN=1
Now thats a sweet ride and I think that makes for two Gradys in Alans yard.
That is a super sweet t-8 bracket Alan I'm in the market for just this bracket for my new T-8 could you pm me the details Thanks.Mark

Nalu · 04-13-2006, 05:15 AM

I have a fixed mount bracket that was fabricated, then a Garelick that is mounted to that bracket. The heavy duty Garelick brackets designed for 4 strokes are plenty strong enough to hold a 15hp, including when you trailer.

The problem you may find in mounting a Garelick directly to your transom is the heighth of your transom and interference when you try to tilt your motor forward. This was my original intent, but in the up position of the Garelick I was unable to tilt my motor up.

I'd hate to cut that swimdeck. If you had a bracket that had the mount angle the same as your wim deck, and bolted through the transom but also bolted through the swim deck at the back it would basically be an offshore "kicker" bracket.

alantani · 04-13-2006, 06:43 AM

leave the swim step on. fab a rectangular mount that looks like the "grady drive" on the 22 foot grady whites. it would mount under the swim step and extend just past, then have a "lip" that sticks up to the appropriate height to hold the kicker. power tilt, either built in like the yamaha T8, or aftermarket, is a must for a fixed bracket design.

here's a picture of a "grady drive" (not my boat).

boater · 04-13-2006, 08:05 AM

i would take the ladder off and the little handle off on and make an aluminum box type bracket that would bolt on using the holes that are already there and maybe adding a few on the boat it self , have it bolt to the boat and the swimstep.

My Limit · 04-13-2006, 05:54 PM

I just did this on my Sea Sport 22 with a 3/4 swim platform. In your case you will need to cut away 1/4 of your swim platform on the starboard side.

I used a fixed custom aluminum bracket from Boondock's Boats a Sea Sport dealer.

I attached a T-8 power trim tilt motor and the set up is sweet!

Cutting the swim platform should be easy unless you have to remove it. In that case you at least get to make sure the bolts are sealed with 5200 properly since you never know what a dealer used.

I do not reccommend trying to extend a bracket over the swim step and/or mount a motor on the swim step. That is a lot of weight to be mounted far away from the transom bolts. Also it would be quite a reach to get to the motor for controls etc.

In conclusion, fixed bracket mounted propertly with a T8 is the way to go.

Read up on mounting techniques to ensure you get the job done right. When using 3M 5200 second chances don't come easy.

Peace,

ML

My Limit · 04-13-2006, 06:05 PM

I'm not an engineer but I would not mount that motor further back than necessary for the motor to clear the transom when tilting it up.

The further you move the motor back the more stress you put on the transom bolts. Seems like basic teeter totter physics.

What's more important keeping a full swim platform or taking care of your transom?

Most boats with offshore brackets extend back only to provide minimal clearance for the motor to be raised. Anything more would work against you.

Just my 2 cents! I tend to be very particular about my projects though. I also use West System epoxy on all my bolt and through holes to provide a waterproof interior to all my holes prior to running the bolt through and adding 3m 5200. I also drill oversized holes for transducer mounts. Then I fill them with West System epoxy and a filler like silica to the proper constistancy for the job. Then you can drill out the center of the hole with a smaller bit that does not go as deep for your pilot hole. That way when you mount your hardware and the screws twist under pressure slightly alowing water into your transom the water will not get inside.

Many people think they can just drill a hole add some 5200 and they are done. Wrong. Screws almost always move and create a leak.

Maybe I'm over doing things, but I've read a lot on the subject and really want to protect my investment.

There is tons of reading on how to properly mount anything to your boat.

Peace,

ML

Nalu · 04-13-2006, 06:39 PM

My Grady Drive bracket extends further than 22" off the transom and doesn't seem to have a problem with the weight of (2) 200hp Yamahas, and even my lardness standing on it.

Gill brackets seem pretty solid.

I haven't seen too many Armstrong brackets fall off.

SeaMark brackets seem to do the job nicely.

Fixed length brackets mounted to the transom are time proven and hold up just fine as long as the transom has viable thickness and is composed of the right material to have strength. Proper mounting with adequate backing plates distribute the load evenly. I probably wouldn't mount an extension bracket to a plastic skinned foam boat. A fiberglass boat with a full solid transom is usually ok.

Personal preference is the determining factor here.

Chromaflage · 04-13-2006, 07:25 PM

I appreciate everyone's input. After reading all the suggestions here, I feel even more confused. From what I can decipher, there are three options here:

1. Attach a bracket directly to the swim step. The major concern with this is the weight and the ability for the swim step and associated mounts to bare the weight, torque, vibration and bounce of the kicker motor.

2. Cut the swim step and mount the bracket directly to the stearn. It was suggested that the bracket extend beyond the edge of the swim step. I'm still not sure why this is important. It seems to me that as long as there is room to tilt the motor that should be fine.

3. Mount an extension under the swim step that extends beyond the swim step and mount the bracket to that, outside the swim step. That seems like a lot of weight extended quite a ways beyond the fulcrum point.

At this point, I am really confused. I don't want to spend a ton of money to mount a kicker to this boat - since I just dumped a ton of money for the boat itself. There should be a simple, straight forward, affordable way to do this. Based on these options, it seems like the most logical approach is to cut the swim step down and mount the kicker to directly to the stearn - using some type of bracket that will allow me to raise and lower the motor.

Maybe I'll just install a couple of oar locks and buy a pair of 20' oars.

Maybe I'm just being dense...

Thanks all!

crF

The Overfishin Condition · 04-13-2006, 07:34 PM

I guess the fourth option was a combination of one and three. A bracket that mounts to the transom, but sits on top of the swim platform and is also bolted to it. I think that's the option I would go with if it were me! TOC.

Chromaflage · 04-13-2006, 07:38 PM

Quote:

I guess the fourth option was a combination of one and three. A bracket that mounts to the transom, but sits on top of the swim platform and is also bolted to it. I think that's the option I would go with if it were me! TOC.

So, since a bracket such as this is not likely a stock type of item, where would one go within the vicinity of East County to fabricate such a critter?

Nalu · 04-13-2006, 07:41 PM

Quote:

I guess the fourth option was a combination of one and three. A bracket that mounts to the transom, but sits on top of the swim platform and is also bolted to it. I think that's the option I would go with if it were me! TOC.

Me too!

The bracket portion where the motor mounts does not need to extend past the swim deck, only be flush with the edge of it so the kicker can be in the normal operating position. A marine fabricator such as Norvelle could easily fabricate one that matched your transom angle and swim deck angle.

Nalu · 04-13-2006, 07:44 PM

Chromaflage- A day trip to the coast to Norvelle would do the trick. If you really didn't want to make the trip to the coast, a mock-up in plywood that they could copy for the angles would also suffice.

Chromaflage · 04-13-2006, 07:45 PM

Norvelle is in Nehalem, right? Any clue about how much something like that might cost?

Nalu · 04-13-2006, 07:53 PM

Correctamundo!

I have not dealt with them directly, but have heard nothing but good things about them. I also have a local guy that can powder coat.

Really, it's all about what you want. If you want to cut that swim deck down, you'll need to cut it and refinish the cut end properly, and that would be just fine. You'll still have to have a bracket bolted to your transom, and most likely some offset to it so you can tilt the motor up.

So, have someone make a bracket that costs about the same, or a little more, than a premade bracket, or cut your swimstep, refinish it so it looks right, and still buy a bracket to mount to your transom.

Chromaflage · 04-13-2006, 07:54 PM

Good point. Thanks!

My Limit · 04-14-2006, 01:14 AM

Chromoflage,

What material is your swim step made from? It should not require much work to look nice if you make a clean cut.

Just like what you were saying about the balance point I don't see any reason to put undue stress on the transom by extending the motor any further than is necessary to tilt the motor up.

Also, stay away from OMC Heavy Duty Kicker brackets. They cost a fortune and are junk. I've been there and done that.

I love my fixed aluminum bracket. It's powdercoated the same color as my gelcoat. You could call Boondocks and see if they can get one that fits your boat.

I also love my power trim T8.

I will never go back to an adjustable bracket.

Once you get the right size bracket based on the minimal required extension for clearance you can figure out how much of the swim step you need to cut away. Who knows you might not have to cut that much away.

Have you contacted your boat's builder to see if they have any suggestions?

ML

fish Addict80 · 04-14-2006, 04:04 AM

My limit, could we get a picture of your bracket setup?

Luke

Chromaflage · 04-14-2006, 09:13 AM

Quote:

My limit, could we get a picture of your bracket setup?

Luke

Would really like to see it.

Thanks!

Billfisher · 04-14-2006, 12:49 PM

Ahhh... Deja VU!

Here's what I did.

Doug's boat before...

Doug's boat afterward.

I miss my swimstep, but that kicker was darn useful last year! I'll either make a new swimdeck this year, or schlep the old one into a 2/3 width. If anyone wants to buy the swimdeck, by the way, i still have it.

-D

Chromaflage · 04-14-2006, 01:41 PM

Thanks for the post! What are the dimensions on your old swim deck?

bajadan2000 · 04-14-2006, 03:12 PM

Not sure this is going to help you, however, here is my winter project. Had a kicker mount made over the swimdeck and included several boxes for livewell and such. Also added two pumps with the water take up outside of the boat. Plan to do the first shake down cruise tomorrow, hope she still floats.

Notice the heavy supports under the swim deck transferring the weight to the hull.

Here is the water pick up just before the hose was attached.

Chromaflage · 04-14-2006, 03:27 PM

Wow! Very impressive! I'd like to see that in person some time. Who did that for ya? I don't think I even want to know the $$$$ for that, but it sure looks sweet!

bajadan2000 · 04-14-2006, 03:38 PM

Mike at Samson Sports in Camas Wa. was the lead fabricator. He worked very close with me on the design and made many very helpful suggestions. Wish this was my only high $$$ project this year. I am so ready to put her in the water and take a ride.

Glad to show it to you sometime. I live in Vacouver and keep the boat in my back yard.

Onokai · 04-14-2006, 04:05 PM

Dan
Where those boxes powder coated or painted white?? and is that a T-8 yami kicker?? Mark

bajadan2000 · 04-14-2006, 04:24 PM

Mark,
Powder coated, Yes yami high thrust T-8.
Dan

Metal Manipulator · 04-14-2006, 06:07 PM

Do you have Trim tabs? after adding weight to my boat I am having to add trim tabs. one to help get up on plane and the other for a better ride in rough seas. I put the biggest ones on I could and will probably wish they were bigger.

bajadan2000 · 04-14-2006, 06:43 PM

Wet Fly

You can see the trim tabs in a few of the pictures. They are the large ones.

Last year I had a 180qt fish box on the swim deck. Had if full a couple of times, not sure how much weight it held, guessing 400#, however, it did take longer to get up on plane and the boat did handle differently. Since my main motor is a V-8, amid ship with a straight inboard drive, (no in/out drive), there is very little other weight near the stern.

Tomorrow is the shake down cruise, if there is a problem with the weight, I will let you know.

Two Fister · 04-14-2006, 08:42 PM

Dan,
That turned out great! My friend is in Indiana right now picking up his new to him Outrage. After dropping it off at Mid Columbia for a Yamaha repower he's heading straight to Sampson for a T-Top and some other custom fabrication. Hope it turns out half as nice as your set up!

CrF,
I'd go take a look at Dan's setup. Talk to Sampson and to the guys at the Pooderbuilt at the link I sent to you. Swim steps are a really nice feature to have!
TF

Chromaflage · 04-14-2006, 08:53 PM

Thanks TF - looks like they do beautiful work. I will gie them a call. Still weighing all options and this point. I'm anxious to figure out which direction to go and run with it. Can't wait to get the Cobia over the bar for her first time.

CrF

slowbuilder2005 · 04-15-2006, 10:30 AM

Chromaflage,

K.I.S.S. right? If it were me, I'd remove the current swim step and put a normal kicker bracket in the right spot ...port or starboard, whichever makes sense on your boat (port is typical.) Shoot some Sikaflex 291 into the holes where the swim step was fastened on.

THEN, I'd go fishing.

THEN, I'd worry about that swim step at my LEISURE.

I don't know what kind of things you like to do, but if it were me I'd buy a stack of teak and custom make a new one for myself ...coat it with Deks Olje and put it on the boat. I think cutting and fixing the glass one that you have will be difficult to do and still look nice.

I think this would be the cheapest and most effective route, one that you'll be happy with all 'round.

Just my 2-bits...

Brian

My Limit · 04-17-2006, 07:17 PM

Chrom,

I'll take a photo of my bracket and swim step set up soon. I've been busy. Please PM me if I forget to get back to you.

If you do remove the swim step completely there is company in Washington called Spectra-color that sells factory matching gel-coat patch kits for most boats. After sealing the holes with 5200 or West System epoxy you can put a new matching gelcoat over the holes. It looks great.

Good Luck!

ML

Onokai · 04-18-2006, 10:28 PM

Spectra-color-I have used this stuff and it is super. They nail the color match exactly to your hull by year and brand. Mark