Setting Anchor

[GoneFission]

I've been having trouble getting my achor set. It's a 30# rocking chair-style anchor, but has more fluke-like tynes. To me, it looks like a cross between the Danforth fluke-style anchors for sandy bottoms and a rocking chair-style anchor for rocky/gravel bottoms. My boat is a 17' Alumaweld Stryker, and I'm anchoring in 15-20' of strong current with about 100-120' of anchor rope and about 1.5' of anchor chain. My guess is that more chain and perhaps more rope would help, but it seems like my set-up should do, but it seems like it just isn't fully laying down and setting properly (some extra chain may be the ticket). Am I missing something else, or am I doing something wrong? I'm working near the Ringold section of the Columbia just just below what would be considered the Reach. The current is definately pretty strong, but I would expect that the water is anchorable if done properly. Any suggestions?

GoneFission

[freedrift]

More chain and more rope out in the strong current would probably help 1.5' of chain is pretty short. I would try more like 6' or more and see if that makes a difference. I would think that a 30lb anchor for your 17' boat is plenty of anchor.

[SOL]

you need 6'-8' of 5/8'' chain

[namu mac]

or even more chain

[Gundog]

Do you realize how big 5/8 chain is. Are you sure you mean 5/8 and not 5/16?
GD

[Tacklebuster]

does your anchor have a rubber coating to it? When I bought my Seahawk I went out and spent some money on a real nice looking black rubber coated 30 pound rocker anchor. Though the anchor looked really nice sitting in the cradle, it was a lazy son of a gun when it was time to go to work. It was tough to get a good stick. I fianlly went back to the non coated 30 pound galvanized job and that one sticks every time

[husker]

rule of thumb 1/2 the boat length in chain. and sometimes more rope is the answer.

[GoneFission]

No rubber on mine, but thanks for the tip. If the extra chain doesn't work I may be in the market for a new anchor, and now I'll know to avoid the purdy'uns.

Thanks all for the tips,

GoneFission

[jimh]

10 ft of 5/16 or 3/8 chain should dramatically help.

[Regular Joe]

Anchoring is the depth x ten = length of rope.
Therefore 20ft depth is 200 ft of rope.

[The Overfishin Condition]

To what point is the depth x ten true? I'm thinking 10 ft of line to make every one foot of depth may be a little excessive. I anchored in 50 ft of water this weekend and probably really only needed 2 to 1 scope to hold, maybe less. I'd say somewhere between 3 to 1 and 5 to 1 ought to do the trick. I've anchored in water from 10 ft to 70 ft without any trouble using far less than 200 feet of my 300 foot rope? My .02 TOC.

The original question though: Just like all have said, chain is probably the answer, it greatly affect what angle your achor lies at relative to the bottom, which is the key to a good hold.

[Fish Mode]

yeah, 300 feet of rope would be the norm amount of rope needed for a normal boater who usually leisurely anchors in water other than under bonneville. However, the coast guard recomments the 7-10 X the depth you're going to be in - but i think that would be overkill and plain too bulky.

More chain to position the anchor would be my start.

Second, bring someone who has some experience along for a ride and practice around some slow moving water before advancing to the roughies. Good Luck

David

[suckerfish]

I may be crossing a boundry here, but to me technique has alot to do with anchoring. I see to many people drop the hook and slide back at a good click and have problems sticking. I like to drop the hook, slide back slowly until I feel the anchore hit bottom. I then pay out the rope leaving a small belly as I slide back. Once I have the desired amount of rope out I will allow the anchore to fall over and do it's thing. This allows the anchore to lay at the proper angle to dig in. If the rope is kept tight the entire time you are paying out rope the anchore will have a difficult time laying over, and will more than likely just be tilted at a 45 degrees at shank and skipping along the bottom. Now, I use a 28# rocker that I built with about 2' of chain extending past the shank. This anchore would hold my 22' NR Commander anywhere. The only time I have ever had trouble anchoring was with my wife sliding back to quick. Slowly backing down and letting the anchore lay over when there is plenty of rope out will insure a better chance and sticking and holding.


suckerfish

[IDWITHELD]

Is your chain connected to the top of the anchor (loop) with break-away twine ? Or, are you trying to set anchor with the chain connected directly down at the tines?

Without the break-away you will have trouble setting due to incorrect angle. Add 6 foot 5/16 chain. This helps force the setting angle so the anchor digs in immediatly. This should reduce / eliminate your anchor drag.

[fortywinks]

What suckerfish said!

This is especially true in shallower fast water with lots of round river rock bottom. Pay out the line until you are close to where you want to be then let the anchor set itself and take a bite, otherwise it will just bounce along the rocks. Sharpend tines will also work better than rounded tines in the rocks. In deeper water with sandy, muddy bottom, not an issue.

[Mr. Carp]

Do you realize how big 5/8 chain is. Are you sure you mean 5/8 and not 5/16?
GD

I started crying on that one...

[Gundog]

If you were using 5/8 chain I am not sure you would need the anchor 6' of that stuff would probably weigh 50#.

[geterdone]

We have the same boat with about 6' of chain and 250' of rope. we have 30lb home made anchor that works great. I think that more chain and rope would help.

[geterdone]

it looks like this one
[image][/image]