Seam molding replacement

[CATCH AND EAT]

My 91 23' Trophy has developed some water leaks in the cabin that appear to be coming in around the seam molding. I've never had these moldings off and cannot seem to get the leak stopped. Has anyone here had that problem before?

I hate to start taking it apart only to find that the molding is no longer available. Last summer I put some clear silacone around the edge and that helped for a little while but the leaks came back. Got to eliminate the leaks before the season starts. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Bernie

[kamloops]

Bernie


Never seen a boat that didn't leak.

[Bait O' Eggs]

Your boat sounds just like you

Old
Leaking
parts no longer available
clear silicone is a temporary fix at best

[Miss B Haven]

Silicone isn't the right stuff, it doesn't stay adhered to fiberglass very long. Use a good Polyurethane sealer (Sikaflex 1a works well). It's harder to work with (as far as sticking to everything- especially human skin!) but will outlast the Silicones by 5-10X. It also doesn't have to be completely dry (which is important in a stiuation like your where it's a seam). Moisture is what makes it set up.

You could always do the blue tarp thing Bernie!

[CATCH AND EAT]

You could always do the blue tarp thing Bernie!

Or buy and Edwing.

From what I can tell the darn thing is leaking right at that belt molding that goes all the way around the boat. I have taken a peak up inside the hull area and that looks like a pain in the rear job to pull that molding off and seal every fastener. While I realize that most all boats leak to a degree (thanks Tom ) I want to minimize the amount of water that gets into the bilge. Paying for a new starter each year is a real pain in the behind. The less salt water in the bilge the better.

I have reorganized the bilge and auto switch to better drain this area but would like to see less water and staining in the cuddy area since the hull walls are carpeted. I also don't want to make a big mess with appoxies that will give the boat the "blue Tarp" effect. I will however look into your suggestion Mel. Thanks

Roy.

[Onokai]

Rod (corrirod) sells these boats I think. pm him for the fix. Another good sealant is 5200# Mark

[Metal Manipulator]

If your haveing problems with rust on your Bendix, take it apart and clean, then lube all parts with a water proof grease. I like Slick 50 grease it doesn't come off, but it is hard to find. I got a brand new starter last spring and I had to dissasemble it to clean and protect when I brought it home in October.

[Nordic Sun]

I know a guy that owns a body shop.

I think he buys BONDO by the rail car load. I am sure he has fixed a corvette or two maybe you could give him a call.


PS you need to call your ISP! I can't send you an email!!!!

[Spindrifter]

MBH is right on here. I second the advise of the Sikaflex 1A.
I work in the construction industry building commercial buildings.
We use the heck out of this stuff for waterproofing and it sticks to most anything and holds up well.
I'm in the process of doing the same project myself on my Trophy....same deal leaking belt seam molding near the bow. Paul

[CATCH AND EAT]

Well Bob your e-mail on the DSC came through fine when you changed the language of the topic. The filters try to keep the bad stuff off my puter but some stuff still gets through. Sorry. Try again with a different header. BTW I don't want to fix with bondo Bob. What are you thinking????? No cracks, it just needs sealant and of course I really don't repair or paint boats if I can help it. Bad enough working on boat owners vehicles. "NO Good deed goes unpunished".

Spindrifter. Are you removing the belt molding completely and then reattaching it or are you sealing it from the outside? I'm just trying to decide how big of a project to make this. thanks.

[TROPHY1]

Could it be leaking arount the windshield and running down inside the cabin wall behind the carpet where you can't see. My 2352Trophy came from Arizona where the heat seemed to have shrunk the winshield seal by about an 1 1/2" and it is amazing how much water can come in through a few oversize screw holes in the windshield frame.
Just a thought.

[Bait O' Eggs]

I know you sleep in the cuddy sometimes Bernie, are you sure its not just drool your seeing in the bilge? :tongue: :tongue:

[Spindrifter]

C&E,
I just cleaned out all the old sealant really well. Then layed a new bead in the seam, top and bottom. That should do the trick. I also had a small gelcoat crack in my anchor locker in the bow and I think was adding to the problem, as my locker door does leak a bit also. You might wanna check that also. Hope that helps, good luck. Paul

[backlash442]

Seam molding? Are you refering to the rubrail that seperates the bottom from top halves of the boat? I had a problem with that on my boat but wasn't a Trophy. It took the builder a long time (almost 2 years) to figure out where the leak was coming from. It was under the rubrail where the idiots somehow forgot to put several screws in along the seam! Even though the rubrail was on, water came into the cuddy and filled "dry" storage compartments not to mention soaking the cushions. It was so bad that water actually found it's way into the bilge by following the electrical wiring. Lots of caked salt. Then builder had the nerve to tell me "no big deal". Years later I kept noticing water in the cuddy and so took off the rubrail again. Idiots forgot to do the other side! No way they could have missed the holes if they'd taken the entire rubrail off. So you might want to try there.

This is why I posted about my Seahawk and the openings I found underneath the bow gunnels where they meet the windshield bulkhead. These are far larger than screw holes. Surprisingly enough not one person responded on this forum.

[CATCH AND EAT]

Trophy 1. Yes I do have a small leak that developed around the windshield this year but it is very small on the helm side. I know I can take care of that no problem.

Spindrifter, I did clean off all the silacone 2 years ago and replaced it but after reading the responces of silacone not sticking to the fiberglass it is making me rethink that decision. :tongue: I guess my question is are they screwed in, bolted in or what?

Backlash442 yes we are referring to the rub strip around the boat.

No getting any water through the anchor locker but you can see the trail on the inside of the hull where the water has traveled and stained the felt. Another spot that I suspect may be contributing to this leaking is the stainless rail work where it fastens to the hull. Could be corrosion beneath this area and leaking there tool. I just want to get this taken care of before it causes any real issues.

[kamloops]

Sounds like you need another bilge pump.

You will go nuts trying to figure it 100% secure.

I like Mels idea the best.

That faithfull day out on the tuna grounds when I broke waves for you guys, that was brutal for me. Had to reseal all my portholes. The spray completely soaked my forward
quarters. I had many water intrusion areas throughout every screw and bolt hole, hatch, glass window.
I just try and keep the spray to a minimum if possible and
vola', no more water.

[CATCH AND EAT]

Tom it will drive me more crazy if I don't at least try. I don't like leaks.

[Orca]

C & E,

They are screwed in. If you pull back the rubber or rope that is in the exstrusion, then you will find the screws holding the exstrusion on. It is also holding the top of the boat to the bottom of the boat. You could unscrew it a section at a time, chaulk the top to bottom seam underneath, then screw it back down. Or you could leave it, strip the silicone, and then chaulk top and bottom of the rub rail.

[kamloops]

One component polyurethane sealants when expososed to sunlight tend to yellow, esp. the lighter shades (white).

They can't take the UV like silicones, but they are a much better adhesive, that's the trade-off.

They do also tend to pick up dirt when they age (urethane)

So clean up any slop ASAP.